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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • nberzatinberzati Member Posts: 6
    I own a 2001 Maxima (bought last year). I've replaced 3 sensors, one in the front and both rear sensors. I was told by my service writer that Nissan has a technical service bulletin "TSB" vs. a recall on the sensors. I think the difference is that you don't really hear about the bulletins like you do the recalls. Apparently the sensors are a problem with that year and some other years as well. Thank God for warranties!!!! The total replacement cost for both rear sensors was $850 - $150 each for the sensors, $200 each for the labor and $150 to re-program the computer.

    As far as your question about the grade of gas being a factor, I only have to say that I've always used premium/ultimate in my car, not only because the book recommends it, but because I believe the octane level should be higher to burn cleaner. I had a Toyota Corolla and I used a cheaper grade of gasoline just once and my car was shaking so bad and didn't have any pick-up, I thought the engine was blown. Prior to that, I never had a problem with the Corolla.

    P.S. My original reply went to bobbyr4 by mistake. Sorry Bobby.
  • dw1212dw1212 Member Posts: 1
    I've got almost 84K on my 2000 SE. Only major repair was for ignition coils earlier this year. :mad:

    Other standard repairs:
    Change of serpentine belt, tires, battery, front & rear brakes and front rotors.

    I've kept up on the maintenance and haven't had any repairs out of the ordinary.
  • poodog13poodog13 Member Posts: 320
    I also have a 2003 maxima (se) and also heard rattles coming from passenger side on rough road. when I brought it up to the dealer, they said it was the result of faulty tie rod ends and replaced them. seemed to address the problem at first, but eventually the rattle came back. my rattle didn't sound like coins, more hollow sounding than that, so might not be same problem.
  • jvel7jvel7 Member Posts: 1
    Interesting that I am seeing this same issue across many Maxima owners. I also have a 2005 SL with shimmy and acceleration problems. Not to mention that the transmission bangs into gear occasionally, most of the times when slowing down. I am very interested in participating in a class action lawsuit since my car has been in the shop 3 times for this very same problem. I get the infamous "we could not recreate problem" excuse. Of course, you test drive it at 50-60mph on a local road and not on the highway. I am very disappointed so far considering I owned 2 Nissan Altima's prior ( ' 99 & ' 02). Not to mention the dealer would not pay for my rental for the day or provide a loaner. I will note all of these threads and write a letter to Nissan Corporation. I am at the point where I will probably retain an attorney. Good luck to all.
  • oberndkoberndk Member Posts: 1
    I'm wondering if someone can tell me if they know the answer to this. I've had a problem with the CD player in my car for a couple years. It started about a year or so after I purchased my 2002 Maxima. It never was a priority to me - although I did mention it to the dealer service when I had the car in for some routine work.

    To make a long story short - nothing was ever done about it and the problem still exists.

    However, purely by coincidence I discovered today that there is a Nissan TSB (Service Bulletin) that describes the exact problem I'm seeing and provides the solution (ordering a new Audio unit, etc).

    I'm wondering if the fact that there is a TSB for an acknowleged problem means that it will be fixed at no charge if I take the car to the dealer (even though it is beyond its 3yr / 36000 coverage).

    Wondering if anyone has any experience with TSBs and how dealers react to them.

    Thanks!
  • phopho Member Posts: 13
    I replaced my cd player last year at no charge. That was a known problem on Max. Make sure to tell the dealer there was a TSB on that problem.
  • fcostellofcostello Member Posts: 3
    I have an 01 Max SE, with 90K. Dealer just informed me that I need a Catalytic Converter ($800). Will talk to my mechanic first. But besides that Back brakes @ dealer ($400) rip off - Front brakes by the mechanic on the corner ($100) back in 02.
  • poodog13poodog13 Member Posts: 320
    I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima that was purchased in summer of 02 (first 03 sold in the city actually). Since the car's factory warranty was only 3yr/36k, I am no longer under warranty protection and did not buy an extended warranty. Increased fuel costs combined with an upcoming transition into a sales role has made me consider trading in for something with better gas mileage (getting between 15.5-17.5 MPG depending on season - mostly city/suburban driving). However, the fact that I've already seen most of the depreciation on the car has made me hesitant to dump it since years 3-5 tend to be where most of the value is found in a vehicle (up front depreciation has already rolled off, residual depreciation per year reduced significantly going forward). So the $64k question is how reliable can I expect the car to be in the next 2-3 years? If I keep a car that will start to eat up repairs, I lose, but if I trade in what would have been a highly reliable car and start all over, I also lose.

