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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • rafarafa Member Posts: 35
    Hi if your maxima is 1996 or newer you can take it to auto zone and they can check it with there computer for free ad can tell you what the codes mean dont pay a shop no money
  • max98max98 Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced the exhaust on my Maxima about a month ago from the catalytic convertor back. It was a aftermarket direct bolt on system. Since then I've seemed to notice hesitation a bit? Odd? even more so, now that the check engine light came on twice and my local repair shop read the code and both times knock sensor came up. Coincidence? Can a faulty knock sensor be the culprit of the hesitation i'm noticing? Appreciate any input.
  • spintlspintl Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 94 Nissan Maxima, 186K Miles.. I just got REAR brakes done by Meineke 10 days back. I notice that there has been a loss of power and actually can feel like the engine is straining once I am on the highway driving at 55-60Mph (i have the A/c on also). Did the brake job cause this? I did not have this problem before..
  • al57al57 Member Posts: 67
    thanks for the info on the noisy engine mount,after looking thru the max catalogue i noticed that the car has electronically controlled liquid filled engine mounts,how was it determined if the front or rear was bad when replaced and can anything happen if the noise persists??what did the dealer say happens to make them go bad..ALL HELP IS APPRECIATED
  • jdelaiglejdelaigle Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2001 GLE and on the way home today, at highway speeds, it started cuttin out a little, kinda like it needs a new spark plug or coil. Any suggestions????
  • lw9511lw9511 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Maxima with intermittent problems. The Heat gauge will move up almost to the highest point and almost overheat and at the same time the gas gauge will go to 3/4 when i only have less than a quarter tank of gas. I will go a week with no issues and then it will start acting up again.

    Anyone seen a similar issues or know of what might be wrong? Pls help! :cry:
  • spyglassspyglass Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Maxima and have had my starter die 3 times in the past year. Again this week I got a strange hesitated start and am worried it is going to die again. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
  • bsummersbsummers Member Posts: 2
    I am having intermittent problems starting my 96 Maxima....The car sometimes will take 10 revolutions to start and sometimes you will have to try more than once to get it to start. It has a tendency to seem flooded....Anyone ever had this problem and if so, how did you solve it.....

