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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

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Comments

  • dillondawgdillondawg Member Posts: 18
    Elevatorguy: Thanks for the reply. Tried the procedure this morning and it seemed to improve things somewhat. Not sure about the pivoting multiplier lever up and down 3 times. Once seemed to release whatever this holds in place and then I cycled the parking brake lever 3 times. On cycle #1 it tightened up a couple of clicks but there were no perceptible changes on cycles 2 or 3 from what occurred during cycle 1. Out of curiosity I tried a single pivot on the multiplier lever and a single cycle of the parking brake lever then I tried 3 of each and there was no difference between the two. Either way what it changed was instead of the lever going all the way to the top click with almost no engagement of the actual braking effect it now seems to have some resistance about 3 clicks from the top and applies the parking brakes with enough expansion to hold the TB from moving in either drive, reverse or neutral. Brakes would not hold before I started doing the adjustment procedures. When the vehicle was new the lever would engage the brakes fully at about the halfway up position and that is the level of adjustment I am trying to achieve.

    My curiosity was still going so I removed the rear discs and exposed the parking brake shoes. As I suspected there was no real perceptible wear on the friction surfaces but I did find an adjustment rod that runs between the shoes. I adjusted this out (expanded) until I could just barely hear contact between the shoes and the inner drum then backed it off half a turn on both sides. Put it all back together and now the lever engages the parking brake halfway up the ratchet just like when it was new.

    I think the adjustment at the lever between the seats serves to take up cable slack from inevitible cable stretching that occurs over time and the adjustment rod in the shoes takes up for any actual wear on the shoes themselves. I could be wrong about all this but I got the adjustment back to where it was when the vehicle was new.

    Thanks for your help on this. ;)
  • elevatorguyelevatorguy Member Posts: 87
    dillondawg,
    Glad you got it done. I have never taken the mechanism apart, so I couldn't be of any real help to you. Isn't it great when the dealer tells you that you need to have parts replaced when it's as simple as an adjustment? And then mechanics wonder why they have a bad name and nobody trusts them. There are honest guys out there, but they are the minority.
  • denretdenret Member Posts: 1
    When I first got my 03 TB (17000 miles on it) my gas mileage was excellent...17-24, but all of a sudden it changed to 15-21. I've replaced air and fuel filters, checked every think I can think of....no luck.

    Has anyone had this experience and did you solve it??? :
  • elevatorguyelevatorguy Member Posts: 87
    Some stations add alcohol to the gas. It KILLS mileage. Most of them only do it in the winter though.
  • wxman4wxman4 Member Posts: 53
    I have an '03 TB EXT with the V8. The engine runs hot when outside temps are high (low 90's+). It doesn't overheat, just runs hot, sometimes over 235. This is not loaded, climbing mountains or towing. It is usually during city driving, but not necessarily heavy traffic. Has been in for service multiple times. Has had three new clutch fans, PCM update, reprogram and then total replace, new thermostat, flush and fill, and maybe more. Local dealer is out of ideas and apparently HQ has not been of any help.

    Curious as to experiences of any other V8 drivers. Warranty is out in approx 500 miles.

    Thanks
    Wxman
  • imadad2imadad2 Member Posts: 79
    I have a 2004 and it runs hot, but not up to 235. My gauge is right smack dab in the middle of the gauge on my dash. 210 is the temp I think. I am just curious, is the dealer concerned with damage to the engine or do they think it can handle the high temps? One of the 1st things I noticed when I bought my TB was the extreme heat from the V8. The hood gets to hot to touch on mine. I have not had the dealer look at it because the gauge sits right in the middle when running. I would be very interested in what the dealer says. Sorry I cannot help.
  • gam2gam2 Member Posts: 316
    Have they verified the engine temp seperate from the dash gauge? Could the gauge on the dash be giving a wrong reading?

