Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

1192022242582

Comments

  • cav_93cav_93 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,


    I have a 2000 GLE which began to make some high-pitched hissing noise everytime I have the heater and fan on. The dealer said that it was coming from the blower horn which would be a 4-5 hour job just to even get to it since they would have to take the entire dash out. Has anyone else experienced this?? I'm thinking about having it fixed but I'm concerned that after they take the dash and put it back in, I might hear some uninvited rattle and noise. Currently, I'm just playing some old Christmas music abnormally loud to solve the problem but sometimes I just want some silent night!!

  • dklaneckydklanecky Member Posts: 559
    I have a 00SE that has had the blower fan motor replaced twice by the dealer (under warranty). I heard a high pitched noise (only on fan speed #1)that was most obvoius when I would shut off the HVAC system.

    You could actually hear it stop (the noise)like the fan blade was actually hitting something each time it turned. (That's how I demonstrated it to the service writer.)

    The last repair bill (dated 12/21/2001) says:

    "A CS states that the blower is making noise, Cause: Internal failure TB14AA RPL FAN & MOTOR 810 WSP 0.50 $32.50 1 27220-2Y900 MOTOR & FAN $165.27 $138.82"

    The amounts extended total to $171.32, but it was covered under warranty.

    If I'm interpeting the bill correctly, it looks to me that the labor is 1/2 hour (0.50) at $32.50 ($65 per hour) and the part is either $165.27 (retail?) or $138.82 (cost?). (I think the part number is the other (1 27220-2Y900 MOTOR & FAN).

    At any rate, I don't see 4-5 hours for the job.

    It just sounds like the dealer is trying to rip you off. Is there another one you can take the car to for an opinion?

    Feel free to take my information to the dealer and challenge their diagnosis.

    The first repair bill said almost the exact same thing on 2/26/2001.
  • cav_93cav_93 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for your helpful reply. I'll take your suggestion and try another dealer!
  • nissangirlnissangirl Member Posts: 186
    Well, I carried my '03 SE in a couple of days ago, due to my sunroof leaking when going thru a car wash, (doesn't leak in rain).

    I am awaiting to hear back from my Service Mgr. today...he is to talk with Nissan Engineering to find out whether to replace the glass or the weather stripping (molding, whatever it's called) or the entire unit. It has been pin-pointed to the back portion that the leak is occurring at.

    Will let you know the outcome.
  • mcontrerasmcontreras Member Posts: 10
    Back in the day, when windshield washers stopped spraying, it was soemtimes necessary to 'prime' them to get them working again.

    To do this, carefully disconnect the small hose at the washer pump outlet and blow a mouthful of water through it. Reconnect the hose and try the windshield washer.

    If you're lucky, the hose had simply dried out from not being used for awhile and this will get it working again.

    Again, this was true years ago - not really sure if it's still the case but it's simple enough to try. Good luck ...
  • ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    My 2000 SE does the exact same thing from the exact same spot. It leaks from toward the back, more along the passenger side of the roof. Looks like the weather stripping to me. Please post your results. I'm probably screwed though because mine is a 2000 and it's now out of 3yr/36K warranty. I have 43K on it. My new problem is that the dash, headlights, dome light, all flicker upon starting the car like there's an alternator problem or something. Car starts and runs fine and it's intermittent and goes away after driving for a bit and it doesn't do it every time, but it's doing it more often. I'm hoping it's just the battery or something, but it seems like alternator. If it is alternator it's disappointing because I have only 42K and the btb warranty is up.
  • beanctrbeanctr Member Posts: 99
    Nissangirl,

    I would be interested in finding out what the problem and solution the dealer has for your sunroof leaking.

    I own a 02 SE and I have noticed that the back center of my sunroof does not fit flush with the roof. In fact if you push down lightly in this area of the sunroof, you can see part of the headliner. While I am not experiencing any leaking from my sunroof, I am concerned that it could be a problem sometime down the road (i.e after the warranty is up). I have noticed other 02/03 Maximas with sunroofs not completely fitting flush with the roof. To me, the sunroof wasn't well designed. I have looked on other makes of vehicles and the sunroofs on these vehicles fit completely flush with the roof.
  • nissangirlnissangirl Member Posts: 186
    Hmmm, I'll have to start checking out others. Yes, I am very interested in how Nissan plans on fixing this. It's not that bad, BUT it's a brand new car, and I occassionally go thru a car wash. However, my glass fits completely flush, to my eye, anyway, maybe that's the problem, maybe it shouldn't.........maybe it's too flush, you know, just a little bit. Don't know.

