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Toyota Sienna Maintenance and Repair (2003 earlier)

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Comments

  • paysonpayson Member Posts: 32
    As a general rule, you do have to slam the hatch pretty hard to make sure it's closed, unless you have a window, or door open. The car is very airtight. I'm not sure if that is related to your problem, it may be if you have a low battery. We have a 2000 XLE w/ 61,000 miles, and haven't experienced any problem like that. We did replace the original battery a few months ago.
  • davemackdavemack Member Posts: 4
    We figured it out!
    When we make a hard left turn the passenger door opens ever so slightly even when locked to make the stupid car computer think that the door is not fully shut or is being opened and in that brief instant, WALA! opens the locks. I can also do this by leaning into the door and sure enough it happens. Interestingly, we took iin for service and they even test-drove it and didn't discover it! I discovered it on the ride home after they thought we were mad! So at least we figured out the problem. Somehow, the door is not aligned perfectly with the locks/pins etc... My bro-in-law said it's a relatively easy fix.

    Phew....
  • nickshamsnickshams Member Posts: 4
    I am looking roof rack for my 98 Sienna , Do any body know where i an find in Toronto.

    Thanks
  • lunarmistlunarmist Member Posts: 41
    We have a 2002 Sienna LE Symphony with the passenger side power sliding door. I noticed the front edge of the power sliding door has a vertical rubber edge that fits nicely against the front passenger side door. After three years of ownership I noticed the drive side non-power sliding door does not have the black rubber edging. can other owners verify ?

    I only noticed this because of an annoying thumping noise we notice from the driver side sliding door and tried to see what is causing it.

    Thanks
  • carmexocarmexo Member Posts: 2
    Any luck with this problem? I am also having this problem with my 2001 Sienna. It started about a year ago and we've been living with it because the light would stop blinking if you press the A/C button a few times. Now, the problem is persistent and will not go away. I took it in to the dealer today and of course the light did not blink. They could not find anything wrong! I hate when that happens.

    I'd be interested in hearing how anyone fixed this problem. I sure hope it's not the compressor because the dealer said it will cost around $1500 to replace!

    Thanks
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    why not chk the drivers side door even if its not power the rubber edging should be the same, i think :D
  • lunarmistlunarmist Member Posts: 41
    Yes, I realize that. I'm hoping other owners can verify, either way, missing or normal.

    Also, is it normal that when we first drive off , cold, with our 2002 Sienna LE, the transmission has to first rev up to 3000 RPM before it will shift down ? once it shifts, its a smooth ride. we have 36, 400 miles.
  • jburkejburke Member Posts: 1
    Our dog was in our van and chewed up all six shoulder/lap seat belts. Any ideas on where we can buy replacements at a reasonable price? Dealer's price is outrageous!!! $120-!60 each! Thanks!
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    thats normal. tranny will only shift properly once the engine has warmed up a bit. design intent. dont rev the engine too high within the first few minutes of startup.
  • sebuncsebunc Member Posts: 2
    My seat belt warning light for the driver's seat comes on intermittently despite having the seat belt securely fastened. It appears to be random; I can see no explanation. I can get it to go out by fully extending , jerking, and disconnecting/reconnecting the belt. The light flashes, and I am worried that it might be signalling another problem.

    Does anyone have any ideas? Could the seat belt sensor be faulty. If so, how much does it cost to replace? Are there any safety concerns?

    Thanks,
    Seb
  • jprocjproc Member Posts: 135
    We had the exact same problem. After several weeks of this occuring-it stopped-now the light never flashes whether the seat belt is on or not.
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    i read in another forum that if you fully extend the belt and jiggle it a bit the issue witll be resolved. A low tech solution to a high tech van :D
  • freebirdfreebird Member Posts: 77
    My dealer wanted $1425 to replace the compressor and clutch. Logically I could not see how the compressor could be bad since it worked properly when the light was not blinking.

    I took the van to an A/C specialist and they determined that it was just the compressor clutch that was bad. It was $300 to shim the clutch to get more life out of it or $600 to replace the clutch. I went with the replacement.

    The blinking light is telling you that the system thinks the compressor is not spinning at the speed that it thinks it should be spinning at (based on a RPM reading from the tach.) This is a fail-safe because if the compressor did lock up, the belt would break and therefore leave you stranded on the road. The A/C specialist was knowledgeable on the Toyota system and I am glad that I got a second opinion. While I am pro-dealer for the servicing of my Toyota and they would have fixed the van for $1425, I am glad that I didn't spend the extra $800+ that the dealer was suggesting I spend.
  • jprocjproc Member Posts: 135
    Thx for the info.I actually was doing that and for a while it did fix the problem.However now the seatbelt light never comes on.I'll try extending the belt and see if that gets the light working again..
    I don't really care about the light working or not-issue I am concerned about is if the light malfunctioning would somehow effect the airbags from deploying in the event of an accident.
  • akroegerakroeger Member Posts: 16
    I'm in a bind! I'm leaving in 2 days for a long family trip with wife and kids. For the past year, the rear and fwd lower power outlets have been inoperative on my 1998 Sienna. In testing the last remaining operating outlet (Upper fwd) with my digital voltmeter, I blew the fuse and now it doesn't work either. And now I can't find the fuses that control these 3 outlets. It sounded like a fuse blew under the dash, but I can't find anything that looks like a fuse. Does anyone know where the fuses are and what they look like? An email would be most appreciated.

    Many thanks for any help you can provide. A long trip without 12v power could be a very long trip with the teens!

    Akroeger@cwnet.com
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    i think the fuses are under the dash on the drivers side under a black cover. the main fuses are in the engine compartment behind the battery but i doubt they control the outlets. i have the manul at home and i will chk tonight, if i remember :D
  • akroegerakroeger Member Posts: 16
    Thanks. I'll look there for the one I blew. I checked that box before blowing the fuse when looking for the fuses for the other 2 inop outlets, but they were all good. Maybe when I blew the fuse on the last one, it was one located under the hood. I noticed when driving to work this AM that the power mirrors and clock were out, so they must be on the same fuse. Many thanks.
  • akroegerakroeger Member Posts: 16
    Eureka!! I found the fuses with the help of a coworker. They're located behind the coin drawer above the driver's left knee. One 15a fuse Power Outlets controls the fwd bottom and rear outlets. One 15a cig lighter controls the fwd top outlet (lighter), clock and electric side mirrors.
  • risaacsonrisaacson Member Posts: 1
    The power outlet fuses are located on the front panel left of the steering wheel down low. If I remember correctly it is not marked, you just have to pry it open to reveal the fuses for the power outlets. The same thing happened to me - had to call the service center who told me where they were. Enjoy your trip.
  • don105don105 Member Posts: 6
    My 2003 Sienna with 11000 miles has recently developed what sounded like a pre-ignition knock. I was using regular gas at the time so I switched to several tanks of preminum. The knock or what ever is still there. It only occurs as speeds below 30 MPH with very light throttle. It also doesn't occur all the time, and is too high a frequency to be a bearing knock. Can anyone shed any light on what this might be?
  • giraffe1giraffe1 Member Posts: 2
    I purchased a 2002 Sienna XLE with 35,000 miles right away noticed engine noise when first cranked and changing out of the first gear--mechanic said it was not a concern that all sienna vans of this year did this just let it warm up but this has not helped. Now at 42,000 it began not wanting to crank. I took to shop where I bought it and it did not fail the first few times they cranked it but on another try it did fail but they could not determine the problem so they sent it to the toyota dealer and he has not been able to diagnose the problem either. It will crank but RPM's drop to zero. It fails at different times of the day and the only thing that has been different was it has been raining all the week. Could it be a moisture problem? I purchased an extended warranty but they say the diagnosis is not covered by warranty so I will pay anywhere from 75 to 200 for this. They are keeping my van, but thank goodness the place I purchased it has given me a loaner vehicle.
  • zeebrazeebra Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I am new to this forum and looking for help on how to connect the wiring harness for my Jayco popup camper. I have a 2002 Sienna Symphony. I installed the hitch already and now I am trying to find the plug on the Sienna for brake lites.
    My Jayco is 1998. I has both 6 pins male and female connectors. The male side connects to the Jayco. And the female is for the van. Does anyone know where I can tap/plug the female to? According to most people, they said the van should have a wiring harness already. I just have to plug it in. I have not been able to find it. I opened and looked both rear left and right lites, and the rear passenger side compartment. No luck.
    I found a set of wiring run along back to both rear lites. Does anyone know where I can find the conduit? Or I have to cut the wire and tap the harness? Do you know where I can get the schematic for Sienna?
    The dealerships gave me a run around for quite sometime.
    Any help will be greatly appreciated.
    Dave
  • rlee2rlee2 Member Posts: 4
    My 2003 Sienna has the same knocking noise. It only last for about 3-5seconds. It only has 19000 Km. The noise only happened at the first time start in the morning. The dealer has kept my van for a week now. They don't have the clue about it. But they think it is an engine abnormal noise. I have already complained it to Toyota customer service office. I suggested you do the same. I will keep you informed when I got back from the dealer.
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    cold metal without lubrication tends to make noise. thats what is happening when you start the vehicle in the morning. nothing to worry.
  • marine2marine2 Member Posts: 1,155
    We just spent $3300 to have our transmission replaced on our '98 Sienna

    Wow, that's as much as many charge for an engine.
  • 32valveuser32valveuser Member Posts: 31
    don105 is your engine cold or hot when this occurs?
  • freebirdfreebird Member Posts: 77
    That is about what I have heard for a dealer replacement cost.

