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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

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Comments

  • imadad2imadad2 Member Posts: 79
    To boost sales, GM is once again cutting prices. They are now offering employee pricing on all vehicles except the Corvette and GMC medium duty trucks. So, for those of you who have been wanting to buy a new Chevrolet Trailblazer/GMC Envoy, here is your chance. They are also offering incentives on top of that.

    I have a couple thoughts on this and I hope it pays off for GM, but I don't think it will. First off, GM has improved quality, but they are still behind the quality of several competitors. By selling vehicles that don't work like they should, they will further lose customers. Also, the prices they are offering now are going to make more people hold off for that "big discount" instead of buying earlier in the year.

    GM is starting to look desperate. I am now kicking the idea around of buying another vehicle. I'd like to buy another TB, but will the wife want to drive our 2004 or our 2005? We will see ...
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    I took my 02 TB in to have the tires rotated and looked over the brakes and they are not even half worn with 67,000 miles on them! Pretty darn good! Other SUV's I have owned are lucky to get 40,000 miles on brakes. I am getting ready for a 1500 mile trip, so I am going ahead with replacing the serpentine belt this weekend. I may get the tranny serviced for the first time too, but the book says to service the tranny at 100,000 miles.

    -gmfan
  • m1icemanm1iceman Member Posts: 11
    Well got the truck into my mechanic and the news was a $350 hit for the replacement. Since my truck is out of warranty, Im lucky to have a mechanic I trust. When he called me to quote the price, he told me the local Chevy dealer, where he had to get the part, had to replace about 15 in the month of May alone. He also told me the part number had been changed by Chevy, cough, recall, cough! Well anyway, its getting fixed and I wanna thank posters for their responses. I love my TB, but its getting expensive to fix.
  • bigsexybigsexy Member Posts: 5
    I WAS WONDERING IF ANY ONE EXPERIANCED ANY PROBLEMS WITH THEIR ENVOYS OR TRAILBLAZERS IN THE CHARGING SYSTEM. THE VEHICLE IS NOT CHARGING PROPERLY AND THE RPM ARE IDLEING AT 500. WHICH IS VERY LOW. DEALER SAYS ITS NORMAL BUT I CANT BELIVE THAT. THANKS FOR ANY HELP
  • bigsexybigsexy Member Posts: 5
    HAS ANYBODY PUT AN EXTRA CHARGING SYSTEM IN THEIR ENVOY OR TRAILBLAZER. IF YOU HAVE PLEASE LET ME KNOW HOW.
    THANKS
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I recommend turning off your CAPS LOCK. People tend to ignore messages typed in ALL CAPS.

    tidester, host
  • ross1962ross1962 Member Posts: 229
    One of the sensors is plugged into the exhaust pipe and it should not be that difficult to change.

    It's not difficult, but a special socket is needed that has a slot for the wire.
  • ross1962ross1962 Member Posts: 229
    ... AND THE RPM ARE IDLEING AT 500. WHICH IS VERY LOW.

    You're right - it's too low. I'd take it to a different dealer.
  • sstradersstrader Member Posts: 15
    I have an 02 Envoy and have not been plagued by many of the issues that have come up on this forum. I have about 41K miles, use Mobil 1exclusively, do not have an engine slap issue that I can detect.
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    I did an oil change last weekend and put in that new Mobil 10 W-30 they are marketing and guaranteed to be a good performer for 5,000 miles. I have only had it in the vehicle for a 100 miles and I cannot tell a noticeable difference. I still have a slight tapping after the vehicle has sat overnight. Again, I only hear mine if I turn off the blower fan and radio and listen for it (again, it is a slight clank, clank, clank for a minute or so) Are you using Mobil coventinial oil, blended synthetic, or full synthetic? Thanks for the input.

    -gmfan
  • champton488champton488 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Envoy XL, and am having problems with the rear A/C. I had taken my Envoy in for the GMC dealership to look at this problem. See article # 15825. I took it in during the winter. Now since it is spring/summer I am having the same problem. Now the rear A/C blower has come on by itself and keeps running until I do 1 of 2 things, 1. Turn on the rear A/C or 2. Shut off my Envoy. The bad thing is now it blows really hot air; unless I turn on the A/C then it blows cold air. I can't see always running my A/C to prevent this, especially with high gas prices. So has anyone else experienced this problem? If so what is the fix. I have another appointment to take my Envoy in on Tuesday and would love some fire power. Thanks for all your help.

    Cary :confuse:
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    The idle should be in the 700-800 RPM range. What is your voltage reading...top right instrument with battery icon? Is it stable or does it flunctuate? I had a battery leak a year ago and it wreaked havoc on the computer causing hard transmisson shift and my voltage and idle was off.

    -gmfan
  • bigsexybigsexy Member Posts: 5
    it is a little fluctual. thanks for the imput. i will look into this solution. appreciate the feedback..
  • bigsexybigsexy Member Posts: 5
    Did you rectify the problem and how??? Please if you could let me know. Thanks
  • bigsexybigsexy Member Posts: 5
    I put in 61/2 mb quartz in my envoy. You have to modify the speaker holder to place them into the holder. There was a lot of custom work put into it but it is totaly woth it. If your gonna put speakers in buy quartz they are much better then infinity. I used to have the kappas and the quartz blow them away. any questions feel free to ask.
  • twinrottstwinrotts Member Posts: 161
    I have been running full synthetic Mobil 1 for a couple of years in the 4.2 but have the piston slap. Goes away in a coupe of minutes.
    This is probably the tightest engine I've ever owned as it has never needed oil added between changes and with the synthetic I go 7K or more.
    I ususally watch the oil change reading in the DIC and allow it to reach 40% or so
  • blink3blink3 Member Posts: 74
    Anyone with one of these out there? Looks sweet, with the 5.3 in the standard (short) Envoy, it should scoot pretty good, and it gets 20mpg hwy. That is only one less than the 4.2. I have an '02 Envoy now and I put about 1000 miles on it a week. Very satisfied with it, but wish it had a 5 speed trans to keep peak power more available. Would love to hear some feedback from Envoy Denali owners out there.
  • ross1962ross1962 Member Posts: 229
    What I'd like to see is a short wheelbase TB with the 5.3. I really have no complaints with the silky smooth I-6, but ..... there's noting like a V-8!
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Member Posts: 273
    You will get your wish with the '06 TB. Will have a 5.3L available in SWB in all trim levels. You could just go all the way with the TB SS and the LS2 engine :shades:
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Member Posts: 273
    Not an owner (yet) but have driven some of them. The 5.3L is very noticable, as it moves out much better than the 4.2L even as tight as the new engine is at first. They are a nice ride. :D
  • tomtwilitetomtwilite Member Posts: 12
    When I did my spring detailing I also noticed rust on the lower seams of both rear doors. 2004, 22K miles and 1 and 1/2 winters. Very very disappointed with this. From reading here this is not uncommon. GM will have to address that problem. Anyone else heard that annoying thumping sound with the back windows open? I thought it was a drivetrain vibration. Read the manual thoroughly. Caused by the front roof rack cross member. Move it back behind the rear window-noise gone
  • sstradersstrader Member Posts: 15
    I use the full synthetic, 5W30, usually go 5000 miles between changes. I agree, this is so far the tightest engine I have ever had in any vehicle. I have not added one drop of oil between changes in the nearly four years I have had the vehicle. Maybe my old ears just don't hear as well as they used to, but I cannot detect any strange or unexpected noises out of the engine at all. So far, it has been a really good truck, have no rust anywhere I can find, had the vehicle rustproofed at Ziebart when I bought it so I don't expect any rust through from inside. All in all, I have been very pleased. I would like a better seat design though because they give you little to no lateral support and I need that. But, there are really very few seats in any American cars that I have thought were comfortable. A coupe of months ago I went to the auto show here in Raleigh, N.C. and sat in the drivers seat of a 2005 Pontiac GTO. I would have to sit in it for a while and drive, but just sitting there, it was the most comfortable seat I have been in for a long time in any type of vehicle. Really bolsters nicely from the sides both in the bottom and the back.