    Any thoughts? Thanks.
  • rick70rick70 Member Posts: 1
    my nissan will surge while holding the gas to the floor rpm goes up then down then will go away and run fine for 2 or 3 mins then statrs surging again any ideas??
  • abhaabha Member Posts: 1
    Hi!

    I have a 1991 Maxima with auto transmission and it was working fine, I noticed that it's transmission fluid level has increased, initially I removed some of it and brought it to level by thinking that mechanic has made a mistake, then next day it was again high, then I noticed that it was probably a seal leakage and coolant was mixing with transmission fluid. In between that I noticed that gears have started slipping too. But they work, it only happens when fluid/transmission gets warmer. I have stopped using the vehicle.

    Can any one give me an idea what would be the cost of fixing that leakage, as one mechanic told me it will be around $1500-2000. So I have not dared to go to another one so far.

    Some one on the forum told me that I can import a used transmission from Japan and the whole cost would be less than $1000 including labor etc. But I have yet to get the name of the company which imports parts.

    Any other ideas?

    Thanks.
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    Did your coolant level go down? I am not a mechanic, but I doubt that it's possible for coolant to get into your transmission. Also, I think it's easier to find a used low-mileage transmission at a junk yard, than to have one shipped from Japan. There's a web site, car-parts.com, that gives you a way to search a lot of junk yards' inventory. Good luck and let us know how it turns out!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah it can. Your automatic trans is cooled by your car's radiator, which has a separate tank for recirculating a/t fluid around the radiator. If the wall between the two tanks leaks, then you have this problem.

    Anyway, have the radiator tested by all means or the problem will re-occur.
  • luvmymaxieluvmymaxie Member Posts: 16
    Did you get your brake rotors checked for the shimmy? The brake rotors seem to go bad fast on these cars. They need recalls for the rotors, the struts and transmission!
  • loupostloupost Member Posts: 1
    PURCHASED AN 05 MAXIMA TWO MONTHS AGO. DRIVING AROUND TOWN THE TRANS SHIFTING IS WAY TOO EXCESSIVE. TURNING A CORNER AT MODERATE SPEED IT PICKS A GEAR TOO LOW THEN A SECOND LATER IT UPSHIFTS AND THEN AGAIN ALL WITHIN 20-30 YARDS. THE SHIFTS ARE NOT SMOOTH AT ALL,THE TRANS IS ALWAYS LOOKING FOR A DOWN SHIFT WHEN THE ENGINE TORQUE WILL PULL THE CAR WITHOUT ONE. HAS ANY MAXIMA OWNER HAD THIS PROBLEM .
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Try posting with your CAPS LOCK OFF. Most members of online forums ignore posts with CAPS LOCKS as it is interpreted as "shouting" and is also very hard for most people to read.

    thank you

    MrShiftright
    Host
  • reginasreginas Member Posts: 1
    I just had my battery replaced and now my car won't start. What did you learn about this?
  • roar1roar1 Member Posts: 193
    I'm having the same problem on a '00 Max. ( new starter ). I'm going to replace the ignition sw. relay and the starter relay. ( ~ $80 total ). I'm also going to carry my spare key because it could possibly be a bad chip in the key. Who knows!!!

    My nightmare scenario is that the car won't start, I have it towed to the dealer ,and the #@%& thing starts and I'm back to square one. Don't you just love intermittent starting problems! :mad:
  • 03maxima03maxima Member Posts: 1
    I have 2003 Maxima with 64,000 miles. It started, ran rough, sounded like it was knocking,quite and would not start again. Could it be the timing chain/belt or something else?

    Thanks
  • jakebjakeb Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Maxima with more miles than I care to count. About a week ago she started stalling at low speeds and red lights. The headlights and inner lights were also dim. I thought it might be gas because I had the problem once before , switched gas and it ran fine. This time however I switched the gas , and had the battery changed. The battery took care of the dimnes however she still "sputters" at red lights and feels like she wants to stall ... also the fuel millage from the last fill up is way worse than normal ... any suggestions ?
  • mastjmastj Member Posts: 14
    I agree with you on overall Nissan quality. This is my first and last Nissan. Nice styling on the Maxima, but performance, quietness and drivetrain are basically mediocre. Nothing impressive. I have an 05 SE that has 15,000 miles on it. Has some intermitent starting problem that dealership can't replicate, paint chipping problem on rocker panel and noise in front suspension now. Fortunately I haven't had the shimmy's - yet.

