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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mschukarmschukar Member Posts: 351
    I have nearly 1/4 of the miles you have and the only thing I've noticed that remotely resembles a problem is a slightly sticky gas pedal when it's hot. I'll have the dealer look at it when I take it in for scheduled maintenance. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend a BMW. Then again, I'm making a recommendation based on one data point just as you are.

    It sounds like you should check the lemon law in your state since you clearly have a car that is below standard.

    I find it hard to believe that no one in your family has ever had a problem with their cars. According to JD Powers, even the highest ranking Toyota had 85 problems per 100 cars in their '01 initial quality survey. The highest ranking Jeep had 138 problems. I don't know the distribution of the problems, but I would think the odds of never having a problem with 5+ vehicles is quite low.

    -murray
  • pearl2000pearl2000 Member Posts: 12
    TT - I haven't noticed any real problem with wind noise - there is noise but I usually have the stereo on so I don't notice. As for the spring noise, I do notice something every morning about 30 seconds after I start the car and after hte door locks click in - I always thought it had something to do with the locking systems for the doors. Again, I haven't been concerned about it, but let me know if anything transpires
  • topspin627topspin627 Member Posts: 67
    I have a 330i auto and also noticed a "not so smooth" gas pedal. I only noticed this when I was given a 325 loaner. Technician said that different system is used in each car. My gas pedal seems to ratchet down rather than flow. Is this what is being fixed?
    I also notice a creaking sound from the rear which can occur event when the car is stationary-maybe from the wind? Anyone else experience this.
    Thunking sound from rear- they told me they thought it was from the rear seats not being secured properly (they fold down) but it continues. I have an auto. Is this the "flange"?
    This board is really great. I love my car but it pays to be informed especially when you take it in for service and some dealers may tell you that you have to put up with less than perfection when maybe there is a solution. (Lazy way out)
  • whyguywhyguy Member Posts: 2
    Hello all,
    My 99 323i 4-door started exhibiting some weird behavior:

    1) When the car is on, the RIGHT turn signals flash even though the I have the turn signal indicator in the middle. The RIGHT turn signal won't turn off until I turn on my LEFT turn signal. If I turn on the LEFT turn signal, the LEFT flashes correctly and the RIGHT goes off until the turn signal stalk goes back to the middle.

    2) When the car is off, the RIGHT turn signal comes on and stays on despite all I do to it. Sometimes it goes away by itself, sometimes the headlights do it, sometimes the LEFT turn signal.

    Any hints would be appreciated. I had a local European repair shop check it out, but they found nothing. Thanks!
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I had a similar problem on my 3er. Have them check the computer controller module (in the dash I believe). In my case, the clock on the radio also stopped working (it was frozen at 10:07) and I couldn't adjust the brightness of the dash lights. It was replaced under warranty for me..

    I could probably find my invoice and provide a better description.

