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Comments
Whether its worth investing $2500 in to it is dependent on the overall condition and miles. Does it need any other type of mechanical work? Does the total exceed the value of the vehicle?
As it stands now no vehicle is worth much with a bad transmission. A $4000 high mileage mini-van with a bad transmission is worth about $500. It may pay to get it fixed.
On the other hand it might be worth a second opinion, too. You didn't state the failure symptoms, but a lot of Chrysler transmission problems are not complete failures. A dirty valve body or bad shift solenoids can be fixed for a lot less that $2500. I might recommend another Chrysler or Dodge dealer, however.
Good luck,
Dusty
& Country went haywire. Whenever you put a load on the electrical
system (power windows, interior lights, apply the brakes (brake lights
I guess), head lights, etc) the instrument cluster flashes off and then
goes through its power up test and then displays normal. It can get to
where it does this several times a second to the point that you have a
blank display with flashes of lights only in certain segments. If you have the ignition off and open the drivers door the panel powers up and displays the main
information along with the mileage. Once you start the engine it just
goes flashing like a discotec.
Any clues as to the cause of this? I have heard that these digital displays goe bad, but wouldn't that just be the printed circuit board each of the gauges is plugged into? Or is there a controller (BCM) that is responsible for driving the display?
Thanks,
Lon Allen
Have the battery checked out. Even though it still may be starting the car OK, these minivans seem to be very sensitive to low voltage which drives the displays crazy.
Could also be a bad voltage regulator or altenator, I suppose. Many auto parts stores will do a free diagnostic of your battery and charging system. I would try that first.
I just purchased a 1994 Dodge Caravan SE with 140k. I've looked through 15+ pages and dont see a problem similar to mine.
Let it be said that I purchased the vehicle with knowledge of this existing issue, so it's no shock. For $750, it's got a strong motor, good interior, and all accessories work. So I guess I did okay.
The meat of my trans problem is as follows: when going steady between 30-40 MPH, the transmission will rapidly slip in/out of overdrive. It feels and sounds almost identical to going over a double set of train tracks.
Accelerating, decelerating, or hitting the OD switch all make it stop immediately.
My thoughts are solenoids or (hopefully not) the OD clutch.
Transmission fluid is clear, clean and smells like a spring garden. (okay not really a spring garden unless you were growning ATF flowers).
Anyhow, Outside of that I'm pretty happy with it. I admit I'm rather surprised to read that 100+k is outside the average life expectancy of a DC transmission. I suppose I'm spoiled by German engineering.
Another sometimes problem on your year's mini-van is the Central Timer Module (CTM) going bad.
Best regards,
Dusty
Check the underside of the hood for the presence of a decal indicating a Transmission Control Module (TCM) flash. For the years '93-'95, there should be at least two if the previous owners had this vehicle serviced for torque converter shudder. Chrysler issued several flash updates for these years all related to shift anomalies and torque converter engagement problems.
If your vehicle was flashed and this vehicle has been driven for some time with this condition, there unfortunately is a good chance that the torque converter clutch is badly worn. There are other things that should be considered, however. Despite the apparent condition, the ATF could be degraded (oxidized) or contaminated with a quantity of Dexron-Mercon. Dexron-Mercon in a Chrysler transmission will cause the same symptom. If you haven't done this, I would recommend a transmission filter change and a fluid flush. The anti-drain back valve should be removed and flushed, or replaced at the same time. In addition, the battery should be disconnected for at least two minutes and reconnected. This will force the TCM through a retrain with the new fluid.
Most of the time this symptom is caused by an intermittent EMCC TCC signal that causes partial engagement of the solenoid. The torque converter solenoid could be weak or there could be a bad (intermittent) electrical connection at the solenoid. This is very, very common. The governor piston could be worn (they mushroom at the end from actuation) or the under drive clutch could be bad. The TCM could be bad, also.
Strange at it may seem, ignition components can cause this very same symptom, either spark plug wires or distributor cap and rotor, and worn spark plugs.
Best regards,
Dusty
Lon Allen
At the same time, it shimmes unless I add throttle at which time it smooths out.
During the shimmy, I tried a quick stop & it shimmies from side to side like having a "bent wheel" effect untill a full stop.
