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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • beyleafbeyleaf Member Posts: 2
    Thank you all for the input on the window regulator. I am glad I'm not the only with this problem. I just got the my rear window regulator replaced again today and it only been exactly a year that I just replaced it. A total of 3 in 1 year. Div2, your right too and lucky that you haven't had any problems
  • danfoxxdanfoxx Member Posts: 5
    This has to be a problem others have had or are having.
  • danfoxxdanfoxx Member Posts: 5
    My cars Front Right strut makes a knocking noise whenever i am on bumby roads or definitely over speed dumbs. Anyone hear of it loosening up or something like that?
  • khogan10khogan10 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 330ci...with 17K miles. The other day I was driving and my back right tire blew out. After taking the tire off I found that the tread was fine on the tire except for the inside edge wear the tire had worn totally down. I spoke with a tire representative that told me "No Way" should this have happen that there must be a problem with the suspension of the vehicle. I called BMW and a service advisor told me that "That is just how the suspension of BMW's are." The tire rep said that was a "BS" answer and that they need to fix it. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • ksomanksoman Member Posts: 683
    Well, anything can in theory go wrong with a mechanical aparatus... however, your first stop should be wheel alignment and balancing in such situations... even if its not the cause, its a good starting point for uneven tire wear..

    ksso
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    I have an '01 330Ci. All four of my tires show greater wear on the inside than on the outside of the tread. I too asked my service manager about it and he said it was normal.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I don't know what year your 3er is, but you may want to look at the TSB's. Some 3 series had problems with the front suspensions (if my foggy memory serves me correctly)

    Check out the site:
    http://www.recalldata.org/2002/

    It mentions this recall information, just look for BMW 330 or 325.

    -Paul
  • fuzzaleefuzzalee Member Posts: 2
    Thank you div2 and texan5 for your suggestion to take car to Autozone and get new ind. dealer. They came up with PO455 and P1250 ( EGR valve? ). Could some explain what these mean and what to do to get them repaired. I'm a handy little girl with some things but not automobile lingo or working under the hood of a car. Tks. fuzzalee
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Happy to help. P0455 is a generic code; the fault indicated is:
    "Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (gross leak/no flow)"
    The OBD-II runs a test to verify the fuel system is sealed. This code means that OBD-II is detecting a leak. The usual culprit is a loose or defective gas cap. It could also be a loose or disconnected hose.
    As for P1250, the nearest thing I've found is:
    "Functional Check Purge Valve Incorrect"
    Again, this is related to the evaporative emissions system. You really need to find a good independent BMW tech who knows how to troubleshoot modern BMW systems. If you can't find one, let me know; I may be able to help.
  • fjm1fjm1 Member Posts: 137
    I think some of the E46's have gremlins. Mine sure did. It went through LOTS of window regulators and still rattled like a 10 year old Ford when I traded it in.
    http://home.earthlink.net/~millerfj/
    has most of the service receipts except for last 6 months or so when it went in about 6 times for dash lights failing and, you guessed it, window rattles.

    I sometimes miss the driving dynamics of the BMW but couldn't afford to pay a ton after the warranty ran out.
  • docteddocted Member Posts: 3
    Unless I have my A/C on my windows fog up.
    This is in a 2002 320i.
    I live in Canada and the recent outside temperatures have been in the 40-60 F. range.
    Any suggestions as to a problem?
    Thanks.
    Ted.
  • eoseos Member Posts: 27
    Is your recirc on/off control working?
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    2002 325Ci, 36k miles. at 3500 or above RPMs, the engine makes a growling/clattering noise. it is a loud engine in general, but just recently it is making a not-so-good mechanical noise, like something is loose or rattling, in the engine.

    any ideas? taking to the dealer this week, just want to be armed with possibilites.

    i THINK it might be louder when the engine is cold.

    thanks.
  • unboringuyunboringuy Member Posts: 90
    I have a 2001 BMW 330xi with approximately 19,000 miles. I have had the oil changed once, at approximately 14,000 miles. Prior to changing the oil, the yellow oil indicator lamp would come on when I turned off the engine. My service advisor indicated that it probably was just a little low, and they added some oil.

