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Chrysler 300M

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Comments

  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    They might as well put in an LP record player!

    Useless. They need factory MD and/or memory stick-type players.
  • fuzzywuzzyfuzzywuzzy Member Posts: 958
    Cassette? What's a casette???? :)

    I don't even know if the cassette player in my M works. Never used it.
  • silverbullet4silverbullet4 Member Posts: 449
    Ha! Come to think of it, I have never tried mine either. Lets see, I think I might have an old ZZ Top tape around. All the rest are Christmas and little kids stuff. My kids are way too big for those. CD player and changer have been flawless so far.

    Silver
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    well i got the whole intake system removed, other than the tb. are u sure cutting off that mound of obstruction would do much good? or would it not even matter, the way the tb is set up?
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    guys, i took all of it out without removing the crap under the winshield wipers, cuz i dont know how to get around the wipers, i hope i can put it back on! now, can i get the tb out like that?

    the way i figure it, that obstuction that otto is talking about doesnt affect anything, cuz the hole the tb uses to take the air only is as big as what the plenum allows, right? i will surely remove it if it will actually help, but im afraid if you take it out, the air wont be led straight to the tb, as to actually slow it down. now im new at this car stuff but thats just what im seeing, help please...
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    would it help or hurt or neither to remove the reserve air box?
  • fuzzywuzzyfuzzywuzzy Member Posts: 958
    I'm shocked you got the TB hose off the TB, without removing the strut bar, & wiper cowl. They are very easy to remove:

    To take the wipers off, pry up the little plastic cap on the wiper arm. A flat head screwdriver will do this. That revels the wiper are nut. just take that nut off, then the wipers come off.

    The wiper cowl is held in with torx screws. Just find the right size, remove them, & those come off.

    Then remove the bolts from the strut brace. Then that comes off.

    I dought you can remove the Tb without taking this stuff off. I had to.
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    thanks!! id do all that if i thought i could do anything to the tb once removing it. all i have is a dremel tool, not sure if thats enough machine..

    still trying to figure out my previous questions, as to the plenum obstruction, and the reserve air box..

    hope someone helps soon, so i can get to it and still have enought light to put everything back!
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    The air box is good to keep as it allows cool fender air in instead of hot engine air, which would make the most difference accelerating after a stop, I would imagine. If you do the exposed cone filter without the air box, I would fasion a panel to create as air tight a barrier as possible between the engine and filter, making the compartment for the filter as large as possible without melting the panel on the engine, of course. The increased volume of air would benefit you, as would keeping out the hot air.

    BTW, cool air = denser air = more oxygen to burn.

    I wonder if this is worth adding, along with an e-Ram, of course:
    http://www.pvitech.com/pvi/pvi-gasoline.html
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    I am wondering too if there is any value in the obstruction right before the TB. I would doubt it, as the whole plastic shell is shaped to direct air that way anyway. And any obstruction that leaves the air passage smaller than the TB (which is 2.75" at best) must go, especially since air is not being forced in at all from the outside. As for the rest, I think as long as there is a 3" diameter passage from the outside air to the TB, all will be well. I don't think replacing everything with tubes is at all necessary. Looks cool, though!
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    i meant that second air box thing behind the one with the filter...

    are u saying to cut off what otto was talking about, cuz it seems to me that the alloted area in the tubing is the same size as the hole in the TB. isnt it there to send air strait to the hole?
  • russklassrussklass Member Posts: 389
    I quit Ford after 14 years because they went on a decontenting binge.
    I had two SHOs, a '94 and a '96. Eack model had less equipment than the last, and the '98 I had ordered was even worse...then I saw the 300M at the Jan. '98 Detroit show and there was no turning back.
    Now Chrysler has dumped the cowling over the grill, cheapened the underhood silencer pad and the standard radio. What else have they done that we can't see?
    Detroit now has less than 60% of the domestic market... they need to wake up SOON!
    As far as the cassette player goes, I drive many multi-hour business trips and like to listen to books on tape. More are coming out on CD, but there is not enough variety yet. I vote to keep both formats.
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    The second airbox is the resonator. It dampens the noise, I suppose, and probably doesn't detract from the air getting to the engine in a timely manner. I would only bother removing it if I kept the factory setup minus the air box, attached an exposed cone filter, and added a hot air blocking panel, so there's more air volume in the compartment.
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    now just the one. should i cut off what otto was talking about in the tube that connects to the TB. that lump 'o rubber..

    couldnt actually hurt right? worst case senario, it does no different, right??
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    Well, otto said it's still in the 2002s, and to hack it out. Those who have replaced their factory air stuff with tubes -- did you keep using the part that connects to the TB (assuming it's separate or able to be made so)? If so, did you keep the rubber part intact?
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    If you guys want to see a company that is doing something right, check out the new Lexus ES300. It's a couple grand more than the M, but they have improved the fit and finish and have added more luxury features to an already great car. I considered an '01 when I got my M but it was several inches narrower in the rear seats, which defeated my "3 car seat" goal.

    M
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    Check your prez e-mail account
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    sorry to hear that you have a couple of un-planned weeks off. I hope things turn around for you and the factory.

    -M
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    otto: hey man sorry bout work man.. seems like this has happened to you one (or two) to many times since i 'met' you. but hey, i got bout three ppl at work, im slowly but surely convincing them that they can afford it. heh.. sorry bout buggin ya bout the pic u posted and seemingly ignoring the fact that your gettin screwed again. i was in a rush cuz a storm was coming (and hit right when i had everything removed..)

    well guys i did it. (removed the ball 'o rubber otto was talking about) and yes, it did help. i dont know by how much i just know that when i took 'er for a test spin i actually got excited and drove around the block several times! bout to take the 'ol lady for a spin :D
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    the exhuast sound is deeper now, too
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    For anyone who has done any significant mods to their M, like dual exhaust, better flowing intake, bosch plugs, etc., I highly recommend doing the battery disconnect thing. My computer used to tell me that I had about 280 miles left on a tank when I filled up. After the re-set it now says about 340. My guess is that I've been getting better mpg since my mods and the computer needed to forget the old information in order to better predict under my current set-up. Also, I think I'm getting a little better mileage, at least according to the computer. On the highway at 70mph the computer tells me I'm getting around 24-27mpg..more than before. Not sure if my engine is more efficient after the re-set, or if the computer now knows that my car has been getting better mpg since my mods. Either way it's better.

    Finally, the car exhibits noticably higher acceleration performance. Technicall speaking, it runs like a raped ape when I tromp on the gas. It's all good! :)
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    i second that. i ALWAYS do when i do a performance mod. its SOP.
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    If I get get a new 300M in a couple of months, I want the upgraded stereo with 320 watts and 11 speakers, and the PHG package. Just like my 99 300M.

    The problem is that here in South Florida there are very few PHG-equipped 300Ms on the dealers' lots. And as far as I can see when they order PHG, they only order the "first" stereo upgrade. It seems that the order the better stereo upgrade only for the 300Ms with the luxury package, but they figure the old farts who want luxury aren't going to want PHG.

    I guess I could order a new 300M but then I probably couldn't expect to get any good deals. And I am not as rich here in FL as I used to be in NYC.
  • mikeyjohnmikeyjohn Member Posts: 365
    Go into your local dealer and build yourself an M you may be quite surprised how much you will save by factory ordering your car. Remember the dealer does not have to pay for having a factory ordered car in their lot. I saved a bundle and got all the options I wanted. You are in the drivers seat NOT the dealer.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    Thanks Otto for posting my picture. If you do not have the bored out TB you will notice less of a change, but it still will help. There are three restriction of 2.5 inches, the interior of the Plenum, the 90 degree bend and the throttle body it self. Some of us bored out out throttle bodys to 2.75 inches so opening up the restrictions help noticeably. The 3" tube helps because it allows the same amount of air to travel slower around the restrictions (bends in the line).

