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I'm curious, since the vibration doesn't start until approximately 20 minutes or so after driving the car, will the items you noted still hold true??
I did speak to a Goodyear store manager who stated that the GY tires where created specfically for the 04/05 Maxima and he has seen nothing but trouble from them including cracks and was not surprized by my comments about the car's behaviour.
He said the only other tire he knows that will fit the car are Bridgestones, as the Continentals are worse than the GY's.
Thanks again!
Has anyone purchased an extended warranty FROM NISSAN (not one of the independent services I receive daily spam about)on a vehicle this long after the original purchase? What can expect to pay for that? (i.e. - I don't really expect to pay full price - I realize that extended warranties can be had at roughly 50% the first price the dealershipos give you when you negotiate the price of a vehicle.) Thanks!!
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html
I also bought a Haynes Repair Book for Maxima. Changing a ignition coils is not really hard. I changed one of my coils instead of the dealer wanted to changed all six. Yet, I have been driving for 30k and have yet seen the problem again. When you buy a new replacing coil, make sure that the part number on the new remanufactured coil different than the part number of the orginal old coil. Tell the dealer allows you to look up on his computer database or catalog... I believe that the new one has the last number with "2" where the original one is "1"
I had all six coils changed @36,000 miles. The dealership treated the service as if under warranty. A year later #2 coil went bad. I paid for replacement. 10 months later #6 coil went bad. So I replaced that coil and remaining four. I've spent over $700 total for repairs! Thanks for link to determine service engine warning and ECU code diagnosis. I will not take car to dealership for repair if it happens again. Seems as though Nissan should offer a recall with this many people experiencing the same problems!
However, I say if you can get the price on the warranty dropped and have it included in your financing, why not buy it...at the very least for the peace of mind. I know it helped me rest easier at night knowing that if the engine dropped out of the car for some reason, it would be covered.
Secondly, I told him to go ahead and continue looking at the engine and before I know it, he's sent my heads out for re-machining (without even telling me or asking before-hand). Why would those need to be re-machined and is it plausible that it was caused by a timing chain issue?
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
The shimy I have felt as well but only around 80-100km/h (50-60 miles/hr) and the tires were caked with snow. Very cold out as well. -24 degC.
The only other things about mine that are suspect are the mysterious water dripping from the upper console (sunglasses holder) and the cloth on my headrest un-stitching. The dealer has given me no reason to complain about them though. Very helpful, so far.
Nissan will not offer an all-inclusive or bumper to bumper extended warranty. Instead, they'll present an impressive looking list of components they will cover. Don't be fooled - most of the items are repeated 2 or 3 times on the list. Keep in mind that Nissan retains a database from each dealer on what models have what problems. They use that information in many ways, one of which is to statistically predict which components may fail in the next 100,000 miles. Also keep in mind, they wouldn't offer to sell the extended warranty if they didn't think they could make money on it. Another trick - the extended warranty will also only cover labor if a part is replaced (which is why they wouldn't pay for the ECU reflash or axle nuts). The dealership made a couple of extra bucks off of me from that one!
If you're seriously concerned about the quality of your vehicle, you might want to trade it in for another vehicle. I love my Nissan, but I won't buy another due to the lack of customer service.
Do you know what the minimum rotor thickness is ?
How much material is normally removed to true up a rotor ( .020 in., .030 in.) ?? I know it will vary but approx. how much material will be removed if the rotor is warped ? I know, it depends on how bad the rotor is but, just give me a ballpark number if you can. Thanks in advance !!
I was looking to get extended warranty because I'm either keeping it for the long haul...or handing it over to my mother (1996 Maxima GLE w/ cold start problem) and checking out a TL. Maybe Honda's quality is still up to snuff. Boy....I'll miss my heated steering wheel, though.
Late last October, just 2 months after the manufacturer warranty expires, we paid nearly $800 to replace 2 rear oxygen sensors. Now, Jan 31, 05 one of the front sensors needs to be replaced.