    This now is happening again, after only about 4,000 miles. The advisor once again has said to just bring it in. He said that they tend to use oil somewhat early on in their life.

    I've never had this problem with any other car. Can anyone shed some light on this?

    Thanks.
  • asleepyasleepy Member Posts: 70
    I have a 2003 325i with 5K miles and I have the same problem. I had it checked out and the dealer could not find anything wrong. I kept track of when the yellow engine oil light came on and it was only in the mornings, after the first start and only after I have driven about 5 miles. So if I drove more than 5 miles, this did not happen. And when I checked the oil after the light came on one morning, indeed the dipstick showed it was low -- but in the afternoon on the same day, the oil level was within the normal level. I will be talking to the dealer Monday but after having read other posts, this is usual -- having to add oil after about 4K-5K miles.
  • jameswbcoxjameswbcox Member Posts: 17
    I have had more probs than I care to admit with my first Bimmer, but I must say that oil consumption is not one-- I have never added a drop between my 15k oil changes , and that is grreat.
    Jim
  • asleepyasleepy Member Posts: 70
    I agree with you about having problems with the car -- I've had the car for 5 mos. and it has been back to the dealer 3 times already for various issues. But I've read here from other folks who've owned the car for over a year and had no problems at all so I guess it is the luck of the draw.
  • jq3jq3 Member Posts: 52
    Last Saturday my wife and I purchased an off-lease steel blue 328i with premium package and 48.3K miles. Well, I've had my first problem, that didn't take long, my back rear window has stopped working. The noise was so loud my wife thought it had fallen out on the ground! Fortunately, it's still under warranty.

    My wife and I are Toyota customers, we traded our '00 Land Cruiser which was bullet proof. I hate nagging car trouble, no matter how nice the car is, I hope my wife and I haven't made a mistake!

    JQ3
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Sounds like yiou should have bought a Lexota.
  • rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    I second what div had said. From a "bullet proof" Toyota Land Cruiser to a BMW 328 is quite a leap, particularly for someone wanting to avoid "nagging" car troubles over everything else. Do you enjoy driving a responsive car at all?
    BTW neither of our 98 and 02 BMWs suffered nagging problems in our ownership.
  • ksomanksoman Member Posts: 683
    that's not just a leap, its a big leap of faith... honestly as much as we love our bmw 3, just based on other people's experience, you have to write off your used 3 buy off to "pleasures"
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    You know, every car(well, probably not a Kia) has positive and negative attributes. You make your choice based on what's important to YOU. In my 20+ years of BMW ownership my cars have never left me stranded. That said, I'll freely admit that I've made more trips to the shop then I would have had I chosen a Toyomitsubonda, but the driving pleasure my BMWs have given me far outweighs any additional service trips and expense(though I will note that my Club Sport has required only two unscheduled service trips-a fuel sender and a seat belt switch-in eight years and over 85K miles of "spirited" street and track use). Others prefer a car with anvil-like reliability and don't care that the driving experience is as dull as dishwater. More power to them, but that doesn't invalidate the choices I've made.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    "Others prefer a car with anvil-like reliability and don't care that the driving experience is as dull as dishwater."

    I want anvil like reliability also. Unfortunately I haven't found it in Japanese or American brands I've owned through the years. Niggling problems have always been a part of every vehicle I've owned. Neither have a lot of my associates found anvil reliability in Japanese brands: read: Honda tranny. Heck, my mother even has issues with her Lexus.

