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Comments
Does the engine light come on?
Does this only happen when the motor is warm? No other time.
Has the transmission and fluids been checked?
Does the transmission eventually shift into 2nd or third?
Are you watching the tachometer thru this whole process, Your tach should drop when she shifts gears assuming this is an automatic. 2200 down to 1500 etc.......
When you step hard on the accelerator, does the transmission kick down into low, cause it should?
Does the engine light go on and off by itself?
When was the last time the car had a tune up?
Do you use high test gas, because sometimes cheap gass may have water in it, and will cause the car to not run to full potential, and bad gas can also clog fuel injectors. Try using injector cleaner periodically to clean out any clogs.
Lots of people ignore fuel filters, which should be changed periodically. Bad gas can be a major culprit. It can fool you by running ok sometimes and badly others.
Ty to answer these questions before we go any further. Hopefully this will be of some help. Process of elimination.
Mechanic said I need to replace struts and axle but I will delay it another one year. Car runs absolutely fine.
I had my 07 Max in the shop a year or so ago for a front brake replacement and the shop replaced my fronts with ceramic as they said they were OEM and they were not allowed to go below OEM specs when doing replacements. Now my rears are ready for replacement and I'm looking to be a smarter consumer this time around.
Sound to me like you need to either consider a new local mechanic who's invested in the latest technology and training, or perhaps a new vehicle.
Does anybody know what could be the problem?
After readin all these discussions it seems to me we have been charged way too much and for all you know the car may still be vibrating after the repair as I read on other forums this is a known problem with Nissan Maximas.
Get it taken care if else you will end up having to change pre-cat too
go to maxima.org and you can get more info
In addition, my TCS and Slip lights came on a few weeks ago including the Service Engine indicator light. My understanding is if both lights are on they cancel out the TCS and Slip functions.
There are 120,000 miles on the speedometer. Are these malfunctions typical for older Maximas?
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
I pulled the code from the CEL and it was 0102 meaning MAF, I installed a NEW one and it still wants to stall when turning or parking, any ideas what to look at next. I have no CEL yet, probably didn't drive far enough since replacing the MAF and clearing the code for a full drive cycle yet?
OK enough yapping and down to the problem. Sometimes the car will crank and crank but won't hit. Sometimes it starts on the first crank. We cannot make it repeat and nothing seems to trigger it. The dealer first told me it was the starter and for 538 dollars they would fix it. Well I got the starter and changed it myself, wasn't it. put the old one back and got my money back. It left my wife sitting and I had to leave work, so we took it straight to the dealer when I got it going. this time they told me it was the crank sensor and the flywheel was missing teeth. they wanted $1187 for the repair. not happening. got thecar home changed the rear CPS, no change, front CPS no change. While I was under the car I decided to look at the flywheel myself( by the access panel on the bottom of the tranny they said they used), well it hasn't been off.also cleaned the cam sensor
Does anyone have any ideas or ran into the same problem? Oh and would the key have any effect on the starting, I know it is chipped, but the one we have is pretty beat up and rattles when shaken, I'm thinking the the chip may be loose and relaying the proper info, just a guess
sorry for the long post, just trying to give as much info as possible. Thanks RM
After reading this forum I am seeing a common denominator with all that I have been experiencing with my 2000 Nissan Maxima (140k). I've had problems with the sensors, the weird noises, the "check engine light" coming on and off as well as other malfunctioning issues. And just last week my car turned off after driving in the rain. Currently, the car is in a shop and I am waiting to hear some kind of report, but the one thing that I was told could be the issue, is that I am having electrical issues. I am frustrated and ready to toss this car (although I still have a car note) and I am nervous to find out how much this is going to cost me!
Anyone have any ideas on how much this may cost or even what could be the problem, seeing as though these cars have a history with sensor and electrical problems?
Had it towed to dealer for further evaluation. They said the timing chain was fine but that it skipped time and the pistons blew into the valves. Long story short, I need a new motor.
1. Is this possible for the valves to do this?
2. Why in the sam hell, if this is possible, wouldn't some code be thrown that would tell me this is a potentially serious problem that needs to be checked before the engine completely blows? Or should it have thrown a code?
3. Any recommendations on getting a used motor?
4. Is this engine replacement something a good mechanic could handle or should this be done at the outrageously expensive dealer labor fees (ie: special tools, special Nissan training required)?
Thanks. -Matt
They probably know of sources for used engines. Here's one:
JDM
Your question about a code for this problem is interesting. Some cars did in fact have warning systems for engine timing disorders (Porsche 928) but with a timing chain, it's a pretty rare occurrence.
In hindsight, chains do give warnings usually before they break or jump time by making noise.
I'd take the car to an independent shop and first off, have them verify the huge drop in compression that would indicate bent valves.
Also, I'd remove the head and inspect the engine internally, if a drop in compression is verified. It may not be necessary to replace the entire engine. A piston can "kiss" a valve and bend it slightly without serious damage to itself sometimes--requiring only a rebuilt cylinder head.
Visiting Host
System Too Lean - Bank 1
Description:=20
How does a P0171 code trigger the check engine light? This code will trigge=
r the check engine light as follows:
The adaptive fuel strategy in the vehicle's computer constantly monitors th=
e fuel delivery system to make sure the engine is running at an optimum air=
to fuel ratio, which is 14.7:1. The computer adjusts injector pulse width =
to regulate the amount of fuel going into the engine. The oxygen sensors re=
lay information to the Powertrain Control Module (computer), informing it o=
f the oxygen content in the exhaust. This information is translated by the =
computer, and used to determine if more or less fuel is needed. The compute=
r will then adjust fuel flow (and possibly other related engine operating c=
haracteristics), to keep the correct air fuel mixture. This loop continues =
as long as the engine is running. Please refer to our article Oxygen Sensor=
Code Diagnosis for more info on this system. A P0171 check engine light co=
de is set when the computer has reached a rich calibration limit and can no=
t add enough fuel to maintain the correct mixture.=20
Possible Causes:=20
Refer to our Oxygen Sensor Code Diagnosis article for a list of all possibl=
e causes. The following is an overview of P0171 check engine light code pos=
sible causes.