We followed all the scheduled maintenance at a Nissan Dealer and it only has 33K miles--so much expensive repair so soon. So, we contacted the Nissan HQ's Consumer Affair department for assistance.
However, we have been passed around like a ball between dealer's maintenance personnel and Nissan's Consumer Affair Staff.
Wonder if we have any recourse in this case. We appreciate advise from anyone.
I am becoming more and more convinced that this company is going down the toilet very fast. I do not think they will be getting my business any time soon.
They took a great car like Maxima and turned it into a POS, because of neverending greed and using ever cheaper and lower quality parts in this car. Cheap parts + shoddy workmanship = junk
The formula above works equally well in any country, on any product.
Even now I hear that rattling some times butwhen i opena dn close the trunk a couple of times it goes away. I normally hear the sound when I am playing a song which has more bass.
Anyways, what they did was that they replaced the insulation in the area where speakers are installed. I guess this is a problem with more than one cars.
Maybe you want to take it back to the dealership and have them check the insulation in the rear speakers and break light area.
Good Luck.
I would contact an attorney and go from there. It is possible that your vehicle was damaged in transit, e.g. they partially dropped it off the truck when unloading, or it was not properly secured on the truck so the bumper got damaged. All such damage and subsequent repairs should have been disclosed at the time of delivery. typically, dalers will offer additional incentives to get rid of new vehicles that have been repaired. (e.g. car damaged by hail). they had tons of these for sale following intense hailstroms in Tennessee.
Typically, only few thousands of an inch of metal thickness are removed from a rotor in a single pass. Rotors that are deeply grooved should not be turned because many passes will be required to machine out the grooves and they would reduce the rotor thickness beyond the minimum allowable thickness. On most modern cars nowadays, there is not a lot of extra "meat" so that some rotors can only be turned once. Some manufacturers, such as VW or Mercedes do not turn rotors at all, but replace them at every brake pad change.
So if you are having your rotors turned, they will have to measure the rotor thickness and tell you if they can be turned. There are specs available for each rotor. I am not sure what it is for your Maxima, but your local Auto Zone store can tell you that.
I would not recommed turning rotors that require more than about 2 millimeter of thickness per total 1 inch (25.4 mm) rotor thickness of metal removed to make them true. What happens is that the rotors become thinner and more prone to warpage.
Good luck
DD
2000-01 Maxima
Front
1.024" original thickness
.945" discard thickness
.0004" thickness variation
.0028" lateral runout
Rear
.354" original thickness
.315" discard thickness
.0008" thickness variation
.0028" lateral runout
Machining usually removes about .010" each side, reducing thickness by .020". Should leave at least .020" above minimum thickness for wear after machining
My front passenger side speakers are intermittent. They will cut out except, the A pillar speaker will stay on, very low. If I adjust fade / balance, system sounds okay but I want it corrected. Again, this is an intermittent problem. Audio shop guy says may be the "coil" in the speaker. Wants $270 to replace all 4 front speakers - says that he has to do the whole set but doesn't seem sure that is the problem. I dont think so.
Any thoughts to help me out here?
By the way, this is the standard system, not the Bose.
Thanks in advance.
The advantage of timing chains in general, is that they don't require repetitive replacement and maintenance like belts do. I have a '96 GLE w/187k miles on it. Never done any timing belt work. I have several acquaintances that drive them as well, and no one has had such a problem.
That being said, mechanical things are unpredictable, and tensioners such. They're helpful from the technician's view because they take the guess work out of if a chain or belt is too tight or loose. However, it just adds another piece in there that can break. Mechanical things break unexpectedly. Just an ugly fact of life. I wouldn't worry too much about that.
Now the heads are a whole different issue. Unless you're rebuilding a motor or it's been run hot, you don't machine heads. Not sure, but if the chain was loose, I guess it could have damaged the outside, but not where the seal is, and that's what matters. If they didn't okay it first, I would contest paying for it, and ask for proof that it was even necessary.
Had the alternator replaced under Nissan recall (never had any problems with the original one. Replaced the hood gas struts because they wore out with age.
Warranty issues: zero, not even an adjustment required.