    Thanks
  • bsummersbsummers Member Posts: 2
    I had my started on my 96 Maxima drag really bad several times...I had it rebuilt twice and it was still bad...I recently had a new one put on...Seems to have helped.
  • dkjk4dkjk4 Member Posts: 3
    I have had the very same problems at speed ranges from 50 - 80 - I also have a Nissan Bra, but it's vibrated with and without - Nissan is now sending me a specialist also - going to give me a car while they check mine out - my problem is.. the vibration isn't consistent - it doesn't happen at any one speed or at any one time - it's driving me crazy! I even thought it was the traction control stuff and nothing worked - I've got a 05 - SL - with 2200 miles on it now - I'm in the arbritration portion of the lemon law on mine
  • Am troubleshooting my 1990 Maxima SE, according to the factory workshop manual, which refers to the "exhaust gas sensor." The manual illustrates and de-scribes both an "Exhaust Gas Sensor" (presumably the O2 sensor) and an "Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor." (The illustrations look identical.) I've located one--on the right side, before the catalytic converter. Is that the Exhaust Gas Sensor? Where is the other sensor located? I'd be grateful for clarification.
  • nvmaxnvmax Member Posts: 7
    I have a 97'Maxima with 110K miles on it. Yesterday while driving it suddenly started hesitating and speed came down form 60 to 30 mph. It almost appeared to me that some engines were not firing. When I press the gas pedal after a stop light it hesitates and gives a sputtering sound which increases if speed goes beyond above 30 mph. I did not replace the spark plugs since last 60,000 miles. Could that be the problem? Also I had a knock sensor light come up couple of months back and I did not replace the knock sensor. Could it be that?
  • netsfannetsfan Member Posts: 3
    Need your help! I have brought my 1998 Nissan GXE Maxima to both a master mechanic and a well respected Nissan dealership and they cannot resolve my problem. My turning signal do not work because the fuse keeps blowing out. When the fuse is replaced, I drive the car for a day or so and then I hear a clicking sound (sounds like the directional are on; but there not) and then in a matter of minutes the fuse blows and the directionals do not work. Can anyone assist?
    And Thanks in Advance for your help
  • nvmaxnvmax Member Posts: 7
    Looks like my 97'Maxima (110K miles) also has ignition coil problems based on the symptoms that others have mentioned. How difficult is it to replace the ignition coils on my own?
  • sarahmgsarahmg Member Posts: 1
    Did anyone ever figure out what fixed this problem? I have a '97 Maxima doing the same exact thing. It has been gradually getting harder and harder to start. When I turn the key, all the lights, radio, everything electrical works, but the engine won't turn over. I hear a whirring noise under the hood, but that is all. It's definitely effected by the temperature. If it's real hot out, I know it won't start. But if it's in the shade or cool, no problem. Sometimes if I keep trying to turn the key for 5-10 minutes or so straight, it will eventually start right up on a turn. I thought it might be the solenoid on the starter, but I just replaced the starter, and that wasn't it. It still has the same problem. I have been thinking of changing the relay or the ignition switch, but I don't want to waste more money by changing the wrong parts. It sounds like several people have had this problem. Please let me know if anyone figured out what fixed it or someone might have any other advice.
  • redsono93redsono93 Member Posts: 2
    All I know is I can't wait to trade in My 2004 Maxima I have had it since November of 04 and I have had nothing but bad luck wih it. From the LCD screen being all scratched up to the film on the dashboard. I have gone through 3 sets of tires since January. It was pre-cert. but nothing is covered under the warranty. I canceled it and Nissan is still charging me as if I had the warranty. Good thing I work with top notch Attorney's I smell a huge lawsuit. My front tire rattles it is because their is a slight bend in the front rim. Stick shifter knob pops off. The belts went. Too top it off my CD player broke and a CD was jammed. The stereo store told me Nissan is known for this problem. I paid $300, Nissan wanted $1200. I hope know one has to go through I went through.
  • ck_zerock_zero Member Posts: 1
    My drivers side power window decided to stop working today. Upon inspection I noticed that the motor cable has slipped and part of it has jammed itself within the case. My question is this... What is the best way to get that bad boy out so that I can readjust the cable? I took the door panel off, is there any way to break it down further to make this task a little easier? Right now I've been jamming my hands through the small holes in the door trying to get at it blindly. The motor still works and the window is still mounted to the assembly so I don't want to take it apart. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
  • I experienced the same problem with two diferent Maximas. In both cases the problem was caused by a rear directional-signal bulb whose base had become so hot as to melt, ruining the spring-loaded receptacle and preventing base contact. Solution was to replace the receptacles and install new bulbs. Some cars alert you to a failed directional-signal bulb by having the flasher "click" more rapidly. Good luck!
  • When the power window of my '92 Maxima failed in '96, I dismantled everything, believing I could get it working again. Problem was not the motor but the way the cable was secured (clamped); it appeared to be a design flaw. I bought a new "regulator" and installed it myself. The new regulator had an improved way of clamping the cable, leading me to believe the engineers had learned of the problem and made an improvement. I complained loudly to Nissan U.S.A. Would you believe it--they reimbursed me for the price of the regulator (about $90 as I recall) but balked at paying for my labor. They said they were doing this in the interest of keeping me a "life-long Nissan customer." Sometimes even poorly designed items will run forever, which explains why the three other power windows still work.
  • I'd be grateful for suggestions on how to get my '92 Maxima's back-lit switches (cruise-control main switch; fog lights; instruments brightness control; and rear-window defogger) to illuminate. All thse switches work, but don't light up when the headlights are turned on. All other lights on the instrument panel work. No fuses are blown.
  • gfdgfd Member Posts: 1
    This morning I opened the driver's door of my '92 Nissan Maxima and the horn went off. I had to disconnect the battery to stop it. This happened before, but trying to open from the passenger door, and when I try to start, it went off and the engine strated normally. Not today. Any quick fix solution before I call the towing truck?
  • netsfannetsfan Member Posts: 3
    Appreciate the response; I will check the rear directionals to see if this is the issue.
  • mervette5mervette5 Member Posts: 2
    High Roller Who did you confront? No One listened to me? Thanks
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    mervette5, i asked for and confronted the service manager at a local Nissan Dealership. I've tried several times to reason with the service advisor at the dealership, but this person was not helping at-all. The manager was, i guess you can say "willing" to listen and help me solve my issue. You will probably never find a good enough response from the customer service, service advisors. If you have a really major problem with the service advisor or the tech. who was working on your car, i would definitely talk to the service manager. This only applies to a service or a part you bought from the Nissan dealership. If you actually KNOW that the tech. guys or the service advisors( usually the one's who talk to you whenever you go in for a service) are trying to rip you off. Talk to the service manager about it. They usually listen, because they would hate to see a pissed off customer. You must show frustration so that the person listening can feel your discontentment and angerness. My advice to give to the people who want to "challenge" Nissan parts or service is to talk directly in person only to the SERVICE MANAGER. And i highly recommend doing it VERY EARLY in the morning; like right when they open (so that nothing get's boggled down when it's late in the afternoon; so to speak).
  • whosthatladywhosthatlady Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone, this is my first time here and I have a few problems with my 1989 Nissan Maxima. 1)The engine light comes on and off. When I am on the freeway is when it usually comes on. 2) Also when I put my car in reverse, I hear a very loud noise as if I can feel it changing under the car. 3) Another thing is when I start the car and put my foot on the brake, I hear a click noise where the gears are located. 4) It also vibrates when I am at stoplights. Can someone help me? Thank You!!!
  • max27max27 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have the same thing going on. I am getting a bank1 lean code. I have not yet started taking the car to the dealer. Let me know if you found out anything.

