Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

1697072747582

Comments

  • atomheartmotheatomheartmothe Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking at a used 1995 Nissan Maxima (not sure which version, but not the SE) with 95k miles on it for $2999. What are some things I should check for when looking it over? Any problem areas I should look at?
  • t2029t2029 Member Posts: 8
    Hi stermen,

    Does your Maxima make that buzzing noise only once or frequently after you turn it off? I have 2003 Acura TL making a buzzing noise every 5 minutes when it's off. Just want to see if any similar posting. How do you fix your problem? Thanks.

    Eric
  • ldc5ldc5 Member Posts: 4
    Thank you. I assume you mean the harnes & connector leading from each oxygen sensor all the back to the ECM?....another question, do you have an opinion on if Haynes manual for this car has sufficient detail, or should I invest in the shop manual?
  • stermenstermen Member Posts: 10
    Eric,

    My Maxima makes the noise only once when I turn the engine off. It also makes the noise while the car is running every time the RPMs cross (going up and going down) 1000. So I hear it while I am in traffic. I did not get it repaired yet. When I had my car in for service at the nissan dealer they told me they would charge me $90 to diagnose and that it was probably a bad valve. They asked me if I was stalling, but I am not. It does feel like the engine is not running as smooth. I didn't let them diagnose since I felt that was ripoff considering the money I have spent there in the past.

    Sam
  • t2029t2029 Member Posts: 8
    Hi Sam,

    Thanks for your reply and it sounds like my TL's noise is pretty unique. I owned 85, 88, 92, and 01 Maxima and they never gave me any major problem. I chose TL that year because they just redesigned the Maxima and the price went up to something like 28k. [non-permissible content removed] luck on your car.

    Eric
  • ccmbduong1ccmbduong1 Member Posts: 49
    Anyone knows if 1997 Maxima has cabin air filter? and how to change it?

    Thanks
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    Mine didn't have, and I'm pretty sure it was not an option until '98 or '99.
  • mdefeomdefeo Member Posts: 1
    I have an 01 20th anniversary Maxima. I have black (so called) leather interior. It just so happens that they lied about it being leather. The part you sit on is leather fabric. The parts surrounding the leather is vinyl and at around 4 or 5 years old the vinyl started cracking and coming apart on the drivers seat. I have yet to find a recall on this subject so your on your own to fix it.
    The most expensive catalytic converter went out on the car at 118k and it cost over 1100 dollars to fix it, because there is no aftermarket replacement for it.
    At three years old the auto trans shifter locked up and Nissan wouldnt replace it, at the same time the steering knuckle on the passenger side gave out. It cost me 575 to replace the shifter and another 400 for the steering knuckle.
    After all that I still love my car.....I just dont like Nissan support.
  • ecd1974ecd1974 Member Posts: 5
    Update:

    My dealer is considering this rust issue to be of "natural causes", and NOT by a manufacturer's defect. Nissan repaired it the first time at no cost as a "goodwill gesture", according to the service manager (first time I have heard this and I've been dealing with this for over a year - talk about making things up to sway a situation in their favor!). The service manager also informed me that the decision on the cause of the problem being "natural causes" was the dealership's decision (not Nissan's). They know that the problem is the result of the gap between the door and the trim being too wide, allowing road debris to hit the paint head-on, sanding the paint off. I did not design this car, and shouldn't be held liable for repairs of problems that I did not directly cause and could not have reasonably prevented.

    The first repair did nothing to prevent a recurrence of the problem, and now I am stuck dealing with a bad situation that I did not directly create. It was mentioned to me by the service manager that clear plastic film could have been placed over the area during the first repair. When I questioned him as to why this was not done, he said that it was not spelled out in the procedure that Nissan dictates they perform. Once again, this is not my problem. I consider this a failure on their part, and now the recurrence of the rust and the repair are going to cost me?!? I am thinking about going to arbitration with this issue. It's hard for me to accept paying for someone else's incompetence and/or mistakes.
  • alexstorealexstore Member Posts: 264
    can you post a pic of a location of a rust on your car.
  • scorched03scorched03 Member Posts: 4
    have a 98 maxima w/ 130000 miles. kbb is around 4-5.5K. dealer is wanting 800-1.2K to replace the ECU, which was damaged by windshield crack or leak. sucks, but there was a leak and it rained real hard recently and got the front floormats wet, which i assume shorted the ECU when I turned the car back on. given that, i dunno what i should do: replace it or not.

