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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tgregg91tgregg91 Member Posts: 2
    i just bought a remote 4 my factory alarm and followed the instructions to program it,but the horn doesn't blow when i arm the remote. could some1 tell me what i could do to fix this problem. by the way,my horn does work.
  • jgbadjgbad Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 2001 MAXIMA THAT IDLES ERRATICALLY BETWEEN 1000 AND 2500 RPM. THE ISCV HAS BEEN REPLACED WITH NO IMPROVEMENT. WHAT TO DO?
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    Start with something simple and cost affective - clean your throttle body, check your air filter and run a tank with expensive fuel system cleaner, fill up with 93 octane. If it doesn't help then there may be many reasons. Does your car idle like that all the time or only when you start it in the morning? If you hold down gas pedal until the car warms up, does the problem go away or continues throughout the day?
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    well, the remote can be set to silent or non-silent mode, on the back of it, there are instructions to switch betwene the two modes. You may be on the silent mode now, I think you need to press and hold both lock and unlock buttons simoltaneously and then your sidemarkers will flash indicating a successful switch. Oterwise there is a procedure to prtogram a new remote. Here, this is straight from the manual:
    1. Close all doors
    2. insert and remove key from ignition cylinder more then six times within 10 seconds.
    3. insert key and turn to ACC position
    4. push any button on remote controller once, the hazard lights will now flash, at this time the oldest id code is erased and new code is entered.
    5. to program additional remotes, lock doors with lock/unlock switch on the driver side door and then push any button on the new remote. Skip this step if not programming additional remotes.
    6. Open driver side door.
  • da763da763 Member Posts: 14
    I have a 2000 Maxima SE. Recently I had to have the Idle Air Control Valve replaced. Now, the Mass Airflow Sensor has gone bad. The car has been in the shop for a week and only now has the dealer been able to diagnose this problem. I remember reading that the Mass Airflow Sensor was covered under the emissions system warranty, which I believe is 8 years/80,000 miles for California cars.

    Can anybody confirm this?

    Thanks
  • unpdblunpdbl Member Posts: 7
    I purchased a serpentine belt and a power steering belt. I was able to replace the serpentine belt but am not sure how to take tension off of the power steering belt. Anybody know? I don't have a shop manual yet.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    8 year/80K warranty is only for catalyst and ECU (computer), not the MAF. You can download warranty information booklet from www.nissantechinfo.com
  • warrior_prwarrior_pr Member Posts: 28
    Recently I was reading that Nissan will put CVT (Continuous variable transmission) in 2007 Maxima. Finally abrupt transmissions shifts are going to be past news. That is my mayor and continuously complains in my 2005 SL Maxima. The second one is the road noise.... too loud...... I believe they think I will try new luck with the 2007 ones. NO WAY .... Nissan doesn't care about customers. No solution for current customers... no more money on Nissan...
  • bulbullbulbull Member Posts: 4
    have 1997 Nissan Maxima GLE. Failed inspection because the rear right brake had no pressure. I pulled out the the caliber and tried to turn it in. It was impossible. I used the proper tools. But it would not budge. Help. I have the caliber out and in a vise. I cut the rubber seal around the piston. I am wondering how to get it out.?
    ANY ONE Take a shot at this? Thanks
  • rclubrclub Member Posts: 2
    Got a 2000 GLE with 65k. Last year I noticed an awful trembling and noise coming from the brakes the brake pads were completely worn off, took it into the dealer and had the rear pads and rotors changed on the brakes (700 bucks). Not more than 3 months later the same thing happened, unfortunately I had moved at this point and was not able to take it back to the same place so I took it into Midas. They noticed that again my rear pads were completely worn and that the rotors were destroyed. They also noticed that the hand brake was getting stuck so they loosened that and replaced the rotors/pads (only 300 bucks). Since then I have not been using the hand brake at all to avoid the same problem. On my drive to the airport last week I noticed again the same problem and when I parked there was a pretty strong burning smell coming from the back wheels again. Has anyone else encountered a similar problem?
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    I have a 2000 GLE and recently changed rear pads and front pads and resurfaced front rotors. The front rotors were pretty grooved after only around 12K miles since new and pads were only half gone but sqeeling like hell. Now I do hear unpleasent noise when breaking but rotors and pads look fine so far. Something is wrong, it sounds like may be somethig is catching and making a metalic noise. Let's keep this thread going if anyone has encountered this and fixed it or knows of any common 2K Maxima issue, which is causing these break problems.
  • carsrmecarsrme Member Posts: 3
    oh i have done that plently of times with my fathers car which is a 1995 Nissan Maxima and there isnt any problems noticed it still runs and starts buitifully. if your still worried send it to the shop that will check it for you
  • dahuberdahuber Member Posts: 53
    The power steering belt has a lockbolt and adjuster below the pulley. You also have to loosen the power steering pump-bolt below is 14mm and you have to get to it with extensions and universal sockets.
  • scrotboyscrotboy Member Posts: 2
    Hey, y'all. I just bought a '02 SE 6-speed with 68,000 miles on it. As I was entering the interstate to drive home, I accelerated into the passing lane, and the engine completely stalled out. I fought through interstate traffic to the shoulder, where the car would not restart. It would idle for about 2 secounds, then the rpm would bounce down to complete stall.

