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We've been back to the dealer 6 times in the last three months. The last few visits every few days. Last night I managed to drive it about 5km from the dealership before it acted up again.
Once reset, the van drives fine for a while and then progressively drives worse and worse. Shifts get rougher and rougher and the van seems to bull after around 70kph. It's almost like being hit by a strong gust of wind while driving on the highway only over and over every few seconds. Shortly after this starts, the van goes into limp mode.
The dealer has replaced the Selenoid pack and the valve housing twice. They have also checked the wiring and replaced the PCM and its wiring harness. All to no avail.
They're now dismantling the transmission to check out its inner workings.
Any ideas on what all this might be caused by?
The
As for sbigras, I might be inclined to find a different service center as yours seems pretty incompetent. Were it that I was working on your van I'd start by looking at the wiring harnesses and connection points, I suspect an electronic short. Long story short, if your transmission operates normally, even for a short period of time, then there's a pretty good bet the mechanical portion of your tranny is still serviceable.
Other common problem areas include (but are not limited to) the following items:
-- Use of the incorrect ATF, these transmissions absolutely-positively REQUIRE Chrysler's MOPAR ATF+4 (i.e. not Lucas, not Amsoil, not Dextron, not Mercon, and no "Universal" ATFs), and only ATF+4. If you suspect your service center has been using the incorrect fluid, fire them immediately and find someone that knows what they're doing.
-- Plugged or damaged cooling lines/external transmission cooler.
FWIW #1, if I recall correctly, the pan magnet is on the passenger side if you feel inclined to pull the pan, change the filter and freshen the fluid yourself.
FWIW #2, stay away from Aamco, they're an obscene rip-off when it comes to these transmissions; ninety-nine times out of one-hundred they’ll say, "Yup, you need an new transmission..." without even testing it or finding out what is actually wrong with the unit in question.
Keep us posted.
Best regards,
Shipo
I think I know where the solenoid pack is located on the car, right front bottom. I can't see if from the top, and have been too hot and lazy to check it from the bottom.
Some websites are pointing to the speed sensors. I doubt that they are bad, but what is the rational for suggesting it? Just because they are cheaper than the solenoid block that is related to the fault code??
Who has Chrysler ATF 4 cheap? I figure I will replace the fluid and filter while I am at it,,, or perhaps when I drop the pan I will find something(s) that might indicate it is too late.
I heard a clunk in the tranny while pulling away from a curb last week. Then the check engine lite came on and I am stuck in second. Check the error codes and saw the 7055. The tranny was rebuilt 100k ago and has been solid until last week. I sometimes pack more crap in the van than I need too, so I might be at fault too.
Does anybody have any links to pictures, diagrams, or problem flow charts online?
Regards, and thanks,
Badtranny 2010
I took my van to a transmission shop, they said it was sending out codes that it was overheating. They also showed me my transmission pan with much metal and told me it was time to rebuild it.(with 130,000 miles I thought this sounded right) So we did and it just so happened that the weather cooled off. I went through fall, winter and spring without a hitch. Summer came and I had to go back to the shop. It was sending the same codes. So they tried to put something in learnig mode but that didn't work. Then they replaced the solenoid, it continues to go into limp mode.
I don't know what to do, this is just a guessing game :confuse:
Has anyone out there had this exact trouble?
also my engine light comes on after it goes into limp mode, I don't think it did that before the rebuild. Aftr sitting overnight, the next day it is usually gone. Then the whole senario starts over.
You can't make a statement like this unless you've been to every AAmco in the country.. My nephew runs 2 of them and I'll put thier work up against anything you do, anytime ,any day..
Me: "But what if its not the Speed sensor?" (I'd heard that line before)
Him: "It IS. 100% garantee". He gave me a good price and told me it could be the speed sensor OR its connector plug. Either way less then $200. I scheduled the repair.
I was thrilled..... but being a cheap and resourceful guy When I got home I managed to get an engine diagram showing the location of the sensor. I found it unplugged it and scrubbed the plug and sensor contacts with GOOP and a toothbrush. After rinsing & drying everything thoroughly, I waited and then connected it back up and.....
VOILA!!!
I never had a problem with the transmission again. Damn I forgot to buy lunch for that mechanic.who saved me the cost of a new tranny.
This usually will happen while your getting up to speed but wife says it surges and seems to jump most of the time.
Transmission fluid is full.
Any ideas?
Long delay without my wheels - 8 days. Is there a run on this part? Common vehicle - should have stocked parts.
About all you can do is have the trouble codes read to see if there's any hint there, and then have hydraulic pressure tests performed to isolate the problem.
I'm in the UK and have the Grand Voyager (same as the caravan), and am having exactly the same problem. My issue is compunded by the fact that no-one over here seems to know what the hell they're doing with it, and will just default to saying it needs a new transmission.
When it went into limp mode I called out the AA and to my amazement the guy that came to me used to live in the states and had spent 20 years working on these gearboxes. He told me also that it was the output speed sensor, 100% guaranteed, and the codes and the fact that the speedo didn't work just backed that up.
