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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy



  • I have the auto climate control. I have two instances of failure to blow cold. both were after unit had been used for about 45 minutes on warm day and then allowed to sit for about 45 min. both were "cured" by engine shutdown and restart.

    Seems to me that a failure while the unit is in service might be a different phenomenon. I also think I remember that someone reported a "low (or high) pressure cutout switch being the cause. An intermittent switch type failure would seem to fit my circumstances better than excess refrigerant, because it always goes away when you shut down and restart.
  • Jurassic3k asked about the Bose CD. It does have a separate amp, located behind the panel behind the right rear door.
  • I have a 2002 TB EXT LT (with manual AC temp). This is a recap of some of the issues I have had:

    1) Service 4WD Light: When the TV/DVD player was installed they cross-wired the ACC 12v with the full-time 12 volts. This caused the vehicle to "diesel" or run-on. All the dash lights flickered quite a bit while the run-on was happening. After this, the "Service 4WD" came on and stayed on for a while. The dealer found diagnostic codes logged but was not able to duplicate the problem. We wrote it off as being part of the miss-wire.

    2) 4WD: I would look down at the selector switch and notice that it was in the 2HI position but the indicator light would either be A4WD or 4HI. This one happened after the miss-wire listed in 1. This was fixed by replacing the 4WD Selector switch. I did not have the multi-failure indicated in some of the other posts.

    3) AC: I live in Phoenix and have not been happy with the AC issues. My dealer did some kind of "pressure switch splice" as he called it and reduced the charge a bit. It is better but there are many times when the vehicle is heat-soaked that the AC doesn't start working for a while. The service manager says he has done all he can do. I plan to place a complaint call with the Chevy Customer Assistance Center.

    4) My fuel ecomony SUCKS (12-14 MPG). My 1990 Suburban did 14 MPG). I did some initial complaining but have not been able to push the issue yet because I have been towing my trailer up the big hill (to Flagstaff) every weekend and haven't calculated the MPG without the trailer tow part recently. I was also more concerned with getting the other stuff fixed.

    Hope this helps people.
    Any more advice on fuel economy would be nice!!
  • It happened after i drove with the a/c on and working fine and then parked for about an hour, no a/c on the ride home. it was over 90 degrees outside. I did not try the shutdown and restart, if it happens again I will try. I let the truck sit for a few hours after I got home and it worked fine. I think it has to do with the high temps and presuure issues
  • I just placed my order with summit racing for my k & n filter and husky liners floor mats, front and back. The filter was $54.99 and the liners were $56.99 front and $56.99 back, cheapest I found anywhere and free shipping and no tax, the only charge is $7.95 handling. I also ordered the McGard locking lugnuts.

    I will have pictures and part #'s on my website.
  • Our problems are listed on post 6902.

    We have the auto A/C and "knock on wood" have not had another incident since they recharged the unit. I hope I did not jinks it. We are expecting a cool down tonight after our 85th straight 80 degree or above day in a row with 35 days above 90. This is Indiana. Our rear A/C control is suppose to be replaced, but the right unit still has not come in. (Post 7211). I did have to replace a tire due to road hazard. The inside side wall was punctured. Not off road, just Delaware County roads in Indiana. After hearing it was not a warranty issue I took it elsewhere for replacement.

    Still have the vibration issues at 57-60 mph.
  • Have you had the tires re-balanced and what is yout tire pressure. I run 35 psi, it calls for 32 but my old blazer used 35 psi and the tires wore better and so far I like it. When I picked up my TB, the tires had 40 psi, it rode alittle bouncy.
  • tlaurotlauro Posts: 504
    As I get ready to retire for the evening, I can't help as many of you all I'm sure, but shed a tear for the many lives that were lost the day our world changed.

    With all the good and all the bad and fun we share here regarding our vehicles, life gave us all a reality check just one year ago.

    Pet your dog, hug your kids, thank a fireman or even kiss your SUV goodnight tonight, but take a moment of silence sometime Wednesday for those so dearly missed.