    Needless to say, the dealer picked me up from the side of the interstate, and towed the car to the Nissan dealership to be diagnosed. He suspects a camshaft sensor, which was a recall item on this model. However, the sensor was apparently replaced in '04 in response to the recall. The owner of the lot says that they're going to fix whatever the problem is -- it won't be on me. However, the sales contract states that I'm buying the car AS IS. I don't distrust them, but I could be exposed to getting screwed.

    Please give me some feedback on this. I just bought a car that died within 2 hours of driving it off of the lot!!! Part of me says, "ditch it," but I really liked this car. Any ideas?

    Thanks.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    Is Service Engine Soon light on? If so then it may help you diagnose by scanning the computer with a scan tool, most shops have one. I wouldn't ditch the car unless you find out what the problem is and who pays to fix it. No matter what the contract says, you probably have a case against the lot where you got it and they should be willing to fix it at no charge. Checked it with Carfax?? Make sure it's not a lemon or flooded or after accident.
  • scrotboyscrotboy Member Posts: 2
    The dealer brought a scanner when he picked me up on the side of the road. It didn't indicate any problems at all.

    The check engine light was on after it died; it wasn't on until then. And I did check on Carfax, and it got a clean bill of health -- from my mechanic, too. One annoying thing is that Nissan doesn't report recalls to Carfax, so I didn't know that there are two recalls on this model: one with the camshaft position sensor, and one with an accelerator sensor. The symptoms of both of these recalls are consistent with what happened to me.
  • sluggerslugger Member Posts: 2
    serpitine belts are bad. What do you loosen up to take them off and do you take them off from underneath or from top of car. Don't look like any room to take off.
  • pleasehelpme1pleasehelpme1 Member Posts: 3
    hello all,
    i own a 2000 maxima that has given me nothing but trouble. i have heard some owners with the same problem but no real solution. the car shakes when idling. no shaking is noticed at higher speeds; mostly just when you have your foot on the brake and are stopped. i have been to the nissan dealership 7 times. they have done these things which have fixed the problem for various amounts of time:
    -checked all sensors
    -replaced all ignition coils
    -replaced all spark plugs
    -replaced 2 fuel injectors
    -replaced mass air flow sensor
    -unwired and rewired the engine

    This same problem has now come back to haunt me after i just replaced the compressor. If anyone can please help me with any advice i would greatly appreciate it. I have already spent a great deal of money and can't afford to fix the wrong thing anymore.

    Thank you,
    PoorCollegeStudent
  • sluggerslugger Member Posts: 2
    just wondering if anyone can answer my question about removing serpitine belts? #3254
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    As i suggested to many other Maxima owners - EGR Valve tubes and passages clog up with time and cause idling issues, pinging and so forth. Clean out your EGR Valve passages.
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    There is a plastic cover held by 2 bolts and 2 plastic rivets behind the right front wheel, when removed it gives you easier access to the belts.

    To remove the alternator belt you first need to loosen up the bolt that holds the pulley - it can be done from top or bottom. The bolt may be stuck, so be careful to not strip the head. Once it's loose, you need to loosen the belt by turning the adjustment bolt that's seen at the top of the pulley.

    To remove the power steering belt, you need to loosen the bracket on the power steering pump, but I've never done this, so can't be sure what's involved. It's done from the bottom.

