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Chrysler 300M

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Comments

  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    I have the Alpine DVD navigation system. About every Febuary they update the DVD's too bad you couldn't wait. I have the DVD unit in the trunk just to the left of the stock trunk light. The antenna is mounted on the plastic grill by the wiper arms. and the monitors show the display. I use it for almost everything from yard (great for getting back to the main streets) selling to cross country (helps you know the city better then the locals) vacations. If you can change out the speakers you can do this.
    The chrysler unit is made by Visteon. It is called NavMate Navigation System. It is not a bad system but not nearly as good as the Alpine or most of the indash systems out there. Plus there are 3CD's for different parts of the country. Which can be OK if you drive in a single CD part of the country. But since a DVD can hold so much more and you put it in and forget about it. The cost differance is going to be about 600+ depending on the monitor you choose with the Alpine system. There are a few others good ones out there too. The Alpine DVD's run about $300 and I may replace mine(3years old) when the new ones come out in Febuary since they have added some major citys in the areas I like to to like Flagstaff and Tucson to name a few. Plus Phoenix has grown so much in the past 3 years.
  • ajpiiiajpiii Member Posts: 260
    Ive got my heart set on the Alpine system, just because everything is on a single Dvd :) Plus everything else in the car is alpine so I might as well stick with it... That way the CVA-1006 can control the Nav system

    Do you have any pics of the install 300Michael ? or the Antenna ?
  • topcuttopcut Member Posts: 54
    All the GM cars I have owned were of the so called better variety....Olds 88....Buick Electra 225...A seville....all junk,,,olds burnt butterfly valve in the tranny at 3k miles....burnt valves in the Buick at 10K miles...I won't even look at GM again...
    I traded a Acura CL Coupe type S for the 300M...Nice car...But the fit and finish not any better than the 300....
  • topcuttopcut Member Posts: 54
    Sorry to burst your bubble,,,,,but Chrysler sales were up by 12% for the 3rd quarter of this year,,GM sales were down and are closing plants....Better check your figures..:)...The Avalanche...? They cannot even get the window tint consistent..:)..Guess we have lemons in all of them....But I will stick with Chrysler for the moment....:)
  • topcuttopcut Member Posts: 54
    I would buy another ACURA.....not a minutes trouble with it ....Did have a little clanked in the trunk when I closed the door.....but that was it,,,the car was very strong,,260 horses......run to Mississippi at 70 MPH and got around 30 miles per gallon...I did think the looks were a little bland tho...
  • bluesky999bluesky999 Member Posts: 253
    I guess I check into this board about every couple of months or so, so I'm due... This board is great, reading people tell their tales of 'M ownership, and everyone keeps it pretty light. I have to find time to read it more often.

    Topcut, regarding the Aztek/Avalanch/Rendezvous, I think you're generalizing a bit much. The Rendezvous is a quite attractive vehicle to my eyes--my neighbor just got one. The Aztek was terrible looking it's true, but GM changed it and it may be better now. The Avalanch is also different from the Aztek, at least to my eyes.

    OK, as for my '99 'M, I bought it used at 49K miles in November of '01. Now have 66K and very happy w/it, although the "light show" has developed which I plan to have checked out. I'm pretty sure it's covered under the DC extended warranty I have. This is the first time I've ever bought a used car, and it was a good experience. Ride and handling still tight as a drum.

    The only other problem I've had since I bought it was the A/C didn't work when the whether turned warm, but 5* fixed it under xtnd warranty ($50 deductible) and it's been fine since. You might find this funny-- one other thing that wasn't a problem: the previous owner had brought it into the dealer complaining of a "noise in the back" when going around corners (I found the paperwork under the seat). By accident I found a pocketknife that was between the trunk and the seat, and if you took a turn very fast the knife would "wham" against the side and make a noise. So by finding that knife, which was actually a beautiful "Tiffany" knife with about 30 or more attachments, the occasional problem noise was solved and I got a new knife to keep in the glove compartment!

    If anyone is still reading, does anyone know how long the battery on the 99s is rated for? Kind of hard to see it down there, but I'm guessing it's rated 48 months or so. I shelled out a Franklin and change for the Chrysler manual, and I don't remember seeing any requirement for a battery change in first 100,000 of scheduled maintenance, so I'm wondering if it might be longer than 48 months. Anything else I should consider changing as it approaches 70K? Have already done tranny fluid and will do the belts shortly. I rotate the tires every 15K, 7 1/2 K the first time. Thx in advance for any input.
  • 99_300m_ric_va99_300m_ric_va Member Posts: 377
    I believe someone at the Chrysler assembly plant told us it was a 3 year battery. If you have a 99, you should replace it. It takes about 1 hour or less and you don't want to do it on the side of a road.
  • topcuttopcut Member Posts: 54
    I guess we all have a different perspective on Beauty....They still be ugly to me:),,,,,I think GM has lost their design skills...Like the Monte Carlo.?? What were they thinking...???...That big butted monster gives me eye sores :):)..
    However, I am glad you are basically happy with your M......
  • topcuttopcut Member Posts: 54
    You say Chrysler is being more and more German...probably got some exchange going on there...You would hope they would benefit each other,,,that is why companies merge....
    Surely you are not so naive to think GM is still American made.....:).....The GEO and Trackers and one point I believer were Korean...and if memory serves me right The Malibu was a joint venture between GM and Toyota.....All the so called BIG 3..have production plants out of the USA..and most of the electronics that go into them are from the pacific rim countries...Like they say,,It is a Global economy.....P.S. Ford owns about 40% of Toyo Kogo (sp) the japanese company that builds Mazda
  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    Lots of brake dust indicates softer brake pads than usual; such pads are usually installed to reduce brake squeal. Take a look at any Mercedes which particularly have this problem. We'll all probably be seeing more of this as Chrysler becomes more Benz-content oriented.

    Since yours is a 2002 Special with new linings, best quick solution is to install some brake shields (liners) on the front wheels only. They basicly are teflon-coated aluminum discs mounted between the calipers and the wheels. If you do use them, be sure to follow the installation instructions carefully. (Don't put them on backwards). :^))

    They work fine but some dealers like to say that they will cause the brakes to overheat by reducing the airflow. I haven't found that to be the case when I have used shields in the past.

    Available at most any good auto parts store; about 40 bucks a pair. Don't bother with the rear since those pads wear considerably less than the front, even for those cars with rear drive.
  • topcuttopcut Member Posts: 54
    They also make dustless pads......
  • topcuttopcut Member Posts: 54
    My M is a 2002....and never get brake dust...wonder what the difference is ????/
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    I think I read somewhere that The Avalanche truck was referred to as the "Tupperware" truck because of the high plastic content.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    The Geo Tracker and Metro were Suzuki's. The Geo Prism was a Toyota. The Geo Storm was an Isuzu.


    The Buick Rendezvous is easily one of the best built, most comfortable and reliable cars I have ever owned. I've got 25K miles on mine and love it. Oh yeah, Buick dealers blow away the competition when it comes to courteous and competent service, both in the showroom and at the service department.


    I'm still loving "my" '02 Concorde Limited. The stereo sounds much better now that the speakers are broken in. I will continue to tolerate a couple of interior rattles and worn weather stripping (already?!) until my 6000 mile oil change. I ground one of the wheels against a curb last month and the "chrome" held up just fine.

  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Just for the record, from Edmunds own data: Avalanche= 0-60 8.9 sec, 1/4 mile @ 16.7 83.8MPH,
    13 city 17 highway mpg, 5678 Lbs curb weight.
    300M = 0-60 7.9 sec, 1/4 mile @ 15.8 88.1MPH, 18 city 27 highway mpg, 3567 Lbs curb weight. Lets see, slower, uses more fuel,(to haul around 2111 more pounds)but quieter? Which one would you rather use to carry 4-5 passengers? Does the Sierra Club know about your Mom?
  • kosh_2258kosh_2258 Member Posts: 338
    The most recent fuel economy ratings put the Chevy Silverado and Avalanche in the top 10 lowest mileage vehicles on the road. In fact, if I recall they were like in positions 3 and 5 with the Lambo Murcielago (sp) as the lowest at 10mpg. the GM's were like 11 or 12. The Dodge RAM P/U wasn't on that list. GM = Generic Motors. Or if you look at the demographics GM = Geriatic Motors.
  • silverbullet4silverbullet4 Member Posts: 449
    My 5* (Dodge dealer now) took longer than estimated, but I got my car back about 3 pm. The starter motor was replaced. I appreciated them getting my car done quickly so I could complete my Christmas errands. I left my Service Advisor a nice bottle of French merlot as a reward. The tow truck and repair were covered under warranty.

