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Comments
Yes, they should turn the rotors when they change the pads. Since you have never had a brake job, the rotors should be okay to turn unless they are warped, in which case they require replacement for safe, quiet, and smooth future operation. Turning a warped rotor will often lead to a too thin remaining rotor, which will only warp again very quickly from heat during usage.
I think most folks just use the exchange method. When I changed mine at 39K (brownish ting to fluid), the dealer made no attempt to up-sell. In fact he really didn't want me to take the "pan drop" option as it was not necessary with the design of the system.
I've run some "powerful" stuff through my injector system, but my mileage has still deteriorated. I too would be interested in others comments on the dealer's injector cleaning service. I had an '85 Nissan 300ZX Turbo that required the multi-port injectors to be "rodded out" about every 40K miles else performance and mileage suffered badly. I don't know exactly what the dealers offer for these SUVs or whether it is at all worth it.
Chris
My wife however loves it! It will turn on a dime and give her change.
Chris
ken z
1) How good are the DuraStop ceramic pads?. Is that the same as or as good as OEM?
2) Why is it only "front brake pads"? Is it uncommon to have to do the rears, or do they last longer?
3) Does this sound like a good deal?
4) For future info, how long do rotors generally last before they, too, have to be replaced?
Thanks!
3. Don't know. Get a quote from a reliable independent shop (not Midas).
4. At 78K miles, if you need brake pads you should have the rotors turned. Milling the rotors removes imperfections in the surface of rotor, which will allow your new pads to stop better and last longer. Unless you go to Midas or you have rotor warpage that requires a lot of milling to flatten, you should be able to have rotors turned at least twice without replacement. There is some minimum rotor thickness that must be maintained for safety and the mechanic will tell you when you have reached that point. The problem with Midas is that they machine the heck out of the rotors the first time so you have to have them replaced the second time. And there will be a second time because they use cheap pads that wear out quickly. It is a game for them and the sucker line (yeah, I fell for it years ago) is lifetime pad replacement.
got ripped into $900 of service.
had i driven 80 miles to my old mechanic it woulda been about $200-$300.
i only go to midas for the $19.99 oil change adn tire rotation and then nod my head when they attempt to tell me what's wrong.
Where did you get the GM goodwrench deal from, is there a coupon for it?
thanks
ken z
ken z
Thank you
Matt Haskins
Does checking the air in the tires count for 5 check-offs or just one?
Anyone?
SNOKING
Look at post #259 http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?p=841576#post841576
SNOKING
hog
ken z
NOTICE:
Loading cargo that weighs more than 220 lbs.
(100 kg) on the luggage carrier may damage
your vehicle.
When you carry cargo on the luggage carrier of a
proper size and weight, put it on the slats, and
distribute the weight evenly. Then slide the
crossrail up against the rear of the load, to help
keep it from moving. You can then tie it down.
Cargo containers must be loaded on the
crossrails only.
I plan to keep this until it blows up.
Good Luck, good vehicle. Just wash the salt off it every chance you get!!!
1) When a/c is on sometimes the blower blows, sometimes not. Turning the speed up or down does not adjust the air flow. It might blow a little bit but then when driving down the road it turns on full blast. Then on it's own when it wants to starts blowing nothing again.
2) When I turn the car off the A/C Heater Blower does not turn off. Once in awhile if I keep messing with it or turn the car on and off it might stop. It has drained my battery twice now and I have to unhook the battery to get it to stop.
When I hook the battery back up, start the car, I do not turn it on an dit will turn on automatically even though you do not hear it adn then I am back in the same boat again.......
Somebody please help!!!
Thanks Jess
C.B.
C.B.
http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=32751&page=7
C.B.
C.B.
Hello all, I'm happy to say that I've traded my 2003 Envoy XL V8 SLT in at 80,000 miles. Although I have always like the looks of the vehicle as well as the cabin layout, it has been the most troublesome vehicle that I have ever owned. I was hoping to get 10 years out of it, but that just wasn't in the cards.
Awhile back (9/29/7) I wrote up a 50,000 mile report:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.eea2017/18087
Since then the truck has been doing okay, but in the last year, I've had the following problems:
1. Getting hot while towing. On hot days pulling a boat, I started noticing the temperature gauge creeping up on me. Normally, it is rock solid at 210 F. I was a bit worried so I slowed down and turned the A/c off. When I got home, I checked for air flow obstructions, checked and changed the coolant. None of this helped and after that each time I would tow on a hot day (upper 80's or higher), the temp gauge would start creeping up into the 250 range. Generally by slowing down to about 55 and taking it easy up the hills I could keep it around 225 or so. Other than towing, no temperature issues.
2. Speedometer sticking. This started happening last summer. Particularly noticible during longer trips when speed is not varying much. The speedometer starts to stick and then creep up. Eventually, it will get pegged out when going highway speeds. I have some nice pictures of the gauge stuck on 60+ MPH with the vehicle in park. Over time, it does work its way back down (drops about 10 MPH each time it is started) and generally works okay for daily driving. If you are having this problem and want it fixed, there is an outfit in TN (http://www.autoecu.com/) that will do it for less than $100.
3. Engine Noise. This was the final straw. The engine started ticking (sounded like a valve noise) about a month ago. It was bad when the engine was started but after heating up would subside. I was hoping that it would only be a cracked exhaust manifold but when I took it in, I was told that the noise was coming from somewhere inside the engine and he recommended trading it in vs. tearing into the engine. As it was getting worse over time, I got a second opinion and received the same advice.
I would like to thank the contributers to this forum for all the advice and sharing of knowledge. You have helped me through a bad A/C pressure switch, failed blower module, poor auto wiper sensor setup, etc. etc. (unfortunately, more than I care to list here).
Good luck with your Envoys, I hope that mine was the exception, not the rule. Now, off to the Tundra forum!!
Glubash
I really like the ride right now, but then again my 4 X Terrains were getting pretty crappy with some uneven wear.
not sure if they are XL or not, i can look them up.
I went to a cooper dealer and he pushed the lower cost grabbers.
That would be helpful if you can easily do so. It should be either on the sidewall or your paperwork, hopefully. If you have the Grabber HTS XL and like them, it would give me more confidence in getting some. thanks in advance!
Also, the car will fall to the low point of the suspension while driving. Sometimes it will re-inflate while driving, other times it will not inflate until the car is restarted on next use.
I have replaced both axle sensors and the inflation pump assembly. I have checked the accessory inflator Schrader valve inside, no leaks, problem still exists, what next?
Great ride on them so far, and the puppy has puked less since I've changed tires.
You are a blessing!
Jessica
I am from GM Customer Service. Can you please email me more information about your situation? You can access my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
i had the same issue, had my independant guy do that, plus change the transmission fluids and do the transfer case along with some other 100k maintanence work and he charged me $500 total.
shop around, should be routine work.
never had anyone mention the fronts, so sounds like the rears go out "quickly"
no clue what kind went back on my truck