Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
GAM
I think a good many people learned the true meaning of P.O.S. from hondafreak today. He was all over the place with his spam posts.
LUBE SOLUTION FOR DOOR SEALS:
There is a product called SIL-GLYDE. It is MFG by AGS Co. in Muskegon, MI. I purchased it at a store called BiMart in Oregon.
I've been using it on my '01 Acura TL. It's amazing how well it works at getting rid of squeaks and rattles. It is clear and doesn't make a mess even if you brush up against it after applying. In the summer, an application lasts 2-3 months. In the winter, an application lasts the entire winter. Works great on the moon roof problems also. Makes the car as quiet as it was the day I bought it. There is a slight feel of sticking on the doors that aren't opened for a few days, but not bad at all. Silicone spray and Armour All products work too but never last more than a week. This isn't for the outside if your just looking at cleaning up the appearance of the black rubber.
Haven't needed to use it yet on my '02 Envoy (13,000 miles) and still going strong with only two minor problems. The gasket on the license plate pocket and the wild mirrors which were fixed with the re-programming solution.
tidester, host
Frank
Who knows about the injuries, i'm a little stiff, but i was so worried about the people in the other car that i told the medics to take care of them and to not worry about me.
I suspect you'll be stiff and sore for days - a checkup wouldn't hurt.
Steve, Host
Been problem free for a while, so maybe its just my turn - '02 Envoy XL SLT 02/02 build date.
- Proper Position and Installation of Roof Rack Cross Rails to Reduce Wind Noise.
#02-08-67-005 - (05/23/2002)
2002 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Utility Models (Trailblazer, Trailblazer EXT, Envoy, Envoy XL)
2002 Oldsmobile Bravada
Some of the above vehicles may exhibit wind noise related to the roof rack.In an effort to reduce wind noise, Engineering has identified a specific position and installation for the roof rack cross rails.
Beginning on September 6, 2001 the Trailblazer, Envoy, and Bravada were built with the roof rack cross rails installed in the reverse direction (arrows towards rear of vehicle).
Early calendar year 2002 the Trailblazer EXT and Envoy XL were built with the roof rack cross rails installed in the reverse direction (arrows towards rear of vehicle).
Early calendar year 2002 the directional arrows were removed from the cross rails on all models to eliminate any confusion as to which direction is correct.It has been found that some dealers are changing the direction of the cross rails thinking they were installed incorrectly.
To obtain the optimum position and installation of the roof rack cross rails that produce the least wind noise, use the following procedure:
If the cross rails have directional arrows, they should be installed in the reverse direction (arrows toward rear of vehicle). Remove the cross rails and rotate as necessary.
If the directional arrows are not present, installation can be verified by checking the location of the cross rail eyelets. When installed in the reverse direction, the cross rail eyelets will face the rear of the vehicle.Remove the cross rails and rotate as necessary.
Once the specified direction has been established, adjust the position of the cross rails, so that one cross rail is positioned at the rear most end of the vehicle. The other cross rail should then be positioned at approximately midpoint of the rear door glass.
I also noticed a wet carpet but didn't think much of it. It had been raining for a few days before hand. I accidently stumbled across the leak when I was running a power wire for my radar detector. I pulled off the trim on the left side "A" pillar(between drivers door and windshield inside of the truck)and got wet. The water was coming in from the top left hand corner of the windshield. My Dealership had a local glass guy come in and reseal that corner, it hasn't leaked since.
Last month, you listed your updates as:
"My TB was just updated with #12583548, #12583714, and #12583719."
Could you please post the descriptions of these? I have the hesitation problems like you did, but when I check on my VIN, I get a different set of available updates for mine. Or is the info that the website returns my current cal? Mine is a 2002 model, but none of your numbers are in my list.