    -Paul
  • rshaw11rshaw11 Member Posts: 52
    The "notchyness" you feel in the gas pedal can definitaly be corrected on a 325i. The 325i uses a drive-by-wire system so, if the 330i is the same, then BMW has a replacement pedal assembly that removes all "notchyness". Ask your dealer to replace the unit. I had mine done and it's now as smooth as butter.
  • jdbragg62jdbragg62 Member Posts: 2
    My 325 i at 9000 miles on it experienced problems. I would have Tracking light, brake, and EML warning lights go on intermittently. I would take to BMW and they would reset computer...tell me until they could actually see a problem they couldn't change any parts...Anyway one Friday on the drive home at 100+...gotta love the autobahns...lights came on and stayed on...drove into BMW and didn't turn car off...with all fault lights on dash he hooked up computer and diagnosed the problem. I have the paper...part is named in German...been to lazy to go to bablefish for translation....it is a sensor with a big butterfly valve for air intake during acceleration that was the problem. If you are experiencing the same problem...email me at jdowning@t-online.de or jdbragg62@hotmail.com....by the way I bought my car factory direct a pentagon car sales...got a loaded BMW for a killer price....2002 loaded with navigator and all the works except leather and winter package for 33K flat
  • gtd325gtd325 Member Posts: 1
    I have been curious about the long oil change intervals recommended by BMW since I bought my '02 325i in February, and appreciate all of the prior postings and information on this board. I ran my first recommended change (17k miles of highway/commuter driving) through a lab (Blackstone), and the results may be of interest to fellow drivers. The lab shows high concentrations of AL, iron, copper, and molybdenum, which the analyst said is typical of new engines after 4-5k miles. Quoting the report: "the oil itself was in poor physical condition, with viscosity reading in th 50W range [Castrol Syntec 5w30] and isolubles (due to heat and use) above the limits at 0.7%...The oil was used up." Other readers may be interested in sharing their results for comparison - it's easy and inexpensive to run the test, check it out at Blackstone Labs on the web. Other comments and insights are welcome.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    Why would any manufacturer want their cars to last much beyond 120,000 miles. That's enough to keep the new buyer happy and the 2nd buyer somewhat happy!
    I've used Mobil 1 [changed every 4,000 miles or 90 days] since 1990 in my 90 Q45 at 239,000 miles the the compression exceeds new minimum specs and the leakdown is less than 4%.
    Probably overkill and maybe I could have stretched it to 6,000 miles [I do oil analysis every 20,000 miles or so]...........but whats an extra $1000 over 12 years compared to a $6,000 used engine exchange or a $10,000 new one.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    The point being is the oil change software is not set for ultimate longevity just enough to exceed the warranty plus a little margin for safety [no one can sue if it lasts 100k].
    Why it's so scarey to buy an off lease car the user may have just done the minimum and the 36,000 miles may be the equivalent of 70-100k engine/tranny miles.

    It really is an Ethics question ...what do you owe the next owner if anything? Can you get more money back if you maintain it well...NO? Why

    Always check and analyse the computer service data on a used car you buy!
    I sure wouldn't want to buy a car where someone waited 17k to change the oil! Unless I owned a shop and could get the car cheap!
  • rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    BMW offers free oil change either for 15,000 miles (within the year) or annually if the mileage doesn't exceed that. So at least for oil change, you don't have to adhere to what the computer says for free maintenance.
  • mschukarmschukar Member Posts: 351
    I wonder what the lab results would be for the second oil change when the engine isn't new? Also, would a lab test show the oil is used up after 5k or 10k miles? How much beyond the "limits" were the values and can the damage done to the engine be quantified?

    I don't think BMW is motivated to have their engines fail after 120k. That's not a reputation that any auto maker wants. Are high mileage '99 E46's starting to require engine overhauls? That will be the data that has real value.

    Certainly, changing the oil more frequently should help the engine last longer, but what is the useful life when following the recommended interval? I'm sure BMW has run accelerated tests to determine the life of their engines. Changing the oil more frequently may or may not change that number by much.

    I do agree that seeing more oil analysis data would be interesting.

    -murray
  • hpowdershpowders Member Posts: 4,330
    I have my 2002 325I for 3 months now. With daylight savings time approaching, I attempted to change the clock but the knob which is supposed to turn left or right to subtract or add time respectively won't turn at all. Any ideas or should I just take it back to the dealer?
    Thanks.
    Howard
  • blk330iblk330i Member Posts: 5
    hpowers, just changed my clock and it did require
    a good amount of force.
    Mine is the one on the right of the instrument cluster. The same one that changes 24/12hr mode when depressed.
  • jfedor1jfedor1 Member Posts: 39
    I had blackstone analyze my oil after the first oil change at a little under 15k. The computer still had 1000 left on it but I made my dealer change it because I had a long trip to go on. When I sent it to blackstone, they said it was not overdue, but it was definitely due for an oil change. The were actually impressed by how well it held up with the amount of millage. I decided to do my next change at at a half way point at around 7k.

