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Toyota Sienna Maintenance and Repair (2003 earlier)

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Comments

  • slevyslevy Member Posts: 5
    Thanks user777,
    Although I didn't notice any obvious reasons within the fuse/relay box, I will give the "relay swap" procedure a chance.
    Thanks!
  • carmexocarmexo Member Posts: 2
    Freebird, thanks for the information. I finally got around to take my car in to another shop. I told them about the dealer's inability to find the problem and your experience. To my pleasant surprise, the mechanic said my problem was only the sensor, which he replaced the next day and charged $136 (diagostics, parts, and labor). I came away very happy and cool (literally). Thanks.
  • slevyslevy Member Posts: 5
    Hi user777,
    Well, I tried a new relay ($70) and the problem remains...:-(
    Is there anything else I can try before taking it to the dealer and probably face a very high repair bill?
    Please help!
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    woa, that is one expensive relay! i presume you returned the relay... at least for a store credit. ;)

    if you're sure the fuses are good, and you swapped the relay...

    hmmm - i doubt very much that you lost the high/low filaments in both lamps so i'd tend to think you have a switch or loose wire issue. not sure how to diagnose that.

    is there an additional switch that controls day time running lights vs headlights?

    you might want to pose your question in the "Electrical Gremlins" forum.

    you could also call or drop by an independant specializing in imports / Toyotas, tell them that you've checked fuses and swapped the relay and the situation remains nojoy. perhaps they'd give you another idea to track down before you have to go the potentially (you don't know) expensive repair route.
  • slevyslevy Member Posts: 5
    Hi again,
    User777, I will try my luck with the "Electrical Gremlins" forum....
    Thanks for all of your help!
  • harveypenharveypen Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have had the same issue on\off with my 98 sienna my guy does not know what to do?
    Did the retturn springs work.

    Thanks in advance
    Rob
  • velobobvelobob Member Posts: 7
    Got a rattle when my driver's side window is "down"; want to remove the door panel to investigate....I would appreciate any information as to how to remove the panel, please
    thanks a bunch!!
  • ljo1ljo1 Member Posts: 1
    When our 2000 LX check engine light on, we took it to Track Auto to check the code for free. It turned out to be Air Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1). The Air Sensor itself was over $200. Because of bad design, the Bank 1, Sensor 1 was behind the exhaust manifold. In order to replace the broken part, the mechanic had to remove the exhaust manifold. He told us that the exhaust manifold was rusted and he ended up breaking the exhaust manifold. This was additional $400 for the part. The mechanic told us that it was a bad design from the Toyata. Unfortunately Air Sensor does break often. Our total bill ended up to be $750. The dealer's price was $1300.
  • smokey7smokey7 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Toyota Sienna in which the horn works intermittently. I thought it was the relay, so I replaced it and the horn worked for a while. Now, it is back to the same old problem.
  • smokey7smokey7 Member Posts: 2
    I have a similar problem on an 1998 Sienna. However, mine works intermittently. I also replaced the relay and it worked for a while. I will keep you updated on my issue.
  • peace169peace169 Member Posts: 2
    Mine 2001 Sienna had exactly the same problem this July 4 weekend. I just got it 2 weeks ago and it's been in the Garage. :cry:

    I could only keep it running with the foot on the gas. Any one had this problem before ? Do I need to take it to the dealer?

    Thanks for any info on this!
  • frank069frank069 Member Posts: 1
    I need HELP, I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna CE Minivan with over 60,000 miles. I have a perplexing problem and not sure how to diagnose or fix it. Lately, for no reason at all, the factory installed anti theft system (alarm system) sets itself off when the vehicle is parked with the engine off. The lights flash and the horn sounds, I used the remote to turn it off, this used to work, but now the alarm doesn't stay off. I changed the battery in the remote that turns it on and off, but that didn't help. Now, I don't even use the remote to lock or unlock the vehicle, I removed the battery from the remote, lock and unlock the vehicle manually, that way I don't activate the alarm. This worked for a while too. Yesterday, in the middle of the night, With the vehicle alarm off and the doors manually locked, the alarm system activates itself, the lights start flashing and the horn is making a loud racket waking up the neighbors. I quickly put the battery back in the remote, go outside and used it to shut down the alarm, but this was not a permanent solution. As soon as I let go of the button on the remote, a few seconds later the alarm re-activates itself, I had to hold down the unlock button on the remote to turn it off and keep the alarm from coming back on. The only way I could keep the alarm from activating and not disturb my neighbors in the middle of the night was to remove the negative cable from the vehicle battery. This morning, I was going to remove the fuse for the anti theft system, but I couldn't figure out which one to remove since some of these fuses also deal with other vehicle systems besides
    the anti theft system. Is there a way to reset or turn off the alarm permanently? Can someone help me with this problem?
    Thanks
  • chisdchisd Member Posts: 1
    I know this is long after the fact but I've same type of problems with my Sienna tier wear. Did you ever get any answers to what was the cause of the tire wear?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    any chance of the following: you have another FOB and it has a defective switch, or there is something impinging on the panic button (like the mrs has it in her purse and it's loaded with stuff), -or- you have a neighbor whos system activates yours?