Mine shows:
12579238 for new operating software
12583556 cal to correct cold idle fluctuation and warm hesitation
12583717 cal to correct cold start/shift problems
Thanks,
Dean
My VIN shows the
12579238 for new operating software
12583556 cal to correct cold idle fluctuation and warm hesitation
12583717 cal to correct cold start/shift problems
as described by DLARE
Those numbers however are the last entry made for each of the subsystems.
The OS system has only 238 upgrade.
The Engine calibration also lists a
12576999: engine calibration and
12579249: calibration to correct cold start idle surge and hesitation
Transmission has:
12573458: transmission and
12579259: new calibration to improve feel of 1-2 upshift
I also show under Speedometer calibration
09351579: speedometer calibration
Why do I show so many under a single subsystem??
Do I need to have them all done or only the latest under each cat?
Anyone know what the Speedometer calibration is about???
Would really appreciate someone explaining how this system is supposed to work
Frank
I fabricated a quick Rev.1 mount for now. So far, I love it.
http://www.timlauro.com/cars/trailblazer/modifications-page.html
Very good advice. You'd be a fool to insist on a program update for an area where you don't have a problem. What's the only direction that can take you? If there is no problem, it can't make it better, only worse.
"Check for veh. stalled out while on highway going 70 mph. Pulled over and waited 30 min and then re-started. Tried several time to start. Just cranking. Tech checked for codes found several. Advised by Tech Assist to replace PCM. Replaced PCM and re-programmed with correct calibrations."
Has anyone had a similar situation where their PCM was replaced and did it help? I did find where the NHTSA is investigating this situation and they seem to be focusing on a voltage problem with the ECAS that affects the PCM and causes the car to stall. Interestingly enough, the customer service person I dealt with said they really don't have a firm solution to this problem so there is a "slight" chance this could happen again. She said the new PCM should prevent it though. I would think that the NHTSA would be putting some pressure on GM to come up with a solution for such an obvious safety hazard. Any thoughts?
Previously, they replaced power steering pump and steering box. I have replaced both low beam bulbs three times each. My alternator was replaced. Window came off track. Rear wiper quit working. Seat upolstery unravelling.
Other than that, great ride. Can't wait to start paying for this stuff myself.
"Check for veh. stalled out while on highway going 70 mph. Pulled over and waited 30 min and then re-started. Tried several time to start. Just cranking. Tech checked for codes found several. Advised by Tech Assist to replace PCM. Replaced PCM and re-programmed with correct calibrations."
Has anyone had a similar situation where their PCM was replaced and did it help? I did find where the NHTSA is investigating this situation and they seem to be focusing on a voltage problem with the ECAS that affects the PCM and causes the car to stall. Interestingly enough, the customer service person I dealt with said they really don't have a firm solution to this problem so there is a "slight" chance this could happen again. She said the new PCM should prevent it though. I would think that the NHTSA would be putting some pressure on GM to come up with a solution for such an obvious safety hazard. Any thoughts?
You must have different gearing. I have the 3.42 posi-rear. The web site shows the latest available update. You need to bring your vehicle to the dealer for them to determine what calibration you currently have. My descriptions were:
12579238 Operating System
12579241 Cold Idle & warm hesitation
12579255 Cold start / shift prob.
12576358 Fan control
I have noticed a definite improvement in power and performance. Gas mileage has also improved.
My average commuting (combined city / hwy.)mileage is 18.5 mpg and I just came back from a long hwy. trip thru mountains etc. averaging around 75 mph and got 21.5mpg over 1000 miles.
I strongly recommend the recalibration if you are experiencing any hesitation, stalling, poor gas mileage, or lack of performance.
Regards,
Charlie
http://www.trailblazer.homestead.com/
Bought a 2002 2WD TB last April after posting 208,000 miles on a 95 Transport. Other than transmission issues, those were 208,000 terrific miles.
I now have 33,000 miles on my TB and just got the truck back from the dealer. The "Reaction Carrier" stripped and I was not able to drive the truck, let alone listen to the noise it made when shifting into any gear. It seems to run fine now, if not better than before, but wondered if this had happened to anyone else and if it may indeed lead into future transmission problems?