    Happy holiday to all!

    Silver
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    I have pictures of all three Alpine changes. At the webshots and Fotki websites, Fotki is under construction but is usually better. Soon I hope to have the forth generation pictues, with my new ductwork comes in. I will be (trying) to place the alpine monitor where the clock is now located. The clock will move to the bottom cubby hole and be surrounded by guages. I got a 99 LHS clock/vent bezel ( the one with the wings in the camel color to match the dash. I will use it if the monitor will not fit as prevously stated.
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    I'll say no more, and hope this is all done. You like your M's. We hated ours and our glad to be rid of it, and the Avalanche (or big tupperware box...) is amazing. Done. End of story.


    Hey, on another thought, what made you trade the CL-S for the 300M? Notice any big differences like power or noise? What options and colors did you get with the M?

  • topcuttopcut Member Posts: 54
    Nothing really made me trade the CL for M....I trade pretty often....fortunatly I am now in a financial position to trade when I want....(took many years):)....To back track a bit,,,in 97 I had too Pontiac Firebirds.....Traded the last Firebird( which is the car that really turned me off of GM) for a Toyota Solara, which was a nice car,,,Got the urge and at 14K traded for the CL-S...and at about the same mileage traded for the M...I never had a bit of trouble with either the CL or the Solara....I felt like the CL was rather small and the looks never really turned me on..The CL was fast and smooth,,the tranny was like silk,rode about the same as the M,,firm but not bone jarring....about the same noise level on both cars.actually the CL had a little bit more wind noise than the M...Rode noise is about the same on both and both are good long distance cars...Fuel mileage was better on the CL,,but you had to burn Premium fuel..The M takes regular ,,as you know...
    The Solara rode better than both of them...had a softer ride, but also more body role on cornering..and not that I corner hard...I prefer the M and CL ride,,,has the best of both worlds..
    My M is Steal Blue with Taupe interior..(looks gray to me)..has power sunroof, 6 disk changer, heated seats..Homelink and the sensor stuff..I think it has about every available option they offered...
    I am sorry you had so much trouble with your M..Maybe I just bought mine at a time when they were finally getting their act together..But I can honestly say it has so far performed flawlessly for me..The body is nice and snug(rattle and squeak free)..and the fit and finish is as good as the CL
    I am now getting the itch for a car with a Nav system in it, but Chryslers except for the new Pacifica, as I understand it will not be available till the 05 model change...Not sure I can wait that long.....The new Infiniti G-35 Coupe looks pretty nice...Merry Christmas!!!!!!!!
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    You buy a new car every year or so?


    If you can afford to piss away thousands of dollars each year in depreciation and sales tax, why don't you step out of the $30K crowd and buy some real iron like the BMW 745i, Lexus LS430, or Mercedes E500?

  • david70david70 Member Posts: 5
    I'm picking up my new 2003 Special tomorrow morning. Any advice on break - in period. My dealer says, "don't worry about it." I have traded in my 2000 PHP and that manual says go easy for the first 60 miles and suggests one can go up to 50 - 55 mph after that up to the 300 miles. I have a 1,200 mile trip on Friday and trying to decide how to handle this. I really don't have an option but to take it. Advice?
  • teddtedd Member Posts: 19
    Thanks guys for your input on the brake dust problem. Will look into brake shields and dustless pads for the front wheels. My back wheels look just fine.
  • lonestarsledlonestarsled Member Posts: 226
    Whats up with the weatherstrip on your car? I know some people have complained of "shrinking" weatherstrip, is that what you are talking about? I have had no issues with my 2000 LHS, only been back to dealer to get my license tags a week after purchase.
  • teddtedd Member Posts: 19
    I had about 400 miles on my new 2002 M-Special when I got a speeding ticket for going 85 in a 70 mph zone. Don't sweat the break-in time. I don't think it makes a difference today as it did on cars pass. (I may be wrong. Maybe I got a ticket for being wrong!!)
  • topcuttopcut Member Posts: 54
    Ever watch Motorweek on PBS on Sundays,,,,A fellow by the name of Goss who is supposed to be a crack mechanic says to vary your speeds for the first thousand miles regarless of what your dealer tells you......Your rings will seat better,,,the last thing you need is an oil burner......Vary the SPeed..makes sense to me
  • easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    yep--vary the speed--and I would say up to 65 mph during the first couple hundred would be ok---but I also heard varying the speed will seat the rings properly