    in other words, does your alarm ever go off somewhere besides your home?
  • 32valveuser32valveuser Member Posts: 31
    don105

    Well I got the plugs replaced and a fresh oil change. The clatter at low throttle/speed seems gone. Further driving is needed to be sure. The plugs looked normal to me for 67,000 miles if anyone is interested they are light gray no white, no oil. They did a good job at Russel in Baltimore. Price around $150.00 yes I know very high but other places wanted more like $220.00. Also, the dealer did not need to remove the air plenum. They are able to remove the back three plugs using extensions and u-joints. I also had the pads replaced. I was surprised how good the pads looked after 67,000 miles they could have gone another 10,000. I know every ones driving habits are different but thats GOOD service for such a heavy car. I always keep my cars for many years. It will be interesting to see how the car holds up for the long haul.
  • pn6pn6 Member Posts: 14
    Regarding the scratched driver window that seems to happen on a small number of cars.

    You can roll the window down so the scratched area is behind the weatherstripping. Place a putty knife or similar into the track and push it outwards a bit. If you study the moulding, you'll see there is a second strip below the part exposed to the elements that's binding the glass and causing it to scratch. I tried this very gently, and have lessened but not eliminated the problem. Will try again when I get some courage.

    You'll also find that if you pull the window in while raising and lowering that it won't scratch, but that can be dangerous if you're not careful.

    Toyota was more than useless in helping resolve this problem under warranty, and it wasn't worth the hassle of fighting.
  • reptilianreptilian Member Posts: 1
    2001 XLE w/VES; my 9 year old pushed against the drop down video screen until the frame broke. Have you tried a fix that works? (Please don't suggest, if you haven't tried it). Or...happen to know who makes the VES for Toyota. Or...have a part number for the screen frame? All my attempts meet with "install a new system." :confuse:
  • fishbonefishbone Member Posts: 1
    We had the same problem, about the same time you did. We were a few miles from home, and I really didn't want to be stranded, so I did something I might not have tried if it happened at home.

    We were in an area without too many cars, and I happened to have parked facing the road. After a couple of times starting the car and having it shut down, I decided to just gun it and see what happened. I put my foot down hard on the gas and threw it into drive - the RPMs were high enough to get it going. There was a corner about 40 feet away, and as I slowed to turn, it died again. I managed to coast around the corner to the shoulder. However, I was now facing a long, straight stretch of road. I gunned it again and got it going - after about 500 ft., I let my foot up to see what would happen, and it was fine. We've been driving it since then with no troubles.

    I have no idea what was wrong, and I know almost nothing about cars, but I wondered if there was some kind of blockage in the fuel line that got cleared out after being revved a bit.
  • mismamamismama Member Posts: 1
    I just wanted to vent about my biggest regret on this car purchase. I've had my 00 Sienna since day one and it has been nothing but trouble. I've had an rebuilt engine after three years of ownership, oil gelling and awful odor from my old and rebuilt engine, replaced three sets of tires in the past four years, transaxle problems...etc. Even with regular mainentance that I've done on this vehicle, I don't have anything good to say about my Sienna. I can't wait to retire this vehicle and give it it's proper funeral because it's worthless.
  • ktcoopktcoop Member Posts: 2
    I have had exactly the same thing with my 1998 Sienna. I had the hub bearings replaced in Janurary and they now are telling me that my Axle bearings need to be replaced (only $350.00 though). Did you have this done? Did it fix the car? My car has 87,000 miles and had the transmission replaced at 45,000 (it was under warrenty and is a known problem that Toyota has acknowledged). I am just not sure how much longer I want to keep this car and if it is worth fixing.http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/emo- torcons/emo_confused.gif
    confuse
  • posterposter Member Posts: 2
    Have a 2000 Sienna LE with 62K, had 02 sensor on the firewall side replaced a few months ago after the check engine light came on. Has been mostly trouble free otherwise.