    I found this slideshow on the web back then in a photography forum I visit and while it is 7mb in size, it's well worth the wait. Thanks to the author who's credits appear at the end.


  • Does anyone know if there is an easy way to connect an auxiliary audio (line out/line in) to the stereo? Just curios before I start digging around looking in there...

    thanks in advance.

  • I have a PDF of the pinouts for this head unit.
    if you want it email me.
    enkrypted at hotmail dot com
  • Does anyone have a part number for the wiper blades?. I'd like to find out how much they cost a and/or dealer before I go to Autozone and buy the best aftermarket wiper blades they have on the shelf.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Those of you that are posting complaints about your fuel economy - what are your axle ratios? 3.42, 3.73, & 4.10 are available.
  • Mine is 3.73. I am unclear on the different ratios and what they mean to fuel economy vs. towing capacity.
  • The ratio is the number of times the driveshaft turns to the number of times the wheels move.
    A higher number means the engine is geared lower so it is better for towing and will accelerate quicker off the line.

    The penalty for a higher ratio is that the engine will be revving higher during highway cruising. That is less efficent leading to worse gas mileage.

    Hoever, I would think that the speed you drive on the highway is a more important factor in gas mileage than the gears you have. Being that SUV's aren't very aerodynamic, if you drive 80mph you're not going to get good has mileage period.
  • cmack4cmack4 Posts: 302
    Actually, I've found you'll see much more of a gas mileage hit if you drive in a lot of stop and go traffic and are a leadfoot off the line, since it takes a lot more oomph to get a heavy vehicle moving. I can routinely get 19-21mpg on the highway at 80mph, but around town I've gotten as low as 13.5mpg. My combined total with about 3/4 of my driving being city is roughly 16mpg. That's with the 3.73.
  • All the TSBs and advisories talk in terms of what month the vehicle was made. I don't remember seeing that listed anywhere.

    I know it is probably staring me in the face but would someone mind telling me. Thanks!
  • tblazedtblazed Posts: 945
    Look on the label on the drivers door above the door latch mechanism. It's there on the upper right corner of that label.
  • I would have to agree with tim, and I have taken a few moments to remember those who passed on this day a year ago. I will always remember it as long as I own my SUV because I bought it the day before. =o( Then the rebates, 0% and everything else came out. Oh, well prices went up too, still think I got a good deal... =o) BTW, I talked to my service advisor yesterday, and he said that its "usually" the 4wd selector switch going bad... huh? I was like "what the *%*#$ do you mean "usually"?????!!" oh, here's the thing, it rarely happens... WHAT?!?!?! how can something that rarely happens have a usual cause? sounds kinda like an oxymoron... arrggh. well, anyways, since the code was gone when I restarted, he says to sit tight and drive the beast over there with the light on so they can read the DTC from the ECU. It really frustrates me when a "rare" problem comes up that has a 10min solution.... if its a rare problem that has a usual source, maybe they should just improve on that usual source and fix the problem all together... ho hum, job security at its finest I guess...
  • K&N just came out with an aircharger kit for the TB. Has anybody heard anything about it? Is it street legal?
  • Many posts back I and a few others commented on the wind shear noise that seemed to when driving at freeway speeds and a strong crosswind occurs. Well, today I was driving on the freeway with all four of my windows down about 3 inches with gusty crosswinds blowing and heard that startling noise from my driver side door. Sooo, I guess it isn't coming from the door/window seal, but sounded more like from the door hinge area. Just thought I'd post this.
  • tlaurotlauro Posts: 504
    The new K&N Aircharger for the I-6 should be street legal. It's nothing more than an open cone with a heat shield. No emissions should change. CA residents may wish to verify as I know many of the inspection points will require the stock intake upon testing.

  • tblazer503, I see nothing wrong with a rare event having a usual cause.

    I'm rarely late for work, but when I am it's usually because of a traffic jam.

