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BTW, does anyone have an issue with the shade in the trunk area (the horizontal visor over the trunk space)? Mine keeps rattling when i hit bumps and stuff..
Tim, I don't know what the deal was, but for whatever reason the PIAAs I had would not fit down into the lamp assembly. (couldn't just insert and twist) I had to remove the screws holding the retainer, remove it, insert the bulbs and place the retainer back over the bulb base... maybe it's the diff. between the envoy lamp housing and the TB lamp housing???
the front has fluid and I think they use the same resovoir so why whould the rear not run? It should at least try to wipe and pump even if empty! Going in on Friday for oil change and several TSBs so I'll have to add this to the list.
Also noticed today a gap on the door where the plastic around the handle and the surrounding trim are separated to the point were you can see some black foam padding in the gap. The widest part is about 1/4". Checked the passenger side and it is the same. Normal fit n finish or something wrong?
I have had the truck for over a year now. Reached 20k miles. Mileage is ~17 winter, ~18 summer with mixed hwy/city/backroads/hills. About the same my old Jimmy got.
Still like the truck and happy with the purchase. Only had the usual nits and most have been fixed w/o too much trouble...
1. - They tested, in every test I could find, a 4x4 model with the 5.4 engine. I am only considering a 4x2 model with the 5.4 engine. These vehicles have a weight difference of more than 200 lbs!!!
2. - I've test drove both vehicles (in the configuration I want) and I see little to know difference in "power". In fact, with the transmission lag that was apparent in both the Tahoes and the Yukons I've driven, I would say the Expedition almost felt quicker.
3. - The fold down seat thing (along with the heated and COOLED seats, more hip room, better quality record, etc.) is VERY IMPORTANT TO ME and is the deciding factor. It's convenient and thats what these vehicles are all about.
4. - I'm buying a large SUV, I couldn't care less if the fuel economy is a few under one vehicle to the next.
To top it off, If I can find a person to take over my lease (which I think I have) and then as soon as my STS lease is up I will be PERMANTENTLY severing my 15+ year relationship with GM. After the last few weeks of their e-mails essentially stating that "since I'm in a lease my satisfaction with the vehicle is of little concern to them" (paraphrased, of course) I will not even consider the Tahoe now, especially with the advantages of the Expedition.
I've, all my life since having a family in the GM car dealership business, been GM loyal but not anymore.
I took it in & it required a PCM (or BCM) unit replacement. It's a major component because all the driver preferences and key fobs needed reprogramming. It took 1 day to fix (as long as dealer has part).
John
By the way, you may want to check with your local AAMCO and ask them what SUV's they see in their shop the most (Ford).
Why not sell it outright to someone, and pay off the balance of the lease.
As far as Ford having higher quality standards than GM or anyone else, it all depends on the particular car you get. I've had Ford E 150 vans since 1976 (3 of them). They have all had their share of problems.
Frank
Make sure the nozzle didn't move(slide) on the arm and kink the hose.
Lurker - There is only one washer fluid reservoir so if your front washers work so should the rear. The problem is probably in the yards of washer hose to the back window. You can try to look at something simple by looking at the hose on the wiper arm itself. It should be fully extended and not kinked. If it is OK bring your truck into your dealer to check the rest of the hose. The two easiest places for him/her to access the hose is behind the quarter glass molding on the driver's side of the liftgate opening and under the carpet in the passenger's rear door area. The fastest way to diagnose is to cut the hose at those junctions to see if fluid flows from the pump. Make sure they have a good splice to fix the hose from diagnosing and if a kink is found and cut out. - Snuffy '92
I've noticed a very high-frequency buzz that seems to be emanating from my OnStar- and compass-enabled rear view mirror. I'd like to know where this 'overhead speaker' is, as I've been through most of the electrical schematics of my Envoy and didn't notice any OnStar-specific speakers.
I'm going to guess that our buzzing sound is caused by a noisy coil winding in the step-up circuit that provides sufficient voltage to illuminate the vacuum fluorescent display of the electronic compass. I've noticed that the refresh of the VFD seems to correspond with this sound (listen carefully and shake your head back and forth quickly while watching the compass. You'll see that the display actually flickers.)
I'm 23 and my high-frequency hearing is still very good; older friends and relatives cannot hear the buzz or say that it's hardly noticeable. So I drown it out by turning up my stereo system.
Anyway, maybe other people can corroborate my findings...
Best,
Jeff
At speeds above 10-20 MPH I get an intermittent high pitched noise that seems to come from the underhood of the vehicle on the right side. The noise comes and goes and does not seem to increase or decrease in volume or frequency with engine or vehicle speed. I thought maybe it was a noisey built, but tried some belt dressing and that didn't help.
With the cold weather in Michigan I noticed the fan clutch noise at start-up. This morning I noticed my headlamps and interior lights got brighter about 10-15 seconds after start-up. Strange. Also, I got my driver side window down this morning and it took a couple minutes to get it to go back up. No whining noise from the window....it'd be quiet...go up a bit...stop for a while...then a bit more until it got all the way up. Once I got in to work it was fine.
Could all of these problems be related to a bad generator or a slipping belt? Your help/comments before I take this in to the dealership are apprecited.
Thanks
John
I only lease so I don't really care how many old Expeditions, Tahoes or whatever they are seeing in the shop. The real tale is these boards and they speak wonders.
