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I did get lucky because the dealer replaced the entire warping bumper under warranty. When the new bumper came in I had the grills cut out before the bumper was painted pewter. I also had the dealer find the TSB for fixing the loose bumper. 5 of 6 new '03 TB's on the dealer's lot also had the warping bumper.
The factory fog lights are not the brightest but it does help to adjust them up (but not too high).
Has anyone found hood bug guards that are clear or painted to match the colors of the TB's?
cmack4, as I recall from the description of the way those sleeves are put into the block, the cast-iron sleeves are super-cooled to make them shrink, then pressed into the block, then afterwards the sleeves (piston bores) are machined to spec. to a 1.5 mm thickness. The sleeve itself is not serviceable from that description. You'd have to replace the whole block or engine [non-permissible content removed]'y.
Got home the other day from a 1/2 hr. trip (approx. 20 miles) and pulled into the driveway as usual. A short time later, I came back to the truck and noticed a puddle forming underneath, approximately even with the front passenger door.
I bent down to see what was dripping, and from where, and noticed what appeared to be water slowly dripping from the frame.
Since the car was parked at a mild up angle, the source of the drip must have clearly been from somewhere else, but where?
All gauges read normal, ride and handling are fine.
I am wondering if this is somehow coming from the A/C, and what the concern level needs to be.
Any input appreciated.
My dealer said they would be happy to get a 02 mirror and install it so the dimming feature would work. I need some feedback on your thoughts on having this done, any disadvantage or advantage. Is it worth the time to have the dealer work on this at no charge to me ??
You got me curious, so I just priced out my fully loaded 2002 Bravada as a 2003 model year... MSRP is up about $1500 do the option packages being broken up. Heck, even TMV has it pegged at $36,081... I paid $32,800, OUCH!
It looks like the only thing they added were power folding mirrors to the Bravada. Did the other triplets get these? I'll have to stop by the dealer to figure out what all they lost.
To avoid this, navigate to another location in the Town Hall and back before doing a page refresh.
tidester
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SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
02 triplets prior to vin 22375120 (last 8 of vin)
T/B - R/S 15184431 L/S 15184430
Envoy - R/S 15184433 L/S 15184432
Bravada - R/S 15184435 L/S 15184434
Take a look:
http://www.dudleymartin.com/Chevy/2310392.html
Oops, just took another look! They have 19 Majestic Red "Redskins Edition" EXT's. Is this a new limited option or something?
"guess they weren't selling enough.." I think they were selling so many they are trying cutting features along with raising prices to see how far they can go before sales are effected. TrailBlazer is #2 seller behind Ford Explorer for mid-size SUVs and that's "0 to No.2" in less than 18 months.
I remember a few months ago GM thought they would make Anti-lock brakes an option on a lot of cars after it was standard for years. Then I think public and media pressure helped put that to rest.
Also had a problem with a complete loss of power at 30 MPH. Engine would not restart. Had to pull / reinstall fuse to PCM to get engine to restart. Dealer contacted tech assistance center and found that the ECAS pump can cause a jolt to the electrical system that some PCM's can not handle. The only way to reset the PCM if this happens is to remove power from the PCM (pull the fuse). The PCM in my Bravada was replaced to correct this problem.
Other problems experienced so far:
ECAS system catastrophic failure (shocks collapsed). Dealer replaced entire ECAS system.
Passenger mirror wander. Dealer replaced actuator.
CD player displays "CHECK CD", stops playing CD, won't eject CD anywhere from a minute to several hours. Problem has not been fixed yet. Radio has been in shop for 4 weeks. Dealer refuses to install new radio.
I also installed an electric brake controller under the dash. This was very easy to do once I located the 4 trailer brake wires (look for 4 wires taped together with their ends taped up under the dash on the left side of the driver wheel well) and connected those to the 4 wires of the brake controller.
The ECAS system works really well with the trailer. Once I hook up the trailer and the rear end drops, it comes right back up to the proper height. The only catch was that because the Bravada was always bringing the rear back up to the proper level, I had to get a hitch with a 5 1/2" drop (versus a typical 2" drop) to keep the trailer level.
I would really think twice about towing much above 5,000 lbs. I once trailered a horse that weighed about 400 lbs more than the one's I normally trailer (bringing the trailer weight to probably 5400-5500 lbs) and the effect was pretty noticable.
the rear's are driven with a locking rear...which kicked in, and thus both rears spun. The A4WD does have a slight delay and thus it was probably too late....or you may not have noticed the front kicked in thus now power is going to 3 fo the 4 wheels. The ABS is used to control slippage on that 3rd wheel. If the ABS has Stayed on it could be due to the PCM thinking there is something wrong as you were still attempting to spin the wheel or causing it to spin. Not sure. Did it stay on or did it go out? There is no locker for the front on these models...different story all together. Paisan will like this thread.
Nothing you can do really. The Bravada's are in A4WD drive mode at all times. The TB and Envoys are selectable.
I've said this a few thousand times that the Viscous Clutch system, while not perfect was much nicer than our current set up. You could have still gotten stuck, but the likely hood would have been much less. SmartTrak is no longer what it was originally when the marketing dept named it.
In sand, you'll want to deflate your tires to around 20-24lbs....again, Paisan can confirm the lbs, but deflation is key on sand.
-mike
Definitely. The explorer guy that I saw wasn't too badly stuck so I said why not just air down the tires and you'll be good to go. He refused though.
