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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

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Comments

  • medolarkmedolark Member Posts: 93
    You said:

    "Mine has the locking diff and doe not do it."

    I'm not suggesting that all vehicles with a locking differential will have this problem. Mine never did until about 3 months ago (after about 24K miles).

    You said:

    "It behaves just like a normal open diff until there is enough speed difference (about 200 rpm) between the two rear wheels to engage the locking mechanism."

    Right, but clearly, the thing is a mechanical device that needs to react to slippage in some way to lock up. There must be some sort of clutch type mechanism in there and I am suggesting that might have something to do with it.

    You said:
    "and if you are going over 20 mph it won't engage anyway. ":

    Right, but what does that have to do with a "stutter/clunk" that occurs while stopped?
  • pepper50pepper50 Member Posts: 195
    ylab wrote:
    anybody who's had the obnoxious clacking/ticking that sounds like a bad lifter should definitely try changing oil! I've had the noise since the dealer performed my first complimentary oil change and switching to 10W30 Mobil1 only made matters worse. Switched to 5W30 semi-synthetic and the noise has all but subsided within about a week of the change. (Apparently these engines HATE 10W30 oil even in the heat of summer....I'm thinking the dealer used 10W30 and not 5W30 on my first change).

    For my first oil change on my '02 Envoy, I noticed on the receipt that the dealer used 10W30 engine oil, so I asked about it, and he said that's what GM recommends the dealers use in all the Envoys in this area (North Texas.) I called 2-3 other dealers around here and was told the same thing. I don't know why they don't use the 5W30 like the oil cap states. I have a feeling it's because it's cheaper for them to buy 10W30 in bulk. So that's what the dealer has been putting in for subsequent oil changes, too. Maybe it's because of the southern climate here.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    "It behaves just like a normal open diff until there is enough speed difference (about 200 rpm) between the two rear wheels to engage the locking mechanism."

    'Right, but clearly, the thing is a mechanical device that needs to react to slippage in some way to lock up. There must be some sort of clutch type mechanism in there and I am suggesting that might have something to do with it.'

    That mechanical device in the locking mechanism works from the >200 rpm difference in axle speeds to engage. Otherwise it is not engaged.

    You said:
    "and if you are going over 20 mph it won't engage anyway. ":

    'Right, but what does that have to do with a "stutter/clunk" that occurs while stopped?'

    Several times I have read it described as happening after coasting down to a stop from highway speed, or certainly from a >20 mph speed, and then getting the stutter-clunk. It would not be engaged from 1) highway or >20 mph speeds and 2)not be engaged unless the rear wheels were spinning 200 rpm or more differential speed, like one stopped, and the other spinning. Even if you locked the diff starting off from a stop, as soon as you get over 20 mph it will disengage.

    Just don't see how anything in a locking differential could store up enough energy to cause a stutter-clunk to be felt through the drive train and vehicle after a stop.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    I use 10W-30 Quaker State and no problem. Above 0°F the owners manual says 10W-30 is OK. Did go back to 5W-30 for the winter though. 5W-30 will flow a little more easily cold, in the winter months.

    The main difference between the two is the viscosity when cold. When cold the 5W-30 will flow like a cold 5 weight oil, the 10W-30 like a cold 10 weight oil, and when hot, both like hot 30 weight oil.

    I noticed when I put in 10W-30 the cold engine noise was slightly reduced. So I use 10W-30 for my spring and summer oil changes, 5W-30 for the winter change. Same brand.
  • medolarkmedolark Member Posts: 93
    I suppose there are lots of variations of this theme, but IMHO there is nothing about it that should be considered "normal". Therefore, the "normal functions of the locking differential have nothing to do with the possibility that abnormal behavior from this device could be the source of the "stutter/clunk". I'm still interested in whether those who experience the problem also have locking differential.

    If people who do not have locking differential also have this "disease" then I will shut up about it possibly being the cause.
  • ficussficuss Member Posts: 541
    the same clunk heard and felt when you go from reverse to drive too quickly? Sometimes when I go from reverse to drive, it seems like the tranny shifts to second gear instead of first. When I accelerate, it starts off slowly then drops into first. The clunk it makes sounds like a drive train lag or something similar. The only time my TB has shuddered is when it was running very warm or near hot and the RPM's suddenly dropped to nearly zero and back up to 600 rpm. Recently, if I make a very sharp turn while parking, the engine will surge to the point where if my foot isn't on the break, I would probably jump the curb or into traffic. Does this sound anything like the shudder or clunk being described?

    BTW, is CLUNK even a word?

    Frank
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    BTW, is CLUNK even a word?

    Yes. As a noun: A heavy dull sound (as made by impact of heavy objects)

    And, as a verb: Make or move along with a sound as of a horse's hooves striking the ground

    tidester, host
  • ylabylab Member Posts: 46
    My '02 doesn't have the locking differential and it exhibits the shudder/clunk occasionally. (Its an SLT with only a radio upgrade, no other options.....so no auto-locking Diff).

    Other than the shudder and some very minor valvetrain noise, which I've noticed in every overhead cam engine I've owned, no real complaints and very happy after nearly two years of ownership. Admittedly, I've massaged the vehicle a bit with CAI, JetChip and K&N Filter as well as a Denali grill, bug shield, weatherflectors, rear step hitch, mud flaps & rear wing.

    Anybody have experience with side tubes? Will they block the debris which the flaps miss or do I need to go with running boards? (Those black tubes look so much nicer on a white truck).

    Thanks,
    Ray
  • gam2gam2 Member Posts: 316
    Guys,

    No one seems to be mentioning the driveshaft yoke
    binding. As you stop, the rearend raises up and the yoke slides in and out. If it's binding, it probably slips the other direction under acceleration. It may just do it at a rest. Seems to me this is a common problem with pickup trucks.

    GAM
  • twinrottstwinrotts Member Posts: 161
    Here's a question where I think the answer is rather intuitive, but want to ask anyway.
    Checking tire pressure on a spare vs checking pressure as the tire supports the truck. I would expect that a spare with 30# of air will gauge higher once mounted on the truck.
    Sort of like a balloon that gets squeezed. The pressure rises in another section and forces the ballon to extend.
  • offroad57offroad57 Member Posts: 11
    took the 04 tb.for an rpm test,sticker says 3.73 diff.at 2000 rpm in a level stretch of highway.speed was 65 mph.70 mph.2200 rpm.doesn't have the pulling power of the 02 i had,dont know what the problem could be.dealer will find out or they will see me every other day.
  • kpp14kpp14 Member Posts: 62
    BTW, is CLUNK even a word?

    "Yes. As a noun: A heavy dull sound (as made by impact of heavy objects)"

    Tidester, you can be the keeper of the "New Sounds of GM" dictionary. Heres a new one we can put beside clunk. What should we call the sound your forehead makes rapidly tooting the horn after trying to describe the clunk problem to the dealer?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Would that be "slapdash?" ;-)

    tidester, host
  • iexplore2000iexplore2000 Member Posts: 237
    I'm telling ya.. I am not a mechanic here, but my previous posting (13305) describes a fairly identical issue that was had on the 1999 - 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limiteds.

    The posting references the slip yokes and I pretty much can guarantee that if the triplets have a slip yoke on them (to which I am sure that they do), this is the problem at hand! My 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V-8 did the EXACT same thing as what we are experiencing. Mine in addition to a multitude of other JGC owners had experienced the same issues at hand.

    I haven't checked, but if this forum holds archives dating back to 1999, you can search the JGC forum for "Slip Yoke" and you will find the exact same problem as what we are describing..

    Just my two cents..

    Thanks!

    IExplore2000
  • iexplore2000iexplore2000 Member Posts: 237
    Tidester Host,

    Here's a suggestion for you to which I would like to gainer support from the group.

    Since there has been numerous issues about this forum becoming a playground for complaints, I propose the following:

    * Similar to the Honda Accord forum (and many others), I suggest that you FREEZE this topic of discussion and create two new ones! You could possibly create the following:

    1) 2002+ Chevy Trailblazer, GMC Envoy, Oldsmobile Bravada Problems (maybe include Buick Ranier, Isuzu Ascendor)

    2) 2002+ Chevrolet Trailblazer, GMC Envoy, Oldsmobile Bravada (maybe include Isuzu Ascendor and Buick Ranier)

    I honestly believe that this will help to keep the topics of discussion more focused to everyone's liking so that if they are 100% problem free with their vehicle, they can simply focus on posting messages to the "rants and raves" side of the forum (and vice-versa for those who have experienced "perpetual woes.")?

