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I think the engine might have a 60,000/5 year drive train warranty I'm not sure. You might be able to get it worked on for free at Toyota. I would not tell the tech what happened though. Also Toyota may want oil change receipts to cover warranty. Just play dumb if you need to as much as you can. Buying it used wont help you much here either.
If Toyota says nothing wrong visually or by sound, I would still have them run pressure tests on the cylinders or some way to test the engine performance. So you have something in writing, after it is done. That way if you have to go after the Mom and Pop you have something. The cost should be very minimal, but would be well worth the test.
As far as Mom and Pop go, I've had bad service done to me in the past as well. They never take responsiblity. They also usually win in any court case. You might need legal help to get them to pay for damage. It's basically your word against theres. Don't spend too much money going after them its a dry hole. As sad as it you may have to use them to fix it if they agree they are at fault. Bring a friend with you as a witness on what they say I guess. They are experts at denial however.
When you stopped and saw it leaking it should have stopped you in your tracks. Also if no oil the thing should have been smoking and smelling bad for blocks. If it didn't smoke and smell it might have been short enough not to damage. Might have overheated the valve and cylinder and caused some warping to the cylinder.
That might be the noise the scrapping of the parts. If it is this gas may get into the oil and really cause you grief. Theres a way to check oil for gas the techs know how to do this. If think if you pull the dipstick and put a match to the dip stick and it lights it has gas in it. I'm not sure though.
Synthetic Oil may help you in the future. Who knows the engine might not be that damaged.
Everytime someone works on your car you have to check their work. I dont care who it is. This could have just as easily been done by the dealer. Everytime I get an oil change I keep it off my pavers because undoubtfuly it will leak. Always a good idea to check under the car as well as keep an eye on the temp gauge in the car.
One last note. My Sienna was bought new in 2001. The damn engine was always loud. You may not have noticed it before. Start up a used one at the dealership and listen for yourself. It could be the normal noise. I'm not kidding here either, my wive always complains about the noise. It is a lot noiser when the AC is on though, the reverse of yours.
Last bit of advice:
Trade the car in at a dealership( hopefully not the one you test it at if theres a problem) and get rid of the problem if it bugs you a lot. It would save you a lot of grief.
By the way you got a good price on that van. If it is in decent shape.
Good Luck
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I started the wipers up with heavy wet snow on the windshield, and they slowed to a stop, and then no longer work now, front and back. The washer fluid pump on the front and back windshield don't work either.
I would suspect a fuse, but I don't have the service manual, I looked in the fusebox and didn't see anything obviously blown.
Can someone tell me which is the fuse for the wipers in the fuse box, or if there is a circuit breaker or something to reset on the wiper motors. Since it is both motors and fluid pumps, I suspect it must be a relay or fuse someplace, but cannot figure out which one from the cryptic labels in the fuse box.
thanks
The motors also appear to have some kind of fuse/breaker it looks like 1/2 moon symbol. It is internal in the motors, if it burns out the motor loses connection to ground. You may have to remove a motor to get to it or look at it real good for a breaker. I doubt theres a breaker though, they always want you to buy a new part. If you can pull the motor off at least you have a shot at fixing the fuse yourself. Focus on the front wipers as the rear are useless anyway. Also call Toyota and ask if theres a breaker on the motor as well. For the most part they tell you stuff.
I would def change the regular fuse first though. Even if it looks good.
All the fuse locations are in there.
Good luck,
-Mathias
Agree with the others - when that oil light turns on, turn the engine off!
As far as testing the engine for damage there are only two ways.
1) The ear. with the eng idling in Park, rapidly accelerate the engine (briefly - don't exceed 4000rpm) - if a knocking sound becomes evident (have someone listening under the hood) you may have bearing damage.
2) Visual inspection. A mechanic removes the oil pan and examines the engine bearings.
Bottom line. Oil contains additives to protect the engine in case of metal to metal contact - for a short time. Hopefully your drive back to the lube place was short and you didn't accelerate hard (load the bearings). I would expect lifter noise after such an incident but it should go away in a few miles. If you suspect there is damage take it to a shop to have the bearings visually checked - there is a fair chance that any damage is limited to the bearings, which can be replaced without removing the engine. If you keep driving the damage will get wor$e.
Jim in CO
AC works fine been noisey since day one for me. Even after a belt change.
Once we got to the guts of the door, we found that we can't see the motor. The wiring looks good though. So, it must be the motor itself that is dying.