    Greg
  • fandbpestfandbpest Member Posts: 5
    I have an 02 TB, and whenever i go over a bump or anything in the road there is a rattling noise coming from the front end. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem. when i first drive my TB in the morning, every time i hit the brakes for about the first 15 minutes, the brakes make a weird noise. its not the pads or any squealing, its just a weird noise. its hard to describe
    thanks for any help.
  • jamisonsjamisons Member Posts: 5
    So I took my TB in for further warranty service at 32k and they recommended cleaning the throttle body. Seemed like it might not be a bad idea, and also it wouldn't be convenient to have it done again soon if I did more research and found it to be necessary. So they did it along with an oil change (which was due) and now my fuel economy is even worse! I made a point of driving more conservatively than usual on my morning commute (city driving) but it wandered down to 13.something mpg.

    What the heck?! If anything, I expected the number to creep up if only slightly. Any chance the cleaner they use or a fuel additive might have caused this problem? I'm working through my second tank of gas post-service (mix of conservative highway and city driving) and expect to see similar miserable numbers but it won't be a direct comparison due to the highway miles.

    Any thoughts out in edmunds-land? Thanks for all the collective wisdom!
  • wxman4wxman4 Member Posts: 53
    I would not be concerned a bit about a 210 reading. My gauge will reguarly go beyond the 3/4 mark, which should be 235, by about a needle width.

    They are concerned enough that they have kept it for a total of almost 7 weeks over 4 visits attempting to correct. Up to about 225 they don't care, but local service manager doesn't think it should be getting beyond there.

    Can't confirm they have checked the IP gauge calibration, however, during lower temps it does read right at 195-200, where I would expect it to read.

    Wxman
  • dtommydtommy Member Posts: 1
    I have exactly the same problem , and they wont fix it. I personally believe it has too small of radiator for the engine size
  • hardhawkhardhawk Member Posts: 702
    Have your front stabilizer bar link bushings checked. THey are a common cause of the front end rattle over bumps. Mine were replaced and it drove like new again.
  • raleighraleigh Member Posts: 98
    Because of emissions, modern engines are designed to run a lot hotter than they used to ... and probably hotter than is good for them, long term. Nevertheless, 210 is perfectly normal and isn't going to hurt a thing. 235 is getting up there, but still nothing to be too concerned about ... depending on operating factors (Texas heat, pulling a trailer, etc.). I doubt very much that the radiator is too small for your engine. You didn't say how many miles you had on the truck, but I would try a radiator flush ... and make sure they bleed all the air out of it. Might also try going to a colder thermostat if you are that concerned about the heat.
  • ross1962ross1962 Member Posts: 229
    As hardhawk pointed out, it could be the front end. Bushings wear out on these pretty rapidly. But another thing that happens and sounds like it's coming from the front end is really the two adjustable stops under the hood. Raise them a bit, so they just make contact with the hood when closed. Then put a little silicone spray on them and se eif that makes the noise go away. (way cheaper than a bushing replacement)
  • mrgemmrgem Member Posts: 5
    My wife's 02 Bravada has the typical light "clunking" in the front end over rough roads. I've grabbed the front sway bar and checked for any discernible play in its end links and found none. So I'm thinking that it is the common problem associated with the intermediate steering shaft lubrication and wear that I've read about. The clunking can also be felt pretty readily through the steering wheel, which gives me more reason to believe it is in the shaft, and not the front suspension.

    Does anyone have access to the full text of the TSB dealing with the intermediate steering shaft? Alldata requires that you subscribe to their service, and I don't.

    I know there are at least two of these steering-shaft bulletins - one dealing with the full-size trucks and another specifically dealing with Trailblazers/Envoys, etc. That is the one I am interested in.

    TIA
  • ylabylab Member Posts: 46
    mrgem, it takes very little play to cause the clunking and the clunking starts well before the sway bar feels loose. On my '02 Envoy the clunking started with only 11,000-12,000 miles on it and increased rapidly. I was sure my front end had something wrong with it, however after having the dealer replace the end-links under warranty it again drove like new!