    That said, the BMW is close to bullet proof as they come. It just keeps on going. Oh I'm sure I'll have problems with it that requires many trips to the dealer. But, then it will be on par with the Japanese vehicles I've owned in the past.
  • rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    I am with you on how one chooses cars based on one's priority which dictates the choices. Just like you, we have owned several BMWs over about 16 years and we were never stranded once (knock on wood) other than once we couldn't start the car due to the dead battery (after 10 years) on our driveway. That was our first BMW and now we won't push that far any more.
    What interesting is that there is such myth about the reliability of the Japanese cars. We had owned two Hondas, both were top of the line with leather (the first year they came out with leather) and the second one with ABS (again the first year Honda was equipped as such). The first one had problem with the sunroof after a couple of months and the other one had a starter problem at the end of the then 2 year warranty period. I never kept the Honda long enough to find out other issues, since I wouldn't want to venture to keep it as long as our first BMW which we disposed of after 16 years and it had no rust and engine ran as strong as ever (325e model). May be the cost of maintenance is higher for BMWs, but that's what you need to do for a high performance car over an appliance transportation devise. Just an observation about the G35 which came out may be less than 2 year ago, the "problem" posting on the Edmunds board has already exceeded 800 when the 3 series board with such long standing has fewer postings. The G35 brake and rotor seem to have the tendency to self-destruct. Yet, one of the virtues for the car is "reliability"!
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Well, I agree; no manufacturer is perfect. I just didn't want to start an argument with the acolytes of The Most High Church of Japanese Autos. I also think that a lot of Japanese car owners don't follow the factory maintenance schedule-they only change the oil, air filter and plugs(maybe). The car keeps running so therefore they claim the sled is "cheap to run". Based on the SI lights, my Bimmers need an oil service every 8K($35; DIY), an Inspection I every 16K($150; local independent or $35;DIY) and an Inspection II every 36K($350; local independent). I'll bet if the appliance owners followed the factory regimen the costs would be very similar.
  • ksomanksoman Member Posts: 683
    don't get me wrong, but many times, your messages sound acute... almost like a abused woman singing glory about her abusive husband. My reading abilities may be insufficient.... sorry I brought it up.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    kso - I am not a flowery writer, I tend to be terse and to the point. However, I pride myself on respectful replies even if not said in many words. :)
  • jq3jq3 Member Posts: 52
    It seems to me that from the some of your respones that you have given up on not having nagging problems with your BMW's, in return for driving pleasure which is sad, sad, sad. You should always demand more especially when you're "shelling-out" the big bucks.

    I will defintely agree that the Japanese brands are very boring when it comes to driving experience. To be "fair and balanced"(borrowing Fox New's slogan), I'd like to see the Japanese cars offer the driving thrills that the BMW's offer. I guess they're trying with the IS 300, but man does that car look immature!!! I couldn't wait for its debut...what a let down!

    Well, anyway, I am pleased with my 328 and I truly hope that the nagging problems are few because if not..it's outta here!! I have never fallen in love with mechanical objects and I don't intend to start. Just too many other cars to choose from. Life's to short to say, "It has a lotta nagging problems, but boy does she give me driving pleasure!"---Please! Save it! The only car that MAY warrant that statement would be Ferrari(IMHO) and my pockets aren't no where near that deep.

    As you can see I have no alligence to any brand and you shouldn't either. It breeds complacency within the auto industry... remember what happen to the American auto industry in the late 70's and 80's??

    JQ3
  • skobolaskobola Member Posts: 207
    I agree with the statement that we have to find ourselves the cars that will make us happy. For someone that happiness may come by cars being sporty, for some it may be by them being reliable. But that does not mean that the other cars should be bashed. I have also experienced some of Japanese cars that were in service more often than my Bimmers. However, when in comes to driving and how I feel in them, none of those other cars can beat Bimmers. I have leased my last 4 Bimmers, as 3 years is just enough for me to get excited to get yet another one, and in that time, I do not have any problems with (high cost of) maintenance and repairs.
  • bmv43bmv43 Member Posts: 2
    In my 325I (2002), I get an occasional creaky noise, which I think is coming from the area of the instrument panel on the dash, when the car goes over bumps in the road (i. e., all the time in Washington, D.C.!), but it never happens in the first few minutes of driving, and doesn't happen all the time. Anyone else have this problem? Is there a solution?
  • ksomanksoman Member Posts: 683
    i personally think we dont yet have the technology that will completely eliminate creaks. I dont think cars should have them, but when different materials like real wood and plastic are bonded or chemically welded or snapped together, environmental extremes are going to cause issues that may result in squeaks and creaks etc. These include extremely temperature extremes as well as physical extremes like bumps. I've noticed that both in my car as well as wife's car, when we are in the phoenix hot 110 degree sun for a long time and then the AC cools down the interior to about 68 degrees, for a few minutes the wood around groans, creaks, squeals and makes other noises to tell us, its made out of a living thing, insensitively killed by humans for their fancy...

    ksso
  • whyguywhyguy Member Posts: 2
    My OEM BMW CD changer on my 99 323i just stopped working.