    I haven't heard back from my Nissan dealership yet, but will keep you all informed.
  • hammer19hammer19 Member Posts: 31
    The HID's CAN be retro-fitted on older Max's. Look at some of the customized cars on "Maxima.org" for example. I've seen at least four or five older cars with the new, or possibly custom-ordered, HID's. Maybe the authorities should check out some of these custom rides. Some of the guys posing with their cars look a little shady to me (showing my age???) Anyway, I haven't heard of these types of thefts up in Canada yet, but we don't get access to too many Maxima's up here. I guess the US market gets most of them and we always have to order and wait. (wah! wah!) That was the case with my '03 SE. It took several weeks to wait for it once it hit the west coast from Japan. I'd like to know if anyone out there feels that the factory HID's are aimed too low? There seems to be quite a difference between the low beams and the high beams, way more than one would expect. Maybe I'm just a bit fussy still, or the eyes are finally going.....don't know. See ya....oh,... and Happy New Year from your friends in the Great White North! (go Leafs go)
  • jsanejsane Member Posts: 1
    Re/msg#1015, I have had similar experience with 95 Maxima starting at 15K miles. Now have 155K miles with no problems, but still occasional tapping for 1 - 2 seconds on startup. Will try different filter, but which one? Thanks, Jim
  • boat28boat28 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Maxima. For the second time this year, an ignition coil has failed. Has anyone been experiencing this problem? I am under the impression the coils should easily last the life of the car. I spoke with the mechanic at the dealer and he stated he routinely has to replace these parts. However, Nissan is not admitting to the problem. My car is out of warranty with 63,000 miles on it, so I am on the hook now for the repairs. The more people who admit they experienced this problem, the better the chance Nissan may change their position on the ignition coil matter.
  • dklaneckydklanecky Member Posts: 559
    I have 2000 Maxima SE. Have 115,000 miles and no problems yet with either alternator or ignition coils.

    I have been thinking that it might be time for a new battery though. I picked the car up in November 1999 so it's going to be going through it's 4th winter.

    Anybody else started to replace batteries yet on the 2000 Maxima's?
  • eblumeblum Member Posts: 52
    Your dealer is full of crap. There is a TSB out there for the coils. I had one replaced on my 2000 SE under warranty. I still have some engine knock that I think is due to another bad coil, but I can't get them to replace the other coils until they die. Real good service.....

    -Eric
  • aristotlearistotle Member Posts: 123
    Hi eblum,
    Are there similar TSB's for coils for the 1999 Maxima? Where can I see all the TSB's for the 99 Maxima?
  • eblumeblum Member Posts: 52
    Check out this article by Edmunds. It has the link to where to find the TSB's


    http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/maintenance/articles/44745/article.html

  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    The newer coil has a transistor and diode inside the assembly unlike some previous versions that were just an almost bullet proof coil with external assembly housing the control transistors.

    Rough handling [dropping] during a plug change seems to make the problem worse???????????
  • ny10019ny10019 Member Posts: 5
    I am in the market for a pre-owned 95-99 Maxima. On Consumer Reports I came across information that replacement of timing chain/belt is a whopping $ 1,300 which is more than any other car. Does anyone know how often such service is recommended. Does the Maxima have a timing chain or timing belt ?
  • dklaneckydklanecky Member Posts: 559
    95 forward Maxima's have timing chains not belts and there is no scheduled replacement.

    I have a 95 with 195,000 on it and have had no timing chain issues. One of the reasons I originally bought the Maxima was because I was coming out of a Camry and got tired of replacing the belt every 60k for $250.

    I remember the 95 Maxima brochure stated the timing chain was speced out and designed for a minimum life of 200,000 miles.

    I have occasionally thought about what it would cost to replace it as I near 200k. I wonder where Consumer reports got their quote of $1,300?
  • bottinelbottinel Member Posts: 1
    My SE has about 63,000 miles on it. It is now in the shop to replace all 6 ignition coils. 3 were diagnosed as bad, but they said all 6 should be replaced because the rest WILL fail. I talked to a few dealerships and they said this is a fairly common problem, but Nissan has not addressed it. There is a TSB for this. I will be writing a letter to Nissan detailing my disappointment in them not responding to a design problem nor backing up their product. This is my first and last Nissan.
  • ambriatidambriatid Member Posts: 7
    I have a 99 maxima gxe. The immobiliser system is a standard feature. I recently changed the battery and not it will not start. Can I reset the system? Does it have to be towed to the dealer? any suggestions?
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Member Posts: 313
    My dealer (even the sales guy belive it or not) was very helpful when we had a bum spare key that would not start the car. Or you can get the Nissan manual, its probably in there somewhere.. (G)

    DD
  • ambriatidambriatid Member Posts: 7
    Called the dealer, said you will need to have it towed in so we can re-program the system. minimum dollar amount $80.00 plus towing charges. The owners manual has a sequence of activities to try. This did not work. Seems to me if this could happen it should be outlined in the owners manual. Just wondered if it could be by-passed or if it could be re-set in another way (besides towing and paying the dealer). They were not as friendly as your dealer.
  • dklaneckydklanecky Member Posts: 559
    Ignition Coil - MIL ON/Spark Knock/DTC P1320 Set
    Classification:
    EC01-023

    NTB01-059

    Date: September 6, 2001

    2000-01 MAXIMA; MIL "ON" WITH DTC P1320 AND/OR SPARK KNOCK (DETONATION) DUE TO IGNITION COIL(S)

    APPLIED VEHICLE: 2000-01 Maxima (A33)

    APPLIED VINS:
    Vehicles built before:
    JN1CA31A31T112164 (w/side air bags)
    JN1CA31A31T316031 (w/side air bags)
    JN1CA31D911627134 (w/o side air bags)
    JN1CA31D91T830089 (w/o side air bags)

    APPLIED DATE:
    Vehicles built before: March 16, 2001

    APPLIED ENGINE # :
    Engines built before: VQ30-463753

    SERVICE INFORMATION

    If an applied vehicle exhibits one or both of the below symptoms: MIL "ON" with DIC P1320 stored in the ECM Intermittent spark knock (detonation)

    The cause may be one or more of the ignition coils. Refer to the Service Procedure below to resolve the incident, if it should occur.

    SERVICE PROCEDURE

    Determine if one or both of the symptoms listed above exists and perform the appropriate procedure listed below.

    Procedure for MIL "ON" with DTC P1320 Symptom

    1. Check Self Diagnosis Results (using CONSULT-II) to confirm DIC P1320 (Ignition Signal Primary) is stored in the ECM.

    NOTE :Single or multiple cylinder misfire codes P0300 - P0306) may be stored in the ECM with DIC P1320.

    2. Check the ECCS wiring harness for a broken or damaged wire.

    A. If the ECCS harness has a broken or damaged wire that is causing the symptom noted above, repair the harness and verify the incident is resolved.

    B. If the ECCS harness does not have a broken or damaged wire and is NOT causing the symptom listed above, proceed with step 3 below.


    3. Replace ignition coil with the one listed in the Parts Information table, and verify the incident is resolved.

    Procedure for Spark Knock (detonation) Symptom

    1. Use CONSULT-II to check Self Diagnosis Results for any stored DTCs in the ECM.

    A. If there is a DTC(s) stored in the ECM, refer to the applicable Service Manual to repair the vehicle.

    B. If no DIC(s) is found, proceed with step 2 below.

    2. Verify the type of gasoline used in the vehicle.

    A. If unleaded regular (non-premium) gasoline is used, advise the customer to use unleaded premium gasoline to eliminate the spark knock (detonation).