    brake shields to cut down on brake dust? I have read that those shields can lead to overheating rotors which could lead to warping---a little dust is better than warped rotors..get yourself some carbon metallic pads ---autozone sells a good quality pad called Performance Friction---only $35 per set---low dust, low noise , and good performance.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    The front of the door (the pointy part above the mirror where it meets the A pillar) is rubbing on the weatherstripping, and this abrasion has created a 2" tear. Not a big deal, but it needs to be fixed.


    I have also noticed that several body panels have uneven gaps, not only in width, but in height as well (as in: if your clothes drape over the sheetmetal, edges could snag you like a fish hook).

  • bluesky999bluesky999 Member Posts: 253
    david, if i were you i would check w/your dealer to see what they recommend for the break-in. i'd also check the owner's manual to see if that has anything on it, and a call to the dc regional office would be worthwhile too, IMO. these guys are probably correct about varying speeds, but it may be you should also keeep it below 55 or 65...

    some people also like to change the oil more frequently during the first few hundred miles of ownership. the theory is that when the engine is new, more metal particles wear off of the many parts rubbing together, so by changing the oil more often when the car is new you get rid of those harmful particles.
  • drpixeldrpixel Member Posts: 256
    to donna1119: regarding light show: eMily is a 2000 bright Silver Metallic who has had recurring problems with the 'light show (with same described effects of flashing interior and exterior lights)'. Had one BCM (body control module) replaced. Wife drove car home from -5 star dealer to have:
    1. Gas gauge read empty
    seats move all the wayt UP to steering wheel
    milage read 97,000
    flashing lights
    door locks going up AND down, etc...

    Back to dealer who replaced BCM a second time with BRAND NEW bcm (as opposed to factory re-conditoned?...). Problem seemed to go away, but came back. Next fix was multifunction light switch (auto-on/off, etc..) . THAT seemed to fix it, but noo-o-o-o-o-o-o-0...it reappeared AGAIN. At night, headlights--without key in ignition and doors locked--would flash ON THEIR OWN..(haunted house sounds heard here..)

    Took eMily now to DODGE dealer who is bending over backwards to find AND FIX problem. Part rdered for inside dash (another part of the light switch they tell me..). Awaiting delivery of part and installation. Wire2 on this board spoke with some 'people' he works with and a flakey CdS (some kind of sensor on dashboard that senses ambient light can/MAY cause this problem if it sends a WRONG signal to the BCM....whew....good luck and lemme know how YOUR 2000 fare's with this problem. Seems to be a prblem with 01's also....

    TO other things....just wanted to stop in to wish all my friends and fellow M'ers here on the edmunds board--and PAT too--a very Merry Christmas. To those of us who celebrate Channukah or Ramadon or another holiday, I wish to you all the PEace and Joy that these holidays bring to us. You know, it never mattered to mewhat color a person's skin is, for if we get cut we all bleed. The important thing herethat I always do is to remember what the real reason for the Christmas holiday. To ALL my old friends here, and the new ones I've yet to make a very Happy Holiday season from the Doc.

    Still searching for a job, but I remember that I was downsized, but not down and out. I know next year is going to be better and that I will once again be amongst the employed--and more importantly doing what I love to do....

    Take care my friends, and may the peace and joy of the holiday season be with you and your families,
    Doc/Glenn/drpixel and family
  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    topcut5-
    "My M is a 2002...never get brake dust...wonder what the difference is???/"

    Perhaps your M is a standard, not a Special. The latter have different brakes due to their higher speed capabilities, etc.

    easyrider300m-
    Brake Shields do work fine. They are slotted forward to pull air in from the side of the wheels while keeping dust out. I had two Benz's -- an '83 300SD and an '88 560SEL. Before Shields, both blackened the front wheels and squealed excessively. After Shields, each were driven for well over 125K with no problems regarding heat damage to anything. That brake dust is greasy and cannot just be hosed off; it's a major undertaking to remove it. And it corrodes the wheels.