    How many miles were on the van? What type of maintenance interval did you follow up to the failure? What type of failure did the transmission suffer?
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    i hope it was covered under the extetnded warranty.
  • giraffe1giraffe1 Member Posts: 2
    Discovered today the car was a manufacturers buy back in NY then resold to me. What options do I have in Georgia?
  • don105don105 Member Posts: 6
    Engine is fully warmed up. The noise doesn't occur when engine is cold.
  • kram72dnarkram72dnar Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Toyota Sienna with 58,000 miles. The passenger side window intermittently fails to operate. It will go up about 1/3 and then won't go down or up even with manual assist. (yanking or pushing on it). This happens no matter which switch use; driver or passenger door switch. After it rests for a little while, it will work for one or two cycles and then stop part way up or down. I don't hear the motor running when the switch is engaged.
    Has anyone had this problem and found a solution?
    Thank you!
  • jasdmwjasdmw Member Posts: 118
    I've had/am having the same problem with my '01. Can't narrow it down, but it seems to be heat related. When the car is in the sun, shining on the passenger side, the window opens fine. When closing, acts just like yours, exactly; goes up a few inches, stops, wait a minute or 2, goes up a few more inches and stops; wait a few minutes and then it closes fully. Closing of course happens after we drive off, so I'm guessing it gets cooler with the passing air. May be a loose connection to the motor that breaks the cct when hot and makes again when cooler. I've had it looked at once, but the problem isn't easy replicated. Anyone else seeing this?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    its possible the motors themselves have some form of thermal-overload protection such that they will not operate when drawing too much current (because of some obstruction) or over-heated as jasdmw mentions.
  • warren_pawarren_pa Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where the Compressor Clutch relay is located on a US model 2000 sienna? Looked everywhere. Clutch won't engage and cant find the relay to test it. Started after had the windshield replaced, coinciednt???? Please help if any one knows. thanks

    Warren_PA
  • innksinnks Member Posts: 1
    I have a Sienna 98. I am trying to recharge my A/C, my kit says I have
    to recharge from L side. I could not find out where should I connect
    my kit.

    Can you please help me.
  • paul6paul6 Member Posts: 14
    zeebra: Installed a Toyota brand harness onto my 2000LE.

    Had to remove the panel behind the car's jack to gain access to the wires, and used crimp type splicers to add the connector for the wiring harness. The harness plugs into the connector. My car did not have a connection for the harness prewired. Was time consuming to remove panels etc., but not difficult.

    I placed the connection in the jacks compartment rather than behind the panel for ease of diagnosing any problems that may arise.
  • wmkwmk Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2001 LE driver window is scratched in the same spot. Have you found out what has caused it?
  • dbfinallydbfinally Member Posts: 1
    I am also having issues with the passenger side door in my 2000 Sienna XL. The window would go down without a problem but would only inch up a bit at a time. I thought it was heat related for a while but it was happening EVERY time. Of course, it didn't start until AFTER the warranty was up and Toyota said it the motor was gone and wanted more than $400 to fix it. I took it in last week and had a local mechanic fix the motor for about half the cost. However, a week later, the window won't go up AT ALL. I took it back this afternoon and the mechanic says that it's a faulty window motor and is going to replace it AGAIN first thing tomorrow. (at no charge)

    My minivan is also having problems with batteries not staying charged. Battery died shortly after the 36,000 mile warranty coverage and ate up the alternator...had to replace the alternator at 37,000+ miles. Since then, I've had to either replace or recharge the battery 4 times. Each time, the battery lasts less and less time. (first it was 13 months, then 8 months, then ONE month and the latest was TWO WEEKS) Diagnostic tests aren't showing anything and everyone (dealer service dept AND local mechanic) are saying 'it's just the battery'. This is extremely frustrating, not knowing whether or not the vehicle will once again need to be jumped. I know this is not good for the alternator but I'm at a loss as to what else to do. The latest mechanic said that "MAYBE" the dome lights are staying on a bit too long when you close the doors. But, IMO, this can't possibly drain a brand new battery in 2 wks to a month. :(

    Anyone else having battery issues??
  • santacruz1santacruz1 Member Posts: 11
    The Low side is way back in the engine bay. I am fairly sure that most kit hoses are not long enough to reach it. I think you have to go to a dealer to get it done. Not sure if this is a design intent that ensure a dealer will get your AC charging business.
  • 32valveuser32valveuser Member Posts: 31
    don105

