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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

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Comments

  • tb4metb4me Member Posts: 41
    Hey out there long time since I posted. 02 LT 185,000 miles and climbing!! Service air bag light and text comes(service air bag) up in the DIC when I hit a good bump. Goes away in a minute or 2. Happens with pretty much every good bump. Seems like a connection that is loose? sensor that is going. Any one know where the sensors are and if I start unpluging and cleaning them with i set this system off?

    Great to be back on here hope all is well with all of you.

    Any help is appreciated!!
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    Guys i need help well the moog links i put on a while back which they did hold up do i need to replace them?? i am hearing clunking in the front also when i turn the wheel also i see all the tranny problems well i might as well join the list torque converter i was told i am taking it to mr tranny. I have gmpp i hope i do not have ANY PROBLEMS WITH THEM!!!! I got jerked in this deal for the tblazer i cannot get out of this until like a yr from now and that rolling over equity and gmpp ends in july damn. So guys what can i do until. Dealers suck goodyear, firestone are the only ones i deal with there more friendly. So i need help.What to do with this auto please help gmpp ends in july or 110499 miles i do not drive alot like 15 miles a day so help thanks guys.
  • jmaldo68jmaldo68 Member Posts: 1
    :mad: Well my case is worst. GMC Envoy 2002 SLE, already replaced the fan-clutch at 39,000 miles. It costed me close to $800 (300+ for the new fan and $400+ for labor). The dealer installed "the new computer software". Anyway, now the car is at 42,700 miles, and guess what. The fan-clutch, the thermotast (this blew up) are broken. The bad news, I shipped this Envoy to the Dominican Republic (already talking to the local Dealer). My question to all is, in observation of all the fan-clutch problems, does this require a RECALL. Now that I know about so many people having this problem, either the dealer and GMC refund me for the first fan-clutch and repair or replace with current one, OR I will definetely SUE them. Has anyone taken this action?

    Thanks
    jmaldo68@gmail.com
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I need to change the coolant on my 02 TB. Can anyone tell me where the block drain plug or plugs are?
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    2002s have a radiator drain petcock in the bottom right corner (passenger side) of the radiator. 2003+ that was deleted.

    No drain plugs on the block.

    BTW.. 2003+ have to disconnect the lower hose to drain the radiator.
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    My tranny is fine for now the FAN CLUTCH IS NOT what i am doing is i am paying this off i have no choice. I am on the offensive making sure nothing goes wrong i have been a stickler on maintaining this auto. I am upside down so what i am going to do is pay off 15500 by nov 08 that way i will not have long and i get whatever i want. WITH NO NEG EQUITY PD IN FULL. IT WILL HAVE LIKE 115000 MILES ON IT SO???? BUT OTHER THAN THAT GM IS GOING TO PUT ON A PART THAT I FIXED AND I WILL GET IT FREE WHEN THINGS GO BAD. THE WARRANTY IS UP IN JULY 07 SO I'LL HOLLA
  • ugltrkugltrk Member Posts: 16
    2002 Envoy coming up on recommended brake fluid change.
    Doe's this model have synthetic fluid, will it be OK to replace with syn.? Planning on having coolant flush done at a local shop, plan on doing the BF change myself.

    Thanks...Bill
  • bobed2121bobed2121 Member Posts: 70
    I recently replaced all 4 disc brake pads on my TB. Good quality "quiet stop raybestos pads." I did not turn the rotors. They were working fine at first but now after about 1k-2k miles I'm getting pulsing when applying the brakes at about 25 mph to a smooth stop. If I'm going a little faster like 50mph or so and hit the brakes the pulsing is quite fast almost like a shimmy in the front end. I have always heard that turning the rotors would fix the problem. I don't know why I did not turn them in the first place as I'm generally pretty good about that. Anyone else had the pulsing brakes yet and what did you do to fix it? I have 109,000 miles now so I am considering replacing all the shocks and struts as well.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    You may need to lightly scuff the rotor surfaces so the new pads will wear in properly. You can do that with an electric drill and a 300-400 grit sanding disk.
  • smokiejoesmokiejoe Member Posts: 26
    Had pulsating brakes on a 2004 GMC Envoy w/ 35999 miles on it. Dealer turned the two front rotors at no charge since vehicle was still under warranty. (I planned it that way.)
    Reused the brake pads which were still very good.
    Completely fixed problem.
    That was 9 months ago. I will turn in lease at 48K in the next 3 months.
  • brittney26brittney26 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Rainier and after taking it to the car wash the other day I now have a whistling noise when I travel over 70 mph. Any ideas?
  • bobed2121bobed2121 Member Posts: 70
    Thanks for the reply. I had them turned and problem fixed!
  • bobed2121bobed2121 Member Posts: 70
    2002 Trailblazer LTZ 4x4
    I had my front drive shaft, drivers side, throw grease out of the boot all over the frame and the dealer fixed it under warranty a year or two ago. Now the one on my right front is doing the same thing. Any tackled this? Is it just a matter of taking off the boot and replacing the seal assembly that is in there?
  • quarquequarque Member Posts: 41
    Pulsating is caused by warped or uneven rotors. The usual causes of this are hard braking over long periods (overheating rotor) or not tightening the lug nuts evenly when putting tires on. I've had both of these cases and turning the rotors is the only fix. The only time it came about suddenly like yours was right after a shop rotated the tires. The mechanic used an air wrench at max torque and did not tighten the lugs in a criss-cross pattern. the brakes pulsated immediately and I got the shop to turn the rotors for free after questioning the mechanic. Some rotors are more susceptable to this than others. So don't ride your brakes down a mountain pass and don't put your tires on improperly! There are other possible causes but new pads should not cause this by themselves.
  • goodstargoodstar Member Posts: 27
    Mine is doing the same (passenger side). I thought it might have been the clamp, bought a new one at dealer, pulled boot back, filled with correct grease, and put new clamp on. It still leaks. Trying to decide now if I'm going to replace the entire wheel drive axle or replace the boot and bushing in hopes that will stop it. To do either you have to remove the drive axle and use a special tool to install swage clamp on small end of boot. Mine is not leaking real bad yet so still have time before have to do anything. bobed2121, let me know what you do to solve the problem.
  • weldonblairweldonblair Member Posts: 6
    I have an 05 Rainier that has a musty smell when you first turn on the AC. The dealer installed some sort of fan that runs after the car is shut off but that hasn't eliminated the smell. I guess there is no pollen filter on the car so that can't be it. There was a post for a 2000 GMC (at yahoo answers) about pouring a mixture of mr clean and water over the air intake vent (and it drains out the overflow). I'm up for trying this but I don't see where the intake is on the rainier--is it near the louvers in the plastic at the bottom of the windshield, over the wipers? :confuse:
  • goodstargoodstar Member Posts: 27
    If the cross bars on roof rack are in the wrong position it will cause it to whistle. See if they are loose and moved during the car wash.
  • bobed2121bobed2121 Member Posts: 70
    It's got to be leaking from the boot. I have not got in there and looked close yet. You replaced the clamp did you look at the boot real good for cracks? I don't see why you would have to replace the entire axle.
  • goodstargoodstar Member Posts: 27
    No cracks in boot. Leaked between boot and tripod bushing. Replacing the clamp apparently helped some. Checked over weekend again and is not throwing as much grease out like before... Will recheck later.

    If I have to replace boot and bushing I might replace axle because have almost 80K on vehicle and 80k wear on existing axle. Need special tool to replace swage clamp on shaft side of boot if only replacing boot. Do not have the tool. Not sure I want to buy the tool. Keeping close eye on leak for now then decide later what I'm going to do to fix.
  • bobed2121bobed2121 Member Posts: 70
    This is from the service report that the dealer did for my left side
    HALFSHAFT, FRONT DRIVE - FRONT - LEFT - R&R
    Not very useful information but thought I'd share it anyway. I have the 2002 TB LTZ factory service manual, 2 volumes, and I'll look tonight for the procedure and tool number. If the tool is needed and expensive I'd be willing to do some sort of purchase/share deal with you. What vehicle and year do you have?
  • goodstargoodstar Member Posts: 27
    '02 trailblazer and a "04 envoy - Tool is not that expensive I appreciate the offer but I will buy myself if I decide to change the boot. As I said yesterday, the shaft does not seem to be leaking now so will hold off until starts leaking again.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    Is this one of the tools available from one of the parts stores in their loaner program? Is it AutoZone that has that program? You might be able to 'borrow' it in that case....or even rent it instead of buying.

    Found it http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/loan_a_tool.htm

    They have a CV boot driver in the loan program. Removes and installs all boots on GM constant velocity joints with stamped retaining rings.

    OEM27052

    They also have several other tools for CV replacement. I'm assuming they might want you to purchase parts from them to get the loaner tools, but it won't hurt to ask them for the details.

    If you don't have AutoZone in your area, check some of the local parts places to see if they have a similar program.
  • ross1962ross1962 Member Posts: 229
    I replaced my shocks with heavy duty Bilstiens and I'm very happy with the firmer ride.
    On the brakes,when I do mine, I'm going to use whatever the OEM pads are. I have 75K and still have the original pads. I don't baby this truck by any means. I will say, however, that I do have a slight pulsation in the brakes.
  • ross1962ross1962 Member Posts: 229
    Brittney, does this whistling sound happen when you are driving by construction sites by any chance? Hmmm?
    Just checking. ;)
  • russelld1russelld1 Member Posts: 3
    Just bought (used) my 2004 Buick Rainier. Love it so far, except that when I accelerate and the truck is in 2nd gear, it feels like there is a slip (or a bump) somewhere in the driveline. Only happens during quick acceleration or going up hills. Any help would be much appreciated.
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    I would STRONGLY advise you to either trade out of your auto or raise all kind of h......... because i had a 03 tblazer and man i did maintenance to the letter. And guess what the tranny started slipping mine you 102000 MILES I TRADE OUT AND GOT A 07 ACCORD and guess what 6 aamco dealers told me nothing was wrong i knew better. Now to the naked eye no one will find anything but it was slipping. So TRUST ME I DO KNOW YOU DO NOT KNOW ME PERSONALLY BUT HONESTLY GET OUT BIG TIME or you will wish you did.Also the rainier is made on the same platform as the trailblazer so i know somethings up. Remember to the naked eye it will seem like nothing wrong but it is its the same thing i was told.As you said it only happens when you go up hills and accelerate its the same thing i had problems with check out also the rpm neddle and see as you accel where it goes what i found was before got this piece of crap out of here torque converter so that's it war.
  • bobed2121bobed2121 Member Posts: 70
    You don't say if you have the 4x4 or not but here is what I went through. My transmission was slipping especially during hill climbs. I checked the fluid level and it was off the stick. No leaks! Where the heck did it go? I opened the transfer case and out came the fluid. Seems the seal between the transmission and transfer case was bad. I have yet to replace the seal and just keep tabs on my levels then drain off excess fluid when needed.
    Now if you are not low on fluid and still slip then get ready for a major transmission overhaul. Take it to the transmission shop and let them diagnose the problem. They should do it for free if not take it somewhere else. What is the mileage on your Buick?
  • bobed2121bobed2121 Member Posts: 70
    Has anyone ever heard and or experienced any horror stories after having their transmissions flushed? Sometimes I wonder if the old "Ain't broke don't fix it" saying really has some weight to it.
    Also would you consider having one of those quick lube joints doing the work?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I'm leery of them - this is the post I've bookmarked here for years that makes the case not to power flush (note that people define flushing and power flushing differently).

    amigo_john, "Isuzu Trooper" #8070, 30 Jun 2003 7:46 am
  • spammerspammer Member Posts: 2
    Recently, when I am traveling at low speeds my engine is embarrasingly loud. It happens when from the point I start my car. It screams until I enter the freeway and increase spead, at that point the engine finally sounds normal again, but when I get back onto local roads and decrease speed, it gets loud again. What's the problem?
  • bill830bill830 Member Posts: 1
    My son has a 98 Old Bravada that has run well for the three years we have had it. Suddenly, he tries to start the car and it is VERY hard to start.Once startd the silly thing runs like a top. However, starting is the issue.

