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A local repair shop is going to replace the cat. converter for $350 with a new OEM part. We're just going to cross our fingers and hope the part works well since it's a non-Nissan Part.
Have others experienced this?
Thanks in advance for your help.
But I would very much like to hear about the experiences of others!
Thanks
Tom
Also, torque steer is a real problem with this car. I come from a 1998 Regal GS (supercharged) that has more torque than the Max and it doesn't have torque steer problems like the Max.
Overall, the steering feels real "flimsey" and you never quite know what to expect.
Here I thought I was the only one that noticed the pulling problem.
Also, I'm getting a set of the SL 17" wheels and tires for winter - we'll see whether this helps the problem.
The dealership also told me that there has been quite a few owners with this problem.
Anyone know anything about this? Is there a fix for this problem? Has Nissan addressed this problem?
Thanks
It could be the O2 sensors. I had the same light come on in the dash; however, the car ran fine. I ended up having to get two of the four O2 sensors replaced
Dale K.
Mine is doing the exact same thing. I have an 01' Maxima SE. I first thought my Map light burnt out so I replaced it and it still didin't work. Checked the Fuse (10Amp) burnt out. Replaced it...immediately it burnt out. Although I was a bit concerned, it was cold and I slipped in a 15amp spare fuse for the time being and it worked fine. Until 3 weeks later when after a cold Ontario (Canada) night that morning my car was bone dead. Looked at my battery resevoir and saw there was no Electrolyte (battery Acid) showing at all so I thought my battery was fried due to the fact it was 5 years old and I let the levels drop to far (P.S : Always check your battery acid level every 3 years and fill with Diluted water if low...not to full though...don't want to dilute the acid). Anyway, bought a new battery (fully charged) and installed it myself...worked great except that Parking brake light/ABS light/ Battery Light all stayed on in the dash for a day or so. But the car started great. The next morning my car was dead again. It was at that time that I remembered the fuse issue I had three weeks earlier. I and my friend mechanic (1 hour away from me) via phone deducted that there was enough of a short in the circuit that runs interior/key hole on steering column light, Keyless remoe door locks and whatever else, it had enough of a draw that it drained the battery plus, blew 10 Amp fuses but not 15 amp fuses. Therefore it can't be a dead short between one of the switches, nor can it be a dead short of bare wires anywhere, and it isn't the alternator because the car runs fine after a boost from a previously dead battery. It must be either corrosion or extreme dampness somewhere on that circuit. All interior lights, the switches on each door jam that when the door opens turns the interior lights on , or the Keyless remote system circuit or any of the wiring that join all of these components.
I still am not knowing as I at this time have pulled the 15amp fuse and will see if my battery still drains dead or not. If the battery holds it charge for a few days, than it is definitely that circuit.
Can anyone add to this who have actually discovered the culprit?
P.S: don't get suckered into an AVR test as this will only tell you if the Alternator is doing it's job or not and we already determined it is from above.
Here are the instructions from 2004 Maxima Factory Service Manual:
1. Turn Low Beam On
2. Loosen the adjustment screw all the way
3. Adjust headlamp aim by tighting the adjustment screw.
A special screen should be used at which the headlamps should be aimed at the time of adjustment. The exact specifications are in the Factory Service Manual with pictures. Give me your email and I will send you the pages you need from the FSM in pdf format.
You should go back to the dealer and tell them that you will be calling Nissan headquarters for telling you this crap. Tell them to take out their FSM and turn to section K. Electrical and then to section LT. Lighting System and then find a section on "Aiming Adjustment"
If the light is on then there is definitely a code stored in the computer. The light will come on after two occurrences of a specific problem, usually sensor related, don't reset it, take the car to a place with a code reader and have them determine what the code is and then supposedly if it's some sensor then replace it and only then reset the computer. Did the dealer give you an idea what exactly was the engine light indicating. What was the code they got? I have a worse problem with my Maxima where I have the sysmptom(stalling) and no service engine soon light and of course the dealer can not determine the cause of the problem. If you are saying that you have the light on and the dealer still can't fix it then I completely lost my trust in dealers. This industry should be regulated better!!!
I don't have access to the full bulletin online but here is the summary. Hope this helps.
Make: NISSAN
Model: MAXIMA
Year: 2000
Type: ANY
Service Bulletin Number: NTB00008A
NHTSA Item Number: 610995
Summary Description:
SOME VEHICLE WITH VARIOUS VIN RANGES MAY EXHIBIT LOW / NO IDLE WHEN SHIFTING INTO D OR R RANGE AFTER COLD START. *TT
I re-read your OP. You said the dealer told you that reprogramming didn't need to be done? I would go back to the dealer and have them do the reprogramming specified for this TSB anyway. If it REALLY doesn't need it then the reprogramming won't hurt. But if they don't know what they're talking about then it just might do the trick.
Last week, in desperation, I took my car to a tire shop. He put it on the rack and said it was obvious I had a bad seal on the passenger side front end (not sure what part or joint). He instructed me to take it directly to a dealer for a warranty repair - which is what I did this morning. The dealer said that the tire guy (who didn't want any money for looking at the car) was pretty much smoking crack about the seal.
I'm going to write to Nissan - but at this point all I really want is someone to make my new car stop shaking when I'm on the freeway.
I got the car back today and the car feels very differently. The engine is irresponsive. Even when I floor it, the engine rev just increases gradually from 2000 rpm to 4000 rpm in couple seconds. The car used to rev really rapid from 2000 rpm to 6000rpm in 1 or 2 seconds resulting in a strong force pushing from the seat. Now the car accelerates so slow. I felt like I'm driving a 4 cyclinder car.
What could be wrong? Would it be that they removed the timing belt tensioner or timing chain during repair and they didn't set the right tension or engine timing correctly? I'm very frustrated now. I felt like I'm driving a different car. Any idea, anyone? Thanks!
Thanks
Has anyone given advice?
I went to the dealership again this afternoon and the owner of the dealership told me that one of the many owner with this problem traded his car because of this problem.
Thanks again, have a great Holiday season and a great New Year.
Wayne12
The mechanic we use, who is a magician with Japanese imports, knew right off it was a problem with the ignition coils. Since the problem was not serious at first, we put it off for a while. Eventually the problem got worse and gas mileage went down, so we had him replace the coils at 100k miles. Cost was about $670. Problem seems to be gone.
Any suggestions to the problem. One has been the fuel pump but if that is the case why would there be fumes?
Thanks for any thoughts.
I still can not believe that a dealership would not know how to aim headlights and start an urban legend that 'they can not be adjusted'. Owner was embarrassed over this and offered an apology.
Wonder if they will contact the other owners who need their lamps adjusted? Bet they don't.