Co-workers have told me that Binswanger Glass can fix that for me for $150. It's only third-hand information at this point. So, once I find out for sure, I will post and let you know.
NO WAY am I paying $450 for that though. I'd rather open the door when I go to the drive-through!!
Thanks a bunch!
JadaKaye
jadakaye, "Toyota Sienna Owners: Problems & Solutions (2003 earlier)" #3430, 6 Nov 2005 12:42 pm
Seems like it must be the motor itself was the point of my message. We took the whole thing out (and may have damaged the clip that holds the set of window switches locked into place ... now it wiggles).
So, once I contact Binswanger or some other glass repair company, I'll post and let y'all know how much.
Pray for me!!
Best,
JadaKaye
My CD player quit working. I would prefer to replace it with the exact model, but I might like to install the OEM 6-disk changer (if I can find one.) I'm shopping on ebay. Any other choices?
www.FindOneFindAll.com/toyota-sienna
I am not quite sure of the mileage although it should be done before the 100k mark.
Is this the SLUDGE problem I've read about in earlier models? What can I (or my mechanic) do?
Please help. I love my 2002 Sienna van. It is the nicest car I've ever had!
Erin
If it is sludge, you may be lucky because there is an 8 year unlimited mile warranty to cover a free repair, including cost of a rental/loaner car. I don't want to get your hopes up too much, though, because some 2002's aren't covered (those manufactured later in the year, check with Toyota for the VINs) and also, you will need to prove that the car has been reasonably maintained. Hopefully you got the maintenance records or can get them from the previous owner.
I have the same problem on the driver side. Did you fix it? If you did, how? Thanks.
if you don't see water hitting the pavement (with the car running AC on, in park with emerg brake on) as you look under the vehicle from the side near the front passenger wheel area - that's probably the cause of the water.
you may see water dripping into the footwell area when making turns and some vehicles make a hissing sound, sort of like water hitting a hot frying pan, when the drain clogs, and the evaporator coils come in contact with the water in an over-flowing evaporator pan.
if this isn't your issue, and you suspect a moon-roof or sun-roof leak, ask a service tech (dealer or independant) where the drain channels / lines are located. maybe then you could take a sports bottle filled with water and pour it into the channels to see if they are blocked.
i would also visually inspect the door rubber molding all around the sides and bottom of each door.
any rust / holes in the wheel well area?
if the water is in the back, do you have a bad seal on the hatch door, or debris in the channel / hatch hinge area?
i guess these are some of the things that come to mind that i'd investigate a bit. good luck.
When the millage reached ~55K the check engine light came on and the error codes read P1130 and P1135. After much investigating I determined the following facts:
P1130, P1135
1) This is the error code for Bank 1 Sensor 1 which is located in the exhaust manifold in the back near the fire wall (tough to repair yourself).
2) Because I have a car with CA emissions (living in MA) my sensors are Air-Fuel ($375 ea) rather than the affordable O2 found on all federal emission cars. Never buy a CA emissions car unless you live in CA!
3) No aftermarket sensor exists for this car, so I am stuck paying a hefty price tag.
4) This is such a big problem that a class action suit was settled which will cover all the costs of the repair on a CA emission car. It appears that this only applies to people living in CA. Is this true?
This all happened about 2 months ago and after some discussions with my dealer (and the fact that I was looking to buy a second car). The dealer decided to comp my repair. This made me happy as it saved me some bucks.
A happy ending to my story, right? No...
At ~59K miles my check engine light came back on and the engine started running a little rough. I took it in to AutoZone and they read the codes for me. P1150, P1155 Bank 2 Sensor 1. I can only assume this is the Air-Fuel sensor that is mounted in the exhaust manifold in the front of the engine (between engine and radiator).
Since I am not sure I have any more leverage to get another comp repair I am looking to get some more information about if I am covered by the class action law suit?
--Jonothan
Thanks Clarke
Please let me know if you find a good solution. This is an expensive repair every 60K. There's a third sensor in the system as well; expecting it to fail soon.
Why can't I find an exact replacement for the 2000 Sienna?
Clarke
I also had problems with my front brakes and had a dealer brake job within the first 25K miles. What have you done about this problem...
Thanks, Denny
Also, I am pretty sure that the sludge is a thing of the past and newer Toyota models aren't facing it -- true?
Also, turn this in to a positive, your engine has two more years on the sludge warranty. Not many 6 year old vans have that!
It is not much of a postive for me. I am not sure Toyota would fix it again if I get sludge. I am pretty sure they said it was a one time deal. But thanks for your advice.