    B. If unleaded premium gasoline is used and no other source for the symptom is found, proceed with step 3 below.

    3. Replace ignition coil(s) with the one(s) listed in the Parts Information table, and verify the incident is resolved.
  • jgo0309jgo0309 Member Posts: 1
    Please help! My car is at the dealership again as I write this. I have a 99 Nissan Maxima. In Sept '02 I was driving back to LI form NJ when I noticed that the tachometer / speedometer and temperature gauge were at 0 even though the car was operating at speeds up until 80mph. The air bag light was also flashing. Then they would either turn back on again and work properly or I would be at a dead stop on the Belt Parkway and the speedometer would be stuck at 100mph. Further into the trip - thankfully close to home the engine shut off 3 times in a 2 mile drive losing all power steering and brakes. My husband came out to look at the car and the car started fine and everything (gauges) were working fine. They found an "internal failure dash circuit board" which they replaced and replaced the left side seat air bag harness and the battery.

    Today, 1/3/03 the battery light and brake light were on (together). Then the car started sputtering and every other warning light came on. However the car drove fine and never shut off. Any idea what is happening and why it wasn't fixed the last time with he parts we replaced? This service manager is a real #$%^& not only laughing the problem off and making inappropriate car jokes but when my husband mentioned the car was just in with problems in the control panel that we spend $500 for 3 months ago - the service manager said smugly while smiling "Well now you are going to have to spend alot more money". Nice example of a "SERVICE" manager. Of course my husband said you are really trying to get my blood boiling after some more nasty remarks when he replied "I don't care what you do".

    PLEASE HELP!!! (Quickly if possible) I'd hate to give him one more cent.
  • ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    If it's running ok now then go to another dealer and trade it in on a 03 Max with good financing and $1000 rebate. Best deal going on out there right now.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,433
    at least find a different dealer to give your service money also.

    It is possible that you have a weak battery. It can cause similar symptoms. And for a '99, it's probably about time for it to go anyway, so might as well have it checked first. Other problem areas could e the altenator, but the battery is more likely.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • ambriatidambriatid Member Posts: 7
    Be careful changing the battery now my alarm system has failed and I cannot start my 99.
  • dave2001autodave2001auto Member Posts: 20
    Is there any easy way to realign it? If the inside door panel is removed, how is it to be realigned -- set screws? Can't be done?
    Dave
  • djichicidjichici Member Posts: 1
    I have a Maxima 2000 SE with about 20,000 miles. I have had the car for two years and now 3 winters. Last night I had to drive through the worse snow storm of the year. I leave in Ontario, Canada. In the middle of the blizzard, with heavy snowing, visibility about 10 feet, and black ice and snow covered road, I suddenly had a TCS OFF light, SLIP light, and SERVICE ENGINE SOON light came on. The car was obviously sliding and also it lost power and was stalling. Even starting from a complete stop, the car was stalling and I could not go faster than 60 km/hr. Once I reached my town, I pooled on the side street, stoped the car and restarted.... same problem. The TCS OFF button did not work.

    Next day I took my car to the dealer. They checked it and told me that maybe some ice got into the air flow sensor that resulted in transmition not to work well and the front and back wheels not to be coupled.... and they reset my cars computer and stated that this is "NORMAL". I certeinly did not consider the car loosing power, loosing the traction control and getting in a major stalling problem in the middle of the storm as "NORMAL". I should state that in am after the car was in a covered garadge, it worked perfectly and the TCS OFF light was off (ie. Traction controll is now working).

    Overall, I really like my Maxima, but this event left me with major doubts as to the car's reliability in harsh wheather. A friend who owned a Maxima few years back had a simmilar problem.... he did not have any resolve from the dealer and ended up selling the car never to buy a Nissan again.

    Has anyone else come accross simmilar problems and is there a solution?

    Thanks.
    DJ.
  • dklaneckydklanecky Member Posts: 559
    I have a 00SE with 115,000 miles on it. On page 2-10 of the owner's manual(US Version), there is a description of the operation of the Check Engine Light's light.

    The situation you describe, sounds similar to the description of the operation of the TCS on page 2-11 of the manual.

    It also sounds as if your Max went into the "limp Home" mode which while I can't find a reference to in the owner's manual I seem to recall reading about somewhere. There is a description on page 5-11 describing as failsafe mode. It talks about excessive wheel spinning and subsequent hard braking? Page 5-20 has a reference to the effectiveness of the TCS system when the gear selector is in anything other than D, (basically it won't work).

    Essentially from what I recall the limp home or failsafe mode allows your car to be driven home (at a limited speed and with some functions limited) after a problem has occured that trips the Check Engine Light.

