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Toyota Sienna Maintenance and Repair (2003 earlier)

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Comments

  • gunga64gunga64 Member Posts: 271
    I would bring it to Toyota and let them hear it see what they say. Without letting them know what happened.

    I think the engine might have a 60,000/5 year drive train warranty I'm not sure. You might be able to get it worked on for free at Toyota. I would not tell the tech what happened though. Also Toyota may want oil change receipts to cover warranty. Just play dumb if you need to as much as you can. Buying it used wont help you much here either.

    If Toyota says nothing wrong visually or by sound, I would still have them run pressure tests on the cylinders or some way to test the engine performance. So you have something in writing, after it is done. That way if you have to go after the Mom and Pop you have something. The cost should be very minimal, but would be well worth the test.

    As far as Mom and Pop go, I've had bad service done to me in the past as well. They never take responsiblity. They also usually win in any court case. You might need legal help to get them to pay for damage. It's basically your word against theres. Don't spend too much money going after them its a dry hole. As sad as it you may have to use them to fix it if they agree they are at fault. Bring a friend with you as a witness on what they say I guess. They are experts at denial however.

    When you stopped and saw it leaking it should have stopped you in your tracks. Also if no oil the thing should have been smoking and smelling bad for blocks. If it didn't smoke and smell it might have been short enough not to damage. Might have overheated the valve and cylinder and caused some warping to the cylinder.

    That might be the noise the scrapping of the parts. If it is this gas may get into the oil and really cause you grief. Theres a way to check oil for gas the techs know how to do this. If think if you pull the dipstick and put a match to the dip stick and it lights it has gas in it. I'm not sure though.

    Synthetic Oil may help you in the future. Who knows the engine might not be that damaged.

    Everytime someone works on your car you have to check their work. I dont care who it is. This could have just as easily been done by the dealer. Everytime I get an oil change I keep it off my pavers because undoubtfuly it will leak. Always a good idea to check under the car as well as keep an eye on the temp gauge in the car.

    One last note. My Sienna was bought new in 2001. The damn engine was always loud. You may not have noticed it before. Start up a used one at the dealership and listen for yourself. It could be the normal noise. I'm not kidding here either, my wive always complains about the noise. It is a lot noiser when the AC is on though, the reverse of yours.

    Last bit of advice:
    Trade the car in at a dealership( hopefully not the one you test it at if theres a problem) and get rid of the problem if it bugs you a lot. It would save you a lot of grief.

    By the way you got a good price on that van. If it is in decent shape.

    Good Luck
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    thanks for the kudos, but they are really undeserved. many people with door problems (make doesn't matter) find that cleaning the contacts using a pencil eraser does wonders to improve operation. i was merely passing along what others have already posted...

    edmunds is a valuable resource. pass it on. ;)
  • hqmhqmhqmhqm Member Posts: 1
    I have a Toyota 1999 Sienna van.

    I started the wipers up with heavy wet snow on the windshield, and they slowed to a stop, and then no longer work now, front and back. The washer fluid pump on the front and back windshield don't work either.

    I would suspect a fuse, but I don't have the service manual, I looked in the fusebox and didn't see anything obviously blown.

    Can someone tell me which is the fuse for the wipers in the fuse box, or if there is a circuit breaker or something to reset on the wiper motors. Since it is both motors and fluid pumps, I suspect it must be a relay or fuse someplace, but cannot figure out which one from the cryptic labels in the fuse box.

    thanks
  • gunga64gunga64 Member Posts: 271
    Theres a 20 amp wiper fuse should be in fuse box. If you cant find it call Toyota and ask.

    The motors also appear to have some kind of fuse/breaker it looks like 1/2 moon symbol. It is internal in the motors, if it burns out the motor loses connection to ground. You may have to remove a motor to get to it or look at it real good for a breaker. I doubt theres a breaker though, they always want you to buy a new part. If you can pull the motor off at least you have a shot at fixing the fuse yourself. Focus on the front wipers as the rear are useless anyway. Also call Toyota and ask if theres a breaker on the motor as well. For the most part they tell you stuff.