    see very little on replacing ECUs. does it cause any further damage if replaced? is it worth it to replace?

    as is, the car stalls, smokes, and basically is undrivable, lucky to just move it a mile to the dealership. but does fixing the ecu guarantee all the stalling/smoking is fixed?
  • caugncaugn Member Posts: 29
    I have a 97 Maxima with 170000 miles. It has started to run hot but not quite to the point of over heating. It does this when the temperature is above 85 degrees, I'm driving under 40 mph and the A/C is running. I've checked and both radiator fans are working. Any suggestions as to what to check next, or what the issue may be?
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    Assuming you have the correct coolant level, I would check the thermostat. It's fairly easy to test, and it's cheap to replace.
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    I can't tell whether a new ECU will fix the problem, but you probably want to avoid paying dealer this much money. Get a used one from a salvage yard, and either put it in yourself, or pay a mechanic or a mechanically inclined friend to do it. The salvage yard price is between 150 and 300, just be aware that there are many versions: for manual/auto transmission, federal/CA exhaust, build date, etc. Check this web site www.car-part.com. Also, there's a Maxima enthusiasts web site, where people often part out their totaled vehicles.
  • everclear806everclear806 Member Posts: 7
    Hey Larry, it sounds like you have a problem with the brake light switch. Thats one of the safety features so that you can't shift out of park w/o the brake being applied.
  • 99maximaseowne99maximaseowne Member Posts: 1
    I recently noticed that the engine of my '99 Maxima SE/Automatic with 41,000 miles hesitates/runs rough after being started in the morning. The "Check Engine" light has not come on and I checked to see if there were any fault codes stored and the only code found was "0505". The idle speed does fluctuate somewhat when coming to a stop. It feels like the engine is misfiring. When started and driven later in the day, the car drives fine. Also, all 6 ignition coils were replaced at 30,000 miles.

    I have also noticed a whining noise which appears to be coming from the left-front wheel, when slowing down (below about 5 mph). The CV joint boots appear to be fine.

    When applying the brakes firmly, a noise is heard from both front and rear brakes when the pedal is released. The front and rear pads appear to be okay.

    Does anyone have any suggestions as to what could be causing these problems?

    Any advice you can offer is greatly appreciated.
  • jbrock718jbrock718 Member Posts: 5
    Does anyone know anyhting about or have experience with these brands of ignition coils; Himitzu or Airtex? I can't find anything on the Himitzu brand.

    I saw them on Rockauto.com, the Himitzu are ~37$ each and the Airtex ~$51 each. Much cheaper than the Nissan branded parts ~$69 each.

    FYI--getting coils for my 2000 Maxima GXE.
  • adis2048adis2048 Member Posts: 1
    ive got a 07 maxima and the [non-permissible content removed] has a simalar problem once i start the car and everything is going good and then the RPM gets to 1000 and i hear a squeak in the engine, to me it sounds like a bird is trapped in the engine, then i rev the engine a bit just so it could go up to 1250 RPM and i hear the squeak when it goes over 1000RPM and when the RPM goes back to idle and goes below 1000 RPM i hear the squeak again. is it the same problem as you and if you think it is how much does that valve cost.
  • dustyldustyl Member Posts: 1
    I was unable to start my car after work today. It won't turn over. There is a clicking noise by the fuse panel inside the vehicle when I try to start it. There is power to the car to run the windows, radio, etc. I replaced the starter about 2 years ago. I checked the fuses but they seemed ok. Is there something wrong the ignition or electrical problem?
  • biancarbiancar Member Posts: 965
    Is this the right topic for this?

    We just got a flat on the freeway, put on the doughnut spare, and decided to stay in a hotel overnight rather than continue driving in the dark, since we can't drive very fast or very far on the doughnut.

    Any particular tire recommendations for a 2000 GLE? We've got Faulkens on now and they don't seem to last very long.

    We're hoping to be able to find a service station tomorrow a.m. that can plug up the flat, but we were on the verge of needing new tires anyway so probably will be replacing them all once we limp back home.

    Would appreciate any thoughts or recommendations.
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    We have an '01 GLE and have been very happy with the Bridgestone Turanza LS-H.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Member Posts: 536
    I have a 2003 Max SE and replaced the OEM Potenzas at 34k miles with Yokohama AVID V4S bought from TireRack.com and installed locally. After 10k miles, I am still happy with them and they barely show any wear. Prices vary considerably so shop around. The tirerack web site is a very good starting point for tire research IMO. Good hunting.
  • biancarbiancar Member Posts: 965
    Looked on Tirerack and appears the Goodyear Eagle Response Edge and the Bridgestone Turanza Serenity would both be good choices.

