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Comments
Does your Maxima make that buzzing noise only once or frequently after you turn it off? I have 2003 Acura TL making a buzzing noise every 5 minutes when it's off. Just want to see if any similar posting. How do you fix your problem? Thanks.
Eric
My Maxima makes the noise only once when I turn the engine off. It also makes the noise while the car is running every time the RPMs cross (going up and going down) 1000. So I hear it while I am in traffic. I did not get it repaired yet. When I had my car in for service at the nissan dealer they told me they would charge me $90 to diagnose and that it was probably a bad valve. They asked me if I was stalling, but I am not. It does feel like the engine is not running as smooth. I didn't let them diagnose since I felt that was ripoff considering the money I have spent there in the past.
Sam
Thanks for your reply and it sounds like my TL's noise is pretty unique. I owned 85, 88, 92, and 01 Maxima and they never gave me any major problem. I chose TL that year because they just redesigned the Maxima and the price went up to something like 28k. [non-permissible content removed] luck on your car.
Eric
Thanks
The most expensive catalytic converter went out on the car at 118k and it cost over 1100 dollars to fix it, because there is no aftermarket replacement for it.
At three years old the auto trans shifter locked up and Nissan wouldnt replace it, at the same time the steering knuckle on the passenger side gave out. It cost me 575 to replace the shifter and another 400 for the steering knuckle.
After all that I still love my car.....I just dont like Nissan support.
My dealer is considering this rust issue to be of "natural causes", and NOT by a manufacturer's defect. Nissan repaired it the first time at no cost as a "goodwill gesture", according to the service manager (first time I have heard this and I've been dealing with this for over a year - talk about making things up to sway a situation in their favor!). The service manager also informed me that the decision on the cause of the problem being "natural causes" was the dealership's decision (not Nissan's). They know that the problem is the result of the gap between the door and the trim being too wide, allowing road debris to hit the paint head-on, sanding the paint off. I did not design this car, and shouldn't be held liable for repairs of problems that I did not directly cause and could not have reasonably prevented.
The first repair did nothing to prevent a recurrence of the problem, and now I am stuck dealing with a bad situation that I did not directly create. It was mentioned to me by the service manager that clear plastic film could have been placed over the area during the first repair. When I questioned him as to why this was not done, he said that it was not spelled out in the procedure that Nissan dictates they perform. Once again, this is not my problem. I consider this a failure on their part, and now the recurrence of the rust and the repair are going to cost me?!? I am thinking about going to arbitration with this issue. It's hard for me to accept paying for someone else's incompetence and/or mistakes.
see very little on replacing ECUs. does it cause any further damage if replaced? is it worth it to replace?
as is, the car stalls, smokes, and basically is undrivable, lucky to just move it a mile to the dealership. but does fixing the ecu guarantee all the stalling/smoking is fixed?
I have also noticed a whining noise which appears to be coming from the left-front wheel, when slowing down (below about 5 mph). The CV joint boots appear to be fine.
When applying the brakes firmly, a noise is heard from both front and rear brakes when the pedal is released. The front and rear pads appear to be okay.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what could be causing these problems?
Any advice you can offer is greatly appreciated.
I saw them on Rockauto.com, the Himitzu are ~37$ each and the Airtex ~$51 each. Much cheaper than the Nissan branded parts ~$69 each.
FYI--getting coils for my 2000 Maxima GXE.
We just got a flat on the freeway, put on the doughnut spare, and decided to stay in a hotel overnight rather than continue driving in the dark, since we can't drive very fast or very far on the doughnut.
Any particular tire recommendations for a 2000 GLE? We've got Faulkens on now and they don't seem to last very long.
We're hoping to be able to find a service station tomorrow a.m. that can plug up the flat, but we were on the verge of needing new tires anyway so probably will be replacing them all once we limp back home.
Would appreciate any thoughts or recommendations.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
We drove (slowly!) about 70 miles on the doughnut, and will probably put another 30 - 40 on it before we get the new tires. Anyone know when the doughnut tire itself should be replaced? How many miles can they have on them before they become unsafe themselves?
hopefully , you placed them on the rear wheels. With smaller footprint they provide less traction on dry pavement and while cornering. My guess they can last at least 1000 miles, but if I were you I'll replace them right away. BTW one good thing about getting VDC is getting full size spare.
We ordered the Goodyear Eagle Response Edge, four new ones. Supposed to get them in later this afternoon or tomorrow.
So it's safe to keep the doughnut spare for additional use, if necessary? This is the second time we've had to use it. Only put a few miles on it last time, but around 100 this time.
A little more background about my symptoms: my '97 maxima has always been stubborn about turning over. It has often not turned over on the first try, but then after I push the brake down or turn the steering wheel and try again it has always started up just fine.
Today it won't budge. It just makes that clicking sound and I see a little pulley move near the engine, but that's it.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Usually, a low speed overheat but not a high speed overheat is an air circulation problem. A high speed overheat but not a low speed overheat is a water circulation problem. That's how it usually works.
Power steering fluid is the same fluid as in your transmission - guess which one works harder? I would leave it alone for the life of the car.
Now, the brake fluid, considering the car is 7 years old, has absorbed some water, so I would definitely replace it.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere