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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • 97maximaowner97maximaowner Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the Re: :)

    The engine doesn't shake on start, it shakes when its really warmed up (10-20+ min of operating).

    I had my mech. check the cooling and sensors, and I had a bad Knock sensor, so I replaced it, and nothing... :confuse:

    This is really frustrating :( :mad: I also had all my rotors, and brakes replaced, as well as all my calipers and hoses. and right now the car passes a computer diagnostic with flying colors. But the problem persists. Please help.

    Thank you.
  • drdannydrdrdannydr Member Posts: 1
    I have a Nissan Maxima 96, and I had the starter replaced a few months ago and after it was replaced the check engine light came on. But the car runs fine. Also had a tune up done and replaced both front axels. Today the battery and brake light turn on. checked brake fluid and its full. Also checked all my fuses and they are all ok. What can make the battery light and the brake light turn on?
  • johnf2johnf2 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    Did you ever come up with a solution to your problem?

    I am having a similar problem with my 96 Maxima. It has 113K miles on it.
    This problem started occurring over that last week now that we are getting
    80 degree weather here in New England. In the morning when its around 60 the car starts fine. It sits in the parking lot at work all day in the sun and when I
    go home it won't start. The only thing that seems to work is put the key in the
    ON position in the ignition and wait around a minute and then start it.

    There is an after maket alarm with the car. I suspected the relay between the
    ignition and starter may be affected the the interior heating up during the day.
    But keeping the windows open when it's parked didn't help. So I bypassed the
    relay by rewiring the ignition back directly to the starter but no luck there.

    I saw some notes in the forum that said the 95-99 Maxima need periodic starter replacements. I already replaced mine back in January 2002 but it is not too hot
    in this neck of the woods that time of year.
  • hankshanks Member Posts: 1
    Hi, there. I recently have a strange problem with my Maxima. When I start the car, sometimes there's no response at all. The engine doesn't beep but the brake is OK to push down. I happen to find the solution to this problem is just to change the shift from P to R ( the car will not move as the engine actually not work yet), then back to P, then turn off the key and turn on again. Although this solution works, it is really annoying.

    A related symptom is that when the car is started already, I reverse the car, and then begin to drive by changing the shift to "D" and pushing the gas pedal, the rotation speed will be very high but the car moves very slow. I'll have to change the shift to "2" to make it normal. After the car is moving, I can change the shift back to "D" and drive smoothly.

    I suspect it's something wrong with the transmission system. Someone told me the inhibit switch might not work. However who are familar with this part? I google it but no luck! Any help will be appreciated.
  • mastjmastj Member Posts: 14
    George:

    I have exactly the same problem - there are other posts on here as well with the same complaint. Look back 6 months or so to find them.

    I've not yet complained about it, since it sounds like its just a part of the 5 speed auto tranny. I've heard in one prior post that the dealership reset the ECM so that it had to relearn its shifts (non-technical version). This person reported that it seemed to help, but then the abrupt shifting returned in a few days.

    I know this is disappointing, and I don't think's right, but I will say that after having mine 6 months now, I tend to notice it less. But I have to say it still bugs me... because my driveway is about 250' long and just as I get near the garage I let of the gas and I always get that abrupt pulsation.

    Please write back and let us know if your dealer comes up with any solutions. I've got other fish to fry with my dealer right now.

    Jerry
  • elecboyelecboy Member Posts: 2
    If the mechanic does not know how to find your problem, do not let him work on your car.
    Check the inhibitor switch on the transmission.
    Ground from the switch goes to inhibitor relay in engine compartment.
    To find all this your mechanic should get the ALLDATA software. :cry:
  • rtyrty Member Posts: 1
    the problem is the alternator if you have a wiring diag you will see that the brake lights and battery lights are connected together the way you can tell is if both lights are are and you raise the emergency brake and the brake ligh gets brighter its the alternator
  • warrior_prwarrior_pr Member Posts: 28
    2005 Maxima SL Auto- transmission got the same problem. My dealer say that is part of the new shift logic feature that Nissan is proud to announce in their advertising, so they don’t believe Nissan its going to do any fix about it. I want to know who was the Japanese engineers that convince Nissan to say that that transmission programming will be a successful one. My Ford Explorer get better transmission shift than my new Maxima. That is embarrassing. That is my first and last Nissan. I am very frustrate with my Nissan Maxima. :( :mad: :cry:
  • bschottbschott Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone offer advice for my 98 Maxima? My a/c was not working and I went to the dealer who recharged my system and subsequently told me my compressor was broken inside and needed to be replaced. I did that today and recharged the system. Plenty of air blowing, but it is not cold. Seems like the flapper valve is stuck and will not allow cold air to enter the car. I have checked all fuses and relays seem to be fine. Also did the self-diagnosis (hold down "off" when starting car for 5 seconds and going through the diagnosis). Does show code 25 (sunlight sensor) which I replaced. Would that stop the whole system from operating?