    We drove (slowly!) about 70 miles on the doughnut, and will probably put another 30 - 40 on it before we get the new tires. Anyone know when the doughnut tire itself should be replaced? How many miles can they have on them before they become unsafe themselves?
  • aggiedogaggiedog Member Posts: 238
    I got those same Yoko's from tire rack for my 02 SE and they are great wet and dry.
  • pernaperna Member Posts: 521
    Bridgestone Turanza LS-Vs. They are night and day from the OEM Potenzas. It civilizes the ride without losing the handling, and are MUCH better on wet and snow-covered roads.
  • alexstorealexstore Member Posts: 264
    Well it depends.
    hopefully , you placed them on the rear wheels. With smaller footprint they provide less traction on dry pavement and while cornering. My guess they can last at least 1000 miles, but if I were you I'll replace them right away. BTW one good thing about getting VDC is getting full size spare.
  • biancarbiancar Member Posts: 965
    Yes, it's on a rear wheel.

    We ordered the Goodyear Eagle Response Edge, four new ones. Supposed to get them in later this afternoon or tomorrow.

    So it's safe to keep the doughnut spare for additional use, if necessary? This is the second time we've had to use it. Only put a few miles on it last time, but around 100 this time.
  • masetimemasetime Member Posts: 3
    I am having the exact same problem as you. Did you ever figure out the cause?

    A little more background about my symptoms: my '97 maxima has always been stubborn about turning over. It has often not turned over on the first try, but then after I push the brake down or turn the steering wheel and try again it has always started up just fine.

    Today it won't budge. It just makes that clicking sound and I see a little pulley move near the engine, but that's it.

    Any ideas?
  • masetimemasetime Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever figure out what was causing your problem? I am currently having a nearly identical problem. When I try to start it makes a single "click" and then nothing else happens. It never tries to turn over.

    Any ideas?
  • caugncaugn Member Posts: 29
    I replaced the thermostat last week, made sure the radiator was full and then with the outside temperature reaching a mere 85 degrees, with the A/C on and driving in slow rush hour traffic it heated up again. Both fans are running and nothing is obstructing the radiator. If I can keep the car running at at least 50 MPH it stays cool, otherwise it heats up. Any other thoughts as to what could cause this?
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    So you are saying that with both fans on it still overheats, while going 50MPH it does not? I can't make any sense out of it, the natural airflow is enough but the fans are not?! Or could it be that driving steadily doesn't produce as much heat as stop and go driving? Was the coolant drained from the engine at any point? Maybe there's air trapped? If so, you may want to wait until the engine is cold, take off the radiator cap and run the engine until it warms up. This should purge all the air from the engine. Also, how old is you radiator cap? Those go bad too. Finally, there are two temp sensors - one for the ECU and one for the gauge. Could it be that either one is bad? Chilton or Haynes should have the procedure to test them.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I couldn't make sense out of that either. My only thought was maybe a partly clogged radiator that worked better with the water pump spinning at high speeds. But air in the system is a possibility.

