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Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Sends to be working fine. I probably saved $400. BTW the shaft of one fan was getting loose in the unit and it was hitting the shroud some. Hope this helps someone. Roger
Yes, old-timers still lurking here, I still miss my M. But dig my TL just as much!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Desperate in Puyallup, WA :confuse:
The problem was a bad switch in the truck door, the switch was diagnosed and replaced by Superstition Springs Chrysler in Mesa, AZ and it seems to be working perfectly again.
We found the problem with the slow starting
The fuel pump and the associated fuel pressure regulator/valve which is located in the fuel tank went bad.
This was confirmed by a very good fuel injection outfit (not the dealer). This again was replaced by Superstition Springs Chrysler and the car starts like it used to and runs well again.
Any Ideas ?
THANKS AGAIN~!
vas002
">99 M has 31K and a new tranny.
Just wanted to let you know of a problem we had :sick: My 300 would only blow cool air. Well, we vaccumed it down recharged it, still the same.Oh! The first time we added freon.Anyway, we went got the gauges etc to do the more extesive work.Well, when the vaccuming & recharing didnot work, my husband got to thinking about the hot water line not closing.Long story short, he put the air on bilevel, floor & vents , we had cold air for the top & warm for the bottom. I did this a couple of time moving the temp up & down getting the dampers? to close & it worked. We've got ice cold air now. I hope that this can help someone not blow alot of money or have a hard time like we did.
Donny&Patti
Fuel filter?
Fuel pump?
Air filter?
When cranking cold my car will not start immediately. It will try to crank for approx 3-5 seconds then it will fire up but run “rough” for another 3-5 seconds then smooth out and runs fine after that, good acceleration, etc. It always has a funny gas like smell from the exhaust when it does this as well. If I turn the car off and try to recrank it will fire up immediately .so it seems to be a cold start problem only. My mechanic of 25 plus years cannot figure out what is going on here. He has cleaned the injectors which he originally thought was the problem and checked everything else under the sun, fuel pressure, fuel pump, etc etc. all to no avail. He said whatever the problem it is not serious enough to trigger the “check engine light” so therefore the car’s computer is not sending out any codes. He said he could think of several things that it “might” be but they were all too expensive to be a “trial and error approach” to fixing the car. To date the car has never left me stranded although I am concerned this will eventually happen. It is quite embarrassing when in the parking lot and everyone is looking at you cause your motor is turning over for 5 seconds prior to finally firing up. I would be most appreciative if someone could give me an idea as to what is going on here. My car still only has 56000 miles on it and is paid for so I don’t want to start over with a new car for a while but my wife is adamant about getting this fixed. I don’t blame her. Can anyone help me?
I have been having a recurring problem with my 99 300M that the tires keep losing pressure (this happens on all 4 wheels and I have to add air several times a week). I have been told by several local tire places that it is because of the aluminum wheels - here in snow country, the salt on the roads get into the wheels and corrode them, causing the seal between the wheels and the tires to break causing leaks. And at $40 each time I need to have the tires taken off, wheels scrubbed down to remove the corrossion, and then the tires put back on, it's costing me a fortune.
The guy at my local tire place of choice said that they get 6 to 10 cars a DAY with this problem. He was pretty adamant that car companies shouldn't be selling aluminum wheels in New England, but they do anyway.
Apparently, Chrysler doesn't make a steel wheel for the 99 300M. And the after-market wheels are about $100 each (the cheapest price I've found was $84 each) which is *way* out of my price range.
I'd like to pick up four steel wheels from the junkyard, but they won't be ones made for the 300M.
The tire place says they can use virtually any steel wheel as long as it has a 5-by-4 lug configuration (5 lugs 4 inches apart), but I wondered if anyone here could save me some time and give me some pointers to other car models that would have compatible wheels that I'd be likely to be able to get at a bone yard? I'd actually prefer 16-inch wheels (it has 17-inch now but the tire place said 16 would work just fine too) because of the savings in gas mileage from the smaller tire.
And no - I don't care that I'll be losing the fancy rims, or that the car won't be as attractive as it is now. I LOVE the look of my 300M as-is, but frankly having a safe and reliable vehicle is much more important to me than having a pretty vehicle, so I just want to get rid of these aluminum wheels and put on steel ones ASAP.
So if anyone knows what other model's wheels might be compatible (or can point me in the direction of a web site that could tell me) I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks,
Jay
If you do not shut the AC off when you turn the car off...I think the doors/dampers stay in the same position they were in when the car shuts off...
I do not hear them returning to a position, which I do when you shut off the AC w/the car still running.
Do you have to manipulate the level..etc often or was one time good enough?
Thanks