    My advise would be to replace the end-links (they're not real expensive) and I'd be willing to bet the noise and vibration goes away. Cheapest place to buy those little buggers is www.rockauto.com, keep in mind that the left & right side are different numbers. (You can find the numbers by searching this forum ... they were given in April or early May of this year).
  • whampuswhampus Member Posts: 3
    The October issue of Trailer Life has an article on two items to install on the 6.2L I-6 engine to increase performance. Their dynamometer tests indicated that with both items there was an increase of about 20 rear-wheel HP. Road testing showed a slight increase in fuel economy of about 1 mpg. Both items are from Airaid Performance Filter Co. One is an improved air intake filter and connecting tube. This intake helps in two ways. Less resistance to air flow and is arranged to take in cooler air. The second item is a throttle body spacer that further atomizes the fuel/air mixture. The Airaid Web site says it is 50 state legal, will not void new car warranty, and can be used with any grade fuel. Has anyone tried either or both of these? If so, with what results?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You can increase your mpg by up to 2% just by unloading 100 pounds of junk sitting in your car. (fueleconomy.gov).

    Check out Gas Saving Gizmos & Gadgets for more comments about spacers, etc. And you may enjoy the Breathe Easy: Int. & Exh. Headers + Mufflers and Pipes discussion.

    Steve, Host
  • whampuswhampus Member Posts: 3
    I guess I did not make myself clear. The very slight possible improvement in gas mileage was not my point. I probably wouldn't bother with this modification to get such a small increase in gas mileage, although 1 mpg more is an increase of at least 4 to 5%. That was mentioned only to show that there seemed to be no degradation in mileage with these simple modifications. The point is to get a bit more power for pulling a small trailer without getting into more difficult things like headers and exhaust systems. The modifications and their evaluation seemed to be done by reputable people.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I'm a bit dubious since the intake has to go out somewhere; usually that means bigger pipes in and out, or so I've read over in that Breathing discussion I linked. Throttle body spacers don't make much sense to me either; if they worked (either for more hp or mpg), why wouldn't the manufacturer design them in to begin with?

    Come to think of it, I've read enough about hyped dyno reading to be a bit suspicious of them too. :-) . But I didn't read any more about this than what you posted either.

    While I doubt that most people could sense an additional 10 hp, twenty may be noticeable.

    If you go this route, it'd be nice to see a reliable baseline so you'd know that the benefit is more than a seat of pants feel.

    Steve, Host
  • wpkelleysrwpkelleysr Member Posts: 51
    I have an 02 TB I6, but used to have a Jeep Grand Cherokee (Chrysler 318 or 5.2L), and used a throttle body expander on the Jeep. Easy 5MPG increase. Cost about $40. Haven't done anything to the Chevy yet though...

    - WPK
  • ylabylab Member Posts: 46
    The bulk of any increase, and i very much doubt it was 20 rwhp, came from the low restriction filter and smooth intake tube. I have a system similar to the Airaid and it does help, especially above 3500 rpm....but the spacer didn't seem to do a whole lot.

    I had one on my Envoy and the whistle under light throttle was more annoying than any benefit. (Bet they didn't mention the blasted whistle!) With my Borla split-cat-back exhaust and intake, there IS a .5 to 1 mpg increase if you take it easy.....when the spacer was on, I think the economy actually went down a bit! Think about it, the injectors are at the intake valves and there isn't any mixture to mix or atomize at the throttle body.....just plain air, and it has to split 6 ways for each cylinder.
  • whampuswhampus Member Posts: 3
    I think ylab has hit it pretty well on the head. The magazine article does show that the bulk of the improvement comes from the low restriction filter and smooth intake tube. And their results bear out ylab's experience about the help being most noticeable at higher rpms. They did mention the noise as "a slight increase in air-intake noise on the road, but only under heavy throttle". Very subjective. I was puzzled about the talk of a mixture at this point, but thought maybe I was missing something and that what was really meant was that whirling air caused more atomizing when the fuel was injected downstream. Thanks everyone for the comments. I think I'll just keep my money.
  • hardhawkhardhawk Member Posts: 702
    My 2002 Envoy with the I-6 pulls my 5000# boat/trailer with no problem. I did add the K&N filter when it was new and it does have the high pitched whistle at full throttle. What rear axle ratio do you have? I have the 4.10 and it is great for towing. The Envoy has been a great tow vehicle.
  • morey000morey000 Member Posts: 384
    Is the '06 engine Hp increase do to engine improvements? or just due to just a re-spec'ing under the new HP rules? They're now calling it a 291hp engine, instead of 275.
  • bigd6bigd6 Member Posts: 1
    have an 02 trailblazer with 245-70-16's. how large of a tire can i put on the stock rims. I'm thinking of 265-70-16 or 255-65-16 michelin cross terrain suv's I'm finding sketchy info
  • ylabylab Member Posts: 46
    For '06 they've increased the compression ratio a bit, made slight changes to the intake and tweaked the PCM. - Heck, they had to do something to tout their standard engine still has as much power as the optional V8 in the Explorer! :)

