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I've heard that trying to dislodge the vehicle from mud or snow by rocking where spinning just one wheel usually occurs is the cause.
Regards,
Dusty
I had a re-built tranny job and now the solenoid assembly is leaking, Any advice on this repair.
I swore I would never own another Dodge after my 1996 Caravan disaster. The transmission on that one went out at 89,000 miles and I never had any warnings. One day it just wouldn't go into reverse. I thought that this one might be better since the transmission has already been replaced.
FWIW, I don't really know how other transmissions feel when approaching a stop since our two Caravans are the only automatic transmission equipped cars either my wife or I have ever owned. Said another way, maybe what I think is normal is really a problem and I just have no frame of reference to realize that fact.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Anyway, a question for the forum experts please. In reading this transmission forum, it is somewhat apparent that a DIY transmission oil change might not be prudent. I have the repair manual and it really doesn’t mention this loss of prime and control unit reset issue.
Since I do as much of my own service as possible I had thought this oil change would be a piece of cake. What exactly are these issues and what specifically will this loss of prime do if you just drive it “carefully (?)” and let the transmission “adapt”? Also, is the DC reset routine built entirely into the tool or do they also get new flash via their intranet hook-up. Does anyone sell a reset tool?
Waiting to get down and dirty with transmission oil,
BobCat
BobCat
Next time I will go to the dealer, though as the chain transmission place I had it done last was a bit less than impressive. I think they caused more problems than they solved. This was on a 96 Caravan W/3.3 V-6, by the way.
I had a small shaft seal leak which I knew about beforehand, which they fixed when they did the fluid/filter change, but soon after I developed another leak. I took it back to them thinking it was related to their error, and they claimed it was a leak in the solenoid gasket, supposedly unrelated to their transmission fluid change. So I paid them to replace this gasket
Later on I still had a leak, and this time I looked into it myself and found that the hose clamps at two of the four ends of the transmission cooler hose lines had not been tightened up enough,. probably left loose by them. The third one had been overtightened and stripped so the clamp would not pull tight. I replaced one and tightened them all on my own and now all seems well.
If I had it to do over, I would have gone to the dealer for the service, and hopefully their better(??) trained mechanics would have not screwed up. I think I may have paid for a solenoid gasket replacement that was not the problem, but I have no proof.
a couple of times in cold weather the transmission would shift out a gear when first starting in the morning, but it would go "normal" right the way.
yesterday it slipped going down the highway exit.
since then i only can get second gear and reverse.
any ideas on how to diagnose the problem.
the van did not have any transmission work or fluid change in the last 60,000. it has now 165.000.
thanks for the help
If it were me, the first thing I would do is get a transmission fluid flush and a new filter. Make sure they use the correct fluid for your transmission. I believe you need ATF+3 for that year vehicle (check your owner's manual). Using the wrong fluid type will really screw things up.
I'd start there and hope for the best.
After looking at my manual and reading some of the post on this site, I'm not sure I did the right thing. The recommended maintenance suggests inspecting the fluid but not changing it at 30,000 miles. Should the fluid be changed at 30,000 miles?
Also, if I don't know that the newly installed fluid is ATF +4, should I change it again, or??
Any informed advice would be appreciated.
Additionally, we hear a hum or whining sound coming from our van while driving at low speeds, particularly when cold. It's unclear where the sound is coming from. Any thoughts on the source and significance?
Best Regards,
Shipo
Should I still pursue replacing the new "Tuffy installed ATF +4" fluid with a product produced by the OEM?
If they used AFT+4, ask to see the bottle! If they can't produce the container marked AFT+4, run and get it to your dealer for the correct fluid type. I haven't any idea if the AFT+4 from Autozone is the same as from Chrysler.
If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for this transmission service? Was it a flush or a drain and fill? How many Qt's of transmission fluid did they use?
Total cost was about $116.00. I have a sick feeling in my stomach now . . I probably just wasted $116, right? This is on top of a front brake job that cost $76 for pads, $69 to install, $20 to machine rotors, $10 for parts cleaner, $7.60 for contact point cleaning abrasive, $8.99 for small parts,$39.99 for hardware, $59.99 for brake fluid bleed and flush, and $4.00 for brake fluid. A whopping $292. Any thoughts or helpful advice?
Some of the parts/services for your brake job is out of line also, but that's another story. Contact the the CEO of the quick lube place explain your position and ask for your money back for the transmission service. If your out $116.00 for the transmission service it will be cheaper in the long run than a $3000.00 transmission replacement bill later.
Good Luck.
miles) with a 2.4L Inline 4, 3 speed engine. The gears started acting
up, i took it in for a radiator and transmission flush. They pulled
the trans dipstick and it was a milky pink color. Opened the
radiator-same milky pink color. they said that moisture was getting
in somewhere-no leaks found. They said it looked like radiator was
cracked. Took it it to get fixed-new radiator (was cracked) and both
coolant and trans flushed 2x. A few days later trans started acting
up. opened hood, pulled trans dipstick out, back to cloudy color.
