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Chrysler 300M

1166167169171172507

Comments

  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    You do not have to unhook the battery. It makes no differance at all. If you do not, it will slowly relearn and reset from your current settings. If you should disconnect the battery the engine will go into defalt mode and slowly relearn your new system. The system will have to relearn anyway and as far as I am concerned if you have done intake or exhaust changes your current settings should be closer then the factory defalt setting.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    PVC plastic (white) is not designed to handle heat, sunlight and is more brittle. ABS on the other hand is better suited for these conditions. For example PVC will burn easer, and if both left in the hot conditions of the engine bay After a few months the PVC will be very brittle where the ABS will not. Ask a plumber which will take boiling water better, and that is only 212 degrees. PVC is not recomended for over 100 degrees.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    Intriguing title, huh?

    As you may know I had a small rattle coming from my overhead computer console. I figured a loose connector somewhere. Today I removed the front screw and dropped down the front of the unit. I couldn't figure out how to take the whole unit down because I didn't find any more screws up towards the controls, and I didn't feel any obvious clips on the sides. Anyway, I felt around to see if there was anything up there that might be rattling. No luck. There felt like there was a couple of wires and one or more encased units. Nothing dangling. Rats. Well, when I put it back together I discovered that my temperature guage always reads a pleasant 67 degrees (which wouldn't be bad, except it's about 80 here). Consequently, the automatic climate control was trying to heat my already 80 degree interior. Everything else seems to work, including the compass and the other displays/controls.

    I think I pulled a wire loose but I'm not sure. Anyone know how to drop the unit down all the way so I can see what the heck I'm doing? Anyone know if there is a single wire connecting the external thermometer to the computer that I might have disconnected?

    Mucho Gracias in advance.

    Mike
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    Talked to some drivabilty techs, said they would try to reset the computer now that I have "Z" rated tires. They are going to check with the regonal to see if it can be done somehow (legal issues). I have made an oppontment to have the techs use the DRGIII to reprogram it.
    In talking to them they mentioned that all the Chrysler dealers were going to carry, and install the parts for the Special back in 2000, but their legal department killed the idea because of warranty issues. I talked to them about the club, and service tech gave me some names of some of the specialty guys in the city to contact about the gears and the computer reprograming. As I get infromation I will pass it on. I took some pictures of the 2002's for those of you who have not seen them. The new grill does kind of grow on you.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    I got the package today. I see what you mean, but it's not nearly as bad as I thought it would be (from your description). I think unless you're looking pretty closely you wouldn't notice. Still want me to battle? Would a partial refund be acceptable, or is a re-do the only acceptable outcome?

    -M
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    Anyone notice that in the new Petco commercial there is a 300M just like Big Red? It's the one where all of the pets climb out of their cars and start chanting "Petco". Yeah, stupid, but it was cool to see an M in a commercial.

    M
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    once you have taken the one screw out ,just pull down .The overhead unit is held in place with push in clips . Dont worry it wont break -Pull !!!!!
  • mikeyjohnmikeyjohn Member Posts: 365
    I watched my guy remove the overhead console, and I thought it was only a plug that he disconnected and the whole assembly came out, this was after he removed the screw that held the module in, and he replaced it with the new one. I do know that I had to turn off my car to get it to re-calibrate my read-out.

    I also noticed that my sandstone leather interior was starting to look dirty on the drivers seat( I must start washing my clothes) and as I have not got into the Zaino thing because of cost here in Canada, I found a leather treatment from Mothers California Gold and it works great. It does not leave that phoney glossy look that you get with other products. It looks like it just came from the factory. I also used the Mothers clearcoat treatment and after two coats I used the Mothers wax. It really looks great. I know I will hear from the Zaino crowd, but this works for me
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    HUH?? did you perhaps address the wrong person??
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    Thanks. I'll give it a yank. Is there a plug up there for the temperature sensor that I must have pulled out by accident?

