Hyundai Elantra 5-door

andopi · July 2006

Hey there,

I have a question about my one-week-old

GLS hatch. I've noted that the visibility out back is limited because the bottom side of the hatchback seems a bit higher. Anyone have similar "issues"? Maybe it's something I'll just get used to? It's not so much that the backwindow in general is smaller (the entire window "fits" into the backmirror, which feels a bit unusual, too), but that it's higher up than most cars I have driven. Makes me feel a bit more uncertain when backing up. I just got the car and am liking it a lot otherwise.

backy · July 2006

You will get used to it. Consider all the sedans that have high trunk lids--which is very popular these days to maximize trunk space. I'll bet the bottom of the Elantra hatch's rear window is lower than on many other cars--just not as low as on your last car.

To me, the big C pillars are a bigger issue than the rear window. But that's what side mirrors are for.

4ruth · July 2006

As far as i am concerned, this is one of the biggest drawbacks in the design. I have been driving my hatchback for a year and I still have problems with blind spots that have almost gotten me creamed by cars on my left, coming up from the rear. The rider side mirror is essential to changing lanes in ways I have never had to use before. I am still training myself to use it more.

backy · July 2006

One thing that might help is be sure the side mirrors are adjusted properly. When they are, you will have continuous vision of cars approaching from behind: first in the inside rearview mirror, then as the car starts passing you and leaves the inside mirror, it moves to the side mirror, then finally as it leaves the side mirror it enters your peripheral vision. The ol' glance-over-the-shoulder comes in handy too.

doohickie · July 2006

I never noticed a visibility problem. I'm 6-2; is this a short person thing?

backy · July 2006

Maybe. But as I've mentioned, the bottom of the back window isn't any higher than on many of the newer sedans. And it's a big back window. Personally I don't think it's a problem if the mirrors are adjusted and used properly. I can see how that would be a problem for some. Before I got daily use of our Elantra GT, my wife used to keep re-adjusting (incorrectly) the side mirrors. I tried to explain why I adjusted them like I did, and how to take advantage of them, but it's hard to change deeply ingrained behavior. Now she can mess up the mirrors on her minivan to her heart's content--I only need to readjust them when I drive the thing, which isn't often. Now, that vehicle has a BIG blind spot in the rear, but at least it is relatively tall and the side windows are big all around.

jlflemmons · July 2006

Same problem on the mirrors with my wife. She keeps setting them so she can see the side of the car. I explained to her that the sides of the car weren't going anywhere she really should trust them to go with the rest of the vehicle.

Boy, did that get a look ... :surprise:

andopi · July 2006

Maybe, but I'm not that short! (5-9) My main issue with the backwindow visibility at the moment really has more to do with backing up than with normal driving, shifting lanes, etc. I simply feel I see less what's right behind me than I did in my Accord (which, granted, wasn't a "new" sedan). And I don't think I can adjust any of the mirrors to show me what's right behind me? But, I also think this is something I'll get used to and maybe if I play with the mirrors to see how they help, generally, with a securer sense of visibility, maybe then I feel less unsure about the back.

Thanks for all the feedback, by the way!

jlflemmons · July 2006

If you want to talk poor rear visability, talk to someone who owned a 1970 Mustang Mach I. Like looking through eye slits!

tsgeisel · July 2006

I'm 5'6" and I don't really have any problems looking out the side windows. However, coming from my old '96 Civic hatch, the smaller size and greater distance of the rear window is still taking some getting used to.

But that's just a fact of owning a larger car.

doohickie · July 2006

Yeah, when I moved up to the Elantra from the Ford Aspire, I had the same feeling.

jvenezia · July 2006

I have an 05 5-door GLS Elantra and I typically get 31-33 mpg with just myself in the car, warm weather, and air conditioning sometimes running. I drive rural roads between Michigan towns in the farmland, so about 80% of my driving is highway at about 62 mph.

A couple of weeks ago, I went from the Thumb of Michigan to Chicago and back with three adults and one teenager and a trunk load of luggage. Drove mostly interstate at 75 mph, but got stuck in lots of construction in Indiana and Illinois...crawling along at a snail's pace in hot weather with the AC on. After all that, I still managed 28 mpg.

At the 4,500 mile mark, about a year ago now, I changed out the oil for a full synthetic 0W50 oil, as well as a higher-grade air filter and oil filter. My mileage went WAY up by about six or seven mpg. I also dumped the OEM tires that came with it (Michelin Energy somethingorothers) at 420 miles (soon after getting the car) and put on some BFGoodrich Traction TA/H tires which have more rolling resistance since they have a much more aggressive (and effective) tread. So if I had kept the Michelins, I would have seen an even better improvement in mileage.

All I can recommend is this: get a PREMIUM grade of at least partially synthetic motor oil (I'm using Amsoil 2000, although I'm by no means trying to sell you on it), swap out the air and oil filters for high-flow products (like K&N or Amsoil) and keep the tires properly inflated. If that doesn't get you around 30 mpg in warm weather with one or two passengers and a not-too-far-over-legal speed, then you have something out of whack in the engine. Could be vacuum, EGR, timing, computer settings, transmission, or something else that's robbing your engine of power. See the dealer again about that.

Good luck!

jvenezia · July 2006

Just chiming in with the discussion about rearward visibility. I also noticed it as soon as I got my '05 hatchback and I just got into the habit of a) cranking my shoulders, neck, and head backward to look behind me when backing up out of my driveway (I have a couple of obstacles that I have to make sure I clear), and b) adjusting my side mirrors properly, as mentioned earlier. I told my daughter, who is 15 and learning how to drive, that the proper way to adjust the side mirrors is to angle them outward so that you can see the sides of the car only if you really lean out. For the driver's side mirror, that means practically resting your head against the door glass. For the passenger's side mirror, that means leaning out over the center console. I didn't learn that when I was first driving and I've come to greatly appreciate a proper mirror setup while avoiding some high-speed interstate turf-wars.

jlflemmons · July 2006

I feel your pain. I have a 15yo son I am doing parent-taught drivers ed with.

When he gets his regular license, the insurance goes up $96 a month!

doohickie · July 2006

Been there, done that; he totalled a car a month after he got his license. The second one is about to get his permit. :sick:

dadickie · July 2006

Hi,
I live in Philly, and I've been trying to purchase a black GT with the premium package...all the dealers here are unable to locate one. Anyone know how to get this car? It seems crazy to me that there isn't one at any dealer in the region.
thanks!

dovid2 · August 2006

Well, after owning a 2000 GLS and an '04 GT sedan, I finally got a GT hatch! I picked one up for the little wo... I mean, my wife. It's almost the same as mine: both black, same year, same mileage, except hers is automatic and mine's manual. It's in great condition except for some acid rain spots. So for this week, we're a 3 Elantra family. Thursday we'll give the GLS to my stepdaughter, whose Cavalier gave up the ghost.

compensate · September 2006

It's been a while since I posted anything, so I thought I'd give an update.

The car has been very good overall. The only real issues have been:

(1) Front brake rotors that need to be replaced everytime the brake pads are replaced. I usually have gotten at least two brake pad changes per rotor change from other cars I have owned for long time periods. This isn't a major problem, just annoying & extra expense.

(2) A very small oil seal leak on the manual transmission that has been around since around 60,000 miles. I check the fluid levels every 20,000 or so and have never noticed a significant drop in gear oil. This one is not a big problem either.

(3) CD player goes through moments of tracking errors from time to time. It sitll works fine, just that some minor road bumps seem to annoy it more than others.

(4) Both vanity mirrors fell off the visors within 2 weeks of each other once I passed 130,000 miles. The failure occured at the small plastic tabs on the back of the mirror assembly that were intended to hold it to each visor. I am considering gluing them back, using silicone sealant, since the small tabs are broken. It was kind of funny that they both fell out so close in time!

(5) Manifold and first catalytic converter both failed around 98,000 miles and engine became very noisy, especially when cold. I was able to get warranty coverage on this, fortunately.

(6) The engine has just recently become very noisy when cold. Sounds like loose belts, but mechanic said the belts should auto-tension (not sure if that is accurate at this point in time). All serptentine belts were replaced around 95,000 miles, just before timing belt replacement at 97,000 miles (approx.). This issue is still quite the enigma right now.

Good things to report:

(1) Gas mileage is still very good. I tend to drive closer to 80 on the interstate highway system (85% of my mileage) and still get about 32 mpg combined mileage.

(2) I still have the original alternator, which is a rare thing at 130,000 miles (compared to other cars I've owned).

(3) I still have the original struts, although they are just now starting to feel a little worn. My car was the early production model (2001.5), so it has the "comfort" suspension, not the sport suspension that most GTs have.

(4) There is very little rattling and other structural noises that many higher-mileage cars develop. Car still seems well-built overall, inside and out.

Enjoy your Elantras!

5port · September 2006

Great report. Thanks!

compensate · September 2006

Haha! I just read some of the comments about other peoples' wives setting their side mirrors so they can see each side of the car.

I had to post to say that my wife does the exact same thing and will not do it any other way. I also explained that the real blind spots are not right next to the side of the car, but decided not to press the issue since she was getting defensive about it.

I don't know if her being really short has anything to do with it . . .

lightfootfl · September 2006

Suggestion: Maybe..?

You need your wife's car, and another one, and an adequate location where this can be set up. Have her set the mirrors as she likes. Then place the 2d car in the blind spot, on both sides,(one at a time of course) and have her get out of the car and see where the 2d one is located. Then set, or have her reset, the mirrors correctly, without moving the 2d car, and let her see again. Maybe even move it again, to show how close it would have to be for her to see it. Explain the "whys" etc very calmly "without raising the voice level". Most of the time I have seen something like this work. We all sometimes just have to see things from another perspective before we change our minds. PS, Short has nothing to do with it. Good Luck.

van

4ruth · September 2006

On my 2006 elantra hatchback, there is a digital readout that supposedly tells me what mileage I am getting per gallon. Having just taken a long trip and used my cruise control as much as possible, I got a reading showing 34 mpg. However when I got the tank filled, I had really only gotten 24.4 mpg.

How does this tool work. Is the feedback saying "If you were to drive in this particular condition all the time, you would be getting this kind of mileage" or is it truly supposed to be measuring from fill to fill the kind of mileage you are getting?

What is this readout or tool called? I could not find anything in the owner's manual about it but I did not know what term to use to search.
Is my "tool" for measuring mpg broken?

Thanks for any future input on the question. Ruth

backy · September 2006

The trip computer on the Elantra GT hatchback gives the actual mpg since the last time you reset it. If you do not specifically take action to reset it, it doesn't reset, even when you fill the tank. Did you reset the mpg meter when you filled the tank at the start of your trip?

The other thing I've found with my GT is that with some gas stations, it's very hard to get the tank to within 1-2 gallons of full. Say you fill the tank to click-off at one station and again at the end of your trip, at another station, but put in 2 gallons less than you did originally. That would reduce your calculated mpg but would not affect the calculations from the trip computer, which are based on actual gas used.

You should be able to find the trip computer documented in the owner's manual where it talks about the functions of the instrument panel.

tsgeisel · September 2006

I've found the milage computer to be off as well, generally by 3-4 mpg. And that's based on a fillup to fillup measurement.

It's very odd, because the miles to empty feature tends to work rather well, actually. Although, I'll admit, I've never let myself run out of gas just to determine its accuracy.

spmrebel · September 2006

The trip computer is way off for me as well. Lately my trip computer shows an MPG reading of about 4 to 6 mpg better (32-33 mpg) than manual calculation (26 to 28 mpg). I always use the same gas station and the same method of when to stop (first click). I always reset the trip computer at each fill up.

I actually let my "Miles to Empty" get to 0. The funny thing is that when this happened the entire LCD of the trip computer started flashing. I was able to drive another 3 miles or so to a gas station.

jlflemmons · September 2006

I am not sure why there is such a great disparity on these calculations. On my '05 GT the computer calculation is almost always 1-2MPG below the actual. Close enough for me, but it seems like either the number is just a bit low, or quite a bit high. I have figured out that the number is a running average and does not "start over" at each fill up the way the "Miles to Go" does. It appears that the MTG number is based off the drop in the fuel gauge and little else.

I figured out the averaging on the computer due to going from week in/week out driving in traffic and seeing 26MPG averages, then doing a highway trip where I calculated a true mileage of 34MPG, but the computer only went up a slight amount. The more highway driving I did, the more the average went up.

backy · September 2006

Yes, the mpg meter only starts over if you push the reset button.

I'm not sure why I'm seeing little difference between the mpg meter and at-the-pump mpg numbers. Maybe I got lucky?

nj2pa2nc · September 2006

the trip computer starts flashing when the miles to empty reaches 30 miles left. We seem to have no problems with our trip computer. We fill it to almost the brim and reset it each time.We try to get the cheapest gas. We are probably just lucky also.

jlflemmons · September 2006

I will have to look at mine again. I never realized the mpg could be reset. I just reset the trip miles.

4ruth · September 2006

Me again. I reset the mpg meter each time I fill up. I also fill at the same station and in the same way.

I am wondering whether the great mileage that we are supposed to be getting is based on actual calculations or on these meter readings.

On this past trip, I did all I could do to maximize mileage: I was mostly on country roads with little traffic so I could set my cruise control for 60 mph and leave in on most of the time. I was using no extras like AC and I had both the moon roof and the windows closed to decrease drag. And still I did not get up 30 mph real miles, though the meter showed me up to 34.2 at the end of the trip.

backy · September 2006

I am wondering whether the great mileage that we are supposed to be getting is based on actual calculations or on these meter readings.

I've done it both ways (and I owned a '01 Elantra for over 5 years that had no mpg meter), and I think it's very strange that you cannot average over 30 mpg under the conditions you described. The only thing I can think of is that you tend to drive with a "heavy foot." I've noticed huge differences in fuel economy with just slight differences in pedal pressure. Just today, I was driving a rental Impala on freeways. It has an instantaneous mpg meter (wish the Elantra had that). By just letting up on the gas pedal a very, very small amount I watched the instantaneous mpg jump from around 30-32 to upper 30s or low 40s (this was at 60-65 mph, level terrain). If I pressed just a little harded, the car didn't go any faster (maybe another 1 mph) but the mpg dropped. Try pretending that there is a raw egg between your foot and the gas pedal. Also keep your foot off the gas as much as possible--I think this is called "pulse and glide".

doohickie · September 2006

I don't have the trip computer so all my calculations are the old-fashioned way.

I've gotten between 21 and 35 mpg since getting the car new, for an average of about 26 and a half. In mixed driving with AC on, I get about 25 or so; with AC off (even with windows down), I get 27-28.... provided I use the raw egg approach described above. If I lean into a little, that goes down, but still not too much.

My last car was a Ford Aspire, so I don't feel I need a lot of gas to get where I'm going; I glide around pretty good. My best trick for mileage is when I get on the freeway I try to use steady acceleration to get up to about 50-55 mph by the end of the ramp, then slowly blend into traffic at about 63 and set my cruise. I find that by not trying to be up to full cruising speed by the end of the ramp, I barely need to touch the accelerator.

jvenezia · September 2006

I'll weigh in on this also...

I've been very carefully calculating my mileage on my 05 Elantra for the past few months. I'm typically a pretty aggressive driver  passing everyone in front of me, accelerating quickly, braking quickly, and generally having a lot of fun with the car. Under those conditions, I typically get around 28-30 MPG in mostly rural driving. I use full synthetic oil in the car, by the way.

After I received a speeding ticket in the Elantra (first one in over 20 years), I decided to slow down a bit and also see if I can get better mileage doing so. By keeping my speed at or below 62, accelerating "modestly" up to speed, braking "modestly" as well (rather than waiting until the last second and stress-testing the disk brakes), and using the cruise control as often as possible, I've been consistently getting between 30 and 34 MPG. That makes sense...nothing surprising there. But I believe that the trick to getting the most out of the (relatively) small engine is to really be careful with acceleration and deceleration. When the car is up to speed, it appears to be pretty efficient. Yet when pressed to provide a lot of torque, I think the mileage drops significantly. My own experience bears that out. When I feather the throttle more than usual, I invariably get better mileage per tank.

So I think I have the hang of working the throttle and brakes for the best efficiency. Now, I'm checking tire pressure pretty often since the weather is getting quite a bit colder in Michigan and each degree of change will affect the pressures. Having good tires that don't lose air helps a lot (I'm using B.F. Goodrich Traction T/A H tires) but nearly every tire that is filled with air (rather than nitrogen or helium) will be affected by temps. I'm going with tire pressures somewhere between Hyundai's own recommendations (30 psi) and the max cold pressures stamped in the sidewalls of the tires (42 psi). Obviously, keeping those stiff tires at lower pressures will help with ride comfort, but will adversely affect mileage. So if I'm feeling cheap, I'll jack up the pressures by a few pounds. Normally, I run around 35.

Finally, colder weather means denser air. If I remember correctly, that means higher horsepower but lower mileage since the car has to push through a "thicker" air mass. I'll back off on the performance antics and see if I can still keep the MPG figures close to summer figures, but I think that's a losing battle. I'll probably be running around 28 MPG again.

Hope that helps a bit.

doohickie · September 2006

FYI, basic physics states that helium, nitrogen and *air* expand and contract at the same rate with respect to temperature. In cases, volume is directly proportional to temerature. Period.

The only advantage to nitrogen is that it leaks less readily than air.

That "volume is directly proportional to temperature" part is that same law of physics that confirms your denser air bit, though. Yes, there is more oxygen for combustion per unit volume at lower temperatures. I don't think the drag of the thicker air mass has a significant effect on mileage though. Oil companies use different gas formulations at different times of the year, though, and that may affect mileage.

A couple of quick questions for you: Is your Elantra AT or MT? Also, are you basing mileage on trip computer or hand calculations?

jvenezia · September 2006

I have an automatic 5-door GLS...no trip computer. Everything is calculated by hand. While I'm a university technology professor by trade, I don't trust computer technology all that much since I know quite a bit about it.