Opened the plastic coolant container-very dirty. opened actual
radiator-was green and clean but noticed dots of red trans fluid
floating. Neighbor had me turn on van and run and he told me that it
coolant wasn't turning like is should. Any help or in put-the radiator
and flushes where done by a mechanic friend of a friend and dont want
to go back to them but dont want to get taken for a ride either.
I should mention that the trans was slipping periodically while in (3yr/36000)warranty and dealership charged me for the checkup when they checked it and found nothing wrong)
You will have to find out what repair they did to correct the old cracked radiator and go from there.
Good Luck!
Is it the starter? Or is it something else? What kinda bucks to repair/replace if it's the starter? Is the starter something a novice with oil changing experience can replace? Or should this not be tried at home?
Really trying to keep this on the cheap.
As always, any assistance or comment is greatly appreciated.
If you want to diagnose the battery on the cheap, which is the way I try to do things first also, I would pull the battery, take it to a parts place (assuming you have use of another vehicle) that can test it. If it is bad, buy a new battery and install it yourself.
If the battery tests OK and the engine does not turn over at all, it probably is the starter.
Starters are usually not very hard to replace yourself, just take a look at it's location and judge for yourself if you want to tackle it. Usually just a couple of bolts and a couple of electrical connectors.
You can usually buy a remanufactured starter at discount type auto parts places fairly cheaply with a credit for bringing back the old starter.
The power output, and the weight being pushed around, now, by 180 HP and upwards is just too much, no matter how they try and strengthen the parts. The transmission (Transaxle) now already contains an amazing collection of add-on brackets, locking devices and other patch-ups for whatever part failed last, and the list goes on.
I too had a catastrophic failure of the differential on a 97 short w.b.caravan,that I look after carefully. Every transmission shop in town knows about this weakness,and some go so far as to predict that every Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth
van out there will similarly fail. As for the fluid, why would you take a chance. Up here (Kingston, Ontario) the dealer trans fluid costs the same or less than it does
at any jobber, and you know you are getting the latest revision. I hate to side with Chrysler on anything, but the fluid does get revised. The same goes for the filter, get the right one, change the fluid a 40 000Km or 24 000 miles and you have done all you can do. I like to also flush the cooler, but that's just me being picky. I hope this helps. I'm sorry to say your transmission is bound to fail, but the proper fluid and filter might buy you a little time.
Don't post about things you know little about.
I'll bet that there isn't a single design structure, component, sub-assembly or overall dimension that is common between the old VW tranny of the original OmniRizon and the 4-Speed AutoBox on either of my two 3.8 liter GCs (one from 1998 and the other from 2003). Wait, wait! I may have spoken too soon, I think that the knurled cap to the speedometer cable might be the same. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
If you don't want to get dirty looking underneath, crank the wheel hard left on any front-driver and look inside the left wheel well toward the transfer/idler case cover. Its a specific and unique shape, not used on any other trans. Its the same on the chrysler vans as it is on the neon as it was on the k/p/d cars as it was on the L Cars and their variants and as far back into the 80's as my service manuals go. Ask a trans shop, the outside dimensions of the case define how much and how big the stuff you can put inside, and that hasn't changed. Mistake I Think not, ,just a good memory based on a lot of hard work.
Sure, the old first/reverse and intermediate bands are gone, and the electronically actuated clutches have given this transmission a (potentially) new lease on life, but
every transmission shop has a pile of grenaded differentials with welded pinions, broken cases, shattered ring gears and frozen bearings to attest to the fact that you simply cannot continue to overload an already undersized design. My statement stands, the first engine in the L car was basically a Simca from Chrysler's European stable, a quick, and possibly more confident way for Chrysler to get into front wheel drive in North America in the gas shortage of the 70's. Chrysler subequently used a Volkswagon engine, and when they developed their own OHC engine it had to fit the existing transmission.
And that seems to be the point in time where that transmission case became a constant in design. Chrysler do have a different fwd transmission design, which I believe is used in some of the high-end front drivers(Cars), but to the best of my knowledge has not been incorporated in the cab forward van, because its design uses a north-south engine arrangement, with the transaxle behind it.It took them 15 years to get their electronic trans controls half-way reliable, maybe they should just buy the raw product from Honda or Toyota and rebadge it, but come to think of it one of the first-year Dodge or Plymouth fwd minivans was a Mitsubishi, (Dodge I think), but I never worked on one.
Chrysler's engineers are asleep on this one, or more likely have been assigned
to future designs. In case you think I am ragging on unnecessarily about Chrysler, there isn't a dealer in Ontario (Canada) that can get replacement diffferentials, for these trans, the factory is back ordered about 600 units.And that's just the diff.I had to go to the aftermarket for parts.There seem to be a few other issues also with these units.
.
Anyway all that cab forward stuff is nice, but with the trans out I found out that cab-forward means more parts forward-as in out where the salt is. My P.S. pump and pully were rotted away, p/s fluid was putrid from being overworked, water pump was shot, all at 100 000Km (60 000Miles) Sincerely wish you better luck with your GC's, would hope that your newer GC has a different style transmission.