    So the changes are real and not just in the calculation of their numbers.
  • chootschoots Member Posts: 21
    I have a 02 SLT Envoy. The upper brake light lens (the one above the lift gate) is peeling, it almost looks like a coating of varnish is peeling off of it. I bought the car new, and there has never been anything put on the lens. I wash the car myself and always use clean water. Has anyone else had this problem?
    Carl
  • rad225rad225 Member Posts: 15
    I have a 2002 TB, just noticed the same problem. Car has never been garaged, washed at commercial places. I wonder if this peeling is covered as a safety device defect?
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Mine's the same. I use some plastic polish on it from time to time which helps. The UV plus the air (with the usual grit and grime mixed in) going over it in that exposure location are hard on it.
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Member Posts: 273
    Read on another forum of others with this problem. Dealers replace light and molding that surrounds the light. Do you have a warranty?
  • mrgemmrgem Member Posts: 5
    Thanks, Ylab. I will pursue that.

    Seems I'd read that the best replacements (non-factory) actually had grease fittings on them. IIRC, NAPA was one source cited. Do the RockAuto units have grease fittings?
  • elevatorguyelevatorguy Member Posts: 87
    Get MOOG brand. They are the best and yes, MOOG does sell greasable replacements.
  • mark77mark77 Member Posts: 4
    I need to change the headlight bulb on my envoy. This would be my first time to change a bulb on this car. Any suggestion is appreciated. Thanks.
  • ylabylab Member Posts: 46
    On the Envoy its a piece of cake......

    1) Ppull up on the two clips that hold the hadllamp assembly in and it gently pull forward.

    2) On the back are two round rubber covers which pull off like a coffee can lid, one for the low beam and another for the high.

    3) Remove the covers to access the bulbs to twist out and replace the bulb.

    Reverse steps 1 & 2 to re-assemble.

    If you want to ensure you don't scratch the top of the bumper, place a cotton towel between the headlamp and bumper before starting....or just be careful.

    Ray
  • pandar31pandar31 Member Posts: 1
    I am having problems with my turn signal relay- the relay continues to click after the turn signal is off. When pushing on the brake the noise goes away. The repair book doesn't cover this issue and their are no codes stored in the cars computer. Please help.
  • macatowamacatowa Member Posts: 69
    I'm still on original brake pads at 73,000 miles, I think that is pretty good.
    What kind of pad life is anyone else getting? Also brake dust is virtually non existant, and the brakes work great! GM gets an A+ in my book for this, :)
  • gam2gam2 Member Posts: 316
    Anyone pull rotors from a 4WD triplet to have them turned? Mine are bad at 36,000 mostly HWY miles. Probably turn the fronts first. GM gets a D- in my book. I've never turned rotors on anything with less than 100K miles before! My brake pedal
    still sqeaks and moans after 3 trips to the dealer.