    Also, I thought that since tedd just bought a new car, he wasn't interested yet in removing and experimenting with the pads. I agree that a longer range fix is to get better pads, but that should be a manufacturer problem which CD probably will not fix since the German mind-set is different regarding autos and, particularly, squealing brakes. Just look at any Benz front wheels. And they still squeal.

    Benz, now in control at DC, has had a history of retreating from brake squeal problems by going to softer pads; i.e., more brake dust. We'll all be seeing more German influences into these new LX cars now that they've been able to get their fingers into the pie more. Not sure that the future looks that good. With my two Benz's, it cost about $300 for front pads and $800 for both front rotors and pads. That's one of the reasons I no longer drive Benz's any longer.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Merry Christmas and happy holidays to all!!

    (Thanks doc -- hang in there. 2002 hasn't been that great of a year for me either, and I'm ready to try on a new one!!)
  • 300m_vt300m_vt Member Posts: 32
    and to ALL a good night.......
  • easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    I had a local brake shop install new rotors all around and carbon metallic pads on the fronts and semi-metallic on the rears--I supplied the parts --total cost was $310 including parts and labor. And no squeals, little brake dust and great stopping performance. Such a deal!
  • psterpster Member Posts: 293
    I just put the Dunlop Sport A2's on my 1999 300M after 50,000 perfectly wonderful miles in the OEM 16 inch Michelin's. I am in Altlanta having just driven here from St. Louis in the rain. The A2's have much better wet capabilities than the Michelins, but have a harsger ride in my opinion. The Michelin XGT's were the best tire for this car but they are pricey and have to be special ordered. Beware the Dunlops - the dealers are gouging the prices up as the tire was highly rated by Consumers Report.
  • laurasdadalaurasdada Member Posts: 4,686
    Greetings: I just wanted to wish Happy Holidays to everyone here. I hope that if all is well with you and yours that that state continues indefinitely! For those in need, I hope that 2003 brings you what you need. And more, for all of us decent folks.

    Fastdriver: Hit you know where on Monday. The place was empty! I found a minimum stakes, no smoking table and doubled my meager allotment in about 45 minutes. And walked away! I must be maturing...

    '99 Platinum M continues to be okey-dokey. I've experienced the "light show" a couple of times and fiddling with the lighting rheostat solved it. To this point, at least.

    Happy Holidays and here's to a significantly safer, more peaceful, more prosperous and fulfilling 2003.

    '21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)

  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    drpixel-

    Happy holidays to you too. Hope the new year brings better and bigger things for you and yours.

    Sorry to hear about the ghostly happenings with eMily! Sounds like Christine resurrected! ;-))

    laurasdada-

    I hear you. Almost stopped today on the way home from RI, but the lousy weather made me think twice. Might take a quick run before the new year. Stay safe.

    To all-

    Wishing everyone a happy, safe and healthy holiday no matter what religion you are. Let's hope that 2003 puts a bigger dent in terrorism and an end to hate.

    fastdriver
  • beespecialbeespecial Member Posts: 69
    Drove my 1 month old '03 Special in some significant snow yesterday here in Indy. These 18" Michelin Pilots just can't do snow! Period!I would have had more grip with baloney skins. Been searching the tire maker websites for alternatives for the winter and I can't find any winter or all-season tires to fit these rims. I know I can't be the first one to have this problem. Will I have to buy different rims also just for the winter? Any suggestions from anyone? PLEASE?
  • wire2wire2 Member Posts: 188
    Try www.tirerack.com , their ad in Road & Track (January 2003)lists Michelin Pilot Alpin in 245/45 VR-18 for $179 ea.
  • rstilprstilp Member Posts: 105
    Doc; Good to hear from you. Read an article about job hunting that states " good time is right after new years due to mgmt. not firing people during the holidays". SO, hit it hard after the 1st. Good luck!!

    beespecial; TireRack is the answer as stated previously. We just got 10" of snow in South Bend and my Yokohama YK420s don't do too well either. Although they are better than the Goodyears that were on originally. I think I need to experiment with tire pressures.
    Rick/Geezer300M
  • beespecialbeespecial Member Posts: 69
    Thanks. Went there and got 'em ordered. Now I'll be waiting for snow just to try 'em out.
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    Bspecial: I don't have 18's but in 4 years, 100K miles, I've never had any problem getting around in snow with the 17" OEM GY LS's. You really don't need to go to the trouble and expense of winter tires and a second set of wheels unless you want max performance all the time and have money to burn (or are totally freaked by snow). I also obviously live in Indy and got around just fine in seven inches of fresh snow on my nearly worn out Goodyears.