    Josh
  • bimmer3ibimmer3i Member Posts: 48
    I changed the clock time yesterday and blk330i is right. It does require a good amount of force to adjust the time. It's only adjusting the minutes but quite fast when you hold the button.
  • fowvayfowvay Member Posts: 29
    The oil analysis from my 1999 323i has shown that my particular engine is very hard on oils. My results always come back with low wear metals but the oil is beaten up pretty badly. Some have sheared out of grade and others have been on the verge of dropping out of grade in as little as 4000 miles. All engines will react differently but I question the 15,000 mile drain interval that my vehicle's computer is recommending. I am sticking to 5000 mile intervals with full synthetic ACEA A3 oils.
  • leogets1leogets1 Member Posts: 1
    I need to top off my AT fluid. What can I use? Does it have to be the dealer fluid which, they said they only sell in bulk? What over the counter fluid can be used? I am having a hard time find the recommended Shell or BMW ATF. THX
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Use only the correct BMW approved fluid in your AT. Using anything else could very well cause the early demise of your AT. FWIW, the fluid MUST be checked/topped up at a specific temperature with the engine running and headlights on. You might want your dealer or a good independent shop to do the job.
  • rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    Personally I do feel the 15000 miles oil change intervals are not feasible for those of us who keep the car for over 5 years. I think BMW provides free maintenance over for three, now four years for '03, thinking most of people lease their cars around three years anyway and this policy will be a great marketing tool.
    I can't imagine any oil ,synthetic or otherwise, can take 15000 miles without breakdown.
    Something to think about when one considers a used BMW.
  • mschukarmschukar Member Posts: 351
    Personally I do feel the 15000 miles oil change intervals are not feasible for those of us who keep the car for over 5 years

    What are you basing your “feel” on? Have you done accelerated testing and analysis to determine the true life of the oil? Have you read any SAE papers on the subject? I haven’t, but I’m certain BMW’s engineers have.

    Don’t you think that BMW wants their cars to last more than 5 years? No auto company wants a reputation of their cars breaking down before 100k miles. The savings of reduced maintenance would be lost in sales and market share.

    I’m not saying you’re wrong, but I’d like a little more evidence than your “feel”. That’s why the actual oil analysis is interesting.

    -murray
  • rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    Wow! I don't intend to get into an argument with you over frequency of oil change. I consider oil change the cheapest maintenance there is. I have owned several BMWs over the years and none of them ever had engine problems. The most recent one (02 model) suggests the first oil change at 15000. The service manager who I have known over 15 years told me that I should have the oil changed at 1000 as BMW suggested in the past. Now BMW offers annual oil change, even if you don't drive over 15000 miles. If I spent $40,000 for a BMW, I don't mind spending small sum for oil changes to ensure it will be in top shape in ten years with over 100,000 miles. Each to his own, I guess.
  • mschukarmschukar Member Posts: 351
    Sorry, I guess I came on a little strong :-)

    My 325i has 9000 miles on it and no oil change. My “gut feel” is to change the oil and not worry about it, but I can’t believe BMW would take the risk of reducing the longevity of their engines. I would like to see some evidence either way.

    -murray
  • rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    While we share our enthusiasm for BMW cars and may believe its integrity in ensuring high quality product for consumers, we should also know it IS a business and bottomline is important for its survival in a very competitive market place. Some of the posts here based on oil analysis discussed some not quite positive results. Another point worth mentioning is that the synthetic oil used by BMW is Castro product which many knowledgeable people consider as inferior to the "real synthetic" such as the Mobil 1. Castro synthetic basically is a very highly refined (and very high quality) dino oil. So BMW has not put in "the best" oil available IMO for the very long service intervals they recommend. I, for one, will not keep the oil in the crankcase for more than 7500 miles. Once the free maintenance is over, I'll switch to Mobil 1. I have no doubt BMW engines can go well beyond 150,000 miles easily with proper maintenance based on my own experience.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    FWIW, the 5W-30 oil BMW sells is NOT Castrol Syntec. BMW's proprietary oil is produced by Castrol but it is formulated to meet BMW's own specifications.
  • fowvayfowvay Member Posts: 29
    Leogets, if your car has the GM built 5L40 5-speed automatic then the transmission fluid that is specified is Texaco ETL 7045E fluid. Do a internet search for this fluid and you may be able to find a suitable and comparable fluid to top-off your system. Keep in mind that if you have a dip-stick free transmission then it takes a specific method to check and add fluid.

    The BMW part number for the fluid is: 83 22 0 026 922.
  • iplingfiplingf Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 328i engine stall while it is idle when the engine is cold. The engine will idle very rough and sometime it will just stall. It only happen in cold weather and after the engine warm up, the engine will run fine. Did anyone has the same problem?
  • chashoangchashoang Member Posts: 19
    I recently took hold of a 2002 330ci with 7,000 cpo miles on it. I've found a couple of problems which i hope you guys can help me with.