    thanks!!

    brad
  • kanakana Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2001 Max, and I have a rotten egg smell coming from my car's exhaust. I heard there could be a potential problem. Is this true and did anybody have any experience with it??? It might be useful to know that I noticed the smell after driving the car for a long time with AC on. However, I smelled it when AC was off.
    Thanks:)
  • rsollarsrsollars Member Posts: 1
    I've just purchased a 95 Maxima and am looking for the recirculate air intake...The previous owner was a smoker and I bought an aerosol duct cleaning product from autozone to try and eliminate some of the odor. I know they are typically on the passenger side under the glove box but I can't seem to find this one...Thanks for your help...
  • kjhuckkjhuck Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Maxima, and have the same problem. It only does it sometimes and I can figure out a pattern to it. I have balance and alignment done twice, and it still does it. I thought maybe I had a defective tire.
    So it is the struts?! Mine is about 6 months old.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Member Posts: 238
    I had a similar problem with an old Mazda 626. I took it back to the dealer and they forget something like an O ring. It worked fine after that. It could be something that simple.
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    Probably could of been your usage of a particular octane gasoline. What octane rating of gas do you use? Most nissan maxima that i know recommends using premium, but i've heard that using mostly premium can produce rotten egg smells from the exhaust. Maybe try unleaded plus or regular and see if that helps some, if not than probably a big fat nasty juicy bug is in your muffler hehe j/k =)
  • johnf2johnf2 Member Posts: 2
    The local mechanic traced my problem down to the ignition switch. This may be a common problem in that when the mechanic called the Nissan dealer to get the part the dealer asked how many would he like. It has been running fine since the
    replacement.
  • bschottbschott Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the suggestion - I did replace the O rings on all hoses.
    brad
  • mattymc311mattymc311 Member Posts: 3
    My remote for locking and unlocking doors does not work any longer. It did at one time work. I changed the battery and it still does not work. Does anyone have any other ideas that might help fix this problem? Thanks
  • mattymc311mattymc311 Member Posts: 3
    My have a 99 Maxima and the A/C stopped working in all positions except off and high. I heard that there might be a fuse that needs to be replaced. Has anyone heard anything like this or maybe something else? Thanks
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    Do you mean your fan only works on the highest speed? If so, this is caused by a blown resistor pack. It's located underneath the glove compartment, right in the air duct. You can identify it by a two-wire connector, and it's held by two screws. Very easy to do it yourself, the part is around $30-40 from the dealer. DO NOT be tempted to try the new pack by turning the fan on without inserting it back into the duct, it is cooled by the air, and you will burn it.
  • kmc3kmc3 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I also have a 2001 Maxima that had to have the gas tank door replaced. I have actually seen a few other Maximas while driving that have the door either missing or not closed....as mine was for a while before I could replace it.
  • mattymc311mattymc311 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, I will give it a shot.
  • sfreitagsfreitag Member Posts: 4
    I had 2002 Nissan Maxima SE and also had a problem with Gas Door.
    It would not fit/close properly, so parts of the door extended beyond the body of the car. Because of this problem, I couldn't go through car washes, in fear it would be ripped off. I'm sure it is only a matter of time before the Gas Door will come off.
  • georgeb2dgeorgeb2d Member Posts: 1
    That makes so much sense on mine. Where would you go to get an after market rotor that is larger? Do the calipers have to be replaced as well?
  • ltslts Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Maxima & also have vibrations / rattles in the front dash - driver's side, in the rear panel by the speakers, hard shifting when accelerating, steering wheel shimmy when applying the brakes at 60 - 70 mph. I'm as frustrated as you guys with the dealership. I haven't even had this car a year, and it's been in the shop so many times! What to do? I'm so tired of feeling like a chronic complainer! Where can I find these "Service Advisory" notices? :mad:
  • rimarkrimark Member Posts: 1
    What a combo, eh?

    2000 Max, 135k miles, and it seems the cooling fan is running constantly. During the recent hot weather the temp ran very high and almost overheated. Anyone else experience this? Tips? Ideas?

    Also, I have electric seats and the forward and back function on the drivers seat has stopped working, all other seat controls work fine....anyone? Bueller??

    Thanks in advance for any ideas!

    Mark in RI
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    Thanks for your post. I am experiencing exactly the same problem. The brake light and the battery light come on. If I apply the hand brake the light gets more intense.

    My problem is intermittent, though. It normally happens the first time the car is started and then tends to go away for a few days.

    Do I need a new alternator?
  • robbie05robbie05 Member Posts: 2
    The car is near perfect. The only problem is, if I drove the car for a while, then shut down the engine, and try to immediate start the car again, it will stall. Everything sounds right the second I started the car, then the tachometer pointer went to around 1200 rpm and started to come back. Normally it should stop at 650-700 rpm, instead it went all the way to zero.