    In my opinion, I think that this is a very "active" forum and that's wonderful. Heck.. we are already nearing 14 THOUSAND postings people!!. However, there needs to be some sort of separation to help keep the topics more "focused" and to help keep the general audience happy. For example, I've been considering the new Honda Accord Coupe as a second car and found it QUITE pleasant to venture over to that particular forum and spend time reading the good and the bad... more so, educating myself in an unbiased way! Perhaps the "happy" forum can focus on more pleasant items such as: modifications, upgrades, accolades, "how to's (i.e. changing a light bulb)," etc. The "problems" forum can continue working collaboratively/effectively as we all do so well to help resolve/get answers to the problems at hand?

    Just food for thought... All those who agree TYPE EYE! :-)

    Thanks!

    IExplore2000

    OH.. and let's not forget.. to keep things clean and searchable, delete those discussion threads that were created and contain less than 10 postings!!
  • iexplore2000iexplore2000 Member Posts: 237
    EYE!

    ;-)
  • medolarkmedolark Member Posts: 93
    ylab - thanks for the info.

    Iexplore/Gam2 -

    Slip yoke explanation seems to fit pretty well, but in my case I can pull up to a light and while I am sitting there, I feel this very light thump effect. Further, it sometimes repeats maybe two or three more times if I just sit there. The repititions even seem to be regularly spaced apart. These effects were what made me think something might be going on in the rear axle. It seems to me that friction release in the yoke would happen just once and it would be all over. But again, in my case, the effects are very mild. Many people probably wouldn't notice it.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    How about keeping this one and creating a "Trailblazer, Envoy, Bravada Problems and Solutions Board" or somesuch? That would result in less confusion for people who participate here and would be easier to redirect people to the problems & solutions area.

    All in favor indicate with AYE and opposed with NAY! I thought I just heard Iexplore volunteer to keep count? :-)

    tidester, host
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    Why add another? There are already 23 titles including (edited) "Strange noise behind dash", "Transmission Problems", "Vibration 40-65 mph", "02 Trailblazer AWD problem", "Air conditioning problems", "Any battery problems after vehicle sits?", and "Air Noise" among others. No one goes to those topics. Look at the numbers of postings to each topic and see for yourself which one gets the most response. Some are read only now, likely due to lack of response.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    RE message 13326, I had asked if the stutter-clunk is happening with 2WD, 4WD, or both, and will add locking or not locking diff to the question. Haven't seen any answers to the first part yet.

    Does anyone with this problem notice if the RPM is briefly dropping below the normal 600 when this happens?

    BTW speaking of words, "studder" is not a valid word, "stutter" is. As per Dictionary.com anyway. "Clunk" is also valid word.
  • tripicchiotripicchio Member Posts: 10
    I own an 02 Envoy, with about 36K on the odometer...I recently noticed a "rubbing" noise apparently comming from the steering column at low, parking lot speeds. The dealer applied some type of lubricant to the steering column, claiming this would stop the problem....needless to say, the noise is still there...has anyone else had this problem? If so, what was the solution..thanks
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Organization is a bit of a problem sometimes. We also have a Chevrolet Trailblazer Owners Club to muddy up the waters with.

    But most makes/models have a general board and a problems/solutions board. They grow in size, but the Discussion Search function makes it easy enough to find specific problem threads.

    Anyone interesed in the new version of DOD? "On a 15-minute drive, the TrailBlazer V-8 switched between four and eight cylinders more than 40 times without hesitation." USA Today

    Steve, Host
  • seifordseiford Member Posts: 68
    '03 Envoy, 4WD, locking diff, 3.73 gears.

    RPMS do NOT fluctuate when stutter occurs.
  • lurker01lurker01 Member Posts: 103
    I posted this a while back, but will again to add my $0.02.

    Clunk felt from undercarriage when stopped at intersection.
    Steps to reproduce: Truck must be cold. Start truck and drive short distance (<.25 miles) to a stop sign or intersection. Wait at intersection for ~1 min. You will feel a clunk or series of clunks from the lower rear of the truck. Feels like the car behind you didn&#146;t stop in time and tapped your bumper! Could be some sort of binding problem in the rear differential or other mechanical connection. After driving a few minuets and stopping again, the problem does not reoccur. However, the next time the truck is cold, the same thing will happen. Could it be a lubrication issue in some part that occurs after truck sits awhile?

