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Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
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Visit: DC TechAuthority site:
try here and select category owner's manual
2002 Owner's Manual $20.00
I've had this really unusual problem where, as I drive, the radio and dashboard lights start going ON/OFF and, after a few seconds ABS & Batt indicators come on, and stay on until I re-start the car. Then (usually) everything is fine. This problem is intermittent and the Chrysler certified repair shop could never repeat the problem - until today.
Now they are telling me that there is a short in some junction box and that the "cluster" needs to be replaced. This is a 3000$ job!!!
Is this problem common (or expected?) on the 300M? How could I have prevented it? At 36,000 miles, am I still under warranty for this type of failure?
Thanks for any inputs you may have.
Marc
If I remember correctly, and please folks confirm this, if it is severe the Body Control Module might be the culprit? Nowhere near $3k, maybe a couple hundred bucks or less I think...?
The '99M only had a 3/36 warranty, not sure about a 2000.
Still lurking...
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
I suspect that a 2000 Chrysler has only 3/36 warranty which is what my 2001 Jeep had before I bought a 5/70 extended warranty which just expired. The 2002-05's had 7/70 and I understand some, not all 2006 have a lesser warranty again.
I just drove by our dealer lot on the way to work yesterday and there about 10 new style 300s on the lot. They are either not selling or they were forced to buy RWD models which despite our mild winter in the upper midwest are not a good deal here; I suspect AWD models do better. I still see many 300Ms around town and at a recent oil change in the waiting room a sales rep was lamenting why 300s are not ALL standard as AWD models.
Oh well, the 300M still is the looker (however for a macho car, I really like the new Dodge Charger, it just looks tough).
Why are they charging you =anything= when it's still under warranty? Be sure to take it to a 5 star Chrysler dealer, they should not be charging you to diagnose these problems (or I would contact your regional Chrysler rep). And write it all down, symptoms, date/times, external conditions etc. Keep us posted. DNaatz in Rochester MN
http://public.fotki.com/Scotian/300m/lighting/headlight_switch/
Any input is appreciated.
No, this is not common for the 300M (or any LH car) that I know of. Pretty much every common problem with the 300M is posted here and that isn't one of them. Luckily for us all, the 300M has very few problems at all.
It has been a very good car for me (we love how it looks and how it handles)and we have had very few problems with it.
BUT ------- FYI
We had an issue where the interior lights would remain ON after you shut the car off. The dealership where we purchased the auto told us they needed to remove the dash and replace some $400.00 something or other.
Wanting a second opinion we took the auto to a different dealership and for $40.00 he fixed the problem which was:
A wire that fed the overhead inside light located above the rear door was shorting to the auto frame, the wire was taped and the problem was solved.
We do need some help!
#1]
We have been experiencing a problem with the auto alarm system. When the car is locked and left alone everything seems normal, then maybe hours later without any warning at all the alarm system "goes off" with the lights flashing and horn blowing.
Does anyone have a solution for this problem?
#2]
Our car is now experiencing sluggish starting.
When it is cold it starts perfectly, when it is started again after it has warmed up it sometimes wants to "crank" for a time before it starts.
Does anyone have a solution for this problem?
Both headlights worked fine before the battery/battery clamp replacement and I have never heard of both lights burining out at the same time. Any suggestions??
Now, I have to take a look at my power windows, three of four dont work....they've been replaced by the dealer during the warranty period, but now I gotta pay....Thanks for the help...
Can anyone direct me to a step-by-step instruction guide on how to take off the front end plastic cover and them remove and replace the headlight units? And is there anything I need to know about inserting the new bulbs other than not to touch the glass with my fingers?
The now six year old car has been a near-flawless performer. No significant or major problems other than replacing three driver/passenger electric window motors.
Thank you.
I'm still looking for a do-it-yourself guide to removal and replacement now that I have the new OEM headlights. Interestingly, the dealer cost was just shy of $900. including headlights, bulbs and installation.
I now have 120,000+ miles on the car and it is still a great performer.
Brethorton
Brethorton
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
After my 2000 Intrepid ES was stolen for Christmas, I went ahead and purchased a '99 300m--luv the car! Even at 85k, it's really fun to drive, looks great, and seemingly has no major issues .
I was primarily checking you all out because the one exterior flaw to my almond joy is that blasted oxidation issues with only one headlight. (I read this entire sub-forum, and printed out the step-by-steps to sanding...) And although the given methods sounds like a winner, I'd really rather not do it; but paying $800 for a new one isn't fiscally an option for me. So there was a member who found someone ho just does this sort of thing for about $30? How did you find him? I'm in the DC/MD area, but would gladly pay someone to do it for me.
Other surprises that I discovered after my haste to buy a vehicle...
--all of my front speakers don't work, and my infinity tweeters have nothing in them.
--no mats at all, be it driver, passenger, or rear.
--no spare tire or donut.
--no trunk net, and with such a large trunk, groceries play hid and seek with me.
--ever now and then, my rear/brake lights will not go out. Initially, I thought I had some electrical problem, as my car needed a jump on two out of the eleven days that I've had the car. But, by accident, I discovered that it was the brake lights, and if I remember to physically lift it with my foot, I wont have the issue.
So, any ideas? Specifically, how to go about finding someone to do my headlight, how to find the trunk net (it is supposed to have one, right?), whether I should try to find stock mats--or settle for after market cheap counterparts, and what I should do, if anything, about my brake-light situation.
Thanks in advance, this forum is really informative. And I luv this car! :shades: