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Comments
VERY annoying.
Thoughts?
In my opinion, NO ONE should have to spend ANY money on a new car for the first 5 yrs./ 50/000 mi
other than oil, tires and battery.
I firmly believe that automotive quality, on all makes, peaked about 8-10 yrs. ago. It seems like everyone is having problems. Some Toyotas have oil sludge problems! Acura TL's have some transmission problems! VW has some ign. coil problems! Of course we are ALL familiar with Nissan's problems.
Maybe the actual problem is the internet. The information age is so quick and efficient that we hear about things instantaneously. Anyhoo, good luck with your Toyota and wish me luck with my TL.
( I really think it's a crap shoot )
It goes back to what I said before. Quality and dependability are really slipping at Nissan.( and alot of other carmakers also ), and I am speaking from my WALLET.
Not me. At least, not yet (don't want to jinx myself!). I have a 2001 GLE with 45,000 trouble-free miles. So far I have only replaced tires. If you look at Edmunds consumer reviews you get lots of glowing reports. This forum is for problems so naturally we get a skewed idea of how extensive the problems are. I had a Subaru Forester that was trouble from very early on, but other seem to have had very good luck with theirs.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance for your responses.
Any info will be helpful. Thank you...
Recently, my car, after taking off from a stop sign at an intersection going uphill, just cut the engine off on me! The radio, headlights, dashboard, all were still on so I knew it wasn't the altinator and I have a new battery. I started thinking about the os sensor and coils and such and was hoping that wasn't it. The car wouldn't restart so I backed it down the hill and parked. Luckily I thought to try again the next day before calling a tow truck, and Whala! It started and ran ok.
I took it immediately to a place that does diagnostic and it turned out to be the Cam Positioning Sensor. Had it replaced for $160 parts and $60 labor.
Lesson to learn: try to start your car one more time before calling a tow truck...seems to be a common theme in some of the posts I've read.
I have had quotes of $750 to $850 to replace all 6 coils. Is it easy to do? How about the plugs, are the easy to get to and change??
how hard is it to replace the ignition coils and spark plugs on a 2000 max? I have been quoted $759.00 to replace 6 coils and 6 plugs but want to try it myself. are they easy to get to?
also thanks for the ecu instrux.
now car is pulling right, and really pulls right when accelerating. Had f.e align checked, all within specs. Shop that changed right axle said all is ok and nothing they did would affect f.e align. Why is car suddenly pulling to right now. Drove on a 500 mile trip prior to cv joint change, and car was not pulling. What is the problem?
thanks.
coils need to be disconnected from the plug, so the labor may be overlapping.
I've read a lot about coils and I've heard they're easy, like plug and play
connections, but the ones in back may be harder to get to. I know that's true
for sure for the plugs. Some say a certain plug wrench is almost essential so
you can get at them and not drop them, etc. My .02 would be to buy all the parts
yourself. Then install what you can, like maybe the front plugs and coils. Then find an independent mechanic to do the rears, if they are that hard, and pay him for just the labor. Shop a couple and go with cheapest as it's
an easy repair. This is just my .02 on what I'd do in this situation, but since
I have a 2000 SE with @ 80K on it with no coil issues I'm thinking my number
will get pulled sometime sooner rather than later. Also, if you go to a competitors forum whom I won't mention, they've got many write-ups on how to change coils yourself.
~Seeya
P.S. Use magnetic screwdriver so screws don't fall into spark plug hole.
Nissan Maxima 1993-1998 Repair Guide
The fuel filter is located in the engine compartment, next to the power brake booster.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse panel.
Start the engine.
After the engine stalls, try to restart the engine. If the engine will not start, the fuel pressure has been released.
Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Using a shop rag to absorb the excess fuel, loosen the fuel filter's hose clamps, remove the hoses and the filter. The fuel filter unclips from the bracket, allowing for easier replacement.
Check the hoses for cracks and flexibility. Replace any hardened and/or cracked hoses.
Install a new fuel filter in the proper direction. Usually an arrow indicates the direction of fuel flow.