    I wouldn't worry too much about driving your car in snow storms in the future, I've driven mine in many, many more than I care to remember and it's always performed very well.

    Good Luck!
  • nissangirlnissangirl Member Posts: 186
    For those of you curious about the outcome of my leaky sunroof in car washes.......guess what? After 2 weeks now, I'm still waiting on a response myself. Will let you know when I hear, but I'm getting a bit disgruntled waiting.
  • aristotlearistotle Member Posts: 123
    I took my 1999 Maxima GXE ( 39600 miles ) to the dealer yesterday since the SES light came on. The fault code was P1320. The dealer said that all the 6 ignition coils have to be replaced. I have a Diamond plan ( top of the line ) extended warranty from Warranty Gold. They asked the dealer to perform some additional tests after which it was found that 3 of the 6 coils produced less current ( is that the correct terminology? ) than the other 3. WG said they were still within the permissible limits and refused the change of coils. My car shudders at traffic light stops but otherwise seems to be almost OK ( not full power though ).

    I finally authorized the dealer to change all the coils for $670 including taxes. The dealer agreed to waive all labor charges but charge me only for the parts IF I buy all 6 coils from him. If I had changed only the 3 coils, he said he would have to charge me nearly $600 including the diagnosis fee and other labor charges.

    I am really mad because:

    1. Nissan puts LOUSY ignition coils on an otherwise wonderful car. Even though so many customers have faced problems with the coils there has not been a recall yet, only a TSB.

    2. Extended warranty contract just purchased for $1330 from Warranty Gold is useless when it comes to coil issues.

    3. Why should I change all 6 coils when only 3 are performing less than optimally?
  • eblumeblum Member Posts: 52
    Just an FYI - I just got a price from Courtesy Nissan for coils on a 2000 Maxima. $54 each plus shipping. Thats $324 in parts. I am considering changing mine...have to find out how hard it is. I have to believe they just plug in. Any one know?
  • aristotlearistotle Member Posts: 123
    Hi eblum,
             Thanks for your posting regarding the ignition coil prices. Does the 2000 Maxima use the same type of coil as the 1999 Maxima? Are you getting original ( OEM ) Nissan parts? I saw a price of $54 in car-parts.com even for my 1999 Maxima but then those are used parts. My dealer's quote had the following prices:

    3 units of 22448-31U11 for $318.00
    3 units of 22448-31U16 for $305.25

    for a total of $623.25 before taxes.

    Am I getting ripped off by my dealer in Colorado Springs? Do you have the phone number for Courtesy Nissan? I want to check prices of the above parts from him.

    Thanks once again for all yor help! I really appreciate it.
  • dklaneckydklanecky Member Posts: 559
    http://www.courtesy-nissan.com/


    You can enter part numbers and get price quotes directly.

  • nissangirlnissangirl Member Posts: 186
    Well, my service advisor called me late yesterday, said he spoke with a Nissan technician at the factory and said the fix was to adjust the glass.

    So it has been done now, but I will take it thru a car wash later today to see if it truly is fixed. The service manager claims that it is.

    I'll let you know.
  • nissangirlnissangirl Member Posts: 186
    anymore. It's fixed! They adjusted the glass. I drove it thru a car wash.....no showers! no leaks!

    Thanks!
  • jcw915jcw915 Member Posts: 31
    Can you fax me a copy of ur work order? Nissan consumer affairs keeps on telling me it's normal for a sunroof to leak at carwashes and the dealer gives me bs statements saying that I shouldn't go through carwashes period. I keep on insisting that the glass is off by a few millimeters but noooooooo, the stupid dealer says that it's normal.
    send me an email: jcw915@aol.com

    thanks,
    Jerry
  • nissangirlnissangirl Member Posts: 186
    They didn't give me anything. When ever I have had warranty work done, they didn't give me any paper work. I'm sorry for that. How about their phone number and the Service Manager's name, would that help?
  • obiwankenobi1obiwankenobi1 Member Posts: 290
    All warranty work and recall items that I have had fixed, I have received a copy of what they did. Odd they didn't give you that.

    Boy am I happy to have a working CD player again in my Max!! When mine crapped out, I had to wait 3 weeks for a new unit to come in. Brand-spankin-new CD player now!! YAY ME!!!

