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1. Close all doors
2. insert and remove key from ignition cylinder more then six times within 10 seconds.
3. insert key and turn to ACC position
4. push any button on remote controller once, the hazard lights will now flash, at this time the oldest id code is erased and new code is entered.
5. to program additional remotes, lock doors with lock/unlock switch on the driver side door and then push any button on the new remote. Skip this step if not programming additional remotes.
6. Open driver side door.
Can anybody confirm this?
Thanks
ANY ONE Take a shot at this? Thanks
Needless to say, the dealer picked me up from the side of the interstate, and towed the car to the Nissan dealership to be diagnosed. He suspects a camshaft sensor, which was a recall item on this model. However, the sensor was apparently replaced in '04 in response to the recall. The owner of the lot says that they're going to fix whatever the problem is -- it won't be on me. However, the sales contract states that I'm buying the car AS IS. I don't distrust them, but I could be exposed to getting screwed.
Please give me some feedback on this. I just bought a car that died within 2 hours of driving it off of the lot!!! Part of me says, "ditch it," but I really liked this car. Any ideas?
Thanks.
The check engine light was on after it died; it wasn't on until then. And I did check on Carfax, and it got a clean bill of health -- from my mechanic, too. One annoying thing is that Nissan doesn't report recalls to Carfax, so I didn't know that there are two recalls on this model: one with the camshaft position sensor, and one with an accelerator sensor. The symptoms of both of these recalls are consistent with what happened to me.
i own a 2000 maxima that has given me nothing but trouble. i have heard some owners with the same problem but no real solution. the car shakes when idling. no shaking is noticed at higher speeds; mostly just when you have your foot on the brake and are stopped. i have been to the nissan dealership 7 times. they have done these things which have fixed the problem for various amounts of time:
-checked all sensors
-replaced all ignition coils
-replaced all spark plugs
-replaced 2 fuel injectors
-replaced mass air flow sensor
-unwired and rewired the engine
This same problem has now come back to haunt me after i just replaced the compressor. If anyone can please help me with any advice i would greatly appreciate it. I have already spent a great deal of money and can't afford to fix the wrong thing anymore.
Thank you,
PoorCollegeStudent
To remove the alternator belt you first need to loosen up the bolt that holds the pulley - it can be done from top or bottom. The bolt may be stuck, so be careful to not strip the head. Once it's loose, you need to loosen the belt by turning the adjustment bolt that's seen at the top of the pulley.
To remove the power steering belt, you need to loosen the bracket on the power steering pump, but I've never done this, so can't be sure what's involved. It's done from the bottom.
Also, check out this page:
http://www.greghome.com/images/Maxima%20Pics/ShopManual/DriveBelts/Shop-DriveBel- ts.jpg
Hope this helps!
another note: service engine light comes on and off sparatically day to day, usually on when idling is roughest. The light then usually gets to a point where it stays on and then i take it to nissan where their computer feeds them a bunch of crap.
EGR VALVE:
i have been told, not by nissan, but by a friend that my egr valve needs to be replaced. whenever i turn my car off or am moving at slow speeds and stopping(-ex. fast food drive through) i get a series of wah wah wah wah wah noises, usually 5 in a row. i didn't think that this was related to the idle problem because this noise occurs when car is running smooth and when i'm having problems. perhaps i should start by getting these lines cleaned out?
thanks for responding to me.
The other belt MUST be done with that cover removed and with the front right jacked up and the wheel removed. For me (2000 Maxima), there was a bracket holding the pump tension screw which had a retaining screw on the side of it which had to be loosened first, This bracket had an L shaped hole in it (never seen anything like it before). It looked like the very long tension screw could be released easily from the bracket, but I could not get it to do that. It is also in a hard place to get to, but was much easier with a 12m socket, long extension, and one of those socket extensions that pivot up to 90 degrees (only a few degrees is needed) since you don't get a strait shot at it. Once I figured that out, it was a snap to get done.
I own a 2001 Maxima and I have a problem. My car seems to go fine but ABS-SLIP-TCS lights are always. Can someone please help me beacuse I don't want replace something and the problem still exists... I know this problem already posted but i don,t see no precise answer... I would rather know what it is before i bring it to the dealership and they take advantage of me.
Thank you
also - you should have the code pulled and run a search on yahoo - lots of info out there.
These are located on the center console above the stereo. I can't see the switches in dark now since they are not lighted up (no backlighting inside them). Now he is asking me to replace the panel which is all but crap. Can someone help as to where the problem could be. It used to work before and now both the panels are with no backlighting on the buttons. AC and all switches operate. I can see the ac/ watch display too but just the buttons are blind. I have tried the panel dimmer also but doesn't help. Please, anyone have an insight before I escalate the problem in dealership / BBB. Thanks!!!
Someone... please help !!.
Thanks very much, marcusd1@yahoo.com
Has anyone ever seen this before? If so, is it likely just a bad gas cap or do I need to find this canister vent control valve?
Hayne's manual says the canister is located behind the gas tank. Is the vent control valve part of the canister?
Any help would be appreciated!
So, as you can see, you need to take the car to a shop and inspect the EVAP system, you'll be lucky if it's just some valve or hose, the worst case is the canister itself, which costs close to $400 from the dealer. I can't list the procedure to verify the exact defective component here, it's too long. Send me email to my user name on this forum @yahoo.com and I will send you the relevant section from Nissan service manual.
Anyone experience this problem I need to make a decision on what I should do next.
They charge $90 per hour for labor plus retail price for any part plus tax and this only applies if they know what the issue is, in many cases they will charge you for a computerized diagnostic separately without any guarantee of fixing the issue. I wouldn't take the car with this issue to a dealer, a private shop should fix it for less.
PS I tested the fuel temperature sensor, it checked out ok measuring 2,300 Ohm at 20 degrees C.
I thank you all kindly!