Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I am an owner of a 2001 Nissan Maxima and it has been a dreadful experience. Twice in the past year the ECM and IAC valve went bad and the company is refusing to fix it under the warranty. I had paid for the repair last February and now I am facing the SAME exact problem and Nissan would not stand behind their product. What a shame. Nissan makes an inferior product and refuses to stand behind it.
Beware, you have been warned !!!!
But yes, in general, Honda service is much better.
The latest was with very little advance warning, the rear left caliper sarted squealing and then locked up. I had it towed to the dealer and had the left rear caliper replaced, both of the rear pads and rotors replaced and a couple of brake diagnoses and system diagnoses performed for a small fortune.
Owning this car is very frustrating - it's great when everything is working, but problems like these make me want to get just go buy a Honda.
Thanks,
Tom.
Gee, that's a pretty blanket statement based on one ownership experience.
My family is on it's third Nissan (03 Maxima, 05 Altima, and just got 06 Maxima last week) and we have been nothing but happy.
Has anyone that lives in Northern Orange County, Calif. ever had to replace their water pump. I've been quoted anywhere from $600 - $900 all from Nissan dealers. Can anyone recommend a good independant? I live in the 562 area code and work in Cypress. Also, has anyone ever purchased one of those service and repair manuals on CD from Ebay? They claim to be OEM, but who knows. Thanks
Thanks again
Tom.
I used a wetvac to remove whatever dust/dirt in the area and wiped it down with a damp cloth before installing new filters. Still can't understand why they didn't install the filters as the unit is far more dirty than it needed to be due to their "cheapness".
I have since bought a 2000 Olds Intrigue GLS to replace it. Why, you say am I nuts? Well the Max has one of the weakest torque v6 motors I've ever seen. It barely gets out of its own way below 2800 rpm. I've driven a manual since learning in 1977 and I've stalled this car more than any other. It has to be driven like a rev happy motorcycle motor to make any power, down in normal driving range you can be beat by your mom in her Buick LeSabre. Granted, once up on the cam it does run well, but the flimsy 5 speed and 3 grand RPM at 70 does not do well for MPG. The cruise control is jerky, either on or off. The Japanese cars I've driven all seem to smog up the windows and require the AC on to keep clear regardless if outside vent is on, the radio is crap but does play CD's well.
Anyway, the Olds has abundant torque from idle and 215 hp DOHC aluminum motor, uses regular gas and I'm getting 28-30 mpg on the highway, in more comfort and with a torque motor and automatic, its super good in traffic and around town. Has better crash ratings and stability control, etc.
Both are good cars, but for me I'm glad to be getting rid of the weak torque import that takes prem fuel. Anyone interested in a sand colored 2000 SE 5 speed and nearly all options with less than 50k miles? Its also a Texas car with no rust, but some paint imperfections from parking lots.
Dirk
LOL
- 4 months ago the check engine light came on (nothing new) but this time the car began to run rough
- also noticed a bit of a rattle noise when accelerating from 100 km/h +
- took it to my mechanic (non-dealer) & it read code P1320
- he started with the "most likely" problem and replaced the spark plugs
- two months later I was having the exact same problems
- back to my mechanic and it read codes P1320 & P0303
- after a lot of testing he narrowed the problem down to the ignition coil on #1 cylinder and replaced it
- last week it started to run really rough and just about died when I got it to my mechanic
- he tells me that the #2 piston has broken at the upper ring land and the piston and ring have damaged the cylinder walls & head
- he priced it out and it is cheaper to replace the engine rather than fix it
Now here I am facing a $4K repair bill or a great car with no engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
Help me please...... tre
Good luck, you'll need it.
D
D