Fuel System:
Leaking or faulty fuel pressure regulator
Plugged or dirty fuel filter or lines
Fuel pump weak or defective check valve
Injectors leaking or faulty
Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel
Leaking EVAP system components
Faulty FRP (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor)
Air Intake System
Vacuum leaks
Contaminated, damaged or faulty Mass Air Flow sensor
PCV valve leak or stuck open
Air induction turbulance caused by wrong filter
Oil dipstick not seated
Air leaks after the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
Oil coated aftermarket air filter
Exhaust System
Any exhaust leak before or near the oxygen sensors
EGR System
Vacuum line disconnected from EGR System Module (ESM)
EGR valve, tube or gasket leak
EGR vacuum regulator valve leaking
Secondary Air Injection System
Mechanically stuck secondary air injection valve
Diagnostic Help:=20
A very thorough discussion of how to approach and repair a P0171 check engi=
ne light code can be found here. If you need further assistance let us know=
. Please be sure to stop back in and visit some of our other very useful si=
te features to lear more about your car's emissions system!
=A0
Reference:=A0 http://www.engine-light-help.com/P0171-check-engine-light.htm=
l
Thanks,
Suzanne V. Thompson
well - sounds like the crazy problem I have with my 95. Get a load of this. Recent news (been chasing this starting problem for 2 years, I can change the started in 45 minutes - done 3): the problem, according to 2 dealers who knew of it, is a corrosion problem apparently between the transmission and the block. Solution is to take off the transmission, clean the surfaces, apply new dielectric grease, and reinstall. Sounds so crazy that I could not believe it but 2 dealers confirmed. The other 2 I called never heard of it. I have ground strapping in my hand that I will try this weekend, but have low confidence it will work. Recommend you call around and see if anyone can confirm this... Hope this helps. I too replaced crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, knock sensor... Starters eventually died and replaced too... Good luck and please let me know what happens.
THANK YOU
It's difficult to see it but what I can see looks OK, also in my experience these don't just "go" like the older accessory belts. Since I occassionally take 300-400 mile trips I'd hate to have to replace it on the side of the road. Any thoughts on this, or tell me how long yours have lasted.
Also, when I had my oil changed last week (Wal-Mart, they now do an automatic battery "check") the little paper they handed me said the battery was "low". I put in an Interstate 75 month battery almost 3 years ago because I was going to be spending the rest of the winter in CO and felt it was a good preventive measure.
Thanks for any input.
fa
Did you check the fluid level of the battery? Do you keep it filled? If the cells get dry the dry part is dead until it get reconditioned.
I'll keep watching this list but if you find out anything, please do let me know.
I'd hate to replace the transmission if that's not the problem.
Thanks in advance.
easypar
On my 03 Max, it was the brake hardware (aka pad retaining clips) that was replaced. I also got new rotors (NAPA Ultra) so had that done at the same time. Noise is gone but it could have been a problem with any of those parts (pad, rotor, clip). Let me know what yours turns out to be...good luck
It was kind of odd, I had three potential buyers look at my car and two of them made offers but both of them commented about the "thunking and clunking" from the front end. One specifically mentioneda major street nearby that has many of the "tar filled joint repairs". Oddly enough both of them made offers but one made his low enough to more than pay for struts because he was sure it was struts.
I waited until after 10:00 PM and drove around, no radio or other distractions and even shut off the engine and coasted a bit. I'm a bit hard of hearing and the only thing that I noticed out of the ordinary (I've owned this unit since it was 4 months old) sounded more "sheet metal" than solid like a strut problem.
Someone on here or another site had mentioned that the rubber bumpers for the hood had needed to be backed out (made taller) so I tried that, and even put a cabinet door "button" on each of them. The noise that I had heard went away. I told the buyer I would have it checked out though before I countered his offer.
I went to a very reputable local brake steering and suspension (not a national chain, a local family with a long reputation in our (50,000 population) town. Told him everything and he drove it for 10-15 minutes and put it on the lift. He said he heard no noise, but then he had no experience with the former condition. He said the only thing on the struts was that one of the boots was a bit torn but he thought the mileage was a bit on the low side for that make and model. He also pointed out (as I had) that the stiffer suspension and lower profile tires on this would feel much different to someone more used to a more spongy sedan.
Thanks for your help on this. I'll see if this guy really wants it
Both lights replaced. Fuse checked and good.
Haynes Repair manual schematic shows all three lights converge at the "stop and tail lamp unit". I would test there if knew where it was located and what it looked like.
Were you able to find out the cause of the codes? I have the same problem. It would be appreciated if you could share the solution with me. You can contact me at farirafati@yahoo.com
Thanks
Were you able to find out the cause of the codes (message #3588)? I have the same problem. It would be appreciated if you could share the solution with me. You can contact me at farirafati@yahoo.com
Thanks
tire tread that hit the bottom of the front bumper and went under the car making a lot of noise. It cracked the front bumper and tore up the plastic shield under the
engine as it went by. Any one know what this plastic piece under the engine is called and where I might find one at a reasonable price? I don't mind doing the work myself, just don't know what to ask for.