    Anyway, this is off subject. I use Mobil 1, 5W30, in all four of my vehicles exclusively.

    Steve
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Member Posts: 273
    GM redesigned the seats in '05 for the TB and Envoy.
  • sstradersstrader Member Posts: 15
    I have not looked at an 05, actually I have not really looked at any SUV since I bought my 02, particularly since they have continually taken items off the list of standard or even available equipment. It hasn't interested me to look.

    If the seats are redone, do they have sufficient side bolster in the bottom and back to hold the body relatively in place if the seat is leather covered like mine? While I always have used my seatbelts and shoulder harnesses in the vehicles I have had, I would prefer not to have to use them to just hold me in position behind the steering wheel like I do in the Envoy. I just don't think that engineers put enough thought in the seat design in vehicles, not just American but most manufacturers, and the seat is where people spend their time in vehicles. It is kind of like the term "Where the rubber meets the road" when talking about tires. Instead, this is "Where the body meets the vehicle" and it can make a lot of difference, particularly the older one gets.

    Out of curiosity, I will go by the GMC dealer near the house and look at the seats.

    Thanks,

    Steve
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    If you are talking about the idle RPM's, my vehicle idles at 600 when the vehicle is warmed up. When I bought my TB back in 2002, the dealer replaced the PCM within 900 miles of purchase new date, and ever since, mine has been fine. The reason they replaced the PCM was that mine was idliling low and would even stall from time to time.

    -gmfan
  • genemo3genemo3 Member Posts: 11
    I was driving on an interstate Saturday when the SES light came on for no apparent reason; the truck still ran fine. When I got home I checked the air filter and it was a bit dirty so, as long as I had it off, I cleaned it with my shop vac and reinstalled it anticipating that I would visit my Chevy dealer on Monday. Later that day I drove the car on a short trip and the SES light went out. The cause being (I assume) the dirty air filter. I got a new one, installed it, and all is well with my SES light. The old air filter had been on the truck for about 15,000 miles and was checked about 2,000 miles ago.
  • scottc454scottc454 Member Posts: 356
    You can get that code read at most auto parts stores.

    It could be an oxygen sensor or the gas cap not being on good.