    Obi
  • ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    The coils are easy to do yourself, especially the front 3. Log on to www.maxima.org and start searching on coils in the 5th Gen Forum, you'll find tons of info. There's a guy on there who goes by the name of DaveB and he can hook you up with brand new OEM coils for $240. He's a parts guy at a Nissan dealer. He's rock solid. That's all 6 for $240. If you have zero mechanical skills, call around and find a friend with some skills. Or find an independent shop that'll slap em in for .5-1hr labor.

    peace
  • g00chg00ch Member Posts: 10
    I just took in my 00 SE for a 'check engine soon' light, and they stated a return code of '3-way catalyst' which points to the catalytic convertor. I have almost 58K on it. Do catalytic convertors have an expected lifespan? They want over 900 for parts and labor to fix, which I politely declined for now. Any suggestions? They quoted around 700 for the part itself, which I found unbelievable! Should I look aftermarket, or is dealer replacement ideal? any suggestions?

    thanks
  • nissangirlnissangirl Member Posts: 186
    I've had 3 warranty jobs on different vehicles - each time they didn't give us anything but the keys.

    Anytime, we have to pay for anything, of course, they give us the detailed receipt. But on warranty, there is no receipt for them to give us.

    Sorry. But I am happy that it's fixed, paper work or not.
  • ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    Always demand paperwork for resale and trade-in purposes. Don't leave the dealership until you get it, even if you have to have them type it up in front of you and sign it in blood.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,433
    based on past experience (with a Mercury), the converter is covered under the emission warranty. So, not remembering exactly the mileage limit, I think it should be covered by that, or at least the 5/60 powertrain. No way a CC whould crap out in 3 years, but them babies are expensive. You can ignore it, at least until your next emissions inspection.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • g00chg00ch Member Posts: 10
    If a CC shouldn't crap out in 3 years (3 years 3 months to be exact) then maybe there is some other problem in the car that is causing the accelerated failure (O2 sensor, etc). But if it was a sensor, you would think the code would have appeared in the computer when they checked it. I will have to double check on the warranty limits on the car, but you would think the dealer would point out if my car was still within range.
  • nissangirlnissangirl Member Posts: 186
    If I ever need a copy of anything, it's in their computer. However, I have NEVER needed or been asked for any kind of repair receipt for any car I have ever owned. If I PAID for work, I get a paid receipt, not that I hang on to it for very long. But, like I said, I can always ask for whatever I may need from my dealer. I am in a fairly small town, there is only one Nissan dealership, they are super people, we have purchased 6 vehicles from them, they know us, and I trust that they would print out whatever we requested.
  • kennyg5kennyg5 Member Posts: 360
    Yes, double check the warranty. The CC is related to emissions control and should have a fairly long warranty. If in fact it is under warranty, let the dealer know that it must fix it free of charge; dealers don't usually volunteer info because they are in the business of making money. Otherwise, contact Nissan North America's corporate headquarters. There should be a toll free number. I had the CC replaced when I had the Oldsmobile.
  • g00chg00ch Member Posts: 10
    Thanks guys... I in fact looked at the warranty information and the CC is covered by the 'Long Term Federal Emissions Warranty'. Something like 9 years/86,000 (I don't know the exact numbers, but it is more than what I am current at now). I will be calling the dealer tomorrow and talk to the service manager and let him know of my findings and schedule the repair work. This information is much to the relief of myself and my wife.
  • dklaneckydklanecky Member Posts: 559
    Every time I've had warranty work of any kind done on my Maxima's, I've been asked to sign a "repair work order" which includes all of the parts numbers, costs, and labor hours and costs and diagnosis.

    (It looks identical to the repair work orders/receipts I sign when I'm paying for the work.)

    Consequently, I have a complete mechanical history for all of my Nissan in paper (and they also have the information available up on their web site.)

    I was told that the dealer has to turn this information in to get reimbursed by Nissan for parts and labor invested in performing the warranty work.

    I naturally thought that this in essence meant the warranty work was done basically at no cost to the dealer (other than the lost cash flow).

    Anybody out there from inside a dealership who can confirm/correct this information?
Sign In or Register to comment.