    Pcoleman: same deal. You got 55,000 miles out of the OEM Goodyears....sounds like a good value to me. But, I admit, my priorities are value, not necessarily max performance (although I seem to be able to outdrive 99.99% of the drivers I run across on a daily basis).

    There has been a lot of hysteria about how bad Goodyear tires have been on this car but, to counterbalance that, I've had two sets, 53,000 on the first, 46,000+ on the second and have had absolutely no problems, obviously great mileage and value along with good winter traction. I understand many posters here have different priorities than I but, this has been a great tire judging by my experience.
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    I too have a '99 with the OEM battery. I can not afford to be stranded by this car, so I am very big on getting all the schedule maintenance done, by the book. I just had a major mainetenance cycle done by my dealer and expressed my concerns about the battery. I basically opened the door for him to go ahead and replace it to the tune of approx. $100 P&L. But, he did an electrical check on it, reported back the exact voltage and cold cranking amps it was putting out and stated that, "he could pull a new one off the shelf with less power" and advised keeping it. So, I guess if you get a good one, run with it.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    That is what I was talking about on the club site. It is not even on on the N and the stuff is already comming out. For those getting an N it will be nice to have a viriaty of options out there as soon as you get your N.
  • easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    I have new Yoko 420s on my M. We got 8 inches of wet slushy snow this xmas. I didnt even shovel the driveway and I got out easily even over the plowed in snow at the street end of the driveway. On the road, I never got close to getting stuck but you do have to watch how you drive--no fast accelerating and no quick turns. I believe this is the same with even snow tires. We're used to driving in snow in MA and you just have to adjust for the conditions. I have never had snow tires on any car and never had a problem. The roads are usually plowed during and after a storm and they salt and sand the roads soon after. If you must drive during a snowstorm you just learn to take it a little easier. Those people that got killed in the midwest during the snowstorms probably were driving too fast for the conditions.

    The Yokos in my opinion are better than the Goodyears. They have a 60k mile warranty and sell at some of the direct tire stores for as little as $112 including balance and mounting. You may be able to have them shipped to you if you dont have a store close by. Just go to www.discounttire.com and search for a store near you. Some stores sell them for as much as $140. But I did see the $112 price on the site at one of the stores. I only paid $85 plus shipping about 3 months ago as they had a special sale. Such a deal!

    EasyRider300M
  • 99_300m_ric_va99_300m_ric_va Member Posts: 377
    I hope they'll extend on that SC design for the RAM to the LX platform. Meaning I hope DC is leaving some room under the hood for all that. It sure would be cool to have a 500 300N. Sweet!
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    Thanks for the comments on the Yokos. I will take them into consideration next time around. I assume they come in stock size?
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    My "Check engine" light came back on six days after the dealer turned it off. The computer code was for the torque converter. My dealer took a cautious approach (i.e., not pushing to spend my money on an exploratory operation). Not finding any overt problem, they serviced the transmission with a filter change and total fluid flush. They did comment that the fluid smelled burned and frankly, were hoping the service would cure it. Guess not, so I'm taking it back in Monday. The irony is that the car is driving beautifully. You can really feel a difference in the smoothness of gear changes. Anyone out there had a torque converter go out on this trans? Is that where this is headed?
  • beespecialbeespecial Member Posts: 69
    Thanks for your comments. I'm an Indy native so I don't usually have a problem with snow. I guess it's the combination of "new car plus 3 season tires". This is the first time in 33 years of driving that I was unsure of the car in bad weather due to the tires. I checked Michelin's site and even they don't recommend using the Pilot Sport tires in snow. Of course they probably just want to sell more tires. The problem is they don't even offer a winter replacement at the same size. I have to go from 245/45 to 245/40. Don't like it but don't have much choice. Once I wear out these Pilots I probably will try to find some kind of all-season tire so I don't have to switch for the winter. These 18" wheels look great but if someone asked I wouldn't recommend them. Not enough tire options for them.
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