    Transmission is harsh, torque at low rpms is horrible. Gas mileage isn't any better that the GM 3800 supercharged w/ 4 speed transmission.

    Overall confused as to why I spent $30k for this car???
  • mastjmastj Member Posts: 14
    Ditto here on the tranny - From what I can tell, you will just have to get used to it.... or sell the car!

    Torque steer is absolutely terrible, compared to my 1998 Regal GS - which has more torque, ironically. With the Regal, you can stomp on it in and it doesn't pull - period. Basically, I think that you will learn not to bother pushing the car... that is the only way I've figured out to avoid the steering wheel from jerking around.
  • aikido2aikido2 Member Posts: 5
    Any advice on how to reset it?
    Already been to the dealer, and of course, I was ripped off.
    They fixed the problem all of about 20 minutes, and then the light was back on.
    Any advice?
    aikido2
  • nberzatinberzati Member Posts: 6
    I also have a 2001 Maxima SE and I think $800 is ridiculous for a catalytic converter. You can probably get the work done by a non-dealer garage for $300, maybe less.

    I went to the dealer for my brakes and they wanted $800. I went to a place I've used before and I ended up paying $325. Big difference.
  • nberzatinberzati Member Posts: 6
    I've got a 2001 Maxima with similar problems. I have an intermittent no start. It cranks, but won't turnover. It usually takes 2 - 3 times to finally get it started. I've taken it to 3 different dealers 4 different times, but they can't duplicate the problem because it's intermittent. :confuse: My only option is to tolerate it until a code comes up.

    Bottom line: intermittent starter/ignition problems suck. They can NEVER get the problem to duplicate, but it always does it when you're driving it. I swear, some cars are just possessed. ;)
  • silver4silver4 Member Posts: 1
    I have had the same problem. I own a 99 Maxima with about 80K and when going at low speeds or stop signs and stop lights the KPM will go crazy and will jump up. The car has stalled on multiply occasions and I have brought it in to the dealer a handful times. They would always reset the KPM and that never worked. Finally in July they did something that seemed to work however now only 3 months later it is acting up again. ...I have no idea whats wrong but hopefully someone can help
  • messjenmessjen Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2001 Maxima. The intermittent starting problem occurred this morning. I took my vehicle to my neighborhood automotive service center. They did a diagnostics test and the following codes generated: P0420 Two way catalyst system and P0158 H02S Bank 2 Sensor 2. They recommended I go to my dealer to replace the sensors at about $161 a piece (3) and/or repair the catalytic converter. I am not an expert at cars (I'm a gal), but I find it nearly impossible that this qualifies as "normal" wear and tear on a car. My agent also informed me that one of our local dealers (not the one where I purchased my car) has seen this problem so often, Nissan issued a "bulletin" concerning the exact codes and how to re-set the computer. Hope the codes help. Good luck !
  • mraymusmraymus Member Posts: 3
    I've got a '95 Nissan Maxima that appears to run great except when I accelerate. When I accelerate it starts to vibrate, almost seemingly as fast as some mechanism in the motor. I've had the wheels aligned and the tires balanced. We just replaced all the shocks. It has a new transmission (earlier this year) and the guy who relaced my shocks said he wasn't sure what it was, but they did notice that the boot for the motormount was torn and they want to replace that. He admitted he didn't know if that would resolve it or not, but he still wants to do it to eliminate that possibility. $300 for an "I think it will fix it." I'm not going to have any other choice unless someone out here has an idea.

    The mechanic also said that when I push on the gas in Park, the motor seems to lift up a little bit. Would that cause vibration and would it be resolved with a new motor mount boot?

    Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions.

    Matt
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Did this vibration happen right after the news trans was put in?
  • cpfishercpfisher Member Posts: 1
    I have a 01 Maxima which had the "rear" O2 sensor replaced (SES on) at approximately 65,000 miles after the SES had been intermittent for a couple of months. Now at 86,000 the car would not run more than 25 mph. Dealer found the intake, throttle body, etc almost completely choked off with carbon. Had it cleaned, new PVC valve and minor parts and gaskets. 50 miles later SES on again. Anyone else had a Maxima to "carbon up" and what did it take to correct.
  • mraymusmraymus Member Posts: 3
    Honestly, I can't remember. There were a number of front end issues I was having with it during and after the transmission problem. Before I got the front end stuff fixed and the shocks and struts replaced, it was all a jumble of issues. Now that I've taken care of doing that, this one last thing (that and a paint job) stands out as an issue.