On sand you want to go as low as 15psi if it's really really soft. If it's moderately soft you can go down to 20psi. Also depending on your tires. For instance when I had my stock 245-70-16 Bridgestone Dueller 680s on the Trooper I would airdown from 30psi to close to 15psi for soft sand. Once I moved to 275-70-16 Pirelli Scorpion ATs I only drop them from 30 to about 20-22psi for sand use. I also had to do this last winter when driving through 3ft of slushly snowpack over sandy/mud terrain, at the time I was running 35psi in the front and 40psi in the rear, dropped em to 28/32 and didn't have problems after that.
-mike
Personally, with the departure angles and ground clearance of the triplets, I don't plan on doing anything I'd need the lo range for anyway, so I felt the Bravada's AWD system would prove more useful. Not to mention the Bravada comes standard with the rear locker, which IMO 4WD/AWD is a waste without!
-mike
I am nearly 2 months into lease of an LTZ, and generally happy with the truck, though the sales and delivery experience (Potamkin, Manhattan) was mostly bad. The dealer nevertheless tried to persuade me to fill in 'Completely Satisfied'
on the survey I would receive.
I have not yet received the survey, which I do want to fill out. Calls to the Chevy customer assistance line yield different answers each time, the most recent being that the surveys are issued at random.
This doesn't sound right - can anybody verify what the practice is ?
-mike
I'm going to have it fixed under warranty, but I guarantee I'll have problems later on. Historically, I'm hard on car stereo buttons, but why can't they make a button that's durable?
http://www.torquecontrol.eaton.com/prod2.htm
Manual lockers are definitely superior though, so long as you know how to use them. From the time I was about 14 until I got my license (a week after I turned 16 I helped my dad strip a 1973 Landcruiser FJ40, which he subsequently gave me for my 16th birthday. We put in aftermarket ARB air controlled lockers (front and rear) as well as a central tire inflation setup that was similar to the HMMWV's, and had gauges for all 4 wheels. 4 Hella Offroad lights, Warn winch... I kick myself every day for selling it! Especially since I sold it for $10K back in '94 and I see similary equipped cruisers going for $25K now!
-mike
There is no traction control that I am aware of on the triplets. The reason the ABS light came on could be due to the difference in wheelspeed when only one of the front wheels was spinning. As stated, very few vehicles have any kind of anti-slip differential in the front axle. Most don't even have one in the rear. ABS controlled traction control does not always work well in off-road conditions either.
What does surprise me is why there is no lock-up feature on the Bravada. As the unit is controlled electronically, it would be easy to have a switch to engage it constantly in certain conditions. That would eliminate the 1/2 second delay before the front wheels engage. Then again, it's just one more thing that could break............
GAM
Oil sample test on 2002 Bravada.
Mobil 1 5W30 oil, Mobil 1 filter, 7876 miles, 6 months, 33% on Oil Use remaining.
Oil still good.
Mostly city driving with a couple of trips and one long trip pulling a 2000 lb single axle trailer in the Rockies.
If you want more info, email me greg at noller.net
-mike
I have enough confidence in its abilities to take it on the beach, on dirt and gravel roads, across fields, etc. I wouldn't take it through deep mud, across running water, over sharp breaking points, or rock crawling though. Then again, I'm not so sure I'd take any $30K+ vehicle through such conditions... unless I had enough money in the bank to replace its crucial components.
You go offroading enough, so I'm sure you've seen the guy in the grand cherokee who can't understand how he dropped an axle! After all, "It's a Jeep!" It should be indestructible
Yesterday afternoon I spoke with the service manager at one of the local Chevrolet dealerships about the heavy A/C condensation drip from my TrailBlazer. He said that he had to admit that the condensation from TrailBlazers' A/C systems was exceptionally heavy at times--depending on the humidity, when the vehicle was driven last, etc. He did say that it was nothing to be alarmed about. I agree with the other poster on here, however, that the owner needs to make sure that the drip isn't directed towards any of the exhaust components.
Ron M.
Could one of you LTZ owners please check yours out for me?
Thanks in advance!
Ron M.
I have a ski rack that I was using on my 1993 Infiniti G20 that I'd like to re-use with my '02 Envoy XL.
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ross1962 Sep 13, 2002 (07:05 pm)
I use my racks all the time to carry my
Also, if you want to add things like ski racks, all you need to buy is the little adapters that fit to the existing cross bars.
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-mike
The Yakima ones are called "mighty mounts" and their website will answer all your questions about what ones you need and where to get them.
http://www.yakima.com/products/dynamic/8003501_7.html
I don't know if they're compatible with other types of racks, but other companies have the equivalent types of things.
John
http://www.gmc.com/gmcjsp/envoy/
Click on 2004 Envoy XUV link on the left.
My TB has Traction Control (which lets off the gas in the event of wheel slip) and locking diff.
I didn't order it that way, it just came that way. I'd rather just have the locking diff.
I'm almost 100% positive that there was awesome bass in the rear speakers when I first got it. A Chevrolet technician told me that is how it's supposed to be--that the only bass is in the front speakers. Is he talking whack or what?
For those of you with Bose systems in your Trailblazers, can you check to see if you indeed have any bass in your rear speakers? Move the fader all to the rear to really check it out.
thanks for any feedback!!!!
Please reply to this forum or send an e-mail to me at mailto:scott.copus@wku.edu.
thanks!
Scott.