Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I'm going to tell the dealer about this during my next checkup, witch should be very soon.
I don't have any other problem with it, running great, so far. 4500km on it, checkup at 5000.
I did not get the Bose sound system, and regret it now. the sound of the standard delco is good but the bases are so un-natural. I'm renting the thing, so i can't do big modification on it.... Any suggestions ? Thanks!
Craig
to the regular oil gives many of the benefits of pure synthetic at reduced cost. I can't imagine using synthetics if I change my oil every 3000 miles. I think I will add a quart of synthetic and change at 5000 miles (or before if the oil life sensor tells me to). I know people who go 10-12000 miles between oil changes with synthetics.
I can't imagine the filter lasting that long!
GAM
I remember awhile ago, we touched base on purchasing the HID Xenon bulbs for our triplets. Someone on this forum recommended www.carlights.net and stated that this is the "best buy/value" for the money and also the "closest to true HID lights on the market today."
Well, after carefully researching the various brands, I decided to give these bulbs a shot on my 02 Pontiac Grand AM GT1 before purchasing the bulbs for my Envoy. I installed the bulbs today and BOY WHAT A DIFFERENCE they make! The stock bulbs are VERY yellow in comparison to these lights. The new lights give off a much more "brilliant" white light without having that cheap blue effect that you notice on the road today. If anyone would like to see before and after pics, please let me know. I will be more than happy to forward you copies of the pics that I have on file.
I am going to test these lights for the next 30 days before buying some for my 02 Envoy. The bulbs cost $39.95 for a pair, so I decided to start with the Grand Am first since there is only one pair of headlight bulbs in the housing unit.
Thanks!
Dennis D.
IExplore2000@aol.com
I wouldn't say that just adding a part of the oil as synthetic is going to add the same benefit. I use strictly synthetic oils just due to the fact that I run most of my vehicles pretty hard on the road and at the track for 1/4 mile runs. Again, synthetic will flow better, stay consistant and extend the oil change intervals.
GAM2 WROTE:"I can't imagine using synthetics if I change my oil every 3000 miles.... know people who go 10-12000 miles between oil changes with synthetics.....I can't imagine the filter lasting that long!"
Well, on my GTP since it's at the track quite often and I do have some heavier performance mods done to it, I tend to change the oil between 3-5k miles. But then the oil life monitor will reflect the runs at the track pretty well. Without running the 1/4 mile in the winter, it will tell me about every 7,500 miles. In the summer it will bump me to 3-5k miles between changes. Works well.
My wifes Toyota back in 97 went 12,000 miles between changes and today has over 105,000 miles on it with the new owner doing the same. Her current Alero like the GTP, runs at the track and now has 18k miles on it with 7,500 miles between changes.
My LTZ only has about 7000 miles on it and I did change it at 6,000 with the next at about 12,000 or so.
Just my nickels worth.
tim
Also, here are the part numbers that I've also outlined on my web site.
Replace the control modules you have having issues on with:
Special Order 15097470
Special Order 15097471
These should be the same for all the triplets, but for the record, I have an 02 Trailblazer LTZ.
Email me with any questions. Happy to help.
tim
1999 GTP @ 13.689
2000 Alero "GT" @ 15.591
2002 Trailblazer LTZ @ 15.675
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
gam2 - I think I'm going to go with a 5/2 split with Mobil/Mobil 1 and stick with 3K changes. Maybe I'll eventually switch to full synth, but for now I'd rather change every 3K.
Anyone know what that is?
Hope this helps with yours
Paul P
It will not equal the pure synthetic, but will give added performance compared to straight oil.
This came from a major oil producer. That's why there are semi-synthetics on the market.
As to change intervals, I just can't see going 10-12000 miles on an oil change, synthetic or not. I read these long term tests in magazines where their BMW asks for its' first oil change at 10000+ miles. It seems crazy that someone would spend $40000 on a car and try to skimp on oil changes.
As to synthetics, obviously they must be good. Otherwise GM wouldn't put it in 'Vettes straight from the factory.
GAM2
I know a lot of people insist on changing oil every 3000 miles and think that anyone who thinks otherwise is crazy, but keep in mind that oil technology has come a long way. Engines last longer than ever nowadays.