    I know I have not provided a lot of info. But your thoughts and ideas would be a great place to start.

    Thanks in advance.

    Bill in KC
  • russelld1russelld1 Member Posts: 3
    Hey everyone!
    Thanks for the info. so far...was away on holidays last couple of days.

    Current mileage on Buick Rainier is 55000 miles. The more I listened during a family trip, the more I think that it feels like a transfer case issue and not transmission...not sure if that makes any sense.

    I called it slipping before, but it is best described as a 'bumping' feeling somewhere in the driveline while in 2nd gear between 15-40 mph.

    I had the tranny serviced just after I bought the vehicle at 50k, and I'm wondering if I should have the transfer case serviced as well (change fluid, etc.)

    Any more thoughts are welcome....thanks again!
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Sounds like the fan clutch has gone out and the fan is running at high speed all the time. It's easy to tell, open the hood when the engine is cold, start the engine. The fan should run noticably slow until the engine starts to warm near normal operating temperature, then the fan will start to run faster (and get noisier).
  • bobed2121bobed2121 Member Posts: 70
    Since you say it runs like a top once started then you have a fuel delivery problem. Try some injector cleaner as a cheap starting place (no pun intended).
  • tb4metb4me Member Posts: 41
    2002 LT 196,000 miles...looks like new though!!!! running perfect yesterday..today picked up a noticiable vibration basically under the front driver seat/armrest. Looked under the car. 1/2 shaft not bent or missing weights, no fluid leaks visible, a little play in the 1/2 shaft ...rotating only... not up or down or front to back. Driveshaft looks good and the u-joint seems tight. Bolts are tight at the front and rear pinion shaft Any guesses ???????other than i'm going to rebalance the front and back tires tomorrow, the beast under the driver seat is the transfer case--perhaps could be going? :cry: . Tried the 4 wheel in high and it worked perfect with no noises going straight at about 25 mph. :confuse:
  • tb4metb4me Member Posts: 41
    2002 trailblazer lt 4wd.

    60,000 flushed at the dealer--$125.00. filter change and flush at 120,000 dealer--$200.00. Flush at 180,000..dealer--have 196,000 and still going--shifts a little slower into OD but who the heck cares at this point it's still shifting!!!!
  • jr222jr222 Member Posts: 15
    Don't know a whole lot about about the Ranier, but I believe it shares the same AWD system as my 03 Bravada. If so, that bumping you feel probably has something to do with with the AWD. Wouldn't hurt to take it to the dealer to see if all the computer updates are installed. Mine had that bumping feeling which mostly went away after an update that GM issued sometime in the spring of '04.
  • russelld1russelld1 Member Posts: 3
    Hey jr222!!

    Can't thank you enough for the info. on my driveline 'bumping' problem with my 04 Buick Rainier. I went to the dealership and had them check for transmission/transfer case computer updates. They 're-flashed' the computer module in the transmission with updates to 'improve performance and driveability' and they worked. Thanks again!!!
  • rj123456rj123456 Member Posts: 140
    Did you end up suing them or getting anything from GM?

    I have the same problem - the dealer in Santa Clara CA quote about $900 for the repair, including $490 for the part (gmpartsdirect.com price is $195 including shipping/handling!).

    I am getting it fixed at an independent whose labor rate is about 25% cheaper.

    My 2002 GMC Envoy XL SLT has about 55K miles on it.
  • jr222jr222 Member Posts: 15
    Glad the fix worked for you. I still get a little of that bumping feeling from time to time while accelerating, but not nearly as bad as before the PCM update. I think you'll find that overall driveability is much better after the update. They tweaked the shift ranges a little for better acceleration and shifting seems smoother.

    There is also a part in the AWD system called the encoder motor that I had to have replaced to stop crow hopping, which was due to the front wheel drive engaging during sharp turns. Just giving you a heads up in case you have this issue.
  • jr222jr222 Member Posts: 15
    About a year ago I bought a set of the Bilstein heavy duty shocks for my 03 Bravada, but left them sitting in storage because my dealer wanted $400.00 to install them.