    Mike
  • warrior_prwarrior_pr Member Posts: 28
    My 2005 SL Maxima (19500 miles) got problems with front disks. An expert told me I have to change both disks and pads. I called Nissan Service Center and they told me that those parts are not covered by warranty. Its that true ? . Somebody with the same problem and a different results?. It cost me $145 per disk $113 pads, all original nissan parts plus labor. Any suggestion ?
  • rmrmrmrmrmrm Member Posts: 1
    My 1995 Nissan Maxima SE with 195,000 kms periodically has wisps/curls of heavy white smoke coming slowly from behind/under the steering column housing (which covers the steering wheel) and sometimes wisps of smoke appear to be coming from the headlight & turn signal stalk on the left side of the steering column housing (it appears to creep out of the area where the switch tip(of the stalk) adjoins the stalk.

    This occurs in daylight (not when the headlights or fog lights are ON.

    The local dealer opened up that whole housing and claimed all looked "as new".

    The symptom comes while driving.....without any subsequent effect besides seeing the smoke. It lasts perhaps 2 - 3 minutes, then stops. The smell is of burning electrical wire (the smell produced when an insulated electrical wire is carrying too much current).
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    I believe most warranties are related to the engine and other such things that are "related/connected" to the engine. Disc and pad can be considered as wear and tear usage.