    I would def change the regular fuse first though. Even if it looks good.
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    One word for you: Owner's manual.
    All the fuse locations are in there.
    Good luck,
    -Mathias
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    some useful opinions all around. since you say the van has been with you only a week maybe the noise has been there from day one. we have a 00 sienna and it makes a small noise and is unnoticed by outsiders if i didnt tell them.
  • passingbypassingby Member Posts: 1
    As a professional mechanic let me add a few things.
    Agree with the others - when that oil light turns on, turn the engine off!
    As far as testing the engine for damage there are only two ways.
    1) The ear. with the eng idling in Park, rapidly accelerate the engine (briefly - don't exceed 4000rpm) - if a knocking sound becomes evident (have someone listening under the hood) you may have bearing damage.
    2) Visual inspection. A mechanic removes the oil pan and examines the engine bearings.
    Bottom line. Oil contains additives to protect the engine in case of metal to metal contact - for a short time. Hopefully your drive back to the lube place was short and you didn't accelerate hard (load the bearings). I would expect lifter noise after such an incident but it should go away in a few miles. If you suspect there is damage take it to a shop to have the bearings visually checked - there is a fair chance that any damage is limited to the bearings, which can be replaced without removing the engine. If you keep driving the damage will get wor$e.
  • jlharmony1jlharmony1 Member Posts: 1
    JBL system works great except KOA, 850 AM has noticeable distortion. All other AM stations are fine. KOA is a 50,000 watt clear channel station and should come in great. Other vehicles and radios here get KOA with no problem. Got an exchange JBL radio/tape/CD unit from local Toyota dealer, installed and same problem! I guess that there must be some kind of radio frequency interference created by the engine management system or some other RF generator in the vehicle. Anybody have similar experiences/solutions/suggestions?
    Jim in CO
  • 2k1sienna2k1sienna Member Posts: 3
    Thanks everyone for providing me with all these valuable info. I hope that that you guys were right that the noise is there and I just didn't notice it. As for leaving the car in park, it is very quiet and no noise at all, as for my CE model, there is no Tach on it. :( But yesterday, I was on the highway and did almost 90mph and the car runs fine with no problem. I only hear the noise when i am waiting at the light with my foot on the brakes and listen very carefully, thats where I here the tapping noise. I guess I'll find out tomorrow as I have to drive long distance (60 miles). I'll report back once I get back on Friday and let you guys know if my engine is still in one piece. :cry:
  • w2323w2323 Member Posts: 60
    The belts on the beast are pretty loud and could be considered a tapping noise as well. When I turn on the AC its very pronounced. Been like that since new however. How about you guys is your AC compressor kinda loud?

    AC works fine been noisey since day one for me. Even after a belt change.
  • jadakayejadakaye Member Posts: 4
    Sounds like you hit the same snag we did. My dad and I just finished popping the panel back onto my driver side door.

    Once we got to the guts of the door, we found that we can't see the motor. The wiring looks good though. So, it must be the motor itself that is dying.

    Co-workers have told me that Binswanger Glass can fix that for me for $150. It's only third-hand information at this point. So, once I find out for sure, I will post and let you know.

    NO WAY am I paying $450 for that though. I'd rather open the door when I go to the drive-through!!

    Thanks a bunch!
    JadaKaye
  • jadakayejadakaye Member Posts: 4
    I posted my reply to someone else just now. Wanted to thank you too. Saw that you have been through a lot with this thing.

    jadakaye, "Toyota Sienna Owners: Problems & Solutions (2003 earlier)" #3430, 6 Nov 2005 12:42 pm

    Seems like it must be the motor itself was the point of my message. We took the whole thing out (and may have damaged the clip that holds the set of window switches locked into place ... now it wiggles).

    So, once I contact Binswanger or some other glass repair company, I'll post and let y'all know how much.

    Pray for me!! :blush:

    Best,
    JadaKaye
  • chan2chan2 Member Posts: 2
    How can I reach back of the front bumper cover? There is a dent on the right front bumper cover and I try to push it back.
  • didgiedidgie Member Posts: 2
    I'm considering buying a used 2000 Sienna with 45,000 miles on it. I've owned other Toyotas and found them pretty reliable, but never owened the van. Can anyone tell me what to look out for and where the most common problems are with this model? Thanks for any and all info.
  • cokebear5cokebear5 Member Posts: 1
    How do I find out which OEM radios/cd players are compatible with my 2000 Sienna LE?