I decided to take it to my local Chrysler Main dealer, thinking they would know what they were doing. They charged me £150, and as I drove off the forecourt the light came back on and it started doing the same thing. I took it back to them, and they said it needed more diagnostics - another £100. My question to them was - Why hasn't it fixed the speedo if you've replaced the correct sensor? they said - I don't know!!!
The clip that plugs into the sensor was damaged, and the dealer just cable tied it on to secure it - is it possible that it could be the plug that is also faulty?? :sick:
You could try to locate one at www.car-part.com
What kinda noise?
We bought our 1998 DGC Sport 3.8 new in July of 1998 and it was my wife's daily driver and the family vacation vehicle for the next five years until she bought a new 2003 DGC ES 3.8. While we didn't actually need a third vehicle at the time, we opted to keep the 1998 as a "Home Depot and dump-run" hack, and over the next two years the odometer advanced from about 72,000 miles to about 75,000 miles.
In 2005 I took a new contract that had me driving a bit over 120 miles per day (just for the commute) and decided that leasing another BMW was probably not a good option given 30,000+ miles I was likely to drive per year, and as such, I pressed the 1998 into service as my daily driver. Less than a year later I found myself rolling down an exit ramp as I watched the odometer click over to 109,000 miles and throught to myself, "Hmmm, I don't remember this ramp being bumpy before now." It turns out it wasn't; the jarring I had felt was the transmission lunching on itself.
The rest of the van was in pretty good shape and so I opted to put a factory remanufactured transmission from Chrysler into it for the cost of $2,600; turned out to be a good decision. While I changed contracts a few times between then and 2008 when I sold the van, I managed to rack up enough miles on the old girl to just turn over 180,000 a couple of days before I got my new car. So, the cost of the tranny spread over 71,000 miles worked out to a hair less than 3.7 cents per mile. Not too shabby.
Does this mean I will need to replace my Torque Converter which means a rebuilt transmission?
I have a late 90's T&C Lxi and it got into an accident.
While going 40miles an hour the van hit the curb and the bottom of the car was hit badly.
After the car was towed to my drive way i looked at the damage and saw that the transmission sump and the hose running in front of it were hit and broke.( along with other minor parts)
Can someone tell me if its possible to change the sump itself without taking out the transmission and what hose is located in front of the sump (towards the bumper)
Id appreciate it very much if someone could help me out and explain it to me.
Thanks
I do not know what the hose is you're referring to. Our Grand Caravan is not at the house right now or I would crawl under and have a look.
will defenitly get to work on it when i can.
Im not at my place, so i dont have any of my tools to do the job so it wont be a job for this week.
The hose itself is completely torn and cant see where it leads too
So if someone could still help me out with saying what it is and where i might be able to find a new one , would be very much appreciated.
thanks for the help
A) the reverse flow of the fluid during the process can (and often does) damage internal valve bodies and such,
possible contamination from dirty fluid (many shops do not properly maintain the fluid in their flush machines), and
C) the potential for the introduction of non ATF+4 fluid (in the case of your transmission) that WILL negatively impact the ability of your transmission to shift (due to the incorrect friction properties of the new fluid). Here again, many shops use "universal" ATF, a fluid that is "universal" only in the sense that it is universally bad for all transmissions.
I recommend you get whatever witch's brew of ATF out of your transmission by either dropping the pan and refilling with ATF+4 several times with say twenty or thirty miles of driving between each pan drop. As an alternative, if you have an oil extractor you can simply suck roughly a third of the ATF out of your tranny and then refill without having to drop the pan.
Wondering where to start. Someone suggested a TSB regarding "low reverse accumulator cover & o ring" but to me, it seems that TSB does not apply to 3.3 engines ! any help would be appreciated.
Suggest you check the Dip Stick [engine running, in Park] for oil quantity. Wipe Stick with clean white cloth to check for Color of Oil [ pink preferred] .
If oil level is low, add ATF 4. If color is brown, it needs replacing. If color is black, a professional opinion may be needed to assess the risks of changing the oil.
Checking the tranny for computer codes and measuring the pump pressure to determine if internal leakages are present, may be necessary steps to take as part of the diagnoses.
[ Tasks for transmission facilities ].
I wish you well with it,
ed0628
99 T&C Transmission issue. When driving to the store, the tranny just gave out like it was in neutral. I shifted back and forth from N to D and it finally caught again. It did that 10 times in 2 miles while trying to drive home. Is it dying on me? Or could a fluid change get us some more use out of this old friend? Thanks.
Symptom is when sitting still speedometer fluctuates between 10 and 20 mph, making transmission think vehicle is moving and causing sensor fault.
This is the strange part, if I do not have anything electrical running (lights, heater turn signals) everything is fine and Speedo is at 0. If I turn on anything - Speedo starts fluctuating and I get failure.
I have replaced both sensors, Battery, and cleaned all connections connectors and terminals. When I put a DVM across battery I get 12.3 volts, crank engine and I get 14.5. When I induce failure I do not see any change from the 14.5 volt readings.
I wish the alternator wasn't $200 and I would replace it to see what happens, but not sure this is the issue? Any ideas on what I could try?
http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/12477-Any-manual-transmission-tu- rbo-vans-out-there