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The airbox is attached with rubber gussets. There are no screws. All you have to do is give it a good tug and it comes right off. The "louvered plastic wheel house panel" is just the fender liner. You'll have to remove some screws to take it off, and you might have to remove the tire, too.
Usually I hear the fuel pump after I turn the key to ready to start position but not anymore.
Plaese help,
Hain
Thanks,
kei
Check your fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, and fuel injectors. How does the engine idle and drive? Any stumbling or stalling? Any knocking or pinging? Seems like you might've picked up one that the previous owner insisted on running low grade gas. (Or you might be running low grade gas.)
My recent stint is the car was misfiring the other day when I started it up before work. I drove in the driveway and the check engine light was blinking (which manual says is pulgs because it was blinking, not steady on). So last night I changed all since plugs with OE Champion plugs. When I started the car, it was doing the same, I looked under the hood and could see an Arch in the plug housing. So I had that replaced, it appeared to have a very minimal crack.
Now, this morning on my way to work(and last night), the car seemed fine. Until I got to stop-an-go traffic and the car seems to misfire again once I am in DRIVE at a complete stop. Then I can accelerate again and its fine. When I parked my car this morning, sitting in park is no problem. I did read it could take 30-60 miles for the car's brain to re-level and adjust to the changes, is this the case?? Any one have any comments??? Thanks
Thanks in advance for any help.
ts
Firstly, I would get the original copy of the service order if u don't already have it.
Look it over to determine what was written, if u are happy that he/she listened well and wrote in your notes, then it is not your error.
Secondly, if you have not already asked for a copy of the work order, try and get the copy. If you have had an oral discussion with them, then you may want to be a little discreet in trying to get a copy. This is to show proof of your request, not their recommendation.
Thirdly, verify that $520.00 includes the 30000 mi. service and an itemization of all the services. Battery service and tire rotation is not too costly, especially when they're new.
Finally, I would began my deduction from the list of itemization and start with a letter to the service manager to get a credit or refund, if you are not satisfied, work your way to the top, also mention in your letters that you are considering contacting ivestigative news or Micheal Moore (the movie SICKO) to have them put in his new movie.
Hopefully all can be helpful.
As soon as the check engine light comes on, take your car to the nearest auto parts store and ask to borrow a handheld diagnostic unit, get assistance, or purchase one. Auto Zones have been good with this assistance. Once the unit is plugged into the port, the unit will give the diagnostic code, then look the code up in handheld unit's manual or the parts store computer. You maybe able to replace a part yourself if it is not too major.
I work for a car company and 1 of the guys had a device to pull the code for me it ended up being the cam shaft sensor went to the dealer picked one up installed in about hour been working since $57 and change
ts
The girlfriend's parents have a 2001 300M w/ 45000 miles, and thats all I know about it. They will sell it to him for $10000. Don't know where he thinks he's getting the cash (he has a few thou put away)... but wondering if it's a good buy at any price. We wanted to wait until his first semester of college was done, about a year, and then if he did well, we'd help him to upgrade to a better car.
I had a concorde in the 90's w/ a/c problems and I think a leaky head gasket or something that leaked oil on the top (not a lot). Had a Caravan after that for about 6 years, under 50k that also seemed to be losing it's a/c. I got rid of it when the extended warranty was running out.
Chrysler had been notorious for a/c and trans problems (with the cars I had). How does the 300M stack up? Will it need new a/c soon (it is 7 years old-low miles or not)??
Son looks for the "cool" factor, so something about this car must be hot....
Thanks
As for price, I looked at our bank black book pricing and retail clean is $10300 and average 8200. That is the price off a dealer lot so personally 10K seems pretty high to me for that old of a vehicle from a private party which normally they could get in the 7-8k range. The good news is he should be able to trust them but bad news is how does he "deal" a lower price with them like you would a guy off the street. And of course you have the "what happens if something goes wrong a month later" factor....I sold my used chevy years ago to my brother and a month later the clutch went out. Luckily my brother knows stuff well enough to fix it himself but I still feel bad about it 20 years later, I had no clue there was anything wrong. For sure despite the trust I'd still have a mechanic check it out and try to feel out negotiating it for less.
Your car is an '04 which makes it a bit newer to compare for problems.
Thanks for the input!
Mike Shilko
Thx,
Mike Shilko
i also have a 99 300M,
mby battery just died out on me this eve, i couldnt figure out why, i jumped it and it ran for like 2 mins and the engine dies out while i'm moving, i was just happy I hadn't hit the high way.
a friend who helped me jump start suggested i'm having a problem with the dynamo, i guess like crdivoff mentioned it may be called other wise.
from what i've heard from others, a dynamo replacemet makes a huge hole in the pocket.
i'm gonna be taking it to the garage cause the company is a rip off..! nothin new..
well a reason for the battery to die out is because my tail lights dont go out sometimes and if i dont check it, it takes a toll on the battery.
however, 2 things that i need to know, is a dynamo / generator a possible problem? or is it the battery?
and should i get the wiriing checked?
let me know how did you solve the ac fan issue
I reset the AC through a certain combination of buttons together but useless someone have post before that a blower motor power module which located on the lower right side of the HVAC unit housing and is controlled by the Body Control Module (BCM). It could have failed on so the fan runs full speed whenever power is on.
But any idea where HVAC unit or BCM exactly are? And how they look like???
I had to finally take it to a mechanic since my attempts at fixing it were futile. He replaced what he called a "Fan Control Module," those were his words for it since I could not verfy that name anywhere. The FCM apparently has a "resistor" in it that burned out (open). When that happens, one can not turn the fan off or control the fan speed, although every thing else works. In any case, that fixed the problem. That module took six months to get because Chrysler's supplier for that FCM no longer made them so I had to wait on Chrysler to get a new supplier. The cost for the module itself was about $190.
I had to finally take it to a mechanic since my attempts at fixing it were futile. He replaced what he called a "Fan Control Module," those were his words for it since I could not verfy that name anywhere. The FCM apparently has a "resistor" in it that burned out (open). When that happens, one can not turn the fan off or control the fan speed, although every thing else works. In any case, that fixed the problem. That module took six months to get because Chrysler's supplier for that FCM no longer made them so I had to wait on Chrysler to get a new supplier. The cost for the module itself was about $190.