    My CD player quit working. I would prefer to replace it with the exact model, but I might like to install the OEM 6-disk changer (if I can find one.) I'm shopping on ebay. Any other choices?
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    just make sure all maintenance was done. especially the oil changes done at regular intervals. looks like it was city driven so even opening up the vavle cover would be good. The engine was prone to sludge if not taken care of. there isn a 8 yr unlimited warranty on the engine if it siezes due to sludge. we have one and have never had any issues with it.
  • ziennazienna Member Posts: 4
    Help! Is this a common problem does anyone know if it signifies something larger. Irecently bought a 1999 with 112K miles and the gas pedal on my 1999 XLE vibrates when I accelerate above 50-60 MPH. Any ideas or solutions please.
  • ziennazienna Member Posts: 4
    This is starting to get very annoying, are there any ideas out there. Recently the driver side sliding door on my 1999 XLE is getting caught on a latch meant to stop the door from opening fully when the gas cover is open. Any ideas please. Thanks All
  • jprocjproc Member Posts: 135
    I agree with deepan-just make sure the oil was changed. I'd also want to see that the trans fluid was changed at least once.We have a 2000 with almost 80k on it and its been very reliable
  • didgiedidgie Member Posts: 2
    We currently own a 1992 Camry and a 1998 Rav. Does the Sienna also require the timing belt change every 60,000?
  • findonefindallfindonefindall Member Posts: 1
    My wife managed to break the plastic handle on the rear door of our 01 Sienna. Seems lots of folks have too (not too surprising when you see they are just plastic) I decided that a new one would only break again, so devised a permanent fix. I put pictures on a page on our website. Have had many folks email me their thanks for this, which is fun. Here is the URL - No idea why I cannot add this as a link but it did not work.You can copy and paste into your browser (safer anyway)

    www.FindOneFindAll.com/toyota-sienna
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    the sienna has a timing belt and will require a change.
    I am not quite sure of the mileage although it should be done before the 100k mark.
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    youre crusinig and when you want more pwr you put down your foot and for a brief moment the pedal vibrates and then goes away. I've had this happen and i've seen other talk about it too. i would have to say its normal.
  • jprocjproc Member Posts: 135
    90,000 miles is when it is recommended to change it.
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    is there a time limit as well. i.e lets say the van is at 60k but its 6 yrs from the in service date.
  • jprocjproc Member Posts: 135
    I'll check the manual this weekend and let you know what it says
  • soccerfamilyssoccerfamilys Member Posts: 2
    My mechanic is baffled. He can't find any leaks, and no oil is being burned out of tailpipe. I bought this car used in February. I am religious about oil changes, but it keeps sucking it up.

    Is this the SLUDGE problem I've read about in earlier models? What can I (or my mechanic) do?

    Please help. I love my 2002 Sienna van. It is the nicest car I've ever had!

    Erin
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    It sounds like it could be the sludge problem, but the only way to really tell is to have your mechanic pull the valve cover. Signs of sludge include smoke in the exhaust, apparent rapid use of oil, check engine light is on, and sometimes you can actually see it in clumps on the dipstick when you check your oil.

    If it is sludge, you may be lucky because there is an 8 year unlimited mile warranty to cover a free repair, including cost of a rental/loaner car. I don't want to get your hopes up too much, though, because some 2002's aren't covered (those manufactured later in the year, check with Toyota for the VINs) and also, you will need to prove that the car has been reasonably maintained. Hopefully you got the maintenance records or can get them from the previous owner.
  • nathanmnathanm Member Posts: 8
    I have a 98 Sienna XLE the temperature controls on the heater does not want to work from time to time it will blow cold air on hot or cold setting than it will just start working I NEED HELP THIS IS MY WIFES VAN AND SHE DOESNT LIKE TO BE COLD!!!
  • sienna99bluesienna99blue Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have the same problem on the driver side. Did you fix it? If you did, how? Thanks.
  • georgeepageorgeepa Member Posts: 5
    I have the 70K warranty on my 02 with the piston slap. My bet is the problem will finally fully blossom at 71K. LOL. That is why I made the service advisor note the noise on the paperwork. If this leads to blow-by or other things that could result in a major repair I want Toyota to cover it.
  • asdf5asdf5 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Sienna and my power door is not working after changing the battery. It was working prior to changing the battery. I've cleaned the contacts with an eraser and also tried disconnecting the new battery for 1 minute to clear the computer. (I've done this twice, once with the door open and once with the door closed during the minute of being disconnected.) I also was careful not to "chatter" the positive cable while reconnecting it to the battery. Should I wait longer or are there any special tricks? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • jellodogjellodog Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with the same make/model - 98 Sienna! I'm wondering if the problem was the sun/moonrool drainage, or if it turned out to be something else. Did you ever get it fixed? Thanks for any input you might have.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    water in the front footwells can be indicative of a clogged Air Conditioner Evaporator Pan. you can turn on your AC (providing it isn't really cold outside), and see if condensate is leaving the vehicle from the hose going from the pan through the firewall and out onto the pavement.