The other issues I have had are as follows:
- All the interior door seals have come away from the door frames. And the rear window leaks. Am scheduled to bring it in to have them fixed. My neighbor had a 2002 Avalanche and has had major problems with his seals.
- Once in a while I get what I have seen called Jet Engine Roar where the engine seems to race for a minute or two and then returns to normal. My normal mechanic ran this on his computer and came up with a Tech Service Bullitin stating it had to do with chips or debris clogging the 2-3 shift valve. Am having the dealer check this also, but expect this may have been resolved with the trans work just done.
- My major issue. I find that when I brake as I go over uneven surfaces, the truck doesn't hold (hops?) and the brakes don't seem to grab well. There is a noticable feel that something is not right with how the brakes are functioning. I also notice that if I drive over uneven surfaces on the highway at times I will get the sense that the truck is unstable? Does this make sense to anyone?
I drive 30,000 plus miles a year, and this is the first car/truck I have had this problem with. I guess I got spoiled. Maybe I shouldn't have gotten rid of the van! Otherwise, I do like the truck.
Comfortable (though power seats would have been nice), nice styling and though not the greatest the gas mileage is okay (about 20-22 highway).
Any help would be appreciated. In additon, is there a site for recall info on these vehicles?
Thanks!!
Has anyone switched to synthetic oil and noticed a decrease in gas mileage?
I switched from Pennzoil 5W30 to Mobile 1 %W30 about 700 miles ago and have had a decrease of about 5%. My driving has remained the same. I used the average mpg from 5,000 miles before I switched. It may take some time to improve, but I never expected a decrease. Has anyone experienced anything similar?
I hope this is the intent of this board - to share ideas that make our vehicles more enjoyable. My 2002 TB LTZ has been great, but I want better mpg. Any ideas how to get this?
Changing to Mobile 1 doesn't lighten the car at all. It still weighs over 4000 lbs.
Frank
I notice the ABS kickin' in when braking hard and there are ripples in the pavement that are making the wheel hop, I also fell the brake pedal vibrate at this time. This is all normal operation of the ABS system.
Your factory warranty is almost up and if you do have a brake problem ABS repair can be very expensive so get it checked now.
"- Once in a while I get what I have seen called Jet Engine Roar where the engine seems to race for a minute or two and then returns to normal. My normal mechanic ran this on his computer and came up with a Tech Service Bulletin stating it had to do with chips or debris clogging the 2-3 shift valve. Am having the dealer check this also, but expect this may have been resolved with the trans work just done."
The Roar people speak of is at first startup. It is the fan clutch fully engaged and only last a few minutes and if you drive during the Roar it feels like the truck has no power. BTW this Roar is normal and nothing to worry about. There is a TSB that addresses this, its strictly because of customer complaints.
First thing I noticed was a much smoother idle than before. All the other observations echo tblazed and sportbikenut's: much better grunt, better shift control, etc - though I won't be able to check mpg until this weekend.
I'm very glad I had this done. Now this baby runs as good as my Honda ST1100 cycle! Well...maybe not, but a little closer anyway.
Deano
What p*&&&s me off is that dealers don't tell you that you can order the glass and the lens separately. They all insist that the whole assembly is needed. BTW, some people on this board insisted on that too.
Anyone have instructions on how to replace the mirror glass adn the lens? The parts guys only send the parts, no instructions!
-------------------
Part #'s below are for Triplets 2002 w/RPO D25 and 2003 w/RPO DS3. RPO label can be found in the glove box.
Complete R/S Mirror Assy. pn# 15097471 $187.46
Lens on Mirror R/S - pn# 88944062 $12.00
Mirror Kit R/S (Glass)- pn# 88937195 $36.58
Actuator L/S R/S (Motor) - pn# 88944479 $97.93
rj123456 when you post and ask for part#'s it helps when you give all the info(year,make and model)as parts do vary depending on options. You can purchase these parts at ANY GM Dealership.If you do contact a Dealer have your VIN# ready and let them look up the part#'s for you.