    Also, check out this page:

    http://www.greghome.com/images/Maxima%20Pics/ShopManual/DriveBelts/Shop-DriveBel- ts.jpg

    Hope this helps!
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    what is "unwired and rewired the engine"? What exactly did they do?
  • pleasehelpme1pleasehelpme1 Member Posts: 3
    Sorry for lack of details on this one. They basically told me that they disconnected many of the wires(to the engine/sensors) and reconnected them and the problem was magically fixed. they claimed that no wiring was actually switched around.this fix lasted for a month or so.?!?!?!?

    another note: service engine light comes on and off sparatically day to day, usually on when idling is roughest. The light then usually gets to a point where it stays on and then i take it to nissan where their computer feeds them a bunch of crap.

    EGR VALVE:
    i have been told, not by nissan, but by a friend that my egr valve needs to be replaced. whenever i turn my car off or am moving at slow speeds and stopping(-ex. fast food drive through) i get a series of wah wah wah wah wah noises, usually 5 in a row. i didn't think that this was related to the idle problem because this noise occurs when car is running smooth and when i'm having problems. perhaps i should start by getting these lines cleaned out?

    thanks for responding to me.
  • ecd1974ecd1974 Member Posts: 5
    I was a bit dismayed to see some rust on the rear door jambs just above the plastic trim that runs along the wheelbase of the car. I believe that dirt is coming in through a gap between the door and the plastic trim (kicked up by the tires at high speed), sandblasting the paint in that area. Both the driver's and passenger's side have these rust spots that are about the size of a pea. I have brought the car to the dealership - they took pictures and sent them to Nissan for evaluation. I am currently waiting for a response about the problem. To me, this is clearly a manufacturing defect - it's the same on both sides. If anyone has heard of this on other Maximas or has any suggestions - especially dealing with the dealership/Nissan, I'd be interested.
  • marlon_s1marlon_s1 Member Posts: 1
    Well I own an I30 which is basically the same thing. i experienced the same problem you did and found information online that hinted towards blocked Airflow. This is y the dealer sold u a new air flow meter(Kinda Expensive). I also looked into buying one of these, but my very honest mechanic(kinda rare) advised me not to because air flow meters rarely go bad. So I continued my research and came across this http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/517.... a detailed aricle on how to clean ur throtle body. My car feels like it did when I bought it. No more shaking (engine knocking) or poor acceleration... I've been doing this to my car every six months for about a year and half now as part of my full tune up and have since experienced no similar problems.... i would recomend u change the air filter if u do decide to try this and clean out the air box.
  • louie4louie4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Maxima with @ 37,000 miles on it & just recently noticed a "clunking" noise coming from the rear (or so it sounds) - doesn't happen but once in awhile and seems to only happen when I'm doing 70 & then slow down to either exit or turn to the right - only seems to do it when I'm veering off to the right & again doesn't happen but once in a while. I asked the Nissan service manager & of course they have to hear it to be able to determine what it is - he doesn't have a clue. Any help?????? :confuse:
  • cal4591cal4591 Member Posts: 1
    I get the rough idling when my traction control lights on the dashboard are lit. The dealer has reset the computer, at a cost of $200 but. of course, they light up every so often anyway - accompanied by the rough idle/car shaking. The lights stay on for a while then turn off for a while. So your problem may be related to your car computer.
  • unpdblunpdbl Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the advice re: the power steering belt replacemant. I saw the two 12mm bolts on the adjuster. I think I need an offset wrench for the one thats accessable from up top,I did see the 12mm adjuster below. However I did not see the 14mm bolt; is that facing down or off to the side?
  • gs1100gs1100 Member Posts: 1
    Sounds crazy, but try draining and putting in new transmission fluid, if automatic. It could be the torque converter sensing some contaminates and shutting down causing a stall. Worked for me.
  • frumosulefrumosule Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced the belts in my 2000 Maxima. The first belt was exactly as stated above and was much easier when the plastic cover behind the wheel was removed.