    I did get the job done at MAACO (before I hear any grumbles, I was stuck in LA and I didn't really have a choice. I had to get it fixed) and they have a warranty on it. Maybe I'll drop by there this week and have them do a once over for me before I do the boot thing.

    So, are you leaning more towards transmission rather than motor mount boot?

    Matt
  • hghataphghatap Member Posts: 1
    My 1987 Nissan Maxima didn;t start and I took it to Pepboys. They say Battery, Alternator, Spark Plug and starting System are all OK.

    But, when I turn on Ignition, the Alarm System is getting activated and because of that the CAR won't start (as ignition and Alarm cannot start at same time.) Pepboys told me to take it to Nissan Dealer. And Dealer told me that he will charge $110 just for diagnosis. I don't know how much it will cost to repair as the car is worth only $1000 per KBB. Please help. Any input would be appreciated.

    - Harshavardhan SG
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you know there are certain procedures regarding the re-install of the automatic transmission that could affect the harmonic balance of the drivetrain, yes, definitely.
  • mraymusmraymus Member Posts: 3
    So, do you think that if I took it back to MAACO and it's a transmission problem that they'll admit it or try to point the blame somewhere else?
  • roar1roar1 Member Posts: 193
    You were not very specific about your starting problems.Perhaps you could expound on this. Also, the codes that were kicked-out usually involve parts that would normally affect performance and fuel economy. I would be very surprised if the catalytic converter or the O2 sensors would create a no start situation.

    Actually, unfortunately, the following are real problems for the 5th gen. Max....... ignition coils, O2 sensors,
    MAF ( Mass Airflow ) sensor,and cam and crank angle sensors (TSB).
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well it's not an easy problem to just "see". You could have them check for something loose but if they put a driveshaft or flywheel in wrong well there you go but how can you tell? These parts should be carefully marked for position before they are re-installed. Drivetrain balance is very important.
  • scott45scott45 Member Posts: 1
    My '92 Maxima GXE has been bulletproof for 190,000 miles.
    Original tranny,A/C,exhaust,fuel pump,starter,hoses etc., though i did replace radiator, belts(they were orig), a ball joint and finally the alternator. Has never failed to run perfectly, uses not a drop of oil and gets 27mpg on hwy. Original pearl paint looks showroom new. It's worth way more than i could ever sell it for so i'll keep it. But as you know, at this point a few niggling issues occur like slow windows, sticky locks, weak hood struts, worn suspension parts, etc.

    Here's my questions, if anyone out there can comment or help me out....
    1)Suspension! Rear struts are original and seem fine. Front struts have 95,000 miles on them but car doesn't porpoise or rebound when you do the old "push down on the fender" test. I believe they're fine. I replaced one ball joint a few years ago. I think perhaps that my strut mounts are bad. Why? A few mech's have suggested the issue and the car thumps and knocks alot over small bumps/irregularities at low speeds. It's obnoxious! Is this a likelihood?
    2) Transmission engagement! My tranny is orig' and upshifts and downshifts fine. I've had the fluid changed once. If you slowly shift the auto trans into drive, it fails to engage until you tap on the top of the shifter, even if you do it lightly! If you shift down from park to drive firmly and quickly, it immed. goes in to drive. The tranny DOES NOT slip, and all downshifts, passing gears, etc. work fine, as does the adjustable transmission system.
    I've heard this is a common issue on these cars and all it needs is a small adjustment, or a small part changed. Any clue, anyone?
  • dickldickl Member Posts: 2
    Hello.
    Like the previous message, my Max was stalling after 10 minutes of drive time. I then had to wait 60 seconds or so, re-start and then all was fine.
    Now the car will 'die' without any warning within the first 10-15 minutes of driving. This can 2-3 times, then the car runs fine. But, if parked for 1-2 hours, the same thing happens again.
    My mechanic cant seem to locate the problem.
    Any suggestions??
    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You can't really test struts that way, by pushing down on the car. At 95K they are certainly tired but you might not notice HOW tired until you replace them---then you'll notice a difference. But your old ones might still function okay, just not anywhere near top performance anymore.
  • pqkillerpqkiller Member Posts: 3
    hi, i recently bought a 1993 maxima with 270000 on the clock and just the other night i turned the car off with the climate control still on (which i have done hundreds of times with no adverse effects). When i started the car the next morning, the blower was still on but the climate control was not and now (short of removing fuses) i cannot get the blower to stop blowing. Does anybody know where the relay for the blower motor is because i think it might be stuck on. Also has anyone else had similar problems because all the air con specialists i have taken it to have just given me funny looks and refused to even bother. THanks.
  • pqkillerpqkiller Member Posts: 3
    I also own a 93 maxima and my rear brakes make all kinds of noises from loud clicks that sound like wheel bearing problems to high pitched squealing as the car comes to rest. A mechanic that i trust informed me that its because around that year, brake pad manufacturers moved from the asbestos pads to a new compound which, on poorer quality pads make a lot of noise. The only way to eliminate that is to purchase better quality pads than what was on the car originally.
  • pqkillerpqkiller Member Posts: 3
    Maximas have a safety feature on them that is supposed to prevent you from bumping the shifter out of neutral and into drive by accident. Try putting it into 2nd gear and then up into drive as that is how the safey feature is designed.
  • dickldickl Member Posts: 2
    Hello.
    my Max stalls witiin 10-15 of starting--with no Warning!! I then wait 60 seconds or so, re-start and then all was fine.
    This can happen 2-3 times, then the car runs fine. But, if parked for 1-2 hours, the same thing happens again.
    My mechanic cant seem to locate the problem.
    I love this car and would hate to say goodbye to it.
    3.0L, 190HP, 160K miles.
    Any suggestions?
    Thanks.
  • wdare_2000wdare_2000 Member Posts: 1
    Had a similar problem with my 96 Maxima. It would stall while the engine was warming up and then run fine after warmed up. The check engine light came on when this problem started. Dealer said the failure indicator from the check engine did not indicate anything that would cause this problem. What was indicated was a bad "temp sensor". I had them replace that and no furthur problems. Must have been causing the stalling as far as I can see. If you want furthur information, I still have the receipt from the repairs.

    Regards,
    Bill
  • jgtmiljgtmil Member Posts: 19
    I am new to this forum so you may already have a solution to this problem. Above the intake manifold and below the plenum there is a rubber fuel line, in cold weather it hardens until the engine is warm softening it up to make a good seal. the best be is to replace it.
  • jgtmiljgtmil Member Posts: 19
    I have a 94 maxima w/231k, and when it is cold out the auto transmission will not shift from 2nd to 3rd for at least 1 min. after the trans seems to warm up it is ok despite the abrupt normal shifting. I have replaced the fluid with no improvement...any suggestions?
  • brianl1brianl1 Member Posts: 1
    You must be lucky where you live. My 2000 SE 3 litre with 87000 on the clock is in the garage today getting the sensors replaced. They tell me that they cannot tell which one or ones need to be replaced but the bill could be anywhere between €1200 for one sensor and €3500 for all four. I am a little bit devastated.
  • warrior_prwarrior_pr Member Posts: 28
    To be honest with you..... I am considering change my SL-05 for that situation.... I couldn't realized in my mind why a car like this ($$$) could work that way. I posted two messages before about that issue ( please see message # 2303 and 2632 with respective answers) . To add something and maybe to punish me I bought a Ford Freestyle with CVT .... That put my SL-05 at the end of my "Nice cars to drive" list. :surprise: :cry: :mad: :( :confuse:
  • lronhowardlronhoward Member Posts: 1
    I also have the catalytic converter issue with my '01 Maxima. I am at 109,000 but under 8 years. Does that still qualify? Seems like this is a problem that should warrant a recall.
  • kxdkxd Member Posts: 2
    Donnyeyes, were you able to solve your problem. I had just spent $450 at the dealer to get a new 02 sensor and reprogram the ECM on my 2000 I30 (same engine). 3 days after, I added chevron techroline additive and a day later, the SES light came back on. Took it to the dealer, same diagnosis, Catalytic convertor bank 1. Dealer wants $990. Please help. You think after a couple of tanks full of gas, the problem may resolve itself?
  • gtwgtw Member Posts: 46
    anyone know where the instructions are on how to replace a friggin headlight in a 2004 Max? It doesn't appear to be easy.
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