    Recently, I started getting a rattle in the left front suspension and found that the left strut had become loose and the rubber on the top got pulverized. So I took this opportunity to have the the Bilsteins installed. My old dealership closed down so I found another that did the whole job for $250.00.

    Wow, does this truck handle better. Much less body roll around corners and no see-sawing from front to back. GM put very soft shocks on the Bravadas to give it a smoother ride I suppose, but driving it was like steering a ship on the ocean. Much more fun now.

    Sits just a tad higher in the back but doesn't look jacked up.

    I
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    All the tripletts are sprung soft in the back due to the progressive rate springs they use. Put a load on them and they firm up. The best way to reduce the body roll is to use the larger rear sway bar from Hotchkiss, but I do agree the Bilsteins provide an upgrade. They were standard on our 02 TB when we bought it.
  • cebtebcebteb Member Posts: 138
    I'm confused, Bilstein shocks were standard on all the Bravadas from 2002 until the end. I'm not sure we are talking about the same model of Bilstein shock.

    I've seen mixed reviews in this forum on the advisability of installing the Hotchkiss rear anti-sway bar. But, since it appears that the larger GM anti-sway bar that was used on later model TB/Envoy/Rainier isn't adaptable to the earlier models, it seems to be the only solution to the body roll on twistee roads.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I don't really know if the shocks are the same model either. I don't notice much difference in the sway bar around town. The most difference is out on the highway in the wind, where the rear end used to get blown around a lot in gusty winds.
  • glubashglubash Member Posts: 19
    2003 GMC Envoy XL V8 - 50,000 mile report

    General Likes:
    1. Seat heaters work very well
    2. Decent towing performance
    3. Nice ride on the highway
    4. Air suspension works well
    5. Oil Life % readout
    6. Third row seats good for short trips

    General Gripes:
    1. Bose Radio - Volume control "steps" are too big. Not enough resolution in the volume control.
    2. Need more cup holders up front
    3. Bose Radio - 6 disc changer is okay, would like the option to repeat a single disc or random a single disc
    4. Bose Radio - Auto volume control - over compensates for ambient noise, would like high/medium/low setting
    5. DVD player - Cannot pipe audio through the sound system, have resorted to a battery powered computer speaker (headsets not small child friendly)
    6. DVD player - Does not play DVD-R's
    7. Auto-wipers do not work very well in heavy rain or snow, ok in light rain
    8. Changing the air filter takes about 1 hour
    9. No aux input on the stereo

    Warranty Work:
    1. Air Leaks - driver door, passenger door, and both rear windows
    2. Rear license plate well seal (replaced gasket)
    3. Rear spoiler - detached itself
    4. Failed ignition relay - stranded 6 hours from home
    5. Rear Wiper arm replacement (replaced 4 times)
    6. Rear drivers side door handle
    7. Driver Memory Seat Buttons broken - Driver 1/2 (Replaced)
    8. Loose shifter knob
    9. Squeal at 1000 RPM - Demonstrated and acknowledged by dealer, unable to fix
    10. Suspension Noise from bumpy road (replaced sway bar end links front and back)
    11. Rear drivers side door panel (interior plastic molding fell off)
    12. Replaced serpentine belt
    13. Replaced both backup lights (seal failed - lights were full of water)
    14. LH Rear door panel pulling apart (replaced)
    15. 4WD service light on, 4WD did not work (replaced module, updated software)
    16. Rear visor on top of rear window peeled off (replaced)
    17. Right Rear backup light inoperative (replaced socket)
    18. Rust in rear gate area (repainted hinges)
    19. LH Rear door trim loose (reglued trim)
    20. LH Rear door hard to open (re-aligned & lubed)
    21. Rear air deflector loose (replaced)
    22. LH Rear door panel problem (replaced)

    Post-Warranty Work:
    1. Fuel Pressure Regulator failure - difficult to start, ran poorly (38,600 miles, $295)
    2. Blower Control Module - blower would not shut off even though engine was off and key out of ignition, drained battery overnight (43000 miles, $325).
    3. Front Air Conditioner (needs service - currently only working intermittently)
    4. Sounds like it might need a brake job soon.

