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Comments
Useless. They need factory MD and/or memory stick-type players.
I don't even know if the cassette player in my M works. Never used it.
Silver
the way i figure it, that obstuction that otto is talking about doesnt affect anything, cuz the hole the tb uses to take the air only is as big as what the plenum allows, right? i will surely remove it if it will actually help, but im afraid if you take it out, the air wont be led straight to the tb, as to actually slow it down. now im new at this car stuff but thats just what im seeing, help please...
To take the wipers off, pry up the little plastic cap on the wiper arm. A flat head screwdriver will do this. That revels the wiper are nut. just take that nut off, then the wipers come off.
The wiper cowl is held in with torx screws. Just find the right size, remove them, & those come off.
Then remove the bolts from the strut brace. Then that comes off.
I dought you can remove the Tb without taking this stuff off. I had to.
still trying to figure out my previous questions, as to the plenum obstruction, and the reserve air box..
hope someone helps soon, so i can get to it and still have enought light to put everything back!
BTW, cool air = denser air = more oxygen to burn.
I wonder if this is worth adding, along with an e-Ram, of course:
http://www.pvitech.com/pvi/pvi-gasoline.html
are u saying to cut off what otto was talking about, cuz it seems to me that the alloted area in the tubing is the same size as the hole in the TB. isnt it there to send air strait to the hole?
I had two SHOs, a '94 and a '96. Eack model had less equipment than the last, and the '98 I had ordered was even worse...then I saw the 300M at the Jan. '98 Detroit show and there was no turning back.
Now Chrysler has dumped the cowling over the grill, cheapened the underhood silencer pad and the standard radio. What else have they done that we can't see?
Detroit now has less than 60% of the domestic market... they need to wake up SOON!
As far as the cassette player goes, I drive many multi-hour business trips and like to listen to books on tape. More are coming out on CD, but there is not enough variety yet. I vote to keep both formats.
couldnt actually hurt right? worst case senario, it does no different, right??
M
-M
well guys i did it. (removed the ball 'o rubber otto was talking about) and yes, it did help. i dont know by how much i just know that when i took 'er for a test spin i actually got excited and drove around the block several times! bout to take the 'ol lady for a spin
Finally, the car exhibits noticably higher acceleration performance. Technicall speaking, it runs like a raped ape when I tromp on the gas. It's all good!
The problem is that here in South Florida there are very few PHG-equipped 300Ms on the dealers' lots. And as far as I can see when they order PHG, they only order the "first" stereo upgrade. It seems that the order the better stereo upgrade only for the 300Ms with the luxury package, but they figure the old farts who want luxury aren't going to want PHG.
I guess I could order a new 300M but then I probably couldn't expect to get any good deals. And I am not as rich here in FL as I used to be in NYC.
Phases, the worst thing is that you could grind all the way through the bend. There is two restrictions one at the top (one and two O clock and the one Otto is talking about at seven O clock) that can be removed.
i only took out the bottom left restriction, tomorrow ill work on the top right, but there doesnt look like much to work with.
also, my plenum doesnt look restricted at all. doesnt have the rivets in it like the pics that were posted. any other advice would be appreciated, i love more power. MWAAAAHHAHAHHAHA!!
1. Disconnect - battery cable.
2. Remove wiper arms.
3. Remove cowl screen.
4. Remove cowl plenum.
5. Disconnect air plenum from throttle body.
6. Remove throttle cable bracket.
7. Disconnect electrical connectors.
8. Disconnect top vacuum hose.
9. Remove throttle body support bracket from the bottom of the throttle body.
10. Remove 3 throttle body bolts.
11. Hold throttle lever in wide open position. Remove throttle cable and speed control cables from throttle arm.
12. Clean mating surfaces.
There are no illustrations.
Remove the plenum from the car. Both ends are slightly flanged. You can start at either end and go around the circumference with pliers breaking off the flanged part of the inner sleeve only. After that, you can insert a small screwdriver between the inner and outer sleeves. Applying pressure with the screwdriver allows you to grab small pieces of the inner sleeve with pliers and break them off. You start to gain a feel for how much pressure can be applied without breaking the outer sleeve. Patience is a factor, because the thing comes out in literally hundreds of pieces.
If you get sick of it, you can slap it back in the car and forget the whole thing. Eventually you work your way inside the box and need vicegrips or channel lock pliers to reach in there. Then you start all over at the other end. Bottom line: tedious, but do-able.
One end has a tab anchoring the inner sleeve to the bottom of the box. I drilled it out from the bottom and later patched it with a black plastic rivet and cement. Also, the factory clamp on the TB side of the box is non-reusable, so you end up replacing it.
Here's the deal on the TB. Your stock TB has a 68mm plate, but narrows to 62mm at the end where the intake hose connects.
If you want 68mm you can dremel the intake sides of the TB to match the opening around the butterfly plate. Grind and polish, etc. You might also grind the manifold side to remove the ridge there too. Finally grind the throttle stop a little to get the plate to open a full 90 degs.
OR
You could disassemble and have it bored to 68mm, grind the throttle stop, put it back together and go.