    -M
  • mikeyjohnmikeyjohn Member Posts: 365
    Can you tell me if the rear view mirrors on the special work the same as on my 01M? I have that dimming feature which I like but I also like the turn signals in the mirrows because I am hard of hearing and I sometimes do not know that my turn signal is on and on and on!!!!!!!!!. Also I notice on my car that it is only the drivers side mirror that gives that nice green glow but the passenger side does not change. Is this normal or do I have a defect?
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    Ok, I got the unit out and everything appears to be plugged in. Hmmm. I also managed to break the top off the little "mushroomed" plastic pillar that holds the interior light assembly on the driver's side tight together. It gave out before the clip released. I had to release the clip by prying with a screw driver. Now I have three things wrong up there....the original rattle, the temp sensor, and the interior light assembly. Yikes. Maybe I should just head for the 5*. lol!

    Otto, any idea which of the wiring harnesses up there the temp sensor comes in on? My guess is the big plug that's away from the controls. The others look like plugs for the sunroof controls and the light bulbs. Is there anything inside the big black module up there that I might be able to check? Any other suggestions? Since it didn't stop working until I pulled the console the first time my guess is that the problem is in the console. not the sensor unit.

    ANyone with suggestions? I try to avoide dealers.

    -M
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    I'm pretty sure that both of my side mirrors dim.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    Nice of you to parachute in and talk smack about a board member without having any idea what's happened in the last 6 months...

    Fastdriver sold his M and got a red Acura CL Type S. Both daddy and baby are doing well.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    I fixed the light assembly problem by using a soldering iron to re-melt the plastic retaining pillar to re-create the "mushroom" that holds it together. Sitting in Big Red with a hot soldering iron is about as much excitement as I can stand. :-) I think the rattle is inside the black box up there, and I'm not sure I want to take it apart.

    Still have the temperature sensor problem. Sheesh. Looks like 5* time.
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    will emit gasses as it heats up that will mess up sensors in or near your engine.
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    Who was that masked man?
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    reports the outside (not inside) temp, it does not take it. The inside temp is taken below the fan speed knob, and the outer temp is taken, I believe, in one of the front fenders. I imagine that if it is successfully getting and displaying any data at all, it is getting all of it, including outside temp.
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    I recall hearing that only the driver's mirror dims. The passenger's might look like it dims because it is convex.
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    I took mine out to put in really bright white bulbs. I have a dead insect in one of the lenses that I can't remove because with all the wires attached I can't flip it upside down. I didn't feel compelled to unplug all those tiny little harnesses crammed in there, up there.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    Well, I took the whole computer unit apart. Neat stuff in there. The LED display is especially cool. Anyway, with everything apart I plugged the wiring unit directly into the comptuer board, and hanging from the ceiling it read....67 degrees. Sheesh. It was cool that as the computer board gently turned hanging from the wire the compass reading changed. heh. At least I took the opportunity to permanantly attach some parts together that were rattling in their seats. Hopefully that will help the rattle problem.

    Ok, I guess my next test is to go see if their is an issue on the sensor side. Anyone know where the external temperature sensor is?
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    The back of the lights are held on with small clips and what I've called "Mushroom pillars". Picture two pieces, the front lens assembly and a back reflective plate. The bulb sits between them. The edge of the lens assembly has a 3/4 long plastic pillar that juts out the back. The rear assembly has a corresponding hole. Once the two halves are mated someone in otto's world hits the top of the post with something real hot and melts it into the shape of the mushroom. The two halves are held together because the rod won't slip out of the hole. I believe, but I could be wrong, that you'd have to un-mushroom it to get at the bug. I did it by accident.