    Check engine light came and these codes were read at the local Autozone store:

    P1150 A/F Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2 Sensor 2) (Toyota)

    P1155 A/F Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 1) (Toyota)

    P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control

    and am baffled as to what to conclude. Any assistance appreciated.
  • aprilw3067aprilw3067 Member Posts: 18
    Have you fixed your problem yet! Any advice??

    We have a 2003 Lincoln Town Car -- you have described our same anti theft alarm problem. We have had the prob for 4 years and have done what you have done.
    Now, we lock the car manually, then insert key and turn to the right. That works for a while. Our manual said tht if the driver is seated in the car or something heavy was in the drivers seat the alarm would not go off - not true. We placed two heavy bags weighing about 100 pounds - the alarm went off. It happens a lot in front of our house at 1am or 3am. Yesterday, while having breakfast in a restaurant it happened continuously disturbing everyone! We were sort glad that we were with friends so they could see what we were experiencing.

    One guy suggested we contact the purchase place and find out the model number of the factory installed anti theft system that came with the car -- where is it located in the car - and a schematic showing the anti theft system. I am going to
    call the manufacturer tomorrow and anyone and everyone to try to find out how to permanently disarm this antitheft device.

    Our first quest we were told it was a factory built installed system tied into the electronics of the car and we could not disarm it unless we locked the doors manually. That was 4 years ago.
    Yesterday afternoon, the car was parked on a flat surface parking lot in front of the motel we and friends were staying at. The alarm went off again continuosly - we sat with the lincoln manual which describes how to lock and unlock but does not troubleshoot the antitheft device when it goes berserk! During the daytime it drove everyone crazy at the motel. Finally after locking the door's manually and turning the key to the right 4 times -- the alarm stopped. NOW, WE WERE WORRIED,
    what if this thing goes off during the night when everyone WAS SLEEPING???
    We prayed and we slept in our clothes, so that we could "run out" and handle this berserk alarm - thank goodness it didn't go off! That would have been a serious problem for us with the other guests at the hotel!
    Does anyone know a fix for this? We were told because it's factory installed and integrated with the electronics of the car there is no switch to regulate or turn it off.
  • frank2005frank2005 Member Posts: 2
    I took it to the dealers,they recharged fureon with dye ,but they can't find the leak.
    they told me it's a little noisy when they turned on a/c.so the dealer wanted to replace the compressor and clutch,anyone can help? i live in toronto. thanks.
  • sienna2000sienna2000 Member Posts: 2
    My Check Engine light came on with a DTC P0125, first occurence in five yrs and 64k miles. After resetting, light comes on again after a few miles. No other codes to narrow down my search. Everything else seems ok. This code indicates that Fuel Control is permanently in Open Mode. What could cause that to happen without triggering some other code?
  • fedup4fedup4 Member Posts: 1
    here is a whammy for you. has anyone had their gearshift break off? my sienna is a1999 and this is the fourth time this has happened.i have 192000 on this vehicle and i have never had this problem with any vehicle i have owned.
  • littlefawnlittlefawn Member Posts: 1
    I have a 03 Sienna LE with 63k and the transmission just went. The dealership just has already said we were out of warranty and there is nothing they could do. How did you get Toyota to pay for your transmission at 74k?
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    IIRC the transmission warranty was for 98-01 MY vans. Better double chk.
  • jprocjproc Member Posts: 135
    What do Sludge and transmission problems have to do with each other? We have a 2000 XLE and we got letters from Toyota increasing our transmission and Engine warranties to 100k miles.I am not sure what the year limit was.
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    nothing. the sludge warranty is for 8yrs unlimited kms i think. The tranny warranty is probably the same time period but would have to double chk on it. It was primarily for the 98-01 MY vans. regular schudlued maintence is a must on these vehicles. Change the PCV valve.
  • maryw1maryw1 Member Posts: 2
    I'm having the same problem with the check engine light. Tried disconnecting the battery but the light came back on after a couple of hundred Km's. So brought it to Toyota and said it was the oxygen sensor plus the front end exhaust was rotted.
    $$$$$. Repair bill will be over 1200 dollars. They said the warranty will cover the Exhaust work(maybe) but I'll have to cover the oxygen sensor $300 dollars.P.S.
    It's a 2001 Sienna Le bought it used last year. Beginning to think I bought a lemon.
    Had to replace control arms, Steering kept binding, Two new sets of Tires.have to get the tires balanced again.
    Upset
  • ktcoopktcoop Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Sienna with 87000 miles on it and the transmission was replaced at 45,000 miles. They said at the time that their was some sludge build-up and to make sure that I had regular oil changes. There is also a funny smell when I park the car in the garage. I am concerned that this sound is from the transmission, it is constant, but it does not affect the performance of the car. It looks like these cars are still covered 8 years or 100k. I am only trying to keep this pup for another year so putting any money into it is not a plan I relish. Do I just take it back to the dealer and tell them I know about the extended warrenty for these cars (8 years 100k? is that true?) and make them fix it, especially because they replaced the first transmission at 45 K?
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    The sludge problem is unrelated to the transmission problem. The sludge warranty is for 8 years, unlimited miles. I do think you are right, that the transmission warranty is limited to 100k miles.