    Regards,
    Highroller
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    Do you have a premium sound system like bose ? If so it may be your cd/radio player. It might be draining your battery so becareful.
  • amerxamerx Member Posts: 1
    I own an Altima 2003,3.5 SE and I had been searching the web several days, visiting many Nissan forums to resolve the noise from my car. I too am hearing this noise from the front engine compartment which sounds like the zoom on a camera.My service advisor has ordered the motor mount and will install it under warranty even though I am out of 36 months warranty. I was not convinced that a motor mount has any thing to do with the sound of a tiny motor. After all the mount is filled with liquid and they are not replacing any electric motors. Also
    my car runs very smooth and has only 15000 miles on it. Did you have any vibration issues and did you find how the motor mount was making that sound?
  • mbthomas1971mbthomas1971 Member Posts: 1
    I am having some problems with my 1995 Nissan Maxima every great once in a while it sputters and dies. I also have the check engine light on 24/7 now it used to be every once in a while but now it stays on from start to stop. Now I am having problems that started today. I came out of a parking lot and it started to sputter but it never died, and it sounds like it is missing on a cylinder or something. We had a Nissan Pathfinder that sputtered forever and a day and it turned out that it was two bad fuel injectors to the cost of $400.00. Can anyone tell me what or if they had the similar problem. I am also getting noise like all you have been with the starting first time except mine is doing it all the time. :confuse:
  • robzillarobzilla Member Posts: 4
    Months ago I've taken my max to a dealership for a diagnostic (check engine light on & car starting to buck and run rough). After diagnostic, I was told my ignition coils were going bad and that all 6 would have to be replace. They said it will cost about $600+ and I say forget it for now. 9 months later, car starts to run rough again and check engine light appears. Now it won't stay on unless in drive and giving a little gas. The RPM drops from 500 RPM ( when in park) to O RMP and then turns off. AC helps to keep the idling up which keeps the car running a bit longer before turning off. Well I decide I had to replace the ignition coils, all 6. I replace all 6 with new spark plugs. Car still stalls after running. New diagnostic testing says it's now the O2 (Oxygen) Sensor going bad. Okay, O2 sensor is replaced, car still stalls after running for a little. The smell of gas is constant under the hood, air mass filter is checked and fine. You can see black smoke from exhaust and the car seems to be burning or dumping gas twice as much. I have to put in about $20 every 2-3 days because it's seems like it's burning rich.
    It's starting to look like it might be the car's CPU now but not 100% sure. Can any one help ? This is costing me an arm and a leg.
  • oldcarguy2oldcarguy2 Member Posts: 2
    my car used to start & idle at approx 2000 rpm.
    Soon the car would start then suddenly idle low (almost turn off) and
    then go back to 1500-2000 rpm.
    Then some days later it would shut down after starting up - too low
    rpm.
    Today it started and immediately shut off - now it does not start. It
    cranks and battery seems fine.
    :cry:
  • aggiedogaggiedog Member Posts: 238
    I'm not sure what your instrument panel looks like, but it sounds like a bulb or a few bulbs have blown. I owned a 93 Mazda 626 in which the dash lights started to fade on one side. I got a haynes manual and pulled out that part of the dash, with the odometer and simply replaced the bulbs. I'm not sure your's is that simple but just a suggestion.
  • rdeloachrdeloach Member Posts: 5
    The transmission will not shift from 3rd to D. It was doing this intermittantly and then stopped shifting for a while. It then started to work again. Now I am down to 3rd gear with D. What could the problem be. I am not getting any warning lights.
  • merdiemerdie Member Posts: 12
    Sorry about the transmission problem but do you also have the vibration that shakes the entire front end? As for Nissan and their Shift, it should be Shaft, that is what they are doing to their customers.
  • roshenroshen Member Posts: 2
    I had a similar experience with my 99 maxima under 30k miles. The symptom was more like loss of power and heavy vibrations - but the car will move. Cause - FAULTY IGNITION COIL. Since the dealer couldn't identify which of the 6 coils was faulty, they replaced all 6 under warranty
  • roshenroshen Member Posts: 2
    My '99 maxima when still under warranty had a similar problem. The dealership found that there was a faulty ignition coil - but couldn't identify which one. So on the first visit, they just reset the light and let me go. Twice again I went with the same problem - but they couldn't find the one. I escalated it to Nissan ( somebody in California). They co-ordinated the test with the local nissan dealer and finally replaced all the 6 coils !!!! This was 4 days before the expiration of warranty period.