    However, as long as I step on the gas and rev it to 2500 rpm in such situation, it WILL start and everything will be just as normal.

    I have no problem with cold start, or start several minutes after shutting off the engine.

    Could it be the gas? The previous owner used 89, but since the manual recommended 91 or better, I used 93.
  • mastjmastj Member Posts: 14
    Baron

    That's very interesting.... wonder if it came from the factory with the navi and then something happened to the screen and they just replaced it with a standard orange screen??? Do you have the original window sticker anywhere in the car? That should show the navi charge, and maybe prove my theory... who knows.

    As for the buttons, have you looked in the owners manual (yes, I know its thick) and checked to see whether the buttons are just mislabeled? Maybe they accidentially put the Navi buttons in your car, but they actually do the no-Navi functions. I'd look at the non-navi setup and see whether by pushing a button whether that gives you the non-navi feature. As I recall, there are the same number of buttons and same layout regardless of the system, they are just labeled differently.

    If that doesn't help, email me and I'll send you a photo of my buttons (don't read anything into that!!!) - I have an 05 w/o the navi.

    Thanks,
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    I dont think it has anything to do with the type of octane you use for your fuel. Just to ask, have you change your timing belt or spark plugs recently?
  • harvey1636harvey1636 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem and it's not the bulb or fuse. How did you remedy your repair? Need advice.
  • robbie05robbie05 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought the car in May, and the owner doesn't mention changing timing belt or spark plugs. By the way, Maxima has timing chains and 100k miles spark plugs.
  • wcislowcislo Member Posts: 3
    My '96 Maxima's check engine light came on and showed tps, knock sensor and 2nd gear a/t - they did a band adjustment ($35) for the 2nd gear a/t and cleared the codes. A week later light came on again for tps, knock sensor and 1st gear a/t. Now they want to do a diagnosis ($100+). Should I just have the tps replaced? What about the knock sensor? How are these codes related?
  • maxima_2002maxima_2002 Member Posts: 1
    I bought my 2002 Maxima SE used last year from a dealer. The fuel cover was sticky even then, but I didn't pay to much attention to it - my mistake. After filling up last night, I couldn't close the door properly and had to remove it entirely (held on by two screws) this morning. The hinge was totally seized, and I had to damage it even more to remove it. After seeing the posts here, it seems like this is a common problem. Hard to believe given the relatively high quality of the mechanical parts on the rest of the car. Wonder how much this is going to cost me replace.
  • dobrydobry Member Posts: 7
    i write allready why was the problem it was ignition lock.It cost me 150$+labor.I have the same symptoms when hot i couldnt start the car over 70 degree weather.
  • hominkahominka Member Posts: 1
    Did you look at both sides of the dipstick? I was a little puzzled about my 95 Maxima at first as well, but soon found the markings on the other side of the stick.
  • maxine6maxine6 Member Posts: 1
    Aikido2, I have a 98 GLE, and while I haven't had this specific problem, it's happened to me on a different car. The solution, replacing the starter AND ignition switch. Just like with your issue, my car was stopping right in the middle of the road. Hope this can help.
  • amandashamandash Member Posts: 14
    I had a similar problem on a 93 Maxima. There is a temperature sensor on behind the glove compartment on the evaporator. Mine had an aluminum heat sink attached. Hope this helps
  • wcislowcislo Member Posts: 3
    An update to my original message - after being on for the past 5 days, my check engine light went out - does that mean I shouldn't do anything??
  • turbojazzturbojazz Member Posts: 1
    Hello there.

    I have a 2004 SE as well and have experienced the shut down (Fail Safe Mode) 5 times. First time was less than a year after I purchased the car. I have taken the car in 4 times for repair and decided that this is ridiculous so I contacted Nissan North America Consumer Line. This resulted in no action when I asked that this car should be exchanged or repurchased. So - had to contact BBB and am set for a hearing date in a bout a week from now. Two occasions were really dangerous. This happened when attempting to accelerate on a freeway during rush hour. Almost got hit by three cars !!! Seems to be something with the Throttle Control system ... and the last repair attempt - they replaced the main electrical wiring harness. Still happened once after that. The Service Engine Soon light comes on, the car goes into Fail Safe Mode which gives you just enough power to move off to the side of the road. After waiting about 2 minutes with the engine off, the car will start and run but the Service Engine Soon light remains on. I have been a long time loyal Nissan consumer but I am having second thoughts about Nissan now. :lemon:

    Have you had any resolution since posting your message?