When installing fuel hose clamps, be sure to position the clamp so it is 3mm from the end of the hose.
Install the fuel pump fuse.
Start the engine and check for leaks. It may be necessary to crank the engine for a time to build fuel pressure, so don't be alarmed if it doesn't start immediately.
Also, the car recently (within the past week) has started stalling out at traffic lights and intersections. After it stalls, it starts up again with no problem. It also has started surging forward while I'm driving and the RPMs shoot up and then drop back down to normal. After it does this, it typically stalls. Anyone have any advice to offer? I'm a student so a cheap, but effective solution is definitely what I need.
I hope you didn't pay for any of this !!!!!!!!!
And Yes, Nissan is having problems with Titans, Armadas, and Quests.
However, in defense of Nissan, I believe I saw a reliability report for cars that are 5 yrs. old and the rating was quite good. So, the above cars are better initially, but the Nissans apparently age better. I hope so !!
Any help would be great!
Can I set up door getting locked when I put car in gear and door getting un-locked when I put car in Parking gear? If yes, how?
I have put my head lights in auto position, so they will switch on when its dark outside. My question is... if I unlock the doors using my key, the light flashes, the light inside the cars switches on, but not the head-light. Can I setup to switch on the headlights, when I unlock the doors using key? If yes, how?
thanks,
BG
Derrick
Nissan Maxima 1993-1998 Repair Guide
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
On the VE30DE and VQ30DE engines, remove the air duct.
Disconnect the starter wiring at the starter, taking note of the positions for correct installation.
On the VE30DE engine, remove the connector brackets.
Remove the starter-to-engine bolts ,and remove the starter from the vehicle.
To install:
Holding the starter in position, insert and tighten the attaching bolts. Be careful not overtorque the mounting bolts as this will crack the nose of the starter case.
Install the starter wiring in the correct location.
On the VE30DE engine, install the air duct and the connector brackets.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Start the engine a few times to make sure of proper operation.
sound on the right side,seems like it is right under the floor board.I've heard a sound something like this before in an old 71 celia and it was the tail pipe was loose.I don't expect this on my car that only has 10,500 mile on it and I purchased last March.Has anyone else ever had this problem.It is the SE model.
tomorrow for an oil change and I'm make an appointment & inquire about the struts.Again thanks.
Can someone give me the quick run down on the fan schematic? Each of the two fans has four wires. There is a green and black pair as well as a yellow and blue pair.
Thanks. stephan.35@osu.edu.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
TO: Nissan North America
RE: Comments on 2005 Nissan Maxima SE
VIN: 1N4BA41E35C806482
Overall: This is my first non-GM vehicle. I purchased it because of the progressive styling and reputation for durability and value. After driving the car for 3 months and 3,900 miles, I feel severely disappointed by the overall performance of the Maxima. Although the car feels structurally solid, the drivetrain doesn’t feel smooth and seamless. The car has an unacceptable noise problem when driving over sand, salt and gravel and has severe paint chipping on the lower rocker panels. (See the “Simply Unacceptable” area) From what I can tell, it appears that the Maxima product was designed and then “shipped” without any real world testing, especially in the winter months in the Northern US.
Although the styling of Maxima brought me to purchase the car, it will take significant improvements in the drivetrain smoothness, interior quietness and paint durability of the car to bring me back to buy another Nissan product.
Following are my dislikes and likes of the vehicle:
Simply unacceptable:
Noise in passenger compartment from road stones, sand, salt & gravel picked up by tires and thrown onto underbody of car - Sound level of the stones hitting underbody is way too noisy, sounds like you’re riding in a “tin can”. In a “Flagship” car, you shouldn’t hear every pebble thrown onto the underbody. The car needs some sort of sound deadening material in the underbody area.
After 3 months/3,900 miles, the lower rocker panel is chipped and “sandblasted” from the sand, salt and gravel put on the road during the winter. The sand, salt & gravel have been thrown up on the rocker panels by the tires – the optional splash guards have not prevented this. I have barely made two payments on the car and now I am already looking at paint chips from normal winter driving. Big disappointment!!!