    Recently , I had to replace the rear oxygen sensors (2 of them) at 68k miles and y'day the catalytic convertor ( which is still under warranty 8yrs/80k miles)
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    If its, not the bulb and/or one side of the dash light cluster is lighted; it's basically the circuit board. I had the nissan dealership took a look at it. They thought it was the light dimmer switch at first, that wasnt it. Got a compensation for the circuit board which cost about $65. Turned out to be the circuit board. Hope this helps.
  • Thanks, Aggiedog and Highroller, for the advice. It's gonna take me a while to get motivated to dig into the instrument panel. As four switches don't illuminate, it appears the problem is likely a circuit board. (The main instrument panel lights up fine.)
  • robzillarobzilla Member Posts: 4
    hey there .. a bank1 code means you O2 sensor needs to be replaced. I had that done too already. I hope this helps you out.
  • robzillarobzilla Member Posts: 4
    Sounds like ignition coils. They're easy to do it yourself and you can order them from just about any place. Dealership will over charge you by $30 per coil, 6 coils. Save a couple hundred dollars doing it yourself. Don't wait too long to fix it or you'll end up like me having to fix more than just the ignition coils. Replace the spark plugs too. good luck
  • springer58springer58 Member Posts: 1
    Help Please! The car would intermitently start or not, I replaced cap,rotor & plugs figuring this would take care of it. After the replacement, I noticed if the ignition key was on I could here a what sounded like a vacume pump running this would go on for about 5 min. then stop. When the pump sound stopped the car would start. The sound came from the lower engine compartment on the drivers side. Does anyone have thoughts on this one. On occasion the car does start without problem. Thanks
  • morehpmorehp Member Posts: 30
    My '95 did the same thing a couple of times. The first time it happened, I was convinced that the car would end up at the side of the road in flames! However it lasted less than a minute and did not recur for several weeks.

    I kept the car for about 3 years after this first occurred. It happened so infrequently that I never bothered to get it checked out (there were plenty of other more pressing concerns with that car!).

    Good luck.
  • honker24honker24 Member Posts: 1
    For those of you having intermittent problems starting your car, please check the connectors on your car battery. If wiggling or moving the connectors on the battery allows the car to start, try either cleaning the cable connectors and contacts, or do what I did and completely replace the cable connectors to something a bit more sturdy as the stock positive connectors on my 89 Maxima cracked slightly after 130k miles to the point where I didn't even see it until I took it off completely. I had the same symptoms before, where the car wouldn't start after being left idle for a while in the summer, my guess is that the heat caused the metal to expand on the connectors not allow a current to flow.
  • jcuisinierjcuisinier Member Posts: 6
    Help Please! To all Maxima Experts, my 1987 Maxima Wagon have 189,000 miles. The car was working fine till last winter. The transmission would not shift and stay on 1st gear for 5 mins during summer or 10 mins in winter during driving. The car can only drive as fast as 30 miles per hour. The engine gets warm up after while, the transmission would shift to 2nd gear. After about another 5 mins, it shifts to 3rd and 4th gear fine. When the car is running fine, the transmission have no signs of slipping, grinding or any kind of problem. The car has been good to me. original A/C, alternator, engine. Paint work still looks great, no sign of peeling. I would be thankful for any kinds of advice or suggestion. JC
  • oldcarguy2oldcarguy2 Member Posts: 2
    Got my car back from the dealership - they change the temperature sensor and also complained about the drive belt.
    Amazing how the parts total is almost $100 but the labor is $300!!!
    The check engine light still remains on!! What did they really fix?
  • rdeloachrdeloach Member Posts: 5
    Yesterday my Maxima almost stalled on the highway. Now takes 5 times to start. Went to Auto Zone and the pulled the code for the Camshaft position sensor. I call Nissan North America and there was a recall on that part. Good News! free!!

    I also asked about the transmission. 60,000 mile drivetrain warranty. Looks like the transmission will be fixed also.
  • reddiva24reddiva24 Member Posts: 3
    Hey Guys,

    After seven long months, I finally bought everything my 95 Maxima GLE needed so that I could replace that Bose cd player. It stopped playing my cds and even the tape deck stopped working! I replaced it with an after market Pioneer flip face and even though its not a Bose, its way better than listening to the corny radio stations. Anyways, Im still able to keep my priceless Bose speakers, which is great, but my question for you guys is about my back speakers. They havent been playing since my Bose cd player went out seven months ago. I know I didnt burst them because I dont hear that scratchy sound in them. I dont hear anything when I have just the back speakers playing. Im guessing its a wring problem in the back trunk, and I have moved a lot of stuff in and out of my trunk. Im wondering If I snacted anything by accident. Anyways, with this new cd player, Im really missing my back speakers :( . Can someone please help me with this problem? TIA.
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