    1) the car tends to oversteer or "hunts" to the left when the embakement (sp? )is to the left (like when you are in the fast lane). when i take my hands of the wheel the car shoots to the left when driving fast, or the wheel turns dramatically (spins) left when i'm driving in traffic (approx 5 miles an hour). I tried the slow lane to compare (maybe the car is just very responsive) since around here it banks to the right and the car just stays straight or slightly moves to the right. I also tested the right lane in traffic and the steering wheel doesn't spin as much to the right. Now driving the car in the middle lane ( which is straight) the car gradually moves to the left.

    I have the 17 inch double spoked all season tires on it ( no SP wheels) and the service foreman said it's because of the bigger tires and different set up of the sports suspension that's more "in tune" with the road ( comparing it to my previous 01 325i with only 16 inch wheels, no SP, and more assisted steering) thus causing some lean. this is normal he said.

    He test drove the car and after not taking his BS excuses during the drive, he agreed it leaned to the left and agreed to switch the front tires to see if it helped? it didn't so he decided to align the car. Well i picked up the car and it still does the same thing! the only difference to me is that he loosen the steering a little to make it easier to compensate.

    I haven't talked to him yet, but is this normal for a coupe( the suspension) since my last car was a sedan? Does anyone now what it might be if it's not the alignment or tires? It wouldn't be that big of a deal except i drive in the fast lane alot and my arm fatigues from trying to compensate on long 4 hr drives.

    2) there is a rattle in my doors which the service dept. said were blown subwoof speakers so they replaced them. the rattle is still there and it seems like it actually the whole under dash alongside the doors where you put your maps and stuff in (connected with the front subwoofer). i think when the car hits bumps or is on shakey ground the vibration causes that plastic and vinyl to rattle. i haven't brought it in yet but has anyone had this problem? or did both subs blow again? (and no i don't play my radio loud)

    I know this was really long winded but please help if you can. thanks.
  • ddtigger1ddtigger1 Member Posts: 9
    Ok you guys.. I am thinking of buying my first BMW. A '96 328i and I am reading all this talk about 15000 miles before an oil change, and using only BMW oil. Now... what is so special about there oil? Why can't I go to jiffy lube (heaven forbid) but by basic question is, why go to the BMW dealer and pay more for the BMW oil and BMW transmission oil. Please help me understand this thinking. Sure, If there is a great advantage to this I would like to know.
  • ddtigger1ddtigger1 Member Posts: 9
    Thank you. One more question to you if I may? what series do you drive, and what, if any trouble have you had with your BMW? Do you also always take it to the dealership, or do you use a other good shop?
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Well, I started in 1983 by restoring a 1973 Bavaria 3.0...:) I currently run a 1995 318ti Club Sport as well as a 1997 528iA. The 3er has been the most reliable car I've ever owned; at 76K miles it's required no unscheduled maintenance-though I did have a fuel sender replaced and a couple of TSBs performed while the car was in for other service. I've replaced the front pads and the serpentine belts just as a precaution(it sees track use every so often). The 5er has had a waterpump, thermostat/and t-stat housing replaced at @60K miles. A couple of local BMW dealers have pretty good service departments, but I primarily use an independent shop that specializes in BMWs and Ferraris. Here's why. Dealers usually charge $700-$1000 for the Inspection II(major) service. My independent performed the Inspection II, replaced the fuel filter(not required on the E39 5er, but a good idea regardless), front pads, a tie rod, and performed an alignment-all for $440. And that was using Mobil 1 and BMW OEM parts. The car you are considering is pretty bulletproof IF it has been maintained properly. Have it inspected by a good BMW tech and ask to see the service history- was the coolant changed every three years using BMW coolant? Was the DOT4 brake fluid change every two years? If the PO cannot prove he took care of the car I'd take a pass. Back in 1995 I looked at a one owner 1988 M3. The (moron)owner kept bragging how he changed the oil every 3K miles. The brake fluid reservoir looked like it was filled with coffee, so I asked him when the brake fluid was last changed. "Changed?" he asked with a deer in the headlights look... Needless to say, I walked.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Yes, http://www.bmwlemon.com/ is a terrific site-if you are a psychology student looking for case studies on psychosis, paranoia, and multiple personalities. It's composed almost entirely of unsubstantiated stories- several of which are posted anonymously. Here are a few examples of the "horror stories":

     

    "1976 2002"- this genius is upset that an eight year old '02 is not as reliable as a new Acura. It had a squeaky heater fan and a bad u-joint. And he's dead wrong about M10 rocker shafts. They CAN be replaced. Notice he never cites the vehicle mileage.