    The service tech said: Normal Behavior.

    I have given up on this on and just live with it. I'm out of warrentee now anyway, so I can't go complain about every little thing anymore. Barring a recall fix, I don't see this going away.
  • boat10boat10 Member Posts: 59
    took delivery this past Saturday of my wife's new "BABY". Here's one for you.....Ordered on Saturday, October 25th, build date was November 3rd, shipped on November 5th, dealer received vehicle on November 12th, and paper work done Saturday November 15th. Friend purchased 2002 Trailblazer (I had leased) for his wife....Everybody HAPPY !!!!

    I'll have to say the 2004 drives a lot different than the 2002..stiffer sway bars, etc. Got 4WD, Silverstone with medium gray interior (LOOKS GOOD!), black wall tires, Bright Alum. wheels, leather, sun roof, DIC, running boards, 3.73 rear end, locking diff. ALL the GOODIES.
  • iexplore2000iexplore2000 Member Posts: 237
    I agree with tblazed's comments about the number of forums, however that's why I am proposing that we go through and "archive (or make READ ONLY)" those triplet forums which have been deemed inactive and in turn create either two new ones as mentioned in my previous posting (one to include "Problems and Solutions" and another to include general information "Rants and Raves, How To's Etc."). For the most part, out of all the triplet discussion threads, people tend to realize that this thread is the "alpha" thread and switch over to it. If you don't believe that this is working, check out the Honda Accord threads.. They have several that are very active (Honda Accord, Honda Accord: Prices Paid & Buying Experinces, Honda Accord: Problems & Solutions) and each thread stays very focused to the discussion thread's subject. Most importantly, it's very easy to read and the conversations seem to flow a little better in these types of threads.

    Obviously, if a previous thread only has 4 or 5 postings and seems to be inactive, ARCHIVE it and steer discussion to the new threads. I think that this will help to clear the waters for those searching for active threads. OR.. as Tidester mentioned, keep this one going and start a new thread for "problems and solutions."

    BUT.. IMOP I somehow feel that it would be better to just archive this thread (along with others) and create two new ones. This will allow us to start fresh so that new comers can clearly choose a thread to surf without getting a "skewed" vision that the triplets are nothing but trouble.

    Just my two cents!

    Thanks,

    IExplore2000

    ALL IN FAVOR.. TYPE: EYE! And yes I will keep count! :-)
  • ficussficuss Member Posts: 541
    I believe my G.M. mechanics are pretty smart. But, if I go in and tell them my car is stuttering or studdering, should I be surprised if they can't duplicate the problem? Now if I tell him the car has a shudder or that the car shudders at a certain speed, he may have a better chance of duplicating the problem. I think we should be as specific and accurate as possible when describing a problem.
     On the topic of possible additional forums, lets keep what we have now. If you have something to say, say it here. That way, we can all read the good, the bad, and the indifferent. I don't mind reading about mud flaps and lift kits even though I have no interest in either.
     
    Frank
  • envoyownerenvoyowner Member Posts: 42
    Exactly how my 02 SLT behaves (24K miles)and -
    Exactly what the tech told me: Normal Behavior

    re: 13348 of 13354 STEERING "rubbing noise?" by tripicchio

    Yep, I've noticed this too and the tech reported doing the same. However....it's still there. Feels, like you said, a "rubbing" or resistance in the steering column.
  • ficussficuss Member Posts: 541
    Infiniti G35 has several forums to comment on. I have found that the people who have something they want you to read will post it on both the generic G35 and on the more specific G35 problems and solutions board. This only wastes time when reading the comments. Besides, where would you post a question about mud flaps, on the generic or the problems and solutions board?

    Frank
  • scottc454scottc454 Member Posts: 356
    I guess I'm a NAY too. If you create a separate forum for problems, you'll get less solutions to problems there. A lot of times people who read this forum come across a problem and offer a possible solution, when they wouldn't normally browse a forum that is meant only for problems and solutions.
         Most folks have no problem offering a solution to a post if they're already there browsing that forum, but you can't expect people to go out of their way. I don't see myself ever waking up and thinking "Gee, I'm going to go out and solve some random people's triplet problems today."
  • jac27jac27 Member Posts: 15
    Tripiccio, I had the same noise...I would call it "groaning" with my Bravada. It would happen when turning sharply, usually in parking lots, and got to the point where I needed a lot of gas to just move, especially in reverse. This is a known problem. Unfortunately, I don't remember what the exact problem was, but mine was fixed under warranty. Have your dealer check the tsb's. It might even be a recall.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I think the Problems boards work pretty well, although some people feel like they have to cross-post into the alpha board.