    -M
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    Maybe mine looks dim because of the 50% tint I have on the side windows. I'll check the feature documentation and give the final answer. ;)
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    It's driver side only.
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    I think I'll try compressed air...
  • drpixeldrpixel Member Posts: 256
    drpixel. Regarding suggestions for increasing membership. Fisrt, we have more that 156 members right now. At last count and including the membership packages I haven't put together yet since I've been playing "Glenn beye, Male Nurse" (my S.O. had surgery...), we have 165 members. I know you know this, but OUR club--and I stress OUR in caps--went live officially February 15. We started with -- 'officially -- 10 members, the Founding Fathers and Mothers so to speak; founded by and for 300m owners/enthusiasts everywhere. We have members from Sweden, Switzerland, Alaska and Hawaii, we receive email from as far away as Saudi Arabia...sheesh: when I think of JUST that, I'm truly amazed.
    Granted, I'd like to see our ranks swell to the hundreds like the PT Cruiser CLub has, but I prefer that we move along, incresing in numbers gradually, rather than a flood gate opening.
    Look at the people whom you and I and many others have met here on this forum. Like many others, it was my initial contact with this forum (..actually a much earlier forum...but the same place..) that helped me decide to buy eMily. Look how far we've come, Rick. From 10 members to 165 in only a few short months--not to bad for a small car club, right?

    We've had TWO club events and third will ocurr tomorrow in sunny Wall Township, Wall, New Jersey; and I cannot wait to meet my fellow 300m'ers. Watch our web site over the next week or so as a sub-site goes up with pictures and text, and maybe some streaming video/avi file of the festivities.

    I know you'd like us to have more members as would many others, ..so do I; but all things in their time, my friend. As we continue to grow as a club -- improving our web site, adding to what we have to offer our members as well as non-members, gradually increasing our membership -- we can only get better. I look forward to the day when out ranks WILL be counted -- not by hundreds -- but by legions; until that time grow with us member #12--the best is yet to come.
    (I will now step down off of my pulpit in my capacity as the Right Reverend Doctor Billy Joe Pixel--can I have an AMEN, my brothers and sisters?.....)

    Doc
  • russklassrussklass Member Posts: 389
    How about trying one of those cans of compressed air used for cleaning computers?
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    Everything is now back together, and I DID notice that the climate control is working fine Scott. I guess before it was temporarily insane. It's just the outside temp reading. I guess I'll let the 5* worry about the problem.
  • mikeyjohnmikeyjohn Member Posts: 365
    Thanks sdmike2, I thought I may have had a freeby coming. Now if I can find out the cost of these new turn signal mirrors and they work with the dimming option and they are colour coded for the Inferno Red, I might take the plunge, but knowing manufacturers, I might not like the price.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    My guess is that you'd be talking a couple of hundred each. The mirrors for the 2000 M are about $190 according to oem-car-parts.com.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    Not sure if you can separate the clamshell of those lights enough to even blow the little bugger out with compressed air. Might still need to get over the mushroom. The good news is that if you force the lamp apart you can always use a soldering iron to put it back together.
  • mikeyjohnmikeyjohn Member Posts: 365
    I thought it would be about that much, I'll wait and see and maybe I will take that plunge, as I do like the concept.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    The outside temp sensor is mounted to the front bumper beam of the car.if you look through the lower front grill on the right side you will see a wire and a black plastic sensor mounted to the bottom of the beam. As for the overhead unit ,we do not install this piece, it comes mounted to the headliner assenbly from an outside parts vendor and we just install the whole headliner unit to the car. At one time the headliner was screwed to the roof , now we glue them in.

    mikeyjohn.-the new turn signal mirrors do not light up the mirror itself ,the outer case has a bulb and lens on it. So even if you left your signal on you would not be able to see the light flash .
  • mikeyjohnmikeyjohn Member Posts: 365
    Thanks Otto!!!!
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    As a last ditch effort, and something I probably should have done sooner, I've disconnected the battery. Maybe it will jolt the system back into shape when re-connected.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    at http://community.webshots.com/user/my300m_ There is a black one for you Rogor:) It is at the bottom. Actually the new grill starts to look pretty good, and kind of grows on you. But they should have kept the emblem in th center.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    Boy, that is a completely UNLOADED 300M. Am I right? No options? The base '01 was $30,295 including destination charge. That $28,995 is a full $1,300 cheaper!! GEEZ!