    At first, I was getting a "CD Error" and now "No Magazine" when I press the "CD" button. Also, the CD changer makes no noises and the magazine won't come out.

    There are no "CD Changer" fuses in the glove box and the 3A 32V fuse on the back of the changer seems OK.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks!
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Check the CD Changer owners manual; it should describe you how to manually eject the magazine(on my pre I-Bus unit you eject it by sliding a credit card under the magazine). If all the CDs are in the magazine, count your lucky stars. Turn the radio on and reinsert the magazine-after first making sure that none of the CDs are binding due to warpage or CD-R labels. The changer should now operate properly. This procedure worked for me.
  • lasvegas325lasvegas325 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone have any idea how long the battery on a 325i (March 2003 production model with 1,200 miles on it), should last when the car is parked before it needs re-charging?

    I ask because we went on holiday for two weeks, and upon our return, the battery was dead and required a jump start. The mechanic that gave us the jump-start said that "it's normal for 325's battery to run down after not driving it for more than two weeks". He also said that the drain is a result of the alarm. Nuts I say! Our other car (a 1997 Dodge) has been left for up to six weeks with the alarm engaged and, without fail, has always started.

    Might this be something other than the alarm? Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • mikeczymikeczy Member Posts: 3
    I've had my 2002 sit in the garage for up to two weeks a few times without ever having a battery problem.
  • rustyrrustyr Member Posts: 10
    New 2003 BMW 325i owner. My tires are set at 35 psi front, 40 psi rear. The tires are 16 inch--no sport package. The door jam cites two sets of tire pressure, one for a regular load (several people) and one for maximum load. The first recommends 30 psi front, 35 psi rear. The maximum recommends 35 psi front, 40 psi rear. The service department wouldn't give me a concrete answer but told me to follow the pressures on the door jam. I called tire stores and get different answers (one said run 32 front, 37 rear; another said run 35 all around). I know some of this is ride and handling preference but I thought the difference pressures front and rear related to handling and the car is designed for these psi differences. So--any BMW tire pressure advice? The car is incredible I must say. I unloaded a 2002 Volvo S60 AWD. The cars don't compare. BMW is heads above the Volvo. Thanks all.
  • mohegan1mohegan1 Member Posts: 1
    My new 2004 330 convertible will be here in a few weeks and, while I did not get the Adaptive Xenon headlights package, I am thinkning of replacing the standard halogens with the plasma type xenon bulbs. I do not want to have any problems with the additonal wattage or heat they generate with the BMW equipment.
    Anyone have any experience or comments to offer, or recommendations. I don't want them for looks, rather for enhanced lighting effect. I want a high quality, white legal/safe set for the low/high and fog. ANy thoughts or ideas?
  • kbuchholzkbuchholz Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 323i and in the past 2 years I have had to replace the window regulators 5 times. One in each window and twice in the drivers window. This weekend both front driver and passenger window regulators went out, again! Is anyone else having this problem? Any suggestions?
  • kennynmdkennynmd Member Posts: 424
    I along with other members in the lighting forum have discussed this matter about xenon lightbulbs. I have them on my truck and like many others they seem brighter but they actually donnot help in the rain as they seem to reflect the rain too much. I suggest you keep the stock bulbs and maybe upgrade the foglights. Another option you have is get an aftermarket xenon HID kit which probably costs a bout 7-8 hundred installed. If you decied to get this kit you will have to find a BMW tech. to reprogram the on board computer because it will not recognize you having the kit because it is drawing less power than the stock bulbs.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    kbuchholz - do a search on window regulators. I seem to remember a number of posts dealing with window regulators in 323s.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I wonder how long it actually took for the battery to go dead? A real "drain" on a battery usually can kill it in 24 hours at most.

    Most cars seem to be able to last longer than two weeks as the little LED displays or even alarm power isn't very much of a drain.

    But all this can be measured by a qualified person. Once you know how much current is being sipped out of your battery by the car while it is "quiet", then you'll know if something irregular is going on; otherwise everyone is just guessing.

    If you got a reading in milliamps and let us know what that is, perhaps someone here could tell you if the current drain is unusual.
  • bmw323isbmw323is Member Posts: 410
    Kbuchholz - I also have a 2000 323i. I've replaced regulators 4 times (twice on one window). It certainly is a problem, especially when they fail repeatedly. My car goes off warranty in 5 months and I suspect I will have to start paying for the repair of these out of my pocket. I plan to speak with the dealer about it and see what they will be able to do for me if these continue to fail.
  • albchialbchi Member Posts: 4
    Hi Asleepy,

    I am in the silicon valley, and might be visiting
    Stevens Creek to look at a 325i. Can you please
    contact me at albchi@yahoo.com? Thanks!

    Al
  • wenxin96wenxin96 Member Posts: 6
    Dear all,

    I have had my 2003 BMW 325i for a month and i just finished a long trip. The thing bothers is that the reading of the speed is always about 2-3 miles off the GPS speed reading.

    For instance, if I cruise at 70MPH according to the car, the GPS reads about 67MPH, very constant. If I cruise at 80MPH, the GPS would read about 77MPH. This GPS reads the same as my
    old Camry. (Which is going to National Kidney Foundation soon.)

    I heard that (from very old posts on internet) BMW tunes the speedometer up from actual on
    purpose. Is this true ? Do you encounter the same situation ? Should I bring the car to the dealer ?
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Every BMW I've owned has had a speedometer that read "fast"-usually by @3-4 MPH. OTOH, the OBC speed computation is usually spot on. It's simply not a big deal. Just learn to live with it. Let's see... a Camry with an accurate speedometer or a 3er with a speedo that reads a touch fast-yeah, that's a real tough choice...;)
  • kennynmdkennynmd Member Posts: 424
    I have a new 325ci and when I go over 80 mph I am getting a whistling/wind noise from my passenger window? Does anyone else have this problem? Thinking about going to the dealer but I don't think theycan test a car over 80 can they?
  • sherrihollysherriholly Member Posts: 2
    I took delivery of my 325 over Memorial Day weekend. Within days, I noticed that the 1st time you start it for the day, it would idle rough, and almost stall if you didn't rev the engine a little.

    I Ignored it the first few times, but then I realized it was happening every day. Dealership said they had 5 or 6 other customers with new 325s that were experiencing the same "Issue", however BMW has not yet come up with the fix, and just be patient. They said it had something to do with the programming in some computer module.

    Well, it's now been 4 months, and they still say they don't yet have a real fix for the problem.

    Now the car's Service Engine Soon light is on almost constantly -- this may or may not be related - it occasionally will go out on it's own, but will come back on within 10-20 miles. I also now notice that when I accelerate into traffic, or pass someone on the interstate, the car feels like it's "bucking" -- and this is an auto-tran, not a manual.

    I'm worried that continuing to drive the car is doing damag to the transmission/engine.

    BMW has finally agreed to let me bring in the vehicle, so they can look at some of the other "Issues."

    I'm curious to see if anyone has dealt with a dealer that has successfully fixed any of these "Issues."
  • magbarnmagbarn Member Posts: 35
    Call your dealer up for this as my car also would die if I didn't use it for 3-4 days. It involves a reprogram of your light control computer.
  • dq2dq2 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a '03 325i BMW. Two days after delivery a grinding noise started. The noise occurs while in slow speeds when braking, and commencing acceleration as well as when in reverse. I took the car back to the dealer and they claimed to have fixed the problem. However, when I picked up the car the noise was still there. The dealer has told me that he has never experienced this type of problem before. Either I've made a mistake purchasing BMW or the dealer doesn't know what he is doing. I want to believe it's the dealer. Has anyone had this type of problem? If so, what was it?
  • asleepyasleepy Member Posts: 70
    Magbarn,
    Do you have a recall number? I looked on various recall databases online and this was not listed. Is it a recall or a TSB?
    Thanks.
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