    "740i LEMON" Owner has been reduced to tears. Poor baby. She never describes the vehicle age, mileage, or the "problems".


    http://www.bmwlemon.com/gasketb.txt - you have to read this moron's message yourself, I crack up when I try to type it.


    "Gasket Problem"-The profile gasket failed and BMW UK fixed it under warranty. But it took them a week and they gave him a 316 sedan for a loaner. How sad.


    "What another 318 Gasket problem?"-profile gasket died at 97000 miles. Mean old Munich wouldn't pay for the repair. How unfair!


    "1994 525i"- Idiot buys a CPO and after purchase "discovers" problems that would have been obvious on even a brief test drive. BMW gives him another 525i but that's not good enough. The imbecile pledges to "fight on".


    "BMW=DEATH" This guy blames BMW for the fact that his girfriend was tailgating the car she hit at "40 mph". And if the seat belt failed, why didnt she suffer any facial trauma from hitting the wheel, dash, or windshield? Can you say, "I can't drive, but it's STILL BMW's fault."?


    The site is a true moronic convergence

  • edwardgreenedwardgreen Member Posts: 1
    Brought my 1999 328i to dealer today. Found out that my "pulling to the left" steering problem was due to wear of the left control arm. They wanted to replace both front parts for $750 which of course I didn't pay. My car has 78,000 miles still covered in the preowned extended warranty. After calling BMW USA and the warranty administrator and the service manager they ended up charging me $240.00 saying that parts will be covered by BMW but not the labor. Anybody else have this steering problem? I've read of one message here. (The service tech told me that it is dangerous to drive the car and it should be replaced promptly.) I've had several problems with this car since we bought it including brakes, callipers, computers, cold stalls, etc. and frankly I'm convinced not to buy another BMW!
  • chashoangchashoang Member Posts: 19
    An update on my steering problem as noted in file #547.

    the dealer agreed that my car hunts to the left but found that all their 330ci do the same. i even let the service foreman take my car home for the night so he could experience what i do everyday. he agreed the next morning and realligned the car, and put it up to BMW specs, but could not get the car to go straight, and in his opinion this hunt to the left normal.

    it was ironic that there were no 330ci to compare it to on the lot that day. i am currently taking it to another bmw dealership where i know one of the techs who moved there from my current dealership. he said he will test drive it and let me know. i will give you an update when i find out.

    Can you tell me what excuses or solutions your dealership said would solve the problem? i haven't gone to bmwna yet, but will if the other dealer detects a problem.
  • idletaskidletask Member Posts: 171
    I've taken the 16/9 nav system as an option and the onboard computer allows for two mileage displays. I got the car new. I've let #2 alone since the beginning as to calculate the mileage over the life of the vehicle. #1 I reset each time I fill the tank.

    Problem: after a moment (2 months/7000 miles), #2 displayed 0 when I set the unit to km/l. I usually leave the unit to l/100km. But in this unit, since Jan 13th, #2 also showed 0. It seems to have happened when the display wanted to go from 7.2 to 7.1 (haven't checked for km/l). "Funny" thing, when I chose mpg at the unit, #2 still displayed correctly!

    I noticed my dealer about this problem and the tech guy reprogrammed the onboard computer (and I've lost my dear data - whaa, no mileage on the life of the vehicle now *weep* *weep*).