If I stop & go in reverse for a quick moment & resume on my way, the problem is cleared & gone for street driving until of course, I drive at freeway speeds again.
So far Ive suspected the Trans, the steering or maybe the right axle which, has a broken boot at the wheel side.....btw, its a 1990 Voyager LE with LOTS of miles...it does need front end bushings as per a visit to the alingnment shop...
Thanx in advance for any clues you may have..
Dave.
pls let me know if u make any progress .
thanks !
Thanks in advance.
Rakesh
Thanks :confuse:
Intermittently, the transmission does not downshift to first gear when coming to a stop, but downshifts only to second. On moving from the stop, it will sometimes rapidly downshift to first with a bit of a jerk. (Failing to downshift all the way was a problem for a few days before the rebuild. The transmission died very suddenly.) Is this a problem that can be expected to work itself out, does it indicate a problem with the rebuild, or is it related to some part that would not ordinarily be replaced in a rebuild?
There is a lot of talk about the evils of Mercon/Dexron in a Chrysler transmission on this board. Owner's manual says Dexron III can be used if ATF+3 is not available. I did not ask the rebuilder why Mercon III was used. Does this cause a problem?
Thanks in advance for whatever suggestions you have.
It seems that everybody you've mentioned seems to think the same thing, so there's something going on. If that's truly the cause, my first suspicion is that you're not getting torque converter lock up in fourth gear, but it would be nice to know if the Transmission Control Module is laying down a code.
Regards,
Dusty
dealership tomorrow to get a new filter. How does it remove? I cannot find any
screws or fasteners on it, and it is "loose" or wobbles if pulled down some. I have
never changed one myself, but want to this time as I had to remove the trans.
cover to repair or replace it due to a small hole in it from dragging on our gravel
road. I thought I would change it while I was there. It is a 3.0L engine with the overdrive transmission. I am afraid to tear it up, so please help me- where are the screws?
1996 Dodge GC, 120K. recently the running lights stay on after shutting down the vehicle. Battery disconnect has been only successful way to get them off. Looked at wiring and made sure the relay was OK. Replaced the headlight switch to no benefit. Non-dealer mechanic told me it was the BCM. I've read with trepidation about putting a "used" BCM into my van.
The idea of spending $800 on a new computer that may, or may not, solve the problem is distastefull at best.
Your experiences much appreciated.
Troy
Thanks
AKAM
What are likely causes of this, and estimated $$ to fix??
I would go to either a locally owned independent transmission shop which has been in business a long time, or secondly a dealer shop.
Don't assume right away that the first shop that tells you your transmission is shot is telling the truth, sometimes it is just solenoid problems that don't warrant a complete transmission change. If in doubt, get a second or third opinion, this could cost you a bit, but save you a bundle if it allows you to not have to replace the tranny.
ATF 3 should be OK with your 1996.
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:confuse:
Best regards,
Dusty
Current symptoms: I have occasional minor lags in shifting when going from deceleration to acceleration (e.g. slowing for a red light that then turns green). The light only comes on after driving on the interstate for about 15 or 20 minutes. It will go out after a couple of days of city driving.
What other symptoms can I expect before failure and what can I expect after a solenoid fails? Should I use the van for my trip. The alternative is renting or flying, which I'd rather not do.
What would accomplish the same thing by adding volume and be more beneficial to long term transmission reliability is to install an auxilary transmission cooler. If you lower the fluid temperature 20 degrees you reduce the ATF oxidation rate by about 45%.
Bests,
Dusty
could anyone help - having had my 98 grand voyager 3.3lx for nearly two years i'm experiencing problems - the gears seem to change for no reason rather than the previous comfortable exchange - they change down for no reason and it seems she cant decide what gear to be in - at low speeds she keeps going up and down the gears for no reason - furthermore when getting upto to higher speeds she wont go into top gear and high revs in the lower gears - can anyone offer any advice / tips prior to me getting an expensive garage bill,
thanks in anticipation of any responses
I got 132,000 miles out of it before the transmission had any problems.
Since the fuel pump was damaged when recently replaced, it is squirting gas on the engine, so unsafe to drive. I am hoping to get $1500 for it, which will make me happy and probably be a good deal for a mechanic who can do the repairs themself.
Best Regards,
Shipo