FYI, my statement about nearly all tires filled with air (rather than nitrogen or helium) being affected by temperatures was a bit misleading. A well-known fact about nitrogen-filled tires is that they react much more slowly to temperature changes than air due to the fact that the nitrogen contains far less moisture than air. Yes, they lose pressure much more slowly than air since rubber is less permeable to nitrogen than to air (nitrogen has larger molecules). But you're right: overall, the expansion doesn't change. What does change is the amount of expansion over time, which is lower with nitrogen and much less erratic. Is it worth up to $10 per tire to have them charged with nitrogen? It would be if you don't check your tires all that much. So I'm going to go check my tires right now since I have a long trip to make tomorrow morning.

pat · November 2006

This discussion has been reopened in accordance with this post: Sylvia, "Forums Software! Your Questions Answered..." #3319, 12 Nov 2006 2:43 pm.

janas23 · February 2008

I have a 2007 4-cylinder Hyundai Sonata. My checkups costs from the dealer have pretty been right on the money according to what they predict. My dealer in the Tidewater area of Virginia gives free oil changes and free state inspections for life. (Their labor charges are $95 per hour.) My 5,000 mi. checkups have been around $32-38. In the booklet, it does say that the 30,000 mi. checkup is a "biggie" and starts around $225. I asked the service manager after my 25,000 mi checkup last month the cost for the 30,000 mi. checkup and he quoted $518. This seems excessive to me. I will call them again before I take it in and check with another dealer as a basis...even at $95 per hour, how many hours of check up would this take and what is being replaced?
Thanks, Jackie

montana7 · June 2008

We are having trouble finding an Elantra in Montana.
We have a choice of Back with "black" leather interior,"purple rain" with black leather interior, or "dark gray" with dark gray FABRIC interior. Price range is about 1k more for Elantras with the leather interior. How to decide?

backy · June 2008

Really comes down to whether you like leather or cloth better and if leather is worth $1000 more to you. I have cars with both (including a 2004 Elantra with leather) and overall I prefer cloth, but some people swear by leather. One thing to note: is the grey Elantra with cloth an SE or GLS? If it's a GLS, then you might want to go for one of the SEs with leather since the SE has stability control.

montana7 · July 2008

Does anyone have the bluetooth option on their 2008 Elantra SE? Ours came with about everything but that option. It has on column controls for the XM and radio ect and LEATHER.

I just wonder how to get the factory option for bluetooth. :confuse:

backy · July 2008

There is no factory option for Bluetooth on the 2008 Elantra for the U.S. You might be able to find a dealer-installed Bluetooth unit, ala the one for the 2009 Sonata, or you could buy a portable GPS with Bluetooth.

aventura1 · August 2008

Yesterday, while driving my car to work, the check engine ligth came on. My Elantra has 93,500 miles and never had a problem with it until now. Went to a Hyundai dealer in Florida, and was told that the check engine light came on as a result of a hairline crack on the manifold and it would cost $403.56 plus tax to replace the manifold and gasket, plus an additional 133.46 plus tax for an O2 sensor on bank 1 if oxygen sensor is stuck when replacing the manifold.

I felt the dealer's service department was overcharging me for these repairs and therefore declined the repairs until able to do a little research. I am not sure if my vehicle was made before Jan 31, 2002 (to be covered by the recall as described in other posting in this forum).. My question(s) are:
1. Can I get a reliable replacement of the manifold and sensor for less than 571.92?
2. Or is this something I can do myself?
3. Are there other alternatives to replacing the manifold, such as welding?

Thanks for your assistance and advice...

backy · August 2008

The first thing to do is verify the car's manufacture date. It will be on a label on or near the driver's door, inside back edge (could be on the door jamb). No sense paying for the repair when it would be covered under the recall/extended warranty.

jlflemmons · August 2008

If you are the original owner of the car, it is covered under warranty. 10years, 100K miles.

And there was indeed a recall for that very problem. If the dealer keeps acting like a jerk, contact Hyundai.

monkeynuts · November 2008

I have a elantra 06 model with the hvt engine dose anyone else have a rattle when
they first start and if they take the revs up to about 1500 then let go sounds a bit
like a tappet. I noticed that they have gone to the c v v t engine now maybe there
was a problem. I am an ex mechanic but disabled now after car accident so I know
the noise is out of place.

pc2edmunds · February 2012

You can get a wheel lock club also. It is just another way to slow down the theft. If you do lost the club key, locksmith can unlock it. The 2012 Elentra GLS also has an engine immobilizer.

Hyundai Elantra 5-door

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