    As far as the little discussions, they should auto archive on their own after a few weeks of inactivity. We try to catch most of them when they start and redirect the posters to a more active board too, but some slip by.

    Steve, Host
  • medolarkmedolark Member Posts: 93
    Tblazed- I have 4wd, 3.73 locking rear axle and very mild form of stutter/clunk. I have never noticed any variation in rpm during these events (or any other time - my idle rpm is rock solid at 600).

    Nay- I'm not interested in checking several different boards to see what is new or what other people are experiencing - whether it is good, bad or whatever.
  • twinrottstwinrotts Member Posts: 161
    I convinced myself to change the tranny fluid and replace with Amsoil.
    Calling around today including my dealer, I find that Jiffy Lube is the only place where they said they could but 14 qts of Amsoil into their equipment and use it to purge out the stock fluid.
    Pep boys also offered the power flush but said they had no way to use my oil as their system is preload with a specified fluid.
    Anyone think that J Lube really can do what they claim?
    I really want to use the Amsoil but dropping the pan alone might get only 40% of the oil.
    Even if J can do as they say, what % of the remaining oil really would be new vs dumping the new oil at $9 per Qt???
  • quickdtooquickdtoo Member Posts: 266
    I used the Amsoil procedure listed on their web site to flush my own, works great and you can't beat the price.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    So far looks like all the stutter-clunkers are 4WD. Anyone experiencing this with a 2WD?
  • redline65redline65 Member Posts: 693
    I've got a 2WD Envoy XL with 3.73 gears and locking rear axle, and I've never experienced any of these stutter-clunk issues you guys are talking about.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    Hosts, you might consider adding another discussion title in the future for the upcoming DOD V8 models, so that those postings won't overwhelm this discussion group when they hit the market next year!

    As far as interest in Displacement on Demand, I guess I will never get a chance to buy a short wheelbase Trailblazer with a regular V8. IMO the 8% gain in mpg that GM claims for the DOD system isn't worth the mechanical-electrical complexity, potential for long term reliablity issues and high service costs. Should be interesting anyway, to see if GM has managed to make it work after a 20+ year hiatus.
  • iexplore2000iexplore2000 Member Posts: 237
    Ok... thus far there has only been a few votes to create two new threads. Although we didn't receive an overwhelming response from everyone on this, it looks as if the general consensus is NAY?

    If everyone's happy with this one thread then I am happy... BUT.. the next time someone whines and cries that we are "complaining too much" on this thread, then we need to gang up and infiltrate the PC with some sort of virus preventing them from accessing this site!

    I am kidding... but not really... ;-)

    Also, in response to tblazed's comments on adding a new triplet DOD thread... probably not a good idea.. Seems as if everyone wants to see this thread hit the 20K postings mark, so the YAY'ers probably suggest that we keep it here?

    My two cents..

    Thanks!

    IExplore2000
  • ross1962_99ross1962_99 Member Posts: 48
    "IMO the 8% gain in mpg that GM claims for the DOD system isn't worth the mechanical-electrical complexity, potential for long term reliablity issues and high service costs"
     
    I wholeheartedly agree! Look at who is having the most problems on this board. It's the ones with all the gizmos!
  • scottc454scottc454 Member Posts: 356
    Yeah, but the question is, what is the mechanical-electrical complexity? Isn't it just a matter of not firing an injector? Injector firing is already controlled by the computer, so it seems that it could just be a software issue of detecting when to not fire certain injectors under certain conditions - simple!

    The fact that it was a failure 20 years ago doesn't mean it can't succeed now.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    The mechanical-electrical part will be the constant activation de-activation going on with the valve train by multiple solenoids controlled by the computer to either allow the cylinders to take in air-fuel mix and expel the exhaust gasses, or remain closed when not in use.

    From a GM web page article: "With two valves per cylinder, only two actuators per cylinder are needed".