    Same same here only after full warm-up??? Our's is like a clatter/clunck sounds. I think it may be the valves but all I read so far is that the valves never need adjustment. The other thing it may be carbon build up. We really baby the car and it has 65,000 mile on it. Your car has only 11,000? My is due for the tune up so I will try to post back later. Hopefully it needs a good old tune.
  • mcnmcn Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Toyota Sienna sat in my driveway for two weeks while I was away. On my return, I noticed a moldy smell inside the car. I couldn't locate the source and took it to my dealer. The pad under the carpet was covered with mold. A leak in the rear side window seal was finally discovered. Has anyone else had or heard of a similar problem? This is my first time on any forum & I have not yet read everything in the Sienna Pre-2003 section. If anyone could direct me to anything they think is appropriate reading and anything I have missed, I would be very grateful.
  • njguy2njguy2 Member Posts: 1
    This is what my 02 Sienna did this morning: The engine turns over fine, it sounds like it is starting, but when I let go of the key it does not idle. It just stops, as if I had shut it off.

    But if I turn the key on and rest my foot against the gas, it will run fine, no unusual sounds or anything, just when I let go of the gas, it dies. It does not idle at all, not even close. It does not sound like a stall, it just shuts off.

    Does anyone know what's happening before I have it towed to the mechanic?
  • loucapriloucapri Member Posts: 214
    I see the same problem on my 97 Camry. But it only happens when it's hot and sunny outside. It will not keep idle or sound like it's going to shut off. I can press the gas but as soon as I let go, it will die.

    Most of the time the engine will run between 400-500 rpm (want to die range) and suddenly it will go back to normal. I am thinking it's something related to the injector or fuel system. I tried to use premium gas for a while and problem goes away (for a short time) but it's coming back. I don't know what's going on either.

    Hope someone can help us on this problem.
  • abe8abe8 Member Posts: 5
    I bought the 2002 Sienna van in August 2001, it has only 28950 miles. Today, the Check Engine sign is on. Is it a common problem ? How much it cost to fix it ?

    Thanks
    Abe
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    it could be many things, Did you tighten the gas cup properly hearring a series of clicks while doing so. try reseting the light (by disconnecting your battery making sure there ae no anti theft codes on the radio !) and if it comes on after it might be a genuine issue.
  • jprocjproc Member Posts: 135
    When ours came on it turned out to be a sensor of some type.Cost about $ 550 to replace it.
  • van123van123 Member Posts: 14
    We just got back from driving form Pa. to Colorado. Our 2002 Sienna preformed flawlessly. We averaged 23 miles/gallon on premium fuel. The van was gasping for air over some of the higher passes, but did real well.
    We put on Goodyear Assuance Triple Treads 4000 miles ago, these tire are awesome. We drove with confidence through downpours. They are quiet and grip the road through any conditions.
    We have three teenagers and all their attitudes and we all had a great time.
    Can't say enough good things about the van.
    Thanks Toyota!!
  • slevyslevy Member Posts: 5
    Hello,
    I have a really annoying problem...
    My Sienna 2000 headlight sometime work and sometimes not. The problem appears on both sides (left and right) at the same time. The low "running lights" are working fine, but the low beam lights sometimes turns off during driving and sometimes they never turn on. The high beam lights NEVER work. It seems like when the car is "cold" the low beam lights will turn on, and after driving for a while, they will switch off and stay off for the rest of the drive, which force me to drive with the low "running lights" which are very poor in their intensity and not very safe at night.
    All other lights (indicators, tail, break, reverse etc.) are working fine.
    I have checked the fuse/relay box and couldn't see any problem. I replaced the headlights fuses (15A each) and problem remains.
    Help!

    Thanks,
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i suppose i would check to see if there is a relay associated with the headlights, and make sure that it was well seated in its socket (pull it and re-insert it).

    now if you found a relay and it was well seated but the problem remained, i'd look to see if a few functions in your vehicle might use the same (identical part number) type of relay, and i'd swap the relays to see if it was the relay itself. if the swap test worked, i'd know what relay to replace and i'd see if the local car parts store had a replacement.

    if there wasn't another to perform the swap test, then i'd probably go ahead and proceed to a car parts store to- purchase a replacement and check the operation of the high/low beams.

    if none of this worked, then i'd report my work to a dealer tech, as probably it's a switch (is it on the stalk? - or does your DRLs have another switch on the dash?) that might need replacement.
  • palspals Member Posts: 1
    the inside sliding door handle button will not open the door. Is there an adjustment, the outside handle works fine,

    thanks
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