Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Thanks again!
a) I called GMC and their customer service rep researched it and a few days later offered to pay 50% of the total cost for repair.
b) It took several days to get an appointment at the dealer - then they ordered the wrong size belt.
c) Finally got if fixed on Monday. Net cost to me was $120 -though it took them nearly an hour (I am not making this up!) to get the bill right with the 50-50 split and the wrong seat belt.
Throughout all this the GMC rep followed up with me with 4 or 5 calls. Also it was the same person following up so they knew the case. I am totally impressed with their level of customer service and follow-up!
Wonder if anyone else has had the Bilsteins installed & how much you pd.
JR
I have not had the problem with the wipers, however.
It idles fine, but when the RPMs increase the noise the fan makes is quite noticeable. This would sometimes happen if I ran the car cold, but eventually the noise would go away. Just today I started the engine after sitting for about 15 minutes and the loud sound will not go away and the "Service Engine" light came on and has stayed on.
The fan seems as though it is spinning much faster than is needed.
Thanks
I took off the grille and couldn't really figure out which screws to undo. I look behind the top sheet metal and I couldn't see any obvious sensor or wires. I'm attaching a few pictures, any suggestions? (see next post)">
Pic 1:
Pic 2:
Pic 3:
link title
link title
link title
Bang the starter motor a couple of times with a tire iron. I'm serious. I own an 02 TB and an 02 Envoy - and have had this problem from time to time. If it reoccurs, sooner or later you have to replace the starter moter because the solenoid is integral.
Give it a try and let me know.
- WPK
- WPK
Carl
- WPK
THANKS!
However, I had a related problem where the front passenger side belt was stuck in a halfway position and just got it fixed last week. GM was kind enough to pay for 50% of the repair.
Search for "passenger seat belt" or "passenger seatbelt" in this forum and you should see several posts about this. Get it fixed ASAP while you still have it under warranty.
This condition generally does not require replacement of any parts. This condition is the result of allowing the belt to enter the retractor at a high rate of speed. If the belt is allowed to go all the way back into the retractor very quickly, it is possible that the force of the belt stopping suddenly against the seat back will vibrate the retractor. This vibration "fools" the retractor into thinking that the vehicle is changing velocity. The normal function of the retractor under this condition is to lock the belt.
How to Correct or Eliminate the Condition
The only way to completely eliminate the condition is not to allow the belt to retract back all the way into the retractor quickly. The fast retraction usually occurs when the customer holds the latch while unbuckling and guides the webbing into the retractor quickly until it's fully stowed. As long as the customer guides the belt at a slower rate of speed, the retractor will work consistently without locking. Also, if the customer unbuckles the belt and lets the webbing retract on its own (without guiding it), there is generally enough friction from the belt against clothing to slow down the belt so it won't lock when it fully stows.
If the customer does allow the belt and latch plate to retract quickly, the retractor can easily be restored to normal operation. Simply pull on the belt to create some slack in the webbing and pay back some of the webbing into the retractor. Slack can also be created by pushing on the foam at the top of the seat back. After a maximum of 10 mm (0.39 in) of webbing is introduced into the retractor, it will unlock and function again. Please demonstrate this action to your customer. After an explanation and demonstration, most customers should be able to unlock the retractor without a problem. You may give a copy of this bulletin to your customer for further reference.
If this does not work or is difficult, then you should take it back to dealer and have them replace the unit, as there are no adjustments that I am aware of.
Hope this helps.
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a452a0!v=
It is behind the grill (valance). It snaps in and is found by following the two wire conduit that it is connected to from the wire harness. Not hard to change, but work to get to! Good luck.
I looked at your photos. You're close, but it's actually off to the side more, between some metal and the front of the radiator.
I'll try and post a diagram that I have on my gallery.
- WPK
Here's a link.
http://users3.ev1.net/~epadget/tempsens.jpg
Also, anyone look under their trucks recently. my '03 is really rusty all over. I thought these frame had special paint applied to them??
Greg
I am still work with the lawyer on mine.
I keep a CarChip EX plugged into the OBD2 port and two of the parameters it records are Fuel Trim and RPM. At the exact point the RPM drops, the Fuel Trim goes way lean trying to compensate for the canister being purged. I figured this out a couple of years ago, got it reprogrammed once, it ran better but did not fix the almost stall situation. Since it had never died before I did not pursue it further, and now that it's well out of warranty it has stalled for the first time.
As to the vibration at idle, sounds like they reprogrammed it to lower the idle RPM a little. My idle speed will vary a little bit and when it's on the high side around 630 I can barely feel the engine running. 10-20 RPM slower and it vibrates excessively, to the point the steering wheel will resonate with it and will be visibly vibrating vertically!
Another thing to try is to clean the throttle body. I've not had to, but have read of several that cleaning helped idle problems. Apparently the throttle body can get oil and dirt build up around where the butterfly rests at idle. Result can disturb the air flow, and cause the throttle movement to get sticky when it has to make small corrections to keep idle speed constant.
Thanks for the help will let you know after I ask them about the idle.
Pete
operation? I'm tired of getting raped on the Illinois Tollway.
Greg
- WPK
I can't get my hand in there to replace the sensor. I suppose I have to unscrew the front panel (the smaller bolt "northwest" of the sensor in the picture).
rj123456: Once I had the grill off, I didn't really have to remove anything else. I wiggled the sensor housing out of the frame, then removed the smaller sensor, replaced it with the new sensor, then stuffed the housing back like it was. Works great now.
- WPK
Waiting on my package (including the sensor) from gmpartsdirect. It says "Shipped DHL" but the tracking # shows Fedex picked it up on 5/22 (and no status after that, weird?).
I had I-Pass in my Envoy. Didn't interfere with anything. Haven't gotten up the nerve to glue it to the window of my TB SS yet. I'm not on the tollway very often.
THANK YOU
It should be fine for a short trip like that. You not towing anything are you?
- WPK