Negative items:
Drivetrain:
Upon light acceleration, the engine feels weak, instable and insecure. The transmission shifts are too noticeable and the engine feels weak immediately after a shift.
Excessive upshifts/downshifts in automatic transmission. A 265hp engine should be able to climb a small northern Indiana hill without downshifting.
I’m still baffled by how the Maxima’s engine is rated at 265hp, when it feels like it can hardly get out of its own way. My old car, a 1998 Regal with a Supercharged 3800 engine rated at merely 240 hp has tons more power, shifts much more smoothly and idles more smoothly – all at 125,000 miles. Yet my brand new “flagship” from Nissan is constantly sorting for the right gear, jerking in between shifts and occasionally “freewheeling” when downshifting
At idle, engine vibration is felt in passenger compartment. In a “Flagship” car, the passengers should be completely unaware of the engine running at idle.
Transmission “jerks” and/or “pulsates” at speeds below 40mph – when you let off gas pedal just as transmission shifts.
Engine doesn’t start on first try – this has happened a dozen times or so since I’ve had the car. Usually it then starts on the second try. Three times I’ve had to “crank” engine 5 or 6 times before it started. The engine cranks ok, but doesn’t either get fuel or spark – it just sets and cranks. Reminds me of carbureted engines in the 80’s that started hard when cold. With the Maxima, there appears to be no rhyme or reason why this occurs, sometimes the engine is warm, sometimes it is cold (these three times have occurred during winter months in Northern Indiana – temperatures cooler).
Engine “races” to 2,500+ RPM immediately when started. Why in the world do you want the engine to start so fast when it is cold and the oil is stiff and setting in the bottom of the oil pan??? Some luxury cars such as Mercedes limit the RPM’s on a cold engine.
Interior
Annoying “creaking” and “snapping” noise in lower instrument panel (near center console) – should not be hearing rattles & noises at 3,900 miles.
Heated seats – worthless. Why should it take 5 minutes for the heated seats to warm up? By then the engine has warmed up and the HVAC system is putting warm air into the car. GM’s heated seats warm up in 30 seconds.
Steering wheel controls should be illuminated
Outside mirror controls are located in an awkward place – difficult to reach and use without taking eyes off of road for an extended period of time.
It’s difficult to know when the automatic headlights have turned on – since the instrument cluster is illuminated all the time. Preferably, there should be an indicator light that shows when the headlights are on. There should also be a 30 second delay in the sensor so that the lights aren’t turning on and off excessively (i.e. when driving under a bridge in the middle of the day)
Defroster logic. I have yet to figure out why the front windshield defroster doesn’t automatically come on when the car is first started in cold weather – but then after the car has been driven awhile it sometimes automatically switches on the defroster (when not needed).
Seals on bottom of doors – poor design. Seal has a “V” channel in it that collects dirt and debris when driving. It’s a real nuisance to spray out this dirt when washing the car. Seal design should be improved so that dirt doesn’t collect in it.
Positive Items
Love the styling of the Maxima – nice smooth flowing lines.
20 gallon gas tank, gives car a nice long driving range.
BOSE sound system sounds great!.
It’s nice that Nissan allows you to choose between XM or Sirius Satellite radio based upon personal preference.
Smooth, stable ride over very rough country roads
Instrument panel is well organized and unobtrusive.
Interior is roomy and spacious, plenty of room in front seats and in backseat area.
Like the suede fabric on interior door panels & how it wraps around the instrument panel.
Like the brushed aluminum trim – gives the car a refined and high tech appearance.
Previous cars:
1998 Buick Regal GS (Supercharged 3800 Engine)
1993 Buick Regal (3800 Series I Engine)
1990 Buick Riviera (3800 Series I Engine)
1984 Buick Regal (Carbureted 3.8L Engine)
Contact Information:
Jerry Mast
Email address: mastj@1stsource.com