    Usually, a low speed overheat but not a high speed overheat is an air circulation problem. A high speed overheat but not a low speed overheat is a water circulation problem. That's how it usually works.
  • caugncaugn Member Posts: 29
    I had the radiator flushed about 2 years ago, coincidentally when this issue showed up. The radiator cap is 10 years old (original). I'll give taking off the cap and running the engine a shot. Then I'll look into the temp sensors. I also thought about the clogged port like Mr_Shiftright mentioned. Maybe I'll try flushing the system before messing with the sensors. I'll keep you posted.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The radiator can be flow-tested. Sometimes flushing is just a waste of time---it's too clogged for flushing in many instances.
  • dezz1dezz1 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima. The car would not start and I had to get a jump start to get it going again. I bought a new battery and I had no problems until recently, two weeks since the new battery was installed. When I go to start the car, it sounds as if it might not start but it ends up starting. If i drive it for about 1/2 hour then turn it off, after 5 mins, when I try to restart the car, it sounds as if the battery is about to give out. I end up giving it another try and it turns on. I'm afraid it will not turn on at all. Does anyone know what might be the problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think you need to have alternator output checked
  • ceylon1ceylon1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 maxima with the same problem, but its 90 degrees outside and it won't start in the mornings. It takes a few tries then it starts. For the rest of the day the car is normally fine its just the mornings. What could this be??? I need to get this fixed now because I have someone buying it.
  • dezz1dezz1 Member Posts: 5
    I had several people give me different possibilities as to why my car won't start right away or why it has a weak start. The ignition coils might need to be replaced, it might be the starter, it might be a short, it might be the alternator. I took back the battery that I just bought at AutoZone to have them check if the battery is good or if it is being drained by my alternator. The guy there seemed to think that it is not the alternator because it would drain my battery. Anyway, before determining that my battery is good, my brother helped me take off the battery and he said he might have found out my problem. The cord/hose that connects to the minus (-) part of the battery (excuse my own terminology)came off basically on its own where as the plus (+) cord/hose needed some time to unscrew. He said it was not snug and was probably not making proper contact. Apparently the minus side of the new battery is somewhat thinner that the battery that came with the car when I bought it. My brother tightened it as much as possible but ended up having to put a piece of metal to make it snug. This frightens me but he assures me it will be fine. The car has started just fine these last couple of days. I hope that my problem was fixed, i will keep you posted. I recommend checking all parts to make sure nothing is lose before having to spend lots of unecesary money.
  • robdgrobdg Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 Maxima GLE, and I'm having some radio issues. I feel I can handle those, but taking apart the center console to get at the radio is causing me some problems. I can get the paneling around the shifter and cigarette lighter out, and get out the bottom two screws to the radio assembly, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to access the top two screws of the radio/ac console. Any help?
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    IIRC, you pull out the vent panel first. You can pry it a bit with a screwdriver wrapped in electrical tape, but I was able to do it with bare hands. Just pull it straight out.
  • robdgrobdg Member Posts: 2
    That got it. Turns out I was just being a bit to gentle with it the first time around. Thanks a lot man.
  • rafarafa Member Posts: 35
    we have a 2005 nissan maxima se that we love well a couple a weeks back someone scraped the rear bumper and now the paints coming off. wanted to know if we can just buy a new bumper cover and if it comes painted already and how to remove the old one and put new one on if you can help let us know thanks
  • alexstorealexstore Member Posts: 264
    In my opinion, they are useless. Parked on a public street or even with your own garage, at one point you will be parked in a public spot and get a scratch. you can go to any shop , they will remove old paint , put primer and paint over it. Only person with a trained eye will see that a car has old paint and bumper is all new.
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    I don't believe they come painted, and removing it is fairly easy - should be just a few plastic clips, maybe a screw or two.
  • heart2heart2 Member Posts: 38
    Went to dealer for my free oil change; car only has 36K miles. Of course they look to make money on other items. Told I need new belts (original so prob correct), power steering fluid dirty and brake fluid need changing. Cost was from another planet. Told them I'd think about it and will go to my local very trusted mechanic. What are the belts in this car? I'm used to my other cars with just one serpentine belt. Does anyone change these fluids? I've never done that in my previous cars and they did fine for over 100K. Thanks.
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    There are two belts, and they should not be worn at 36k, if they are cracked a bit across the ribs, that's normal.

    Power steering fluid is the same fluid as in your transmission - guess which one works harder? I would leave it alone for the life of the car.

    Now, the brake fluid, considering the car is 7 years old, has absorbed some water, so I would definitely replace it.
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    My '01 Maxima (75000 miles) has never had any of those items done yet. Since your car has such low miles, it might have been sitting outside and not run for long periods of time. That can contribute to premature wear sometimes.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • dezz1dezz1 Member Posts: 5
    I ended up taking my 2001 maxima to the dealer because of my start problem. I was told it was the starter and I had to replace it. There was nothing wrong with the battery or its connectors. The car has been starting great since then and counting. But...about 4 hours after leaving the dealer my Service Engine Soon light came on. I went back the next day to see if they could tell me what might be wrong. I was upset that they wanted another $91 for another diagnosis, after I had just spent over $500 on a new starter. They said that it had nothing to do with the starter so I had to pay for another diagnosis. I left quite upset thinking that I would take it to a local mecanic to see if they would tell me what was wrong. It didn't get to that because the light turned off on its own just about 5 days after the new starter was installed. Since the light turned off, should I bother to take it in just in case?
  • alexstorealexstore Member Posts: 264
    go to your dealer and demand money back for misdiagnosis
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    To remove the starter, you need to unhook a couple of sensors - a MAF sensor, and an air intake temp sensor, if I remember correctly. If they forgot to plug those back in, it would turn the SES light on.
Sign In or Register to comment.