    *grumble*
    *grumble*
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    I still Don't like the grill. It looks like a dumb grin. On the previous models the wing broke up the grill enough to not give that impression.
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    they just showed it on Autoweek TV
  • grunschevgrunschev Member Posts: 106
    I've probably had more experience changing flats than most here. I've had four (4) flats since last October. All with the standard wrench, no problems at all.

    As far as cleaning the leather, I just use saddle soap.

    Igor
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    Problems solved. Disconnecting the battery got the attention of the computer or sensors and now my external temperature gauge appears to be working correctly.

    Now, here is something strange. There are four wires or bundles connected to the positive terminal at the front of the M. Two of them are large battery cables (one on each side of the little junction), and two appear to be power cables or harnesses that I'm sure go to various accessories and computers. I disconnected three of them when I disconnected my battery...all but the one that ran directly to the positive terminal of the battery. Because nothing else was connected to it (the other 3 wires), nothing on the car had power. The remotes, the clocks, the stereo, ignition, etc. Nothing. Now, when I hooked the battery back up after 3 hours a couple of things happened. First, the car wouldn't give a hint of ignition for the first minute after hooking the battery back up. I though, oh crap, I killed the starter or something. After about a minute and about 10 turns of the key it started right up. Strange.

    I was totally prepared to have to re-set everything, so I started with the clocks. After that I went for the radio stations. Much to my surprise, THEY KEPT THEIR SETTINGS! How is this possible? The clock in the radio had been dead and needed to be re-set, and nothing was connected to the battery (as best as I could tell). Yet it kept the memory. On one hand it's cool, but on the other hand, it makes me wonder that if the radio somehow had some power to it, maybe I wasn't able to reset my master computer like I had intended. Anyone have a similar experience? Did I miss a connection somewhere? I'd like to think that my computer has a virgin brain ready to be trained again with the dualies, K&N, +4 plugs. etc.

    Any ideas?
  • bluestecbluestec Member Posts: 11
    Some have already commented on the lack of any real performance difference for the 300M Special. Last week, when DC updated the 300M site with 2002 pricing, I decided to run through the "Build Your Own" option to see what pricing changes were in effect. When I got to the bit about incentives and clicked "continue", a pop-up window appeared offering a $50.00 debit card "...just for experiencing 300M's 255 horses first hand." That seemed to imply that the "Special" wasn't the only 300M with that rating. A recent check at the DC Web site shows that they aren't currently running that incentive (they have the "We are currently updating our incentive information..." message up now). It seems that if they were doing something to achieve some performance difference with the Special, it's not a difference in HP. It does make one wonder how (and why) the HP number changed from 253 to 255. Maybe they're measuring it differently (hello, Nissan) than before. The Special is special - just not in the areas some would like.

    BTW, I've never understood why there hasn't been a 150 mph speedometer for the 300M all along and why they're now only putting one in the Special. Seems to me it should have been part of the PHP/PHG group. Have they ever put that speedo in the export models?

    Here's some info about price changes -

    I had read somewhere that DC would be changing the sound system options in an effort to reduce costs across the product line and that is confirmed by the fact that the standard system for the 300M is CD-only, without the cassette that was standard until 2002. If you want the cassette option it is an additional $100.00. Another interesting change is the increase in the cost of the Luxury Group package - $920.00 vs. $520.00. It appears that DC is including the cost of the full size spare in the Luxury Group. The chrome wheel spare will bump up the cost to $1050.00. The cost for the LG, subtracting the cost of the spare, is $670.00. That increase, over the previous $520.00, probably reflects the addition of the tire pressure monitoring system.

