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Comments
Of course, a dirty valve body means dirty fluid. It's probably time for a complete evacuation and refill with fresh ATF+4.
Good luck,
Dusty
P.S. Oh, yes. Many independent transmission shops will tell you they use Dexron with a additive that makes it ATF+3 or 4. Unfortunately, that's chemically impossible. Their additive is only a friction modifier. ATF+ is more than. For example, it contains a formulation that brings the pour point down to -55 degrees. No additive package can make ATF+ out of Dexron. Chrysler strongly warns against the use of Dexron with any additive.
I mean I like the car and the way it rides. The car is an good shape and the engine is strong, Shame to junk her for some crap tranny. I was going to buy a newer 2002 model, but after reading the .net im re-thinking my idea.
Thanks
City driving can be harder on the clutches and correspondingly harder on the transmission fluid. A lot depends on your driving style. The more that the clutches slip, the more material is lost from the clutch faces. This deposits clutch material into the fluid. City driving can easily overheat ATF. As the fluid heats up oxidation of the fluid occurs. The more rapidly it oxidizes the dirtier it gets.
If the shop you had do the fluid change used Dexron with an additive, it will change color rapidly in a Chrysler transmission. You should be advised, however, that color by itself cannot be used as a determinate factor is judging how clean the ATF is. ATF+3 and 4 have a color dye added to make it red. As the dye dissipates the ATF will return to it's base color, which is a very dark, dark red.
>>> I had the fluid changed less the 5K ago. We only use the car to drive around town. Why would the oil be dirty in such a short period? what cause this?<<<
A correctly design transmission nowadays should and will go more than 80K. The Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association says that a properly maintained transmission used in normal service should go 100,000 miles before overhaul. In fact the large majority do go that and even more. Most Chrysler that I see have gone beyond that with little or no routine maintenance. I can think of several dozen in the last year that have gone over 150,000 miles without an overhaul.
What part of the country are you in? In the case of your '96 there were some internal lubrication issues that were addressed in '98. These issues are easily resolvable. A knowledgeable and reputable transmission rebuilder will retrofit an earlier version at the time of overhaul.
Best regards,
Dusty
Did the transmission shifting problems begin AFTER the "engine" lamp illuminated?
Or did this happen the other way around?
Regards,
Dusty
Hmmm, that's odd, the transmission on our 1998 GC with the 3.8 will drop itself into top gear (what I assume you are calling "Overdrive") somewhere in the twenty mile per hour range when tooling around town. Is the transmission used with the 3.0 liter Mitsubishi motor that different?
Best Regards,
Shipo
Next day, I bought the minivan to a local transamission specialist and explained the problem. They supposedly did a computer scan which took less than 10 minutes and indicated that it was the OD cludge plate that is worn out. They will need to open up the transmission to fix it.
Hope the sequence of events help to clarify the problem. Thanks to everyone that can offer some advise.
Thanks
Best regards,
Dusty
Greg
Looking at this another way, we have two GCs, one with 89K and one with 45K, neither have ever had a flush, and both are spotless inside. The only difference between the way our vans have been maintained is that while we have both adhered to the maintained schedule, I've done all but the 30K and 60K services on our vans myself. That, and I've always used Mobil 1 Synthetic oil since the first oil change.
Best Regards,
Shipo
This experience thought me that one should always go for second opinion when having trnsamission/engine problems. Sometime it is just the sensor. Chrysler's design on slowing down the vehicle when "engine" lamp is illuminated allows a lot of owners to be cheated by repair shops - ultimately ruining Chrysler's reputation.
This is just a dealer money making scam. If your van is starting fine, running good, no performance or mileage decrease, then you do not need this item.
We own a 1996 Caravan with about 84K miles, never having had an engine flush or any other engine tuneup for that matter. Still on the original good for 100K spark plugs as well and it starts and runs like new and just passed its semiannual emissions check with flying colors.
Install the solenoid pack and noise shield. (Hint: DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BOLTS!) Install the hoses and speed sensor. Install air filter resonator.
Step back, have a cold one, and plan on how to spend the $300 you just saved.
I have a Town and Country 1997. Last week driving to work the van went into the left lane and I almost lost control of it. Once I got back onto the road I felt something had gone wrong with the van. There was nothing anywhere that could have caused this to happen. I went a couple of yards down the road to work fighting the van all the way. Once I got to work I noticed that the van was loosing fluid. Towed it away and found out later that I needed a new transmission. Now I want to know if anyone knows of someone that has had this same problem. If I would have had any accident I don't think that they would have said "Oh it must have been the transmission".
How could a bad transmission cause your van to change lanes?
Does anyone have any suggestions on when I should convert to synthetic tranny
fluid? And does Amsoil work as well as Chrysler's synthetic ATF 3/4??
Thanks.
Spacecadet1
Best Regards,
Shipo
However, the auxiliary transmission cooler lines were not. Parts, labor and tax totaled $485.
I can't get anywhere with the dealer, and I am drafting a letter to Chrysler's President. Has anyone had or heard of similar situations?
Any suggestions where I can go to find more ammunition?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Jeff in Atlanta
I have a 2003 Chrysler Town & Country with 31,000 miles and 22 months in service. At first the dealer tried to tell me that failure to shift into reverse and rough shifting during acceleration was normal for Chrysler T&C. Two tranmission rebuilds later, one at 7500 miles and the other at 31,000 miles, and I am still have no confidence that there won't be more rebuilds in the future. This transmission continues to tear itself up. No rough driving, no towing, just my wife driving in town mostly. Chrysler's response is that I don't need to worry the warranty is for 7 years/70K, but I didn't pay $38,000 to have a vehicle that needs a transmission rebuilt every year. I am initiating a claim against Chrysler through an attorney. You may want to consider getting your vehicle into the repair shop until they find the problem. You need to pursue the repair before you can have a case. I suspect Chrysler still has a design problem with these tranmissions.
My recommendation is to find another dealer. I think you have a dealer problem.
Regards,
Dusty
The breakdown of the cost was $328 labor, and $140 in parts. Are you serious that this is a one hour job?
I questioned that myself, and they said that they have to take off the bumper and all kinds of other crap in order to get to the lines.
Aside from calling the dealer to get a 'quote,' is there any public documentation available to show the 'normal' costs associated with this type of repair?
Thanks.
I called 3 different dealers, including the one that did the repair. The quotes were from $160-$234 plus tax.
Right now I am drafting a letter to the dealership president, and sending a copy to my State Attorney General's office.
I am asking for full restitution. Let's see what they will do.
Stay tuned...
Thanks
Regards,
Dusty
Dusty: they said they were leaking.
Thanks to all for their information and support.
I've seen transmission cooling lines on fouteen year-old Caravans and Voyagers that were still solid.
Regards,
Dusty