    "The solenoid control valve assembly contains electronic control valves or solenoids that direct the feeding or withdrawal of high pressure oil to the lifters in a sequenced manner. Engine oil flows to the solenoids from oil passages in the cylinder block and (based on the position of the solenoid valve) either activates the valve lifter (enabling normal V-8 valvetrain operation) or deactivates the lifter (disabling the valvetrain), allowing the engine to operate in 4-cylinder mode."

    Lots of things should be successful now that aren't. I hope it will work for GM this time. Certainly they have had plenty of R&D time to work out the bugs. But I don't think I want to be one of the guinea pigs to find out. Time will tell.
  • twinrottstwinrotts Member Posts: 161
    Found another option today for changing out the tranny fluid.
    It was suggested that I have the pan dropped and after draining the oil, a hole would be tapped into the torque converter to drain its oil. Cooler lines would be opened to allow that fluid to drain.
    Mechanic said this would drain 95% of the old fluid.
    I am not sure I like the idea of drilling and tapping the torque converter.
    Anyone have this done??
    If I ever lost the tranny, my guess is altering the TC would invalidate any warrantee I might have
  • ficussficuss Member Posts: 541
    may not be such a good idea. A comparable part would be the oil pan. The drain in the pan is not simply drilled and tapped. I believe there is more bulk at the drain point. Possibly a tapped drain that is welded to the pan. If the mechanic could install a bulkier drain and weld it to the converter it might be workable. It sounds like he wants to drill a hole and install a self tapping metal screw to hold in the fluid. If so, I don't think this would fly. Besides, the converter would not be balanced after the plug is added. Since the converter spins at the same speed as the engine, it must be balanced.

    Frank
  • quickdtooquickdtoo Member Posts: 266
    You mean you'd rather drill a hole in the converter than just disconnect a cooler line to drain the converter? I've been turnin' wrenches for over 40 yrs and that sounds a bit extreme. I do recommend drilling a hole in the tranny pan and installing a drain plug, makes future changes a lot easier and cleaner, B&M makes a kit for ~$7. The fluid drain procedure from Amsoil doesn't involve any technical expertise, the fluid pressure is very low, maybe a gallon a minute at most.
  • twinrottstwinrotts Member Posts: 161
    I think the Amsoil method sounds the best. My only question is how much of the old fluid is really replaced vs the possible mixing that happens as you add in the new fluid while flushing the old.
    I can't imagine that you are getting only the old out while pumping it through to the cooler lines.
    Should I plan on actually using some extra Amsoil with the intent of draining say 15 quarts from a 13 qt system?
  • medolarkmedolark Member Posts: 93
    I had a 74 Chevy on which the trans cooler inside the radiator failed allowing water to get into the trans. (It didn't work so hot that way). After replacing the radiator unit, I went to my friendly transmission shop and asked how I could get all the water out of the trans. They suggested drill and tap the converter, drain everything, fill with cheap trans fluid, run for about 500 miles, drain and refill with good stuff. I did exactly as they suggested (did it all myself). Put another 100k on the vehicle with no transmission problems at all. The thing was running fine when I traded it.

    I asked about whether doing this would affect crankshaft balance. Their reply was that when you drill out the converter you are removing metal. Putting the plug in replaces the metal. Sure, there are probably small differences in weight, but apparently not enough to matter. Also, the converter is thick enough (as I recall from ~25 years ago, it was about 1/4 inch or so) that threading it is not a problem.

    Now, I am no professional mechanic, and take no responsibility if you wish to do this. I can only tell you that I have done it and didn't have any problems.
  • rjt2rjt2 Member Posts: 3
    I always use ac delco oil filters on my 2003 Trail Blazer,the owners manual has part no.pf58.But I went to my chevy dealer and he says that part no. has been changed to pf52 has anyone else run into this..
  • scottc454scottc454 Member Posts: 356
    Why all the work? Drilling and tapping the torque convertor would be a major pain. Then you'll probably end up with some metal fillings in the fluid.

    I know places charge a fortune to change transmission fluid, but just how often do you plan on doing that? I've got 54,000 miles and haven't even thought about changing the fluid.
    I'll do it at 100,000 and then again at 200,000. If it goes out after that, I don't care so much.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    Your dealer is wrong. PF58 gets replaced with a PF61.

    My S-10 uses a PF52, TB a PF58. I have one of each here. The PF52 has a different size threaded hole (5/8") vs. the PF58 (3/4") that screws onto the engine. PF52 will not fit on a 4.2 I6.
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