    Has anyone else noticed this problem?
  • nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    I suggest that you rotate the tires. A radial tire can pull in on direction if there is a defect in the belt alignment in the tire. I have run into this problem twice with other cars, and the problem was solved by rotation. You might have to rotate them twice to get the offending tire in the "correct" position. A pull in either direction is not normal even for cheap, poorly-designed cars.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If the car aligns to specs it really has to be a tire problem seems to me. How's inflation pressure, and have you tried to vary it?
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    Nerd has a good point. Sometimes radial tires can be damaged but no damage is visible to the naked eye.

    One way to detect damage is to swap the tires one at a time with a full size spare and see which swap might make a difference.
  • chashoangchashoang Member Posts: 19
    hey guys, thanx for the advice. to my knowledge the foreman said he switch only the front two tires to see if it helped, but it didn't. i will try swapping all the tires and update you on the situation.

    As a side note, do you guys know how to stop the speaker rattle on my passenger side door? it only happens 80% of the time with or without the speaker on. they say it's coming from the speakers and replaced it twice but to no avail. I personally think it's coming from the door panel which connects to the speaker casing (one unit, the area that you put stuff in on the doors). Or could the speakers be blowing after each immed. replacement from a short? The speakers do work however.

    thanx again guys.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    If the rattle is coming from the speaker area and the radio isn't on, the tech people should do some digging and figure out the cause of the rattle.

    I have a "rattle" or "buzz" that is noticeable when the radio is on, mostly on AM. I had the car in twice. The first time the front speakers were replaced, the second time they said they could find nothing wrong. I believe the diversity antenna contributes to poor AM radio reception and am resigned to the fact this car has lousy AM radio reception. One very minor aggravating fault in a sea of other great stuff about the car.

    My suggestion to test the speakers is, to take the CD you received with the car, go back to the dealer and play it in a couple of models on the showroom floor. Get a sense of how it plays and then go back to your car to hear how it sounds. A shorted or bad speaker should be immediately apparent.

    In contrast to the AM reception, I find the FM radio and CD quality to be one of the best in a stock setup. I have the H/K upgrade BTW.
  • chashoangchashoang Member Posts: 19
    thanx for the input. i will try some of your suggestions. This might sound stupid, but is an H/K btw an upgrade to the H/K i have in my 330ci, or is that just an abbreviation? Also, the rear speakers don't say H/K like in the sedans, or is that just the way the decor of the speakers are for the coupes?

    thanks again. i will let you know what they say or did.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    On the 2002 models I believe the H/K upgrade was a $650 option. I had thought that this "upgrade " was to be standard in the coming model year. I'm not sure what year your car is.

    I don't know about the coupe, but in the sedan the H/K upgrade is identified by the words Harmon-Kardon on the front-pillar speakers. I also checked my car and the words Harmon-Kardon were imprinted on the two rear-deck speakers on the chrome trim, with the imprint facing the rear window.

    Cars that don't have the H/K upgrade are missing the word Harmon-Kardon from the front pillar speakers.

    Hope I answered your question, let us know how it turns out.
  • texan5texan5 Member Posts: 23
    I've got a slow power steering fluid leak on my 1999 e46. The reservuar seems to be leaking from under the cap. Replacng the cap itself did not solve the problem so I'll replace the reservuar next. I'm curious if others have done the same.

    Also I'm contemplating the replacement of the pressurized PS hose while doing the reservuar. The connector where the hose attaches to the inlet on the radiator does not look familiar. How do these work? Do I need special tools for this?

    Thank you all in advance
    texan5
  • chashoangchashoang Member Posts: 19
    thanx for the input on the h/k. i have a 02 330ci which does have the H/K imblem on the front speakers but not on the back speakers? Is this normal on the coupes? I actually was wondering if there was an upgrade to the H/K that i didn't know about.

    AS to the steering problem that veers to the left, i finally got a diff. dealer to look at the car and the tech (an old service tech at my dealership who i befriended before he left) said the steering wheel was not adjusted to specs. This should have been done with the alignment. He said he could look down at the BMW badge cross on the steering wheel as a reference and see that it was off. He also said BMW would not warranty work at one place to another. It would cost me $170.00 for another alignment to get this done.

    Bear in mind a already had two alignments at the other dealership and the front two tires swapped with no resolution. I asked him about the radial tire thing and he said it was highly unlikely....hmmmm.....

    anyways, i went back to my dealership and told the manager of service what happened. He said he wanted to keep my business and would talk to the foreman who test drove my car and get back to me.