    if you don't see water hitting the pavement (with the car running AC on, in park with emerg brake on) as you look under the vehicle from the side near the front passenger wheel area - that's probably the cause of the water.

    you may see water dripping into the footwell area when making turns and some vehicles make a hissing sound, sort of like water hitting a hot frying pan, when the drain clogs, and the evaporator coils come in contact with the water in an over-flowing evaporator pan.

    if this isn't your issue, and you suspect a moon-roof or sun-roof leak, ask a service tech (dealer or independant) where the drain channels / lines are located. maybe then you could take a sports bottle filled with water and pour it into the channels to see if they are blocked.

    i would also visually inspect the door rubber molding all around the sides and bottom of each door.

    any rust / holes in the wheel well area?

    if the water is in the back, do you have a bad seal on the hatch door, or debris in the channel / hatch hinge area?

    i guess these are some of the things that come to mind that i'd investigate a bit. good luck.
  • tjnaplestjnaples Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Sienna and my power door is not working after changing the battery. It was working prior to changing the battery. I've cleaned the contacts with an eraser and also tried disconnecting the new battery for 1 minute to clear the computer. (I've done this twice, once with the door open and once with the door closed during the minute of being disconnected.) Should I wait longer or are there any special tricks? Any suggestions would be appreciated. The driver side works ok. The passenger side opens but will not close. The PWR DOOR dash light stays on along with the BRAKE light. I just found this forum tonight so please forgive me for asking this ? again. E-mail me with the responce also if you can. Thanks, TJ
  • techman2512techman2512 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 XLE and it seems to provid poor heat output in the front passenger side and no heat for the rear heating system. This is with the rear heat controls on full hot. Even front drivers side is slow to heat, but it eventually gets there. Any ideas??
  • jonothanwjonothanw Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 Toyota Sienna with CA emissions.

    When the millage reached ~55K the check engine light came on and the error codes read P1130 and P1135. After much investigating I determined the following facts:

    P1130, P1135
    1) This is the error code for Bank 1 Sensor 1 which is located in the exhaust manifold in the back near the fire wall (tough to repair yourself).

    2) Because I have a car with CA emissions (living in MA) my sensors are Air-Fuel ($375 ea) rather than the affordable O2 found on all federal emission cars. Never buy a CA emissions car unless you live in CA!

    3) No aftermarket sensor exists for this car, so I am stuck paying a hefty price tag.

    4) This is such a big problem that a class action suit was settled which will cover all the costs of the repair on a CA emission car. It appears that this only applies to people living in CA. Is this true?

    This all happened about 2 months ago and after some discussions with my dealer (and the fact that I was looking to buy a second car). The dealer decided to comp my repair. This made me happy as it saved me some bucks.

    A happy ending to my story, right? No...

    At ~59K miles my check engine light came back on and the engine started running a little rough. I took it in to AutoZone and they read the codes for me. P1150, P1155 Bank 2 Sensor 1. I can only assume this is the Air-Fuel sensor that is mounted in the exhaust manifold in the front of the engine (between engine and radiator).

    Since I am not sure I have any more leverage to get another comp repair I am looking to get some more information about if I am covered by the class action law suit?

    --Jonothan
  • aclarke3aclarke3 Member Posts: 12
    I do not have all of the technical specifics yet but driving home Christmas night in a downpour we heard a loud thump underneath our 2002 Sienna followed by another thump a few minutes later. We assumed that we had hit debris in the road. The next day we discovered that the van had developed a power sucking, gas guzzling exhaust leak up near the engine. I figured the supposed debris we hit had punctured an exhaust pipe and we took the van to a local repair center to get it checked out. This is where I do not have the specifics but from what I can tell they found out that the bolts holding the catalytic converter to the exhaust pipe had both broken off and the converter is sliding up and down the sleave allowing air to leak. Since our van has only 45,000 miles and this is so unusual our repair center suggested that we should take it back to the dealer. I will take it in next week but wondered if anyone has heard of this problem and if there is a bulletin out on it.