    Signs of sludge build up include smoke from the exhaust (which could have a smell), engine light comes on, and high oil usage. If you have any one of these, I would have it checked for sludge again. If you have it, have changed your oil reasonably, then Toyota is supposed to fix it for free. Your 8 years on the warranty is almost out, so I would want to be sure I had it taken care of soon if it is a problem.
  • don105don105 Member Posts: 6
    Has anyone heard of a fix for the "swinging sunvisor"?
  • gabesmomgabesmom Member Posts: 1
    I bought this 02 Sienna 4 months ago with 36,000 miles it now has 41,000. It started last week with a clicking noise and would not turn over. I called AAA they checked the alternator and battery and said the battery had a dead cell the alternator was fine( I thought it was strange only being 3yrs old) I took it to a battery warehouse and they said the same thing. So I bought a new battery 6 hours later I am at a red light and it stalls out and nothing no power not even a clicking sound. It was towed to my garage they said it was the alternator and replace it. Yesterday I was waiting for my husband to come out of the store. I had the engine turned off but was listening to the radio and all of the sudden it went off. I tried to start it and it just made a clicking noise. I know it was not from me listening to the radio it was only playing for 2 minutes. AAA jumped it again. Sometimes there is a lot of hesitation when I pull out in to traffic. Has anyone ever had a problem like this? So far this has not been a reliable car. Is this a common problem or did I get a :lemon: All 3 tow truck drivers and the garage have said I should not of even had to replace the battery or alternator :sick:
  • c333c333 Member Posts: 1
    Skilew,

    Thats a good question. I need an anwser to that question also related to the rear brake drums on a 1998 Sienna. Typically, a "soft" or unresponsive operation when depressing the brake pedal could mean that one of several components is worn out. Check the star (adjustment) wheel to ensure it is well lubticated. Also check the brake shoe return springs to ensure tension. Check for leaks in the wheel cylinder.

    Please let me know if you get any infomation on adjusting the rear breaks. I replaced the brake shoes, blead the system twice, ensured upon replacing the drum that it was extra snug to the brake shoes, but still no change in breaking performance.
  • coordocoordo Member Posts: 2
    Recently,my Sienna engine work bad with regular gas.No pinks but bads responses from engine.If i use premium gas,no more hesitations,good power and response.
    Does anybody have this problem?
  • wolfblackwolfblack Member Posts: 1
    I've heard of the "sludge". Is this something the collects in the oil pan or just random location in the engine's oil path?
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    It tends to "collect" in the smaller passages of the block, thereby starving areas of the engine of oil. When ya got it, it's too late.
    -Mathias
  • jkpepperjkpepper Member Posts: 1
    This is a problem with my automatic side door - I really need advice before I take this into the dealer for another go with trying to get this fixed - I was wondering if you ever fixed this problem? I have a 2000 XLE and have had this problem for the last 5 years. I need to take it in and was wondering if anyone had advice on getting this problem resolved. I have had the car in numerous times and its never completely fixed -
  • jelhz43njelhz43n Member Posts: 44
    Help ! I know that the fuse blew up when I connected my cell phone car charger to the cigarette lighter socket, I tried finding the fuse inside the fuse box on the right side of the engine but could not locate it ! :mad: :cry:
    It is 2001 model LE.