    Phases, the worst thing is that you could grind all the way through the bend. There is two restrictions one at the top (one and two O clock and the one Otto is talking about at seven O clock) that can be removed.
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    no, i dont have the tb bored, but i sure would like to, but im bettin it takes more than a dremel tool right? if i can do it safely with a dremel, i will..

    i only took out the bottom left restriction, tomorrow ill work on the top right, but there doesnt look like much to work with.

    also, my plenum doesnt look restricted at all. doesnt have the rivets in it like the pics that were posted. any other advice would be appreciated, i love more power. MWAAAAHHAHAHHAHA!!
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    on the TB, the two cords, wires, whatever ( i assume the gas and the cruise control), how the heck i get the TB off with those things on there???
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    2000 Service Manual, p. 14-36:

    1. Disconnect - battery cable.
    2. Remove wiper arms.
    3. Remove cowl screen.
    4. Remove cowl plenum.
    5. Disconnect air plenum from throttle body.
    6. Remove throttle cable bracket.
    7. Disconnect electrical connectors.
    8. Disconnect top vacuum hose.
    9. Remove throttle body support bracket from the bottom of the throttle body.
    10. Remove 3 throttle body bolts.
    11. Hold throttle lever in wide open position. Remove throttle cable and speed control cables from throttle arm.
    12. Clean mating surfaces.

    There are no illustrations.
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    Where can I purchase the TB part that was bored to 70 mm and how much was it? Also, is there a separate plate that is involved with all of this?
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    He's so sick of me talking about my car that he said if he won the lottery, he'd buy a whole fleet of 300Ms and crash two a day in front of my apartment -- just because he could.
  • madcityrussmadcityruss Member Posts: 40
    For those wanting to hollow out the plenum, I have a suggested approach that worked for me.

    Remove the plenum from the car. Both ends are slightly flanged. You can start at either end and go around the circumference with pliers breaking off the flanged part of the inner sleeve only. After that, you can insert a small screwdriver between the inner and outer sleeves. Applying pressure with the screwdriver allows you to grab small pieces of the inner sleeve with pliers and break them off. You start to gain a feel for how much pressure can be applied without breaking the outer sleeve. Patience is a factor, because the thing comes out in literally hundreds of pieces.
    If you get sick of it, you can slap it back in the car and forget the whole thing. Eventually you work your way inside the box and need vicegrips or channel lock pliers to reach in there. Then you start all over at the other end. Bottom line: tedious, but do-able.

    One end has a tab anchoring the inner sleeve to the bottom of the box. I drilled it out from the bottom and later patched it with a black plastic rivet and cement. Also, the factory clamp on the TB side of the box is non-reusable, so you end up replacing it.
  • 99_300m_ric_va99_300m_ric_va Member Posts: 377
    For anyone thinking about Throttle Body Modifications,


    Here's the deal on the TB. Your stock TB has a 68mm plate, but narrows to 62mm at the end where the intake hose connects.


    If you want 68mm you can dremel the intake sides of the TB to match the opening around the butterfly plate. Grind and polish, etc. You might also grind the manifold side to remove the ridge there too. Finally grind the throttle stop a little to get the plate to open a full 90 degs.


    OR


    You could disassemble and have it bored to 68mm, grind the throttle stop, put it back together and go.


    OR


    You could disassembly and have it bored to 70mm. This requires this 70mm replacement plate from Holley, part no 26-130. The shop that did mine also shaved down the rod that holds the plate on one side and cut off the other side. The also tried to use low profile bolts to hold on the plate. This is what they do to their custom Holley 4 barrel carbs, so we both agreed it should help. Also, finally grind the throttle stop for full 90 deg opening.


    http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/AMS/AMSTB/26-130.html


    Now you've seen my pics on my TB after it was bored with this new Holley plate installed. It looks mighty thin in the walls, but it is strong. I am however careful not to tighten the intake hose clamp too hard though. :)


    http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/bc/rpowelljr300n/lst?.dir=/My+Photos/1999+300m+70mm+Thottle+Body


    Lastly someone suggested biasing the throttle position sensor to make the car think the accelerator is pressed down a little more than it acutally is. Supposedly will dump additional fuel. To do this it was suggested to drill the TPS mounting holes into slots so it can be rotated and locked down. I might try this, since I have another sensor anyways.