    Thanks...
  • ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    My 2000 SE just took a rock to the windshield and it needs to be replaced. Looking for advice. Are all the places pretty much the same, meaning Harmon, or any of those that come to you to fix? Do they use aftermarket windshields, or is there a Nissan OEM one you can get? Does it matter??
  • ammo267ammo267 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Maxima GLE. My A/C compressor is getting no power. I checked at the relay block and there is no power on the switch side there. The coil side has power and the relay is working but the switch side has none. Does anyone know where the power is fed from to the relay block?? Please help!!
  • aggiedogaggiedog Member Posts: 238
    Most places are pretty good. Just look for those that have been around awhile. And it doesn't matter whether they do it at their shop or your own place. They typically use aftermarket windshields which in my experience are as good if not better than oem. It may cost you more than just your deductible to get that oem.
  • pjnpjn Member Posts: 4
    Greetings. I have a '97 Max which runs very well and for the last couple of years my SES light has come on and stayed on for months, then would go off for month then come on again and so forth. The car has always run fine and rec'd very low emissions readings back as of last AIMs test in 2003.

    A colleague who also owns a Max gave me the following website:
    www.vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html

    Click on "Check Engine Light" and there are detailed instructions on obtaining the codes yourself as well as turning off the dreaded SES light. I did it last evening, it took less than 5 minutes and it worked.

    I received three codes that were decoded on this same website. Anyone familiar with EVAP canister vent control valve, knock system and EVAP System?

    Ivan">link title
  • gengen Member Posts: 5
    169k miles with CEL code 0303, and was due for a tune up. Starting problems were occurring frequently where it took several tries b4 the engine would start, whether hot or cold. Often I had to press the gas pedal in order to stay at 1500 rpm for a few seconds, or it would stall immediately after starting.

    Symptoms seemed like a flooded engine, so I did some reading, bought parts and got dirty.

    LH O2 sensor, NGK platinum plugs, K&N air filter, fuel filter, throttle body cleaning, and oil change.

    I thought the starting problems were due to the bad O2 sensor, and I now had an all-clear code 0505, but the problem remained. Thanks to this forum, along with a couple others, I pinpointed the source down to the coolant temperature sensor. I bought a Wells 3/8” thread sensor from Autozone and the car is starting up fine. All the other tune-up work was necessary as well, and the car runs very smoothly.

    Note: for the O2 sensor, it was a tight spot, so I used a 6” wrench with 1” jaw. You need 13/16” min. jaw. And the spark plug in the back, near the driver side is tough to get out, and tougher to put back in. I had to wedge it slightly in order to get the coil back in without snapping it. Be careful as they do snap at the joint if bent too far. You'll hear a sharp crack. Yep, I know from experience.
  • detrmnd2detrmnd2 Member Posts: 1
    The a/c works fine in my 1990 Max until I put the blower on position #4. Air continues to blow but it is no longer cool. I move the blower to position #3 and it works fine once again. My Haynes repair manual isn't much help in this area. Any recommendations?
  • guadvasguadvas Member Posts: 2
    Hi guys,
    I made the mistake of messing with the thottle stop adjustment (factory set) when I was having problems with my idle. Well, I fixed my idle problem and now have to reset my throttle stop adjustment. Does anyone have a simple way of doing this or do I have to take it to the DEALER? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    lupe vasquez
  • bingsbings Member Posts: 1
    HI everyone.
    I have a modified '96 maxima with a "98 infiniti I30 engine. It was a straight swap with no major adjustments. engine runs great but recently developed a problem when starting. It takes a few cranks from a cold start to get it going but once you drive and try and restart there's no problem. mechanic checked the fuel pump,filter and found no problem with either, egr valves were cleaned, faulty knock sensor replaced and the starter is new???? need help please
    Thanks
  • leonoraileonorai Member Posts: 1
    2004 Nissan Maxima SL

    Initial problem was the car did not start on the first try from purchase. The Service engine light went on. 3 fuel injector replaced and that did not solve the problem then the dealer replaced the fuel pump, the car started but the car still had no power and was shifting horribly. Dealer then said it was a internal valve in the transmission. They opened transmission and then dealer stated it needed a "new unit". They then replaced the with a " new unit" and car was shaking and still downshiting and not shifting properly at all. Then back to the dealer and the transmisson was leaking then they told me an axel seal would fix the problem, they replaced an axel seal. I drove it home and parked the car. Now the car wont start and the dealer says its the battery. My maxima is not a year old yet and has 20,000 miles on it. The service engine light or any kind of warning light did not go on during the last few problems. Is this a lemon or what? I need help please. Thank you :lemon: :cry:
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    In my opinion, nissan makes some really good products for tuneups but their maximas are really disappointing. I would advice anyone who are attempting to purchase a car to stay away from maximas. Disagree or agree anyone?
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    Totally disagree. I have an '01 GLE with 49,000 miles. Total repairs so far: one drive belt and the gas cap door. Pretty minor for 4 years.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
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