Want to hear a giggle (Just between me and You) Speedometers, or whatever that round thing that indicates speed is called nowadays have been electonically controlled for years, something about picking up signals from the VSS reluctor wheel. Anyway not to be picky, but the last car I had with a speedometer cable was a 76 Gremlin and it attached with a nylon clip, not a threaded ring.
Anyway here's to us both for continuing to support Chrysler, I do get the lemons, a 73 Dart built during a labor strike, a couple of K cars - enough said - Best Regards
and sorry for going on & on, I just like cars I Guess.
A thought that might explain the lack of similarity between the transaxle on our old Neon and either of our GC's; does the transmission on the 3.8 differ from the unit on the lesser engined vans? I was always under the impression that all of the four speed units were pretty much the same regardless of which V6 engine was providing the urge. That said, both of our vans have not been lightly used or babied in any way, and both have been virtually bullet proof.
Will the transaxle eventually go? Most likely. If either of them fail somewhere north of 100K, will I mind? Not in the least.
Then again, I guess I don't get the lemons. Had a 1970 Challenger, a 1985 Turbo Daytona, a 1989 LeBaron GTC (with the inter-cooled turbo mill), a 1995 Neon Sport, a 1998 GC Sport 3.8 and the 2003 GC ES 3.8. Through them all, I don't think I paid anything out of pocket other than normal maintenance. The 1989 LeBaron, given its limited production nature did have two failures out of warranty, both the NipponDenso Alternator and the Fuel Pump (Mitsubishi?) self destructed, however, in both cases, Chrysler fixed them for free. Go figure.
Best Regards,
Shipo
The beastie, with a paltry 66,000 miles on it, decided that it no longer needed it's transmission this weekend. My wife was driveing in town and she heard a Bang..which she though was something like a blown tire. Well she parked a local store to get something..and upon returning saw a puddle of fluid forming under the engine area. She drove the 1-2 mile trip home.
The Tranny fluid was Pouring out from underneath the engine when the car ran (parked in garage) . I threw 2 quarts of fluid into it prior to driving it ot my local tranny service place.
They claimed something inside came loose and cracked the casing..Not sure of the terms casue when they stated best case scenario was $600 and worst was like $2200. I checked with Dodge in hopes that I was lucky enough to get a 7/70K warranty. Apparently they don't do that.. as standard.
Is it me..or should we be sick of american companies not backing thier producst for the long haul. I mean Hyundai and Kia can back thier trannys for 100K or 10 years..but the big three cannot!!?
I got screwed by chevy under the 3 yr /36K deal with the AC compressor dieing at around 40k...now Dodge with the Crappy Trannys.. Time to go foreign I think. At least the base warranty will last the lenght of the LOAN!!!
:sick:
You should ask the Odyssey and Accord owners in my neighborhood about their transmission horror stories. Of that group (2 Oddy's and 5 Accords), only one Accord hasn't needed a new transmission, it has a 5-Speed Manual. Of the remaining 6 vehicles, they have required collectively seven new transmissions, four under warranty, and three out of pocket.
It is an established fact that the Honda transmission is, if anything, significantly less reliable than the Mopar unit on our DC Vans. In our case, we bought two new Caravans, one in 1998 and the other in 2003, and in both cases we were offered the option of buying a 7/70 warranty extension, and in both cases we declined the opportunity. So far, in almost 140,000 miles of combined driving, our total out of pocket for all unscheduled repairs has been a whopping $158 (two new Die-Hard batteries and a door switch).
I'm thinking that you were most likely offered the option of extending your warranty as well. In the end, it all comes down to, "You spends yer money, you takes yer chance." We took ours, and so far at least we've come out ahead, you took your chance and you didn't. How is that Chryslers fault?
Best Regards,
Shipo
I think what burns me is that lots of friends said don't buy the van because of past Tranny problems they have had with the model... but I decided to ignore them..and got burnt in the end.....
And to say they Offered me an addon warranty and I should have bit..was like saying I should have paid another 5K and bought a Toyota. They coulda charged 15K for the van and another 5K for the 10/100.. How about that..? I just see the product life cycle becoming less and less when the prices keep going up..
Thank goodness for my 1992 Ford 150 ..
The fact is that in this day and age, a decent automatic transmission should last for at least 100K miles. In reality, the vast majority of our minivan transmissions do, a few however don't. Is the difference environmental? Is it the driver, the maintenance (or lack thereof), incorrect transmission fluid, or simply the day of the week that the transmission was assembled? If all DC 4-Speed transaxles installed in V6 minivans failed before 70K miles, then I'd be quite receptive to your arguments, however, that just isn't the case. In fact, I read somewhere not too long ago that the number of DC transmission failures is actually a little better than the industry average. The reason that we hear so much about them is that there are just so damned many on the road.
In the end, I suspect that you will find a sympathetic ear here and there, but none of that sympathy will get your transmission fixed.
Best Regards,
Shipo
But, some people actually make informative posts of their experiences without necessarily wanting or even asking for sympathy.
Anyone know when Chrysler went to the 7yr/70,000 mile powertrain warranty with the $100 per visit deductible. Thanks.