    Comparing a specific configuration for both model years, including the extra $100.00 for the same sound system, the MSRP difference between 2002 and 2001 is $1050.00 with the 2002 being the lower price. The difference for base MSRP is $1300.00.
  • mike_sp1mike_sp1 Member Posts: 43
    Since a number of you use a BassLink sub in your trunk, I am hoping that some of you will give me some ideas for wiring one. I am an old audio/HT nut and never have problems wiring a complex system in my home, but an automobile is another story. My 300M has the standard 9 speaker Infinity System. A few questions: Does the standard sound system have an amplifier in the trunk as I believe does the upgraded Infinity 11 speaker syste--therefore allowing me to tap into the speaker output wires there?? Is there a speaker wiring bulkhead connector in trunk just for a subwoofer as is found in the series 3 Beemers--yep--that's pretty unlikely? Are there any line level subwoofer outputs on the back of the radio for RCA plug connectors? Do I run the wiring harness under the carpets to the back of the radio and tap into the front L&R main speakers there and the rear L&R speakers in the trunk beneath the package tray? How do I remove the radio bezel or get to the back of the radio to tap into the speaker wiring harness if that is what is necessary? Did I ask enough questions;-) Seriously, after looking at the various wiring diagrams in the instruction booklet, I realize there are lots of possibilities depending upon the answers to the above questions. Any assistance here would be greatly appreciated. Mike_Sp1
  • jgoodsonjgoodson Member Posts: 30
    I'm not sure, but the radio may have a flash memory chip that holds it's memory when power is off.
  • bluestecbluestec Member Posts: 11
    Don't know how it works on the 300M, but there are a few ways to maintain things like radio station presets. One way is to use a capacitor to store an electrical charge to maintain memory settings for brief periods of time (has been used in VCRs and TVs for some settings). Another method is to use a EEPROM (Electrically Eraseable Programmable Read-Only Memory), a non-volatile method to store settings. "Flash Memory", as mentioned by jgoodson, is a type of EEPROM where data is written in blocks - faster than the one byte at a time of a standard EEPROM.
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    AMPLIFIER PINOUTS

    2000 300M Service Manual, pp. 8W-80-56, 57:

    Power Amplifier C1 (white):
    01------06
    07------12

    01 - 18 LG/VT Amplified Left Door Speaker (+)
    02 - 18 LB/RD Amplified Right Door Speaker (+)
    03 - 18 YL/RD Amplified Left Door Sail Speaker (+)
    04 - 18 OR/RD Amplified Right Door Sail Speaker (+)
    05 - 18 WT/VT Amplified Low Left Rear Speaker (+) *
    06 - 18 TN/VT Amplified Low Right Rear Speaker (+) *
    07 - 18 LG/BK Amplified Left Door Speaker (-)
    08 - 18 LB/BK Amplified Right Door Speaker (-)
    09 - 18 YL/BK Amplified Left Door Sail Speaker (-)
    10 - 18 OR/BK Amplified Right Door Sail Speaker (-)
    11 - 18 WT/DG Amplified Low Left Rear Speaker (-) *
    12 - 18 TN/DG Amplified Low Right Rear Speaker (-) *

    * Premium II Audio

    Power Amplifier C2 (white):
    01-----------11
    12-----------22
    (pins 3-10, 14-21 are offset)

    01 - 16 RD/WT Fused B(+)
    02 - 16 BK/LG Ground
    03 - 20 DG/RD Radio 12v Output (live when radio is on)
    04 - 18 VT Right Front Speaker (+)
    05 - 18 DG Left Front Speaker (+)
    06 - 18 DB/WT Right Rear Speaker (+)
    07 - 18 BR/YL Left Rear Speaker (+)
    08 -
    09 - 18 PK/RD Amplified Center Instrument Panel Speaker (+)
    10 - 18 WT/RD Amplified High Left Rear Speaker (+)
    11 - 18 TN/RD Amplified High Right Rear Speaker (+)
    12 - 16 RD Fused B(+)
    13 - 16 BK/LG Ground
    14 -
    15 - 18 DB/RD Right Front Speaker (-)
    16 - 18 BR/RD Left Front Speaker (-)
    17 - 18 DB/OR Right Rear Speaker (-)
    18 - 18 BR/LB Left Rear Speaker (-)
    19 -
    20 - 18 PK/BK Amplified Center Instrument Panel Speaker (-)
    21 - 18 WT/BK Amplified High Left Rear Speaker (-)
    22 - 18 TN/BK Amplified High Right Rear Speaker (-)

    (pins 4-7, 15-18 are signal level input)

    Service Manual, pp. 8F-3, 8W-90-18:

    The Midline/Infinity I amp is located in the right front cowl panel next to the HVAC unit and recirculation air motor (above and in front of the right foot of the front seat passenger).