Tires replaced at 60K miles, right now on the second set of Toyos. Still on the original clutch - no problems. No sensors replaced, no check engine light on ever. No coil problems so far. Not a bad record for a car with over 100k miles. This is the most troublefree car I have ever owned.
HINT - the pen is truely mightier than the sword...don't show your hand...and write letters....lots of letters...to people at Nissan in very high places
First, those darn coil packs! Paid $700 for six new ones, mechanic said more than one was bad and that the rest would go as well. Second thing that pissed me off was the tires! The OEM tires sucked, they lost effective tread at 20k. Replaced at 40k with KUMHO ECSTA KH11 225/50WR 17 and i love them, made it feel like a whole different car and they only cost $400 a set, plus balance and mounting. I also have a set of 16" steel wheels w/ firestone winter fire tires, I can drive faster and safer than any SUV can in the snow, haha let it snow. Third, the wimpy brakes, warped rotors at 40k, replaced rotors and pads. I am considering new brake system, any suggestions?
The windshield wiper system sucks, only one sprayer works and the wipers barely do the job.
I installed a courtesy Nissan strut tower brace and was really impressed with the improved stiffness from the front end handling. Any suggestions on how to improve the rear end handling from the solid axel? Running premium fuel over regular is about a 20hp difference, I pump the good stuff. I have only used 5W-30 Mobil One since new, why stop a good thing going. Transmission flush at 40k, getting time for another flush soon.
I will never go to a Nissan dealership after hearing the crap they pull.
Before on this problem, I have taken the vehicle to dealer 3 times and balanced the tires and replaced the tires( dealer said they were replaced, but I am not sure). But the vibration is not gone. On top of that dealer said the tires are not good and replace with Michellin.
After reading your posting, I have taken my vehicle to Discount Tires at Indianapolis ( who had the Hunter GPS 9700 balancer). I taked to the technician personally and prepared to pay $15 dollars per tire for checking the tire and re-balance. The technician here at discount tires is very experienced and he knows what is doing and taken me to the machine and explained step by step how he is doing to balance the tires. He brought down the the force variation to 8-10lbs (maximum he can go for continental tires).
In that process he found the front drivers side tire was in bad condition. He tried to bring the force variation from 28lbs to 10lbs. But the test did not pass. So he ordered/replaced the tire free of cost. So he did not charge $15 for that tire. My problem is solved in $45 instead of going to dealer again.
So my suggestion is not to go to dealer if you have a tire problems. Nissan dealers do not know any thing on tire issues. They even send the vehicle to outside. Call Continental tires, if you have continental tires and register the case and take your vehicle to the any tire dealer who had the Hunter GPS 9700 m/c with case reference number.
I bought this beautiful car looking for peace on streets nevertheless I found a busy change transmission that are always going up and down looking for the best gear. For example if I down my speed to 15-20 MPH when I press my accelerator back to resume the car speed the transmission shift abruptly to first and quickly get the second and third gear moving all the car abruptly too. Also if I am going down the street the transmission start shift from 4 or 5 to 3 or 2, making hard ride again. I believe re-programing transmission shifts will resolve the problem. If anybody has been situation like this ?
Thanks
kw
has the diagnostic port under the dash just to the left of the steering column. Take your car to AutoZone....they can read your codes. ( no charge )
MAX WHEN I DRIVE MY CAR MY GEAR GETS STUCK ON 25 WONT GO NO HIGHER ONE DAY I NOTICED THAT THE OVERDRIVE BUTTON WAS ON I TURNED IT OFF AND THE CAR STARTED DRIVING OK WHEN I TRIED TO DRIVE IT LATER THAT DAY IT STARTED GETTING STUCK ALL OVER AGAIN CAN ANYBODY HELP
Although I was told by friends who are mechanically oriented that O2 sensor is not too expensive to obtain.
However, as an ordinary consumer, we neither have the proper tool nor know-how to change this component by ourselves. In the end, we all have to bear to high maintainence cost charged by car dealers's service centers. God help Californian--we need an efficient alternative commuting means.