    What do you guys think?,,, should i give my dealership one more chance to fix it for free or fork over the money and pray it gets done right at a different dealer and hope what he says is true? at this point time is more impt. than money and i just want my sweet coupe to be running right,,,,i can live with the freakin rattles but not the steering problem...

    thanks again all,

    L8's
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    Get the old dealer for fix the thing. There is no reason that car should be pulling. I'm not sure why a misaligned steering wheel would cause pulling however. Something is off, whatever it is get them to diagnose and fix it.

    Why isn't this warranted under the BMW full service maintenance?
  • campbelllcampbelll Member Posts: 3
    Hello:

    I bought two 2003 325xi's in Mid-December. Both cars have the premium package and rain sensing windshield wipers. The night I picked up my car, it was pouring down rain, and the wipers worked perfectly. They went from a slow intermittent when stopped, to a steady medium speed when the rain wasn't too bad, and went to the fastest speed when rain really picked up. I was amazed it worked so well.

    However, about a week later, there was another day of very heavy rain, but this time while driving (55 mph), the wipers would not go faster than the "medium" setting. I had to physically raise the lever to get the fastest wipe speed. It would not do it in the auto setting. I ensured the sensitivity knob was full forward (where I had left it from the last time), but it didn't work.

    I went home and got in my wife's car and took it for a drive. Sure enough, her's worked fine. Just like mine had the first time it rained. I got back in my car to make sure I had everything set correctly (it's not that complicated...), and it was. Still would only go up to the medium speed. The wipers would not go to the super fast speed unless I physically raised the lever out of automatic.

    I made an appointment at Passport BMW in Maryland (where I bought the cars) to have a tech look at it. They told me it was working fine. I asked them if they were actually able to test the different speeds of the auto setting, and they said, "no". They said their was no real way for them to test it unless it was raining (it wasn't).

    Anyway, I'm now driving a BMW with a feature that doesn't work right, and no way to fix it. Can anyone out there give me any advice to get them to take this a little more seriously?

    Thanks!
  • jddsjdds Member Posts: 1
    my '01 330ci weather stripping is split near the door latch both sides of the car, anybody with same problem? you may want to check, let me know. thanks
  • dohc97dohc97 Member Posts: 20
    I also have a 2001 330ci and had the same problem. The first time the dealer replaced the seal, it again was ripped after only a couple of weeks. I brought it back for another replacement and it has been fine since then.
  • chashoangchashoang Member Posts: 19
    My 02 330ci had enough weather stripping problem before i bought it that the door wouldn't close properly without a good slam. They replaced the drivers side strip and i tested it before i bought the car. no problems since, but the salesman did say a lot of the coupes have this problem, he wasn't sure why, but it is a "Known Problem." I hope this helps.

    KDshap: Alignments are not part of the scheduled maintenance because it's part of "use of the car" My Dealer have not charged me anything because they sold me the car, and because they acknowledged the pull, they have tried to fix it but relented saying that it was normal for coupes to stray because of the tuning of the car. I can accept maybe a little of it but the rest is [non-permissible content removed]. I took it to a second dealer only to have a second opinion and they confirmed my problem. Since i didn't buy the car from them, they have to charge me for it.

    I'm going to try to contact BMWNA to help fray the cost...in the meantime my dealership's foreman is on vacation and the manager will speak to him on monday the 27th to get the low down. From my point KD, i have no faith in the foreman who has tried to fix the thing twice, took the car home with him, acknowledged it, yet all he can give me is "that's the way it is." All thought it would be for free, I'm way to frustrated, and don't have a lot of free time to be going to the shop, but maybe third times the charm.....if not i guess i have no choice but to pay the bucks at the other dealership. Let me know if any of this sounds wrong to you....

    once again thanx for your help and input,,,i really do hate bitching about my beemer so i will add one positive note before i signed off..

    this stupid kid in a suped up prelude tried to race me out of the gates at a toll booth....i didn't even know he was trying to race until i looked over to merge and there he was gunning his car,,,egging me on, needless to say he was in my rears and all i smelled and heard from his car was a burnt clutch and him in the slow lane.

    L8's all.
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