    The other belt MUST be done with that cover removed and with the front right jacked up and the wheel removed. For me (2000 Maxima), there was a bracket holding the pump tension screw which had a retaining screw on the side of it which had to be loosened first, This bracket had an L shaped hole in it (never seen anything like it before). It looked like the very long tension screw could be released easily from the bracket, but I could not get it to do that. It is also in a hard place to get to, but was much easier with a 12m socket, long extension, and one of those socket extensions that pivot up to 90 degrees (only a few degrees is needed) since you don't get a strait shot at it. Once I figured that out, it was a snap to get done.
  • dahuberdahuber Member Posts: 53
    I assume that your 2000 Maxima is the same as my 2001 on this. The 14mm bolt faces the driver side at the bottom of the pump. I reached with a long extension across, but you could rig up extensions with a universal socket, too.
  • pleasehelpme1pleasehelpme1 Member Posts: 3
    thanks for the suggestion. i am going to try that when i get a spare moment. i was wondering if your service engine light ever came on during your problems? mine has remained on for the past week.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    if your SES light is on then you should scan the computer and identify the error code. Autozone store will give you a free scan - it's their policy. Once you get the code, just look it up online and then you'll be on the right track. Your issue can be caused by many things, the SES light is supposed to suggest where to look although cleaning throttle body is always a good idea of course.
  • vince9vince9 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I own a 2001 Maxima and I have a problem. My car seems to go fine but ABS-SLIP-TCS lights are always. Can someone please help me beacuse I don't want replace something and the problem still exists... I know this problem already posted but i don,t see no precise answer... I would rather know what it is before i bring it to the dealership and they take advantage of me.
    Thank you
  • tdk930tdk930 Member Posts: 4
    i had this problem on my 2000 maxima. you did not say how many miles are on your car. My fix was to replace the plugs and coils. If you have 80K+ or more miles, replace the plugs first and see if the problem goes away. if not, replace the coils.

    also - you should have the code pulled and run a search on yahoo - lots of info out there.
  • mdogramdogra Member Posts: 19
    I have 1996 Maxima. My stereo was dead for which the dealership messed with the wiring once and later shipped out my stereo for Repair. The stereo has been replaced. During all this process they messed up the backlighting on the switches/buttons on my Climate Control (ac) panel as well as back lighting on the emergency switch + rear de-fogger switch (next to the watch). :cry:
    These are located on the center console above the stereo. I can't see the switches in dark now since they are not lighted up (no backlighting inside them). Now he is asking me to replace the panel which is all but crap. Can someone help as to where the problem could be. It used to work before and now both the panels are with no backlighting on the buttons. AC and all switches operate. I can see the ac/ watch display too but just the buttons are blind. I have tried the panel dimmer also but doesn't help. Please, anyone have an insight before I escalate the problem in dealership / BBB. Thanks!!! :cry:
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    agreed with tdk930, pull any error codes first - go to autozone store and have them read your computer with a scan tool for free, it's theor policy, then look up the codes online and what can possibly cause those codes to come up. I wouldn't replace any parts before that
  • mdogramdogra Member Posts: 19
    Message #3273: 96 Maxima GLE, Dealership messed up my panel.. Help !

    Someone... please help !!.
  • marcusd1marcusd1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello... I have 91 Maxima GXE that is overheating because the radiator fan does not come on when driving around town; both fans will come on if I turn the AC on...and then coolant temperature comes down to normal. The Dasboard Temp. Guage is functioning properly. Suggestions on what the problem is and/or checks I can do to find the problem?
    Thanks very much, marcusd1@yahoo.com
  • spikeia89spikeia89 Member Posts: 2
    I have recently failed a MD emissions test on my 98 Max with ~114K miles on it. They just connect to the ODBII and look for certain codes. I had 2 codes P0440 (EVAP system leak) and P1448 (EVAP canister vent control valve open) according to the Hayne's manual. Several people have told me that this is usually a loose gas cap. I cleared the codes started/stopped the car 5 times in a matter of 10 minutes. Used the ODB reader again and it was clean. I operated the car normally for a couple of weeks and then took the reading again. Same codes were back.

    Has anyone ever seen this before? If so, is it likely just a bad gas cap or do I need to find this canister vent control valve?

    Hayne's manual says the canister is located behind the gas tank. Is the vent control valve part of the canister?