    Oh, one last thing, these plates and the butterfly opening are not completely round. Actually it is slightly oval. I think so that a little air can leak around for idle purposes. BTW, if you don't play with the idle screw, it will idle fine when you put your TB back together. It requires a special torx screwdriver anyways, one with a hole in the center.

    Sorry so long.


    Robert

  • madcityrussmadcityruss Member Posts: 40
    1. Electrical storms.

    2. Heading in to 5* to have my second rear window motor replaced. Only 2 months/10K miles left on my warranty.

    On the bright side, window motors have been my only complaint with this car.

    Maybe dealer will have more info on the not-so-special Special. Not!
  • madcityrussmadcityruss Member Posts: 40
    Thanks for good info on TB options. That is going to be my winter 300M project.
  • travmntravmn Member Posts: 30
    With all this talk about boring out the TB, does anyone have any performance data before/after? How much difference is there. Thanks
  • rschellerrscheller Member Posts: 42
    You folks who are looking to replace your OEM Goodyears or another brand tire with a stock size tire, and are sick of the road noise your tires make or the harsh ride, steering shakes or shimmies, you gotta get a set of Bridgestone Turanza ER33 H rated tires.


    After one week (about 300 miles) of driving on mine, I couldn't be happier. With these tires, road noise is virtually nil and this is a very firm yet smooth riding and stable tire. I'm expecting my gas milage to increase a mile or two per gallon as well since rolling resistance and steering effort also feels lower.


    and no I don't work for or sell Bridgestones, just want to pass on my experiences with them so far.


    Rick

    The Consummate 300M Pages

  • 99_300m_ric_va99_300m_ric_va Member Posts: 377
    Ok, Tried the Slotted Throttle Position Sensor thing with my extra TPS sensor from my original Thottle Body. I used a drill bit to drill out the metal sleeves. They drilled some, then just pushed out of the plastic.

    Ok for the Results:

    Don't bother doing this. It only seems to make the idle faster and the car harder to stop. The tranny is confused too as to when to shift. 4th is hard to get in autostick since the car doesn't let you upshift into 4th if the accelerator is pressed too far. I can't say it was any faster, since I was so focused on the drivability changes in effect.

    So I put the old sensor back on and all is fine again.
  • 99_300m_ric_va99_300m_ric_va Member Posts: 377
    Hey did you have Badyears before changing to the Bridgestones?

    I'm very pleased with the Michelins and was planning on getting the Pilots a lot of people are upgrading to.

    Why go Bridgestone (aka Firestone :( ) instead of Michelin?
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    Good to hear all went OK with the intake mod. Now if you really want to feel some grunt you will have to make one of those custom 3 inch intakes and totally get rid of the factory setup. Get the bigger TB also . The guy on the Intrepid site claims about 20 h.p with intake and TB
  • rschellerrscheller Member Posts: 42
    Yes, my 99 300M had the Badyears... I don't care to remember how many times I complained to my dealer about them as they rotated, rebalanced them, etc. for over two years (36K miles) and they just kept being poor tires...
    When I started looking for replacements, I made the mistake of letting the local Evans Tire store convince me to try Falken ZE-502 performance tires in 235/45-17 size. I posted about my experiences with the Falkens. Thankfully they had a 30 daysatisfaction guaranty period, so I gave them the benefit of the doubt and drove the Falkens for 3 weeks and took them back for a free rebalance, then one week later after doing some tire research I told them I wanted Bridgestone Turanzas instead of the Falkens. To which they did the swap out, no arguments. The Bridgestones came with a 30 satifaction guaranty too, but I won't be taking them back.
    I considered Michelins and several other brands as well, but based on my research, my short list said to try the Bridgestones first and I couldn't be happier with them.
    I'm certainly not knocking Michelins or any other brands (except Goodyear :P) and others have had good things to say about their Michelins but I'm so pleased with the Bridgestone Turanzas, I'm gladly done with tire hassle for the next 40,000 miles.
    I did discover one thing through all this which is that tire performance is a very subjective thing and each individual driver has to decide for themselves what tire works best for the kind of driving style and ride/performance combination they're looking for. That's one thing that makes it hard to say that any particular tire is best. But if you looking for similar tire performance results that I was looking for which was a smooth, quiet and stable ride with very good handling characteristics, the Bridgestone Turanza ER33 is one very good choice.
    Rick
  • fuzzywuzzyfuzzywuzzy Member Posts: 958
    I solved that problem....Just not buying another 300M :)
    Tell me about the salarys coming from NYC too :(
  • fuzzywuzzyfuzzywuzzy Member Posts: 958
    Well, I'm done with any more performance mods to my M. I'm happy with what I have, & if I need more, I'll take my 96 Impala out of storage :)