    The Infinity II amp location is located beneath the trunk liner covering the right quarter inner panel (behind the passenger rear wheel well inside the trunk).

    RADIO PINOUTS

    2000 300M Service Manual, pp. 8F-4, 8W-80-60:

    Radio C1 (black):
    7-------1
    (tab on top)

    1 - 20 DG/RD Radio 12V Output
    2 - 18 BR/YL Left Rear Speaker (+)
    3 - 18 DB/WT Right Rear Speaker (+)
    4 - 18 DG Left Front Speaker (+)
    5 - 18 VT Right Front Speaker (+)
    6 - 18 BR/LB Left Rear Speaker (-)
    7 - 18 DB/OR Right Rear Speaker (-)

    Radio C2 (gray):
    7-------1
    (tab on top)

    1 - (Radio Mute ?)
    2 - 18 BR/RD Left Front Speaker (-)
    3 - 18 DB/RD Right Front Speaker (-)
    4 - 20 YL/BK Day Brightness Sense (Head/Park marker lamps)
    5 - 20 OR Panel Lamps Driver (Dimmer)
    6 - 20 RD Fused Ignition Switch Output (RUN-ACC)
    7 - 20 PK Fused B(+) (Memory)
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    do this to get the trim panel off:


    http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=9486000&p=32457836&f=0


    There are no special hookups for subwoofers, etc. You'll have to tap into the correct wires. Currently I have the line level stereo outputs going into the Basslink's speaker level inputs. Here is my installation, I may turn it around so it faces back:


    http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1280646&a=13687151&f=0

  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    Travis ( a dealer electrical tech will be testing the removel a the speed limiter function from the ECM tomorrow. He is doing it at home, since it is not sansioned by Chrysler. Will let you know as soon as I find out. Fingers and toes crossed. Once it is done the only way to test it is on the open road (this is the hard part with it being a holiday weekend and all the police on the roads). I have another person checking on the gears. They claim he is a Transmission specialist for Chrysler Products. I talked to him about the gears for the 2.7 being used in the 3.5L transaxle, and mentioned the prowlerpro gears. He is going to check on the different gears and get back to me. At which time I will let you all know.

    6
  • rschellerrscheller Member Posts: 42
    I had the engine start up lag on my 99 when I disconnected the battery. It took several turns of the key to get it to fire up. I remember too when I did it, the radio station presets stayed but the clocks and the memory seat settings were lost.
  • toms99toms99 Member Posts: 252
    ...ignoring such basic physics like friction and probably a dozen other things:

    Stock Wheel/Tire and Gears

    Tire Size = 225/55/17
    225mm = 8.85 inches
    X .55 =4.87 inches
    Diameter = 2(4.87)+17 = 26.74inches
    Circumference (in inches)= PI*26.74=83.976 inches
    Circumference (in feet) = 83.976 / 12 = 6.998 ft

    Stock RPM analysis at 60mph

    60mph=5280 feet per minute
    Tire Rotations Per Minute = 5280/6.998 = 754.50
    Engine RPM = 2.52 * 754.50 = 1901.34 rpm @ 60 MPH

    2002 Special Wheel/Tire and Gears

    Tire Size = 245/45/18
    245mm = 9.64 inches
    X .45 =4.34 inches
    Diameter = 2(4.34)+18 = 26.68inches
    Circumference (in inches)= PI*26.68=83.778 inches
    Circumference (in feet) = 83.778 / 12 = 6.981 ft

    Special RPM analysis at 60mph

    60mph=5280 feet per minute
    Tire Rotations Per Minute = 5280/6.981 = 756.33
    Engine RPM = 2.68 * 756.33 = 2026.96 rpm @ 60 MPH

    Is this logical, or did I mess up somewhere??
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