    A safety rarely occurs in football, but when it does it's usually do to the ball carrier being tackled in his own end zone - as opposed to a punter stepping out of the back of the end zone or a quarterback being called for intentional grounding.
  • I guess it's time I throw in my comments. I had noticed a problem when starting my TB LT. I would turn the key to run and then start, nothing the first time, started the 2nd time. this happened several times over a weeks time. THEN I was out to lunch, tried to start, NOTHING. Noticed when in the run position the tach bounced around 2500 rpm (engine not running) error messages on the DIC. Called the GM 800 number(I didn't renew my OnStar), was told to turn the key to run and wait for 10 minutes. This would reset the control units. After about 6 or 7 minutes the panel settled down to normal. At 10 minutes car started, no problem for a week. Then problem back again, nothing worked . Called again and was towed at GM's expense to my dealer at 5:30 PM. Next morning they called an said it was ready. (I had a rental at GM's expense). They had replaced the ignition switch. After two weeks, no problems.
  • tblazedtblazed Posts: 945
    Just curious what is the build date on your TB?
  • Anyone experiencing problems with using a synthetic. I have 24K miles on 02 LS Trailblazer and the lifters sound like they are not getting any oil. I have been using Mobile 1 synthetic since the beginning and change it religiously.

    Have also developed a noise that sounds like a blown manifold gasket or exhaust leakage.

    Any thoughts welcome before I take it to a dealer.
  • My TB is an old one, build date 3/01. Bought it in June 01. I have 20K miles on it. Not too much trouble. At 1K I hitched up a 5000lb trailer and drove from Calif to Minneapolis and back, 5000 mi with all the side trips. The check engine lite came on on the way back in Fargo ND. The code indicated a fan problem, cooling was working just fine. Was told that they were redesigning the clutch, not to worry. When I returned home a new clutch was installed, no lite, no problem. I did have workmanship problems weather seals, replaced and ok. Overall I am satisified, expected some problems with an early build.
  • anyone notice that the k&n system unlike the airaid and volant intake completly removes the intake resonator. I wonder how much restriction that resonater has. I wonder how much of a gain if any the k&n has over the other two. My only gripe is that the 4.2 looks really naked without the resonator on top of the engine.

    hhhmmm just checked k&n's site. The kit is listed as an "offroad" kit. That means its not smog legal. But if you pop it back on before emissions you should be ok. Looking at the install instructions that shouldnt be too much of a hassle.
  • The noise is mostly likely coming from the door hinge area. If you open up your doors fully, and look pass the hinge towards the wheel well, you will notice that there is a baffle there. This baffle is just barely hanging there, and it doesn't provide much of a seal. I am still looking for a good solution to attach this better, and also provide a better seal. If anyone has any ideas on how to fix this, please let me know. TIA.
  • 2k_impala_ls
    Our tires are at 33 or 34 psi with the tire stating a max of 35. I will have one of my boys top them up tonight. The tire failure was due to our county roads here. The one near our house had more patch than road, now the patches are gone and we are left with many large holes. We have not had them rebalanced yet.
  • tblazedtblazed Posts: 945
    I found that problem the next day after I bought my TB in Jan (11-01 build). I fixed it myself rather than messing with the dealer. You can reach up through the bottom laying on the floor and go up almost all the way behind the rubber "baffles" so I used a tube of 3M weatherstrip glue, reached up in there applied the glue and wedged pieces of paper towel roll cut to fit between the backside of the wheel well and the rubber baffle overnight to let the glue set. Still firmly in place today. Don't know what that junk was they used at the factory- pre-chewed gum? It was about the same consistency. I just glued on top of that old stuff and has held firmly since.

    I looked at that K&N install instructions link. I could just inagine having to explain that to the dealer service departmant in case of a failure and no chance to restore to stock beforehand. After dragonheads experience with just swapping out light bulbs, seems like they would be looking for any available excuse to void the warranty. I am even reluctant to do a cat-back Borla exhaust because of warranty issues.

    Thanks mcafee1 for the reply that's what I wondered- if you had a really early build.
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