    Recall Work:
    1. Replaced tail lamp circuit boards
    2. Rear side door closure

    Summary:
    The Envoy is a nice looking vehicle with some decent features but based on my experience is poorly made and assembled with substandard parts. It appears that some maintenance-friendly features were designed in (easy to change the oil), but others were completely forgotten about (must remove metric and english bolts from the same cross-bar when changing the air filter).

    The engine has been good so far but there have been three instances where I have been stranded or nearly stranded due to component failures. I have driven GM vehicles all of my life and this one by far has had the most issues. It is obvious to me that "GMC Professional Grade" is no more than a marketing slogan. This is the last GM vehicle that I ever plan to purchase (and I have family that works for GM!).

    Glubash
  • gdavi4gdavi4 Member Posts: 2
    D,

    Did you ever get the problem fixed regarding the air suspension problem you were having and how much did it cost (if you don't mind me asking)? I have a 2002 Envoy SLT and I've noticed over the past couple of weeks that the rear suspension becomes deflated after the truck sits for over 24 hrs.
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    .

    Our 2001 AWD Safari van is getting near its "end of ownership" time period. Within the next year (or so), we'll be selling this beast and replacing her with something that is simular (or close to it). Time to move to better technology and something different - that can still tow under 3,500 lbs (loaded utility trailer with full electric brakes) and still have 3 rows of seats.

    I read the above post "18089 2003 GMC Envoy XL V8 - 50,000 Mile Report by glubash Sep 29, 2007 (11:52 am)" and found it very informative. Thank you for taking the time to post it. Well worth reading - especially being in bullet form.

    Due to my small weight towing and 3 rows of seats needs, my wife is targetting the Envoy XL I6 version. And, we'll go with the 2WD version - instead of our current "gas hog" AWD version. Having AWD/4WD in my area isn't worth it - for me.

    With all this in mind, just wondering how many folks have gone from a Safari/Astro van to an Envoy XL I6 engine replacement? Pros / Cons, would you do it again? ETC. ETC.

    BTW: I do plan to read the many Envoy XL I6 reviews on this forum. If you've gone from Safari/Astro to Envoy XL I6 replacement, just wondering about your "transition / comparison" feedback. This type of feedback isn't usually found in individual User Review feedback.

    Many thanks.

    .
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    Envoy XL last year was 2006 IIRC. The still have the 5 passenger, but the 7 passenger has been replaced by the Acadia/Outlook/Enclave crossovers. So, unless you are looking for a used one, you will need to look at something else. We do have a 2004 Envoy XL and really like it. It will handle 6 adults confortably...2 in each row... You could put 3 in the second row for a short trip, but I would not think that would be comfortable for a long trip...

    RWD I6 gets maybe 18 mpg around town in mixed driving. Hwy cruising tops out at 21-22 in the 70-75 mph range.
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    .

    Thanks for your feedback. Yes. We are looking at 3 year old used vehicles. We bought "new" many years ago and soon after, we discovered it was a lemon. Besides that, we lost tons of dollars on its initial deprecision fall. By doing research and looking for "patterns" (both good and bad) in this forum, we'll be able to determine if a 3 year old vehcile (like the Envoy XL with I6 engine) is a good replacement - for our current 2001 van. Thanks for feedback on your 2004 Envoy XL model. Sounds like a 2004/2005 is worth focusing on. thanks.

    .
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    Another one to keep an eye out for...Isuzu Ascender is pretty much the same as the Envoy... they had 7 passenger versions as well. My understanding in the Ascender was more like the Envoy that the sister Trailblazer. I'm an Isuzu fan owning a '00 Trooper, the Envoy is the wife's daily driver. One difference IIRC was the Limited Ascender had only the V8 engine, can't remember if the Ascender LS had the I6 or not...one thing to look at if you find one of those at a real interesting price point. I'm pretty sure the Isuzu depreciation was even larger than the GMC :-).
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