    Thanks Clarke
  • paul6paul6 Member Posts: 14
    I''m also in Massachusetts with exactly the same failing sensor problem, however I wasn't as lucky as you and paid to have the first sensor replaced. Also as you do, I need to replace the front sensor. Our 2000LE is from Wellesley Toyota, where service has been OK but less than ideal.

    Please let me know if you find a good solution. This is an expensive repair every 60K. There's a third sensor in the system as well; expecting it to fail soon.
  • hipstrahipstra Member Posts: 4
    I went to the Toyota Dealer to replace/purchase my original factory battery. The Toyota replacement battery had a collar around the top, so the original battery factory shroud would not fit and had to be discarded. The battery did not have the "green eye" either.

    Why can't I find an exact replacement for the 2000 Sienna?
  • mhellerstmhellerst Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Sienna with 80K miles. Just a couple of days ago I noticed the noise that you're describing - a whirring noise as the transmssion is shifting when the engine is cold. Has anyone just left it alone? If so, did further problems develop? Also, might some of the fuel system cleaners at the auto parts store make any kind of difference? Thank you!
  • aclarke3aclarke3 Member Posts: 12
    Follow up to my post. Pretty strange but the assembly, including bolts, etc., that holds the catalytic converter in place was rusted out. Parts have been ordered and it will be covered under warranty for this 2002 Sienna with 45000 miles.

    Clarke
  • crissmancrissman Member Posts: 145
    A friend of mine was asking whether the timing belt needs to be changed in his 1998 Sienna. It now has 92,000 miles. I was not sure whether it used a chain or a belt. Thanks for any help.
  • jprocjproc Member Posts: 135
    The Manual recommends replacing it at 90,000 miles
  • densmedensme Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for your artical. I also have a 98 Sienna and am having a bottoming out problem too. Did your fix work?
    I also had problems with my front brakes and had a dealer brake job within the first 25K miles. What have you done about this problem...

    Thanks, Denny
  • jojjoj Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 Sienna that I am going to be trading in. I was looking at a Honda Pilot and when the sales guy saw my Sienna he said it was too bad that I wouldn't get much trade in on it because of the "sludge problem". Well, guess what, mine had the sludge problem but I am wondering if that is in any public records (like on CarFax) where it can be seen by anyone? Anyone know? I also was thinking about the Highlander but I am pretty sure that Toyota could run my VIN and figure out that my Sienna had sludge. I had the free warranty repair but I don't think they replaced the engine. That is part of the reason I want something new now cuz I worry about the Sienna getting sludged again.

    Also, I am pretty sure that the sludge is a thing of the past and newer Toyota models aren't facing it -- true?
  • paul6paul6 Member Posts: 14
    Could someone post instructions on how to change a dash bulb; specifically the one on the left side of the cluster by the temp gauge. Thanks.
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    The Honda dealer is just trying to slam you on resale value. I don't think that sort of info turns up on CarFax either. You can always get more money by selling your van out right and if you trade it, they are going to try to pay as little as possible, or raise the sales price on the car you are buying. Wouldn't it be something if Toyota devalued your van based on the sludge problem!

    Also, turn this in to a positive, your engine has two more years on the sludge warranty. Not many 6 year old vans have that!
  • jojjoj Member Posts: 6
    Also, turn this in to a positive, your engine has two more years on the sludge warranty. Not many 6 year old vans have that!

    It is not much of a postive for me. I am not sure Toyota would fix it again if I get sludge. I am pretty sure they said it was a one time deal. But thanks for your advice.
  • jenchap418jenchap418 Member Posts: 1
    :cry: I own a 2002 Sienna Symphony that I bought used in 2003. When the van had approximately 26,000 miles on it I noticed the carpet was soaking wet and there were puddles in various places, and it had a moldy/mildewy smell to it. I took it to the dealership because it was still under warranty. After a week in the repair shop and $4000 worth of work--out of Toyota's pocket--they decided that a drain plug was put in the wrong place and they "fixed" the problem. Now, my van has 49,000 miles on it and the carpet is getting wet again. Since it is not under warranty, I am guessing I should trade it, unless someone has an idea of what it could be. Other than this issue, the van is perfect and I couldn't ask for anything better.
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