    Any help would be appreciated!
  • snowman15snowman15 Member Posts: 1
    I had my 2004 Max SE in the shop yesterday for this, as well as the lumbar recall. They said it was air in the coolant line which they blead. This removed the air which should remove the noise. I will keep you posted if it comes back but I did not hear it yesterday or this morning. The right front suspension component was not properly addressed as I heard the same loose sounding clunk on the compression and recoiling of the wheel this AM.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    EVAP canister is a canister that looks like a bucket and it's located on one side of the gas tank when you look at your undercarriage. It sits on the opposite side of the muffler and on the same side as the gas cap. P0440 may be caused by defective gas cap but when you get both P0440 and P1448 then the cause is one of the following: EVAP canister vent control valve, EVAP control system pressure sensor and circuit, Blocked rubber tube to EVAP canister vent control valve, Water separator, EVAP canister is saturated with water, Vacuum cut valve.

    So, as you can see, you need to take the car to a shop and inspect the EVAP system, you'll be lucky if it's just some valve or hose, the worst case is the canister itself, which costs close to $400 from the dealer. I can't list the procedure to verify the exact defective component here, it's too long. Send me email to my user name on this forum @yahoo.com and I will send you the relevant section from Nissan service manual.
  • kennyg8kennyg8 Member Posts: 225
    I had the same problem two years ago with my 97 GLE. I took it to the dealer, and the defective parts and hoses were replaced at a cost of approx. $500. Since I bought my three Maximas (third, fourth and fifth gens) from the same dealer, I was given a 25% discount on the service. If you look at Nissan's service bulletin, this is a known defect that affected many 4th gens. However, since my car was out of warranty when it happened, I had to pay for the repair, albeit at a discount.
  • mpd113mpd113 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Maxima that allegedly according to the dealer states that even though I had an oil change as recently as 2000 miles ago the car died on me and they are saying the oil was scalded and burnt and 2 quarts down - there is only 29000 miles on this car and hadnt had any warning sign or anything - although prior to engine dying there was a rattle noise coming from the engine - any ideas what the issue is here - now NMAC is hassling me over receipts from service station stating they arent valid and warranty may not cover it
  • 04mxasl04mxasl Member Posts: 3
    My car has 42,000 miles and after my battery was drained we tried to jumpstart the car after 2 hours my headlights finally came on and thw windows started to work but the car still refused to start. I had the car towed to the dealership and they told me my starter needs to be replaced. I bought the car new in march 04. The car is just over 2 years old and I have to get the starter replaced?? Past experience dictates that once the first problem happens it is only a matter of time before it becomes a maintenance nightmare.

    Anyone experience this problem I need to make a decision on what I should do next.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    I doubt that Nissan dealer prices are any indication of real-world cost of any repair. That $500 should run for $250 if not less at any descent shop. I recently had the following done in one visit at a private shop: valve cover gaskets/intake manifold gaskets/clean throttle body, all for $250. Just take a wild guess what the dealer quote was for this work.

    They charge $90 per hour for labor plus retail price for any part plus tax and this only applies if they know what the issue is, in many cases they will charge you for a computerized diagnostic separately without any guarantee of fixing the issue. I wouldn't take the car with this issue to a dealer, a private shop should fix it for less.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    your starter may have become defective because you cranked it too much when battery was dead and it has nothing to do with any other parts. Whatever the reason, it should still be under warranty so if they want to replace it then let them, no big deal, it's even better, you get a new starter at 42K rather then having to pay for it at 80K.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    General rule of thumb is to never crank a starter for more than 15 seconds. They will overheat easily if you keep cranking them, as they are not designed for that purpose....that is, prolonged use. They are high torque, short-term motors.
  • 95max295max2 Member Posts: 9
    My 95 max, I have it for about three months, it has about 105,000. Sometimes, it act like it don't want to start, "the starter would not turn over I was told" Others says it might be my oxygen Sensor. When I put the heat on today the car begin to act like I was not giving it gas, jucking, then it cut out and took about two minutes to start and sometimes it cut out when I go to pull off. I have no car knowledge, any sugestion will be helpful.
  • oggioggi Member Posts: 1
    When I start the cold engine, it runs but does not rev up even if I floor the gas pedal. This lasts for about a minute. If I try to drive it during this minute, the car almost chokes and rolls very slowly. Then all of the sudden it goes into normal mode of operation, but there's still some hesitation when I accelerate. Got it diagnosed, but I get the feeling that the mechanic was unsure of the problem. He did say that everything points to the fuel pump temperature sensor and fuel pressure regulator. Has anyone experienced this issue? Please help, I am out of ideas.

    PS I tested the fuel temperature sensor, it checked out ok measuring 2,300 Ohm at 20 degrees C.

    I thank you all kindly!
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