    I might do the signal mirrors, but that's not a performance mod.
  • fuzzywuzzyfuzzywuzzy Member Posts: 958
    Well, I had my M in for my oil change today, & I was walking around it just checking things out, & I noticed that the little inside piece of the Monza yellow tips I have had on my M for almost 2 years, broke off. It's now ratteling inside the tip. The others are fine. So now I need to buy new tips again, to fix it. Makes no sense to get only 1 tip to replace the broken one, because it wouldn't match the wear on the other one. Has anyone else had this happen to the dual Monza yellow tips? I don't know if I want to buy the same ones again. What other options are there for tip, & maybe part numbers for them too.
    Thanks
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    What are the approximate prices for a new TB and a Holley 70mm plate?
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    Speed mods results.
    Stock 300M with Goodyear LS tires. 0-60 time_7.8
    Dual Exhaust___________________7.4
    K&N st. replace air filter___________7.3
    Bored outh TB with 3" tube________7.2
    Bridgestone S-03 pole posit._______7.0
    Hood Scoop forced air____________6.9

    Times are rounded up to the nearest tenth. Times can change for example if you put the K&N filter first it will cut down you time about .2 instead of the .1 after installing the exhaust, but then you will only get about .3 out of it from adding the exhaust. Also air tempiture, altiude, and other air and road conditions will effece your times.
  • scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    Haven't actually done anything yet. But I plan to order a plenum, even if it's an older one that I have to hack apart. Once I install it and the cone filter, it should be as effective as a replacement 3" tube. Someone here said they noticed no improvement when they switched to a tube, but did when they switched to a cone filter and again with TB mods.

    I like keeping my engine compartment mods hidden from view. Having something that looks completely different from factory in there would only confuse the monkeys.
  • silverbullet4silverbullet4 Member Posts: 449
    Otto-about that claimed 20 horsepower gain. Can you direct me to that post? Is it on Edmunds or where? Thanks again for your constant support for this group.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    Just finished reading an article , that states your President Bush saying "That the United States has no more important relationship in the world than the one we have with Mexico" WOW I thought we Canadians had the most important relationship with the U.S .
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    Why not do as I did. Keep the Plemum in tact and just get a 3" pipe and a 45 degree bend and use them. If you have problems just stick them back in. It would only take a minute or two.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    Here is what was posted on the site

    Now the nuts and bolts of all this Horspower gains!
    >The trepid weights ~3555 lbs so I searched for a HP
    >calculator that would give numbers to match the stock
    >setup. I found one that if you put in the numbers
    >(3555 lbs and 89mph trap speed) gave exactly 242HP!
    >Perfect!
    >
    >So stock is 242 HP
    >To get 1 mph improvement in the quarter takes about 8
    >hp.(varies from car to car based on weight)
    >My HP is 265 HP which fits with the # Im getting.
    >Breakdown:
    >TB alone gives little improvment (it needs air)
    >good for 4 or 5 hp
    >Air intake with TB gives about 20HP
    >
    >
    >
    >I did not do a run with just an intake and a stock TB
    >but people that have just got the intake have noted a
    >difference.
    >
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