As for synthetics and synthetic blends, the more synthetic you have the better. Basically, regular oil contains a blend of many chemicals, which are comprised of chains of hydrogen and carbon. Some are short chained, thin chemicals, some medium chained, and some longer chained, thicker, more tarlike chemicals. The thicker, long chained chemicals are more prone to breaking into smaller chained chemicals, causing the oil to get thinner over time.
If you took this regular oil and just kept the medium sized chemicals, you'd have something that would have the same viscosity, but wouldn't have the long chained chemicals to break down. This is synthetic oil.
I guess none of this is that important if what they say is true, that most of the engine wear occurs at startup when the oil is in the oil pan instead of on bearings, pistons, valvetrain components, etc. It doesn't matter how good the oil is if it's not where it's supposed to be.
I throw a quart of Slick 50 in every once in a while, but who knows if helps?
And would you please describe the vinyl floor mats you mention. I can't find a picture of them on any of the GM parts sites. Are they the exact size of the carpeted floormats that were standard or are they bigger? And are they heavy duty; i.e. thick? I guess I'm assuming you got them?
Thanks.
Secondly, I have driven many different rental cars from all the major manufacturers and found that all the cars would have a 'drumming' or 'helicopter' sound when both rear windows were down. So this is not unique to the triplets.
It looks great now!
These floor mats conform to the interior contours of your vehicle for an excellent fit and a custom look. The grid pattern collects rain, snow, dust, and dirt to protect the floor from damage. A ribbed backing helps hold the mats in place. Front mats feature the Bravada logo.
There is two color choices pewter, and oak. While I haven't seen them myself the description sounds convincing to me.
The reason I haven't put the oak part numbers up is because I haven't confirmed they are correct from gmpartsdirect.com and I would hate to have someone order the wrong part just because I have it on my fledgling fan site. I have a lot more part numbers from the Bravada accessories catalog, so can I ask the forum members for an opinion.
Should I go ahead and put all the part numbers up on my home page even though I can't be certain they are correct?
Thanks in advance for any opinions on putting up all the part numbers.
enron (2)
envoy (2)
acura (3)
trailblazer (3)
What does this all mean? I don't know.
"It seems crazy that someone would spend $40000 on a car and try to skimp on oil changes." and then went on to say they would mix 5 qts regular and 2 qts synthetic. I don't comprehend.
Go to Autozone and get a Mobil1 oil filter ($9). Go to Wallmart and get a 5qt container of Blue Cap 5W30 Mobil1 ($18) and two one quart bottles of the same stuff ($9). Total cost is $36. Change your oil, and reset your computer.
Drive car.
When computer tells you, repeat.
If you insist on doing it at 3000 miles, just use a Fram filter and Valvoline All-Climate 5W30. Cost is about $15.
But I would never mix oil. If you have to have a blend, buy a blend. My research indicated most blends are not as good as Valvoline All-Climate Dino oil.
Also, 3000 miles of city driving to work and back less than a mile each way and no other driving will for sure mean your oil is high in unburned gasoline, with reduced viscosity (I know this from a sample I had tested on my Lincoln LS).
Opinions on Oil are like mosquitos. Plentiful and a pain. These are just mine. But I've got more important things to do with my time and money than try to out think the folks that do this for a living.
If you want to learn about oil, here are some links. Some are for motorcycles, but motorcyclists are more tuned to the needs of their motors needs than most non-racing auto enthusiasts. Another opinion.
http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm talks about do bikes need a specific oil, but has usefull info on the differences in synthetics vs blends.
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm Is a scientifically sound comparison of different oil in use in a test motorcycle, again, a bike is not a car, but a bike is harder on it's oil than a car.
WichitaGreg
To dshepherd3, I'm having difficulty getting the correct part number from my dealer, they gave me one, but it's description on gmpartsdirect.com is Ski or Bike Rack for Receiver Hitch so I'm not sure it's the right one. I'll call a few other local dealers parts departments first before I post it.
On Bose systems (with the 6 CD changer), if you use the steering wheel control, you can only change CDs but you cannot advance to the next CD track on the current CD. Does somebody know if there is any software update to allow us to do it?
I am one of those 3,000-mile club members. I have used Castrol for years and have burned not one drop of oil from cars I've owned new, and put well over 100,000 miles on most.