OR
You could disassembly and have it bored to 70mm. This requires this 70mm replacement plate from Holley, part no 26-130. The shop that did mine also shaved down the rod that holds the plate on one side and cut off the other side. The also tried to use low profile bolts to hold on the plate. This is what they do to their custom Holley 4 barrel carbs, so we both agreed it should help. Also, finally grind the throttle stop for full 90 deg opening.
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/AMS/AMSTB/26-130.html
Now you've seen my pics on my TB after it was bored with this new Holley plate installed. It looks mighty thin in the walls, but it is strong. I am however careful not to tighten the intake hose clamp too hard though.
http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/bc/rpowelljr300n/lst?.dir=/My+Photos/1999+300m+70mm+Thottle+Body
Lastly someone suggested biasing the throttle position sensor to make the car think the accelerator is pressed down a little more than it acutally is. Supposedly will dump additional fuel. To do this it was suggested to drill the TPS mounting holes into slots so it can be rotated and locked down. I might try this, since I have another sensor anyways.
Oh, one last thing, these plates and the butterfly opening are not completely round. Actually it is slightly oval. I think so that a little air can leak around for idle purposes. BTW, if you don't play with the idle screw, it will idle fine when you put your TB back together. It requires a special torx screwdriver anyways, one with a hole in the center.
Sorry so long.
Robert
2. Heading in to 5* to have my second rear window motor replaced. Only 2 months/10K miles left on my warranty.
On the bright side, window motors have been my only complaint with this car.
Maybe dealer will have more info on the not-so-special Special. Not!
After one week (about 300 miles) of driving on mine, I couldn't be happier. With these tires, road noise is virtually nil and this is a very firm yet smooth riding and stable tire. I'm expecting my gas milage to increase a mile or two per gallon as well since rolling resistance and steering effort also feels lower.
and no I don't work for or sell Bridgestones, just want to pass on my experiences with them so far.
Rick
The Consummate 300M Pages
Ok for the Results:
Don't bother doing this. It only seems to make the idle faster and the car harder to stop. The tranny is confused too as to when to shift. 4th is hard to get in autostick since the car doesn't let you upshift into 4th if the accelerator is pressed too far. I can't say it was any faster, since I was so focused on the drivability changes in effect.
So I put the old sensor back on and all is fine again.
I'm very pleased with the Michelins and was planning on getting the Pilots a lot of people are upgrading to.
Why go Bridgestone (aka Firestone ) instead of Michelin?
When I started looking for replacements, I made the mistake of letting the local Evans Tire store convince me to try Falken ZE-502 performance tires in 235/45-17 size. I posted about my experiences with the Falkens. Thankfully they had a 30 daysatisfaction guaranty period, so I gave them the benefit of the doubt and drove the Falkens for 3 weeks and took them back for a free rebalance, then one week later after doing some tire research I told them I wanted Bridgestone Turanzas instead of the Falkens. To which they did the swap out, no arguments. The Bridgestones came with a 30 satifaction guaranty too, but I won't be taking them back.
I considered Michelins and several other brands as well, but based on my research, my short list said to try the Bridgestones first and I couldn't be happier with them.
I'm certainly not knocking Michelins or any other brands (except Goodyear :P) and others have had good things to say about their Michelins but I'm so pleased with the Bridgestone Turanzas, I'm gladly done with tire hassle for the next 40,000 miles.
I did discover one thing through all this which is that tire performance is a very subjective thing and each individual driver has to decide for themselves what tire works best for the kind of driving style and ride/performance combination they're looking for. That's one thing that makes it hard to say that any particular tire is best. But if you looking for similar tire performance results that I was looking for which was a smooth, quiet and stable ride with very good handling characteristics, the Bridgestone Turanza ER33 is one very good choice.
Rick
Tell me about the salarys coming from NYC too
I might do the signal mirrors, but that's not a performance mod.
Thanks
Stock 300M with Goodyear LS tires. 0-60 time_7.8
Dual Exhaust___________________7.4
K&N st. replace air filter___________7.3
Bored outh TB with 3" tube________7.2
Bridgestone S-03 pole posit._______7.0
Hood Scoop forced air____________6.9
Times are rounded up to the nearest tenth. Times can change for example if you put the K&N filter first it will cut down you time about .2 instead of the .1 after installing the exhaust, but then you will only get about .3 out of it from adding the exhaust. Also air tempiture, altiude, and other air and road conditions will effece your times.
I like keeping my engine compartment mods hidden from view. Having something that looks completely different from factory in there would only confuse the monkeys.
Now the nuts and bolts of all this Horspower gains!
>The trepid weights ~3555 lbs so I searched for a HP
>calculator that would give numbers to match the stock
>setup. I found one that if you put in the numbers
>(3555 lbs and 89mph trap speed) gave exactly 242HP!
>Perfect!
>
>So stock is 242 HP
>To get 1 mph improvement in the quarter takes about 8
>hp.(varies from car to car based on weight)
>My HP is 265 HP which fits with the # Im getting.
>Breakdown:
>TB alone gives little improvment (it needs air)
>good for 4 or 5 hp
>Air intake with TB gives about 20HP
>
>
>
>I did not do a run with just an intake and a stock TB
>but people that have just got the intake have noted a
>difference.
>