    The air filter is most likely a coincidence. No magic here - there's no sensor
    that tells when the air filter is dirty.
  • ross1962ross1962 Member Posts: 229
    My SES light went on for a few days, then went off. The code read bad O2 sensor, so I got that replaced.
    Also,a loose gas cap will always cause an SES light on these trucks.
  • longdistancetblongdistancetb Member Posts: 10
    SES (or MIL) lights come on for a variety of reasons. Sometimes they indicate transient malfunctions, such as a bit of carbon on the O2 sensor, or a sensor reading being "out of range" temporarily. Other more permanent problems are also indicated by the SES light and need attention. SES lights caused by transient problems (codes) will allow the light to go out after a few start/stop cycles. SES lights caused by more serious problems will cause the SES light to remain on, and the code for them should be "read", either by your GM dealer, a competent mechanic, or an auto parts store. I think that a SES light that is caused by a more serious but temporary problem wil go out after 50 start/stop cycles. I use an Autotap code reader to read codes in my GM vehicles, and it paid for itself in light of the $50-$80 "hookup" fee charged by many mechanics....and of course the light will come on if you don't give the gas cap a couple of extra twirls.
  • 02envoyowner02envoyowner Member Posts: 24
    :sick: The driver's side window on my 2002 Envoy SLT has decided to stop functioning. Fortunately it's up, and won't roll down....so could be worse. Plan to take it to the dealer but just curious, anyone deal with this one? (40 k miles) Also, the Ext Temp continues to read 50 F. Hhhhmmm, it's really closer to 90 F out! Any ideas? Thanks-
  • pepper50pepper50 Member Posts: 195
    I had my front passenger window stick halfway dow. It was loose however, like it had jumped the track, but managed to manually get it up in my 2002 Envoy while it was still under warranty. Dealer said they replaced the "window regulator" whatever that is. Good luck.
  • pepper50pepper50 Member Posts: 195
    I have a 2002 Envoy and the OEM blades have done great so far since my vehicle is garaged a lot and we don't have a lot of rain, but I think it's about time to replace them (especially before my dealer decides to do it and overcharges me).. I'd like to replace just the rubber refills, since it doesn't make sense to me to replace the whole blade assembly when not necessary. Have most of you gone with complete blades or rubber refills, and if the latter, have you been satisfied? Did you use a GM part or another brand? Thanks.
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    You do not want to replace the rubber refill...it is too aggrevating. The whole blade assembly is cheap, clicks right in, and you can buy a pair for $5.00 - $7.50 at an auto parts store. Michelin is making these replacement blades and now for about $6.00 a pair. Don't buy Anco, the rubber is too hard and squeals when the window is not saturated. Bosch is a pretty good brand. I have never bought blades from the dealership.

    -gmfan
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    Has anyone replaced this on their own? Some posts state you do not need to release R134A, others state you must. It looks like a simple job to replace, but do I need to let it stabilize before taking it off? I am pretty sure this will correct my A/C problem when it has been sitting in the hot sun 90+ degrees and it takes a while before the AC will start blowing cold air. In fact, I do my best to get moving down the road to help speed up the cycling. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,

    -gmfan
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    The low pressure cycling switch screws onto a Schrader valve, so you do not have to evacuate the system.

    I doubt replacing it will effect the cooling when it's hot though. Has it ever just quit cooling after it's been cooling for a while, like on a long drive? That would indicate a sticking switch. That low pressure switch cycles the compressor off when the low side goes below a certain pressure to keep the evaporator from freezing up. More likely what is happening during a hot cool down is the high pressure sensor is reaching it's programmed limit and cutting out the compressor to keep pressures from going too high. That's what mine does. Once it gets past the initial cool down cycling, it will get on down to 40-45° out of the center vent.
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    Tblazed,

    Thanks for the info. Is there a solution to the high pressure sensor? Where is it located and would I need to evacuate the system to replace this item? I think you make better sense with what is going on. It is like something is faked out. Don't get me wrong, once it starts cooling, it cools well and stays cool. No, it has never quit cooling after it has been cooling for a while. It is just a little embarrasing when you have clients or employees in getting in a hot vehicle after it has sit in the sun, and everyone suffering for a good two or three minutes before it kicks in. Heat and humidity here in the south is starting to show the system up!

    -gmfan

    -
  • ugltrkugltrk Member Posts: 16
    There was some mention of a tollfree phone # in a previous post, but I have searched for it with no luck. If someone has it, would you please post it.

    I am going to talk to my dealer about a rust prob, and would like to know the # just in case. It is in the door jams, and under the hood, also on the liftgate hinges.It is an 02 Envoy with 40K miles, I do have the xt warrenty, but it states...no rust coverage.

    Thanks..Bill
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    The High pressure sensor is at the compressor. Much more difficult to get to, you go underneath and through the lower A arm to get to it as per the manual, but is attached to another Schrader valve so no evacuation is necessary. But sounds to me like it's doing its job. The system is set to cut off the compressor when the high side exceeds about 350 p.s.i. I wish there was a fix for this. I had my HVAC controller reprogrammed (back in Jan before the warranty ran out) supposedly for better performance in hot, humid conditions, but I can't tell if that made much difference. MAYBE the cut out duration isn't as long, but it still does it.