However, I am considering going to synthetic and a premium filter for one reason: at the rate my wife and I drive these days, I am changing oil every six to eight weeks on two cars. If I can cut in half the number of times I have to crawl under the car, it would be worth it. I like the recommendation in post 4303, but the wife's car doesn't have an oil life sensor.
The only car I wouldn't do this on is my old Explorer that my teenage son now drives. He puts so few miles on it that it usually hits four months before it hits 3,000 miles. I think my old system, that got it to 140k miles, will get it through high school before I let him trade it.
By the way, this may be an old problem, but I always thought it was a bad idea to mix synthetic oil with the natural stuff. I read something about gelling?
No matter how you dice it and slice it, aluminum expands and contracts at a different rate and in a different amount than iron. Slowing the rate of expansion and contraction is one way to mitigate this problem. Might there be a connection?
I bought my TB with open eyes. I had rented one for several days before I bought mine. The rental agency, upon questioning, told me that the engine had been replaced because of a bad cylinder (no further explanation). The car had 4,500 miles on it when I rented.
The TB is the best SUV for my needs hands down, so I took a risk. I am just happy to have this forum to keep tabs on the experiences of other owners and on how GM is handling problems. To date I have had no problems with my TB LS with 5,100 miles on it.
I remember another post about this. Was there ever an analysis/fix on what happened?
By the way, first tank calculated at !7.6 mpg.
Thanks for the help.
After about 15-20 minutes of driving I get a pain in my lower back. No adjustment I seem to make fixes the problem permanently.
Any armchair chiropractors with any suggestions on finding an optimal seat position?
Thanks.
I remember I read that GM was going to send a gasket of somekind to fix the problem (prototype).
I didn't notice a problem during test drives, but after a few days I developed a pain in my hip joint. My doctor says it is a muscular problem and has sent me to physical therapy, but I clearly did not have this problem in my previous vehicle.
The seat feels alot harder to me and does not have the usual recess where your gluteus maximus goes. The lumbar support also feels excesive even when it is adjusted all the way back.
How many others have had similar problems?
Does anyone know of aftermarket seats for the TB/envoy?
GAM2
John, the rear air deflector and running boards look sweet! Nice Bravada!
There were some posts about 3-5 months ago from other people who found the seats uncomfortable. Also, one of the carpoint reviewers made exactly this comment. So, while I'm sure many of you find your TB/Envoy/Bravada to be very comfortable (and I'm glad that you do), GM ought to be giving serious consideration to redesigning the driver's seat to accommodate more people.
I looked into re-upholstering the seat or getting a new one, but several people said that the cost would be expensive and the results uncertain. In the end, I determined that I wouldn't lose that much more money trading the car than trying to get the seat rebuilt or replaced. Also, before rebuilding or replacing the seat, make sure that doing so doesn't void the warranty.
As for the seats, all I can say is that it doesn't matter how many conceivable adjustments you can make if there's something problematic about the basic design and construction of the seat itself. The complaints about the seats do not seem to be isolated.
To jam1000,
Didn't you test-drive the TB before you bought it? You said within 2 minutes it was quite uncomfortable. That's something you should have noticed... You must have taken quite a bath on the trade-in.
I took a little bit of a hit, ameliorated by the $2,500 rebate on the JGC plus the fact that the Jeeps are slightly less expensive (comparably equipped) to begin with.
I have thought about how I am going to deal with this for 3 plus years. I love the car, but I should not have pain in my calf, foot and heel. I actually started getting shooting pains in my calf.
I also think that the floor bed is not totally flat. This makes it even harder to keep my foot in the same position, because it wants to slide down.
I think GM needs to address the whole seat, peddles and front driver area.
maintenance & repair
"oil changes" and
"Engine oil- a slippery subject"
From all the engineering reviews I have read Slick 50 (and the others) are not worth the price and probably do nothing. The FTC brought suit against them in the late 90's to stop some of their claims. All the info is on this site.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
Tom
Thanks.
Funny thing is that the alignment on my truck is fine, it doesn't pull or anything but the steering wheel isn't straight, it's turned to the right. I was wondering if parts involving the steering had to be moved to get to the seal?