Some people here post unbelievable mileage of 28 mpg. I suspect they are going one way on a trip, mostly down hill.
I write:
No down hill, just the New York State Thruway. Outside temp 70 degrees and no air. Believe it or not, I don't care. I have nothing to prove and nothing to gain.
Mirror Lens Replacement - Turn Signal
Removal Procedure
1.Carefully move the outside rear view mirror (ORVM) assembly forward in order to gain access to the lens retaining screw (1) located underneath the assembly, near the pivot point.
2.Remove the lens retaining screw.
3.Remove the lens from the ORVM assembly.
4.Remove the socket and the lamp from the lens by turning the socket counterclockwise.
5.If replacing the bulb, remove the bulb from the socket.
Installation Procedure
Well if you got this far I think you'll be able to figure it out
Mirror Face Replacement
1.To remove the non-electrochmic glass, manually tilt the top edge of the glass away from the mirror housing in order to gain access to the retaining tab located behind the glass.
2.Using a flat-bladed tool, carefully release the upper tab (1) that retains the glass to the actuator while simultaneously tilting the glass away from the mirror housing.
3.Partially remove the glass from the mirror assembly
4.Disconnect the 2 heated mirror connectors from the glass, if equipped.
5.Remove the glass from the mirror assembly.
Installation Procedure
1.Position the glass to the mirror assembly.
2.Connect the 2 heated mirror connectors to the glass, if equipped.
3.Carefully attach the glass to the actuator by pushing the glass into the actuator, ensuring the upper (1) and lower retaining tabs are fully seated.
4.Verify proper operation of the mirror assembly.
Here's a link the see two pics. One for lens removal and one for glass removal.
http://photos.msn.com/viewing/album.aspx?m7A!X9U3q6bynoZEhFj0U9rW- - - - kOqLAFaoXv9e2QbpL!I0SSKmm5iulunhAIMThZbga!DHyGN2EeiDl8wR8*NXkrbUj- - - - 30LCC4zTFkWqrexu8ShzVrM73CZgw$$
BTW Your Welcome
Frank
Why do you refill as you have stated,"I go Buffalo to Rochester and Rochester to Syracuse. I fill up right before I get on and the second I get off.
I write(rather sheepishly):
Because my around town mileage is as bad as the sticker says. Around town I get 16 or 17 like everyone else. I am always curious as to true highway mileage, thats why I fill up before and after getting on the Thruway. Sort of a best case scenario. I am going on a 3 day business trip next week and will report my strictly highway miles MPG after that.
He writes:
I'm sorry if you were offended.
I write:
No problem. I wanted everyone to know I wasn't making it up.
Signed
A fellow past Blazer/old style Trailblazer sufferer. (Pesky On Star) as Tidester would say
They also replace the loose baffles in the front quarter panels and front passenger seat belt that would lock up. I'm very happy with the dealer this time. Sure wish we knew how they were making the Buick Raninier so much quieter....
Not quite the performance of the ST. But just try towing a 5K # trailer with it! BTW, I'm pining after the 1300... maybe soon.
BTW Nyuyorkah, thanks again for the mirror installation instructions!--
#10740 of 10971 FOG LIGHTS for LS by previousamigo Mar 31, 2003 (12:27 pm)
I found a factory set of fogs on the internet from a salvage place (totaled TB but front still good) and purchased them for about $200.
I checked my LS and it doesn't seem GM was kind enough to use the same wiring harness for the front lights as the LT. So were going to have to add our own wiring to install the factory fogs. You also have to fabricate your own bracket to hold the fog lamps in place in the bumper.
Searching the shop manuals, it appears the data stream is there, just the read-out system is missing. Looks like it is the four switches on the steering wheel to manipulate the system and the actual system itself which is located in the Instrument Panel.
Can I change the instrument panel, add some pushbutton switches and get this feature?
Paul P