    Greg
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    At 36K mine are still very good. I expect to go past 70K easily.
  • ross1962ross1962 Member Posts: 229
    Totally agree on the brake quality. It's a big step up from the old S-10 Blazer. I'm about ready to replac mine at 55K, which is a very long brake pad life for my driving habits.
  • dillondawgdillondawg Member Posts: 18
    The brake pads on all 4 wheels are ceramic which is fairly new on the scene. Use to be choices were metallic, semi-metallic or organic. Ceramic is virtually dust free and long lived. The pads are far and away more compatible with the rotors as far as wear than any prevously offered pads. I have 50K on my TB EXT with the original pads that have about 40% life left in them and zero wear on the rotors.

    For those who might be having problems with unusual wear, pay close attention to lug nut torque when rotating tires etc. The way the brakes are designed as on most cars, the wheel ultimately holds every thing square and if the lug nuts are not torqued properly with respect to sequence (star pattern) and torque ft. lbs. (103 ft. lbs.) there is the risk of warpage of the rotor which is going to increase and accellerate wear of the pads.

    Ceramics are a bit more expensive to buy but if you shop around you'll see thre is quite a bit of variance in pricing between NAPAONLINE and AUTOZONE.COM and others. You can get them for just a little more than premium quality metallics. ;)
  • kudronkudron Member Posts: 32
    I just changed pads over the weekend. 83,000 miles. I am impressed :)
  • mark77mark77 Member Posts: 4
    Hi Ray,

    Thanks for your advice. I am guessing that you are taking the headlight assembly out from outside. Do I need any tool to pull up the clips?

    Thanks again.

    Mark
  • fyreman235fyreman235 Member Posts: 6
    Over 90K on original pads on my '02 Bravada and still going strong. I've had the advantage of a lot of long-distance driving, but 90K is still amazing!
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    The brakes are A++ in my book. I have 78K miles on my 02 TB (50% highway, 50% city) - they might be halfway worn. As far as someone mentioning the pads are ceramic, I am not so sure. I thought these were semi-metallic. Tblazed, do you know?

    This vehicle has fantastic stopping. I read somewhere in a Car magazine it stops 60 to ) is 109 feet!!!
  • dillondawgdillondawg Member Posts: 18
    There are pads available out there at Napa and Autozone that are other than ceramic but when you ask at the counter they will tell you that Ceramic are listed at OEM replacement. I checked with my dealer and they cannot get anything in Mr. Goodwrench that is other than ceramic nor will the dealer (at least mine)install aftermarket that is not ceramic. They wear easily 50% longer than anything else, they show little wear to the disc, superior stopping ability and most obviously, have any of you seen any of that ugly black brake dust on your wheels that is present with organic, metallic linings. Napa and Autozone can get you Metallic and Semi-Metallic pads but it's a pretty sure bet you will be going through rotors a lot faster and changine pads more often. ;)
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    I thought these were semi-metallic. Tblazed, do you know?

    First I've heard or read they are ceramic from the factory. Maybe on the newer ones? My 2002 original pads leave some brake dust on the front wheels. Brakes are excellent IMO except the typical ABS action when trying to stop hard and fast on a washboard surface or gravel, and the ABS system lets up because of tire hop or slippage. Makes me wish for a switch to turn on or off the ABS. But that's the way ABS works. Other than that... excellent.
  • wpkelleysrwpkelleysr Member Posts: 51
    I think I have the record. Brakes line flush two days ago - and pads inspected. Original brakes still in good shape I think (they said 6MM) - and have never been replaced. Here's the kicker - 126K miles. Granted, a lot of that is highway - but wow.

    - WPK
  • acenvoyacenvoy Member Posts: 1
    Just replaced tires on my '02 SLE with P275/60R-17 Mich CrossTerrains. No problems with fit or clearance. They added about 1/2" to height and give a great ride and look great filling out the wheel wells.
  • ugltrkugltrk Member Posts: 16
    Replaced mine yesterday with the Moog #K6665, K6666, $22.99 ea at OReilly auto parts. They do have grease fittings. Stopped the "clunk".

    Bill
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