    If someone knows , can you please help me by giving the exact location and the alphabet which is there on the plastic cover??? Also I will like to know the amperage of it !

    Thanks in advance !!

    John

    PS : will like if someone posts the schematic diagram of it from the service manual ..
  • rmuscolormuscolo Member Posts: 11
    I have been having the same problem with my 2001 Sienna on and off for the past 6-8 months. When it first started it was winter so I thought it was the cold temps, after a few trys it would start up if I kept my foot on the gas & brake and put it into drive. I could go for weeks w/out a problem, then it starts again. Dealer was unable to "recreate" the problem three weeks ago when I brought it in. Problem re-occured this morning - but after starting - stalled at a traffic light, then again when I was slowing to make a turn! Of course - you don't have power steering at that point either. The Ck Engine light finally came on; so I got it restarted and drove 10 minutes to the dealer - light went off. I am currently waiting with bated breath to see if they find anything... Has anyone been given a diagnosis???
  • hoangj_nguyenhoangj_nguyen Member Posts: 5
    there are some fuse for instrutment ect.. locate behind the coil holder, Just pop out the holder and you will see it
  • 32valveuser32valveuser Member Posts: 31
    I have this same start stall problem. It will go for several weeks or more with out a problem. Let us know if they find something. It would be nice to have this fixed once in for all.
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    IIRC somesome mentioned a IAC or MAF sensor mulfunctioning. do a google on those two and you might have the issue resolved
  • jelhz43njelhz43n Member Posts: 44
    Thanks hoangj_nguyen ! In fact after posting my problem I searched in this site and there are posting about it.
    The extra fuses are located behind the coin holder near the left leg of driver's
    I checked it and yes there are some fuses , now I have to figure out which 15A fuse is blown.
    Thanks.

    John
  • peace169peace169 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem. After extensive Internet search, I think it's the IAC. See the original post for solution. I spray carb cleaner into the hole and it seems loosen up the IAC valve.
  • rmuscolormuscolo Member Posts: 11
    Just an update - Per the dealer - the need to replace an accelerator sensor?? Cost including labor is about $250...I pick it up tomorrow.. and will update with their exact diagnosis.
  • iaherkeyiaherkey Member Posts: 3
    My 98 Toyota Sienna seat belt warning light comes on after buckling the belt and goes out after unbuckling. I have check fuses under the dash and in the engine compartment. I have looked at the wiring and the spindle which houses the seat belt. Has anyone had this problem before and if so, any suggestions as to correcting it?
  • jobujobu Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1999 Toyota Sienna that came with the std 5yr/60K mile warranty. in 2003, I received a letter from Toyota in the mail stating they've been having problems with 1998-early 2000 Sienna transmissions and would extend the warranty for the powertrain to 8yrs/100K miles. At the time I'd had no problem (except for sludge which they repaired under the warranty) and just tucked this transmission letter into my car file. I recently deployed with the US Military to Germany with my family to fight the Global War on Terrorism. About three weeks ago, my van started making odd sounds and sure enough, the transmission died. I had the van towed to the local German Toyota dealer and presented my powertrain warranty extension letter. I was told that Toyota Germany would have to make a ruling on whether or not they would honor this letter from Toyota USA. While waiting, I called Toyota USA and explained my plight; i.e., I'm an American serviceman sent over to Germany by my country (not on my own accord) and explained that the defective product for which they extended the warranty had expired in my van. In good faith, I at least expected them to tell me to get it fixed here and send them the bill. Instead, I got this drivel about how many Americans are sent overseas by their companies and that we at Toyota don't take sides on any political views. So no, they would not cover their known defective product. Political views......what are you talking about???? Ray, in their customer service center, went on to explain that if I paid to have it shipped back to the states then, they would probably cover it. Hello, I'm on the front line trying to keep Ray from getting whacked by a terrorist and this is the support I get from Toyota?

    Anybody out there got any ideas on how to persuade Toyota to act in good faith?

    Slightly torqued in Germany,

    Clyde Mays
  • coordocoordo Member Posts: 2
    I found the answer by myself:it was the coil of no. 3 cyl
    Now the motor works perfectly
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