I am NOT sub-leasing. I will be transferring my lease through GMAC. This is not like sub-leasing an apartment and sub-leasing is not even an option with GMAC as it violates the terms of the contract. Once the deal is done I am no longer, in any way, connected to the vehicle or the lease. The transferee has to go through the same process as if he were leasing the vehicle and the lease is transferred to his name and he makes the payments to GMAC. We do have to pay a transfer fee, however.
It's amazing how little people know about leasing and how much they talk about them.
I am not sure a blocked hose is to blame, however, because the wiper does not even do a dry wipe when the button is pressed. Nothing happens at all. The fronts work fine and the rear wiper will run when turned on the normal way. Just the washer mode that does not work.
It's going into the dealer Friday for several issues anyways...
Backwards roof rack cross rails
Rear Aux power port leaves indent in seat when folded.
Front end binding at slow speeds when making sharp turns.
thanks.
Frank
Backwards roof rack cross rails 02-08-67-005
Rear Aux power port leaves indent in seat when folded. 02-08-49-009
Front end binding at slow speeds when making sharp turns. 02-04-21-008
It's actually a very good way to get out of a lease early without the penalties and for someone who may want a short-term lease but does not want the high payments and the normal capital cost reduction.
Case in point - I have a 36 month lease, where I put $2,500 down as a cap cost reduction (mostly GM card points) and pay $546 / mo.
For only $595 (GMAC transfer fee) the new lessee will have a 17 month lease, with no money down (except the transfer fee) and pay $546 / mo. Not bad as I am below my mileage and the car is in excellent condition (well, besides the obvious defects as noted in the several posts I've made.)
I was reading the Liberty forum, and the tone over there is VERY VERY different!
Wow!
Funny, eh. I went over to that discussion and it's not all that different. There are plenty of problem posts, talk of lemons, and complaints of poor mileage.
Upper end Trailblazers, Envoys, and Bravadas have attracted an older crowd and the fact is that as you get older you have a greater tendency to be crabby.
That's because Chrysler owners are accustomed to settling for less.
So, why don't you just go ahead and buy the damned thing? You've been praising it in here while knocking the tripletts. I really don't understand why you are constantly posting to this board if you don't own a triplett and apparently have no intention of every owning one.
This is not a "chat room" - that's where my teenager goes when he wants to socialize. This is a forum specifically for owners of these vehicles where we discuss problems we are experiencing so that collectively we can solve them and get on with it. There's other forums on Edmunds and elsewhere where you can "chat" about general issues concerning vehicle ownership - I'm sure you're aware of those.
The only message I've gotten from you is that tripplet owners must be fools to hold on to them. Some of us who have lemons have gotten rid of them. Others are working through the problems. Most first year vehicles have problems. Most of us realized that when we bought them. Heck, we totaled our first Bravada, which had several of these problems, and then we went right back out and got another one to replace it. Why don't you at least take a test drive in one and see for yourself what the attraction is. They really are nice vehicles.
Just please stop the high school-like "chat" that doesn't enhance the discussion, it's just annoying.
"forum"? "chat area"? "online community"?
whatever.
Frank
baitisj: Thanks for the hint (I think). I'll talk to the dealer about it next time around.
GAM
tidester, host
Post 9035...you bought and sold a problem Bravada and then bought another one????
I had an 02 Bravada and sold it 9 mos after purchase. I would not repeat that .
Go anonymous02!
John
Check the little things first. Is the hose kinked? The washer nozzle attaches to the wiper arm with a simple clip held in place with a plastic dimple. A car wash brush can move the nozzle out of position and kink the hose, preventing fluid flow. If the wiper itself doesn't work, check your fuses. If that's not it, check--or have the dealer check--the wiper motor. Finally, if the simple things don't fix it, it may be time to suspect bigger things, but even then I'd suspect the liftgate module before I'd jump to the PCM!
All (3 or 4) of the TBs had the front fascia "warp" to some extent.
They had an XUV version of the Envoy but the roof and gate weren't working, so they couldn't demo it. The explanation was that it was a preproduction model.
They had just one Bravada, and it had a hideous interior color scheme of all black dash area with tan remainder of the interior.
Unrelated, but I've got to get one of the new Z's!
You stated that the "list" was $32k on your Mitsu but you did not state how much the negotiated purchase price was on the car. That is very important because monthly payments have nothing to do with the list price. They are basically the difference between the capitalized cost (Your purchase price minus any money/rebate you put down) and the residual cost plus interest on that amount.
I save my money (and get GM and Citibank Drivers Advantage rebates) during my lease terms in order to reduce the cap cost on my next lease. I'd rather save that interest than pay it to the lease company.
Regarding selling it to the dealer on turn in, if you negotiate your lease properly this should never be a good option. The best lease has the smallest cap cost (price you agreed to purchase the car for) and the highest residual value (value of the vehicle at lease end). I hope you are not thinking of doing that with your Triplet. I purchased my Bravada in May of 2001 when things were better and I negotiated a very high residual. Now the residuals (and values) are much lower. So much lower, in fact, that the "Trade-In" value now (with 1.5 years to go in the lease) is only $3,200.00 more than the residual value I negotiated in the lease. I suspect that the "Trade-In" value at the actual end of my lease will be several thousand dollars less than the residual value I negotiated. As far as getting back the sales tax, I'm not sure how that would work as you are paying for the use of the vehicle. I suspect the dealer is giving you this credit as a way to make sale and either eating it or padding it into the deal somehow.
Good luck with your Mitsu.
Thanks.
Do you have 4WD?
thanks in advance.
Is is just because the 4WD version is heavier or is there an extra drivetrain power loss from a 4WD even in 2Hi mode.