    Yes I know what you mean about the heat and humidity. Currently we are at about 92° with a 68° dew point. If an A/C unit is trying to cool that air, it won't blow much colder than the dew point. The rest of your cooling is pouring out on the street as cold water - condensation. So...make sure you have it in recirculate mode. A lot easier for it to cool down hot dry interior air than it is hot humid air from outside. Putting tint film on the front windows to be closer to the factory rear window tint helps a little too.
  • latiguelatigue Member Posts: 1
    Yes please, this is a good idea, I have not had my Envoy a hear, It is a 2002 XL, program vehicle with 34,500 miles when I bought it last August. It has stopped on me 5 different times with the last time with surge/clunk jerk. The first 4 times I brought it to the dealership, they claimed that the computer check showed that nothing was wrong with it. It stopped again for the fifth time and it was worst, each time it would not pick up speed, and died on me. My warranty company refused to give me car to use because if the problem is not covered by the warranty it would doesn't cover the rental or temporary transportation. I really need the customer service number. Let's do get some result by filing a complaint about this sort of treatment. latigue :mad:
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    Check out this picture from I-690 in Syracuse a few days ago. A car carrier hauling 2005 Trailblazers hits a bridge. Nobody was injured in the crash and the window sticker survived.
    For another picture visit my website.
    http://home.nycap.rr.com/luckyjdr/TB_bridge_hit.html

    image
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Member Posts: 273
    Don't buy aftermarket blade for the rear. Only OEM will make correct contact with the glass. The aftermarket ones do not fit properly.
  • longdistancetblongdistancetb Member Posts: 10
    There's one TB GM will make money on ;)

    Wonder if I can get the rims and tires off it?
  • zmanjohnzmanjohn Member Posts: 6
    I was wondering if anyone else has noticed their Bravada leaning towards the driver side. it was pointed out the other day and measured from side to side, results are the passenger side is 1 inch higher than the driver side. Dealership tells me it is from only one person riding in vehicle most of time, plus fuel weight and torque of engine force driver side to "sag" a bit. I have been looking at other Bravada's same year and older and have not noticed this issue with any other ones. Dealer tells me he can install rubber bumpers between coils springs to band aid the problem, but I was looking and it has leaf springs not coils springs.
    Can anyone help to explain, it does not make sense to me. I work for an automotive manufacturer and I know that vehicles are different from side to side, it would seem that there really is something wrong with my vehicle. It drives great and rides great, but is there anything to worry about?
    Any help or guidance would be appreciated.

    Thanks :confuse:
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Friend of my mother-in-law's had this issue with her Bravada, too. I know she took the car to Symdon Chevrolet in Wisconsin, who fixed the problem - maybe you/your service guy could contact them and see what they did to fix this problem?
  • envoyenvy2envoyenvy2 Member Posts: 44
    I assume with the Bravada that you have the auto leveling suspension. My Envoy had the same problem except it was lower on the passenger side, so I think your dealer is just guessing. Do a search on auto leveling suspension to read about this issue. My solution is on message 15071.
  • zmanjohnzmanjohn Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for all your suggestions. I will see what can be done. I was thinking it was the auto leveling system also, but was told that it was not equipped with the auto leveling system by the dealer.
  • envoyenvy2envoyenvy2 Member Posts: 44
    I think all of the Bravadas have / had this system, could be wrong. If there is an air hose in the compartment on the right as you access the liftgate, you have the air suspension as well.
  • bobed2121bobed2121 Member Posts: 70
    Holy cow. I can't believe that a car hauler can't remember to check his/her vertical clearances. Something that basic should run right up there with driving with your eyes open.
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Member Posts: 273
    Will the truck driver get the $2500.00 rebate? :P
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    Everyone with the problem should call GM customer service
    at 1-800-222-1020. Tell them about the rust and get it on record.
    If we get enough people to call they might do something.
    Thanks
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