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Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Sometimes when I make a hard left or right turn or a complete circle turn, the tires wobble and feel like you are riding on the sides of the tires...I have been to the dealer, and they have no clue..
Tire pressure and tire wear are ok..and no vibration at any speeds.
Does anyone have any info on this..
wbabor
wbabor
I love this car and am glad to see a sight like this to look at possible problems to look for. Since I didn't see anything about the exhaust system here is what I just encountered with mine and I hope I can save some other people big money as I have.
I was going to install chrome tail pipes on my muffler but the mechanic informed me that it would be a waste of money because I had 3 pin holes at the bottom of the muffler and it would need replacing very soon. I found out mufflers are covered under the 3 year/60000km warranty. So I told them to replace it. They got the car on the hoist and found 2 holes in the exhaust pipe coming from the engine. So that was needed to be replaced also.
I saved $1200 job just because I wanted to enhance the look from behind with chrome. I probably would have never noticed the decay in the exhaust system until after my warranty was up if it was not for that.
I recommend every one to get the exhaust system checked before your warranty runs out to avoid such a absurd extra cost that could have been prevented.
Thanks 2000 "M" 24,000 miles
1. powertrain only
2.Added Care = 800 Items
3. Max care = All mechanical components
Since you negotiated the price of the contract into the price of the car they evidently sold you #1 as #2 and #3 do cover the speed sensor that locked you tranny in second gear.
The rattle your hearing is probably the steering rack and pinion assy again covered by #2 and #3 only. A somewhat "typical" problem again.
Try to get the dealer to upgrade you warranty to a #3 as the 99's are a first model year with "typical" first yr problems
You can check her for more details on problems and fixes
http://www.300mclub.org/
Give them a call to see if they will upgrade you coverage. I bought my warranty from them on my '01 LHS the were about 40% cheaper than buying from Chrysler on line even though It is still the Chrysler factory warranty.
Can't hurt to call and ask, the are a very friendly Chrysler dealer.
http://www.chryslerwarranty.com/
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872251291
My previous car was a 1999 300M (standard suspension) – NO PROBLEMS and MUCH driving pleasure over more than three years. In April 2002, I took delivery of essentially the same model, standard suspension – only the Luxury Group is a new addition. From the outset with the 2002, I have noticed that the handling is much less taut and precise, fuel economy is poor (21-22 MPG at same speeds and over same routes with same 89-octane gasoline brand) compared with the 1999 (27-28 MPG). Currently 7,000 miles on odometer. Twice in the past month, I have found the vehicle completely "dead" in my driveway: no start, no instrument displays, no nothing. On both occasions, vehicle started immediately with a jump start. Roadside Assistance truck driver reported other similar episodes that he has seen in the past few months involving new Ford, GM, and Chrysler products. Dealer fix for my first "no-start" episode was – a new battery! Vehicle is currently at the dealership; I am currently at home with a "loaner" Sebring – not a very exciting alternative. Due to Chrysler's deserved reputation for poor quality over the years, I leased both the 1999 and the 2002, so I will be stuck with this problem for only 23 more months. If the dealer/TSB collective knowledge can't account for this problem, should I complain about leasing an unreliable vehicle, or should I just tolerate the occasional and unpredictable inconveniences?
Has anyone else experienced this problem? I suspect it may be a problem with the rack but wanted a few opinions before taking it to the shop.
I thought that Chrysler was putting stainless-steel exhaust pipes in all their cars (or at least the high-end cars) for several years now.
The mufflers themselves may not be, but aren't the exhaust piles (front, rear, etc) on the 300 made from stainless steel???
http://pub88.ezboard.com/f300menthusiastsclubfrm8.showMessage?top- icID=201.topic
Twice during my ride home when I exited the freeway the engine died. I hope its related to the speed sensors and not another failure (Crankshaft Position Sensor).
I also noticed that I'm now getting a vibration in the steering that most of you spoke of and associated w/Goodyear tires. I had Eibach springs (lower) and 18" wheels/tires put on @ 50k mi. and the problem is just showing up now.
I found a guy who will rebuild the PW motor for $50. I send the motor and he rebuilds. It's a 1hr job to R&R. Oh well, this car starting to require the same care as my 69 Cougar.
My 99 300M has fun (mostly) 77,800mi.
I love my 2003 (stock, silver) that I picked up for a steal due to the previous owner's habit of chipping some of the paint on the trunk when removing golf clubs or some items. What an idiot! Anyway, I have the following problems and I'd surely appreciate any help.
1. Rear passenger door does not open. Suspect the door mechanism may be broken OR the child safety lock mechanism broken. Anyone else seen this out of the factory? I doubt the previous owner even noticed, it was on a lease and had less than 7k on it. They didn't even take the shrinkwrap off the manual If indeed broken, does the 'adjustment' phase of the warranty expire at 12k as per similar cars I've had? I'll get it fixed regardless, just want to know if I need to get in to the dealer in less than 600 miles (I'm closing in on 12K already after only 6 months!)
2. Even more frustrating is the auto-lowering driver's side mirror. In the research I've done on this board and others, it appears to be a luxury option set in the EVIC or by some other programming mechanism. Since my vehicle is stock, I'm not able to set this feature from reading the manual. I may be missing something, though. Most troubling is that I *swear* this started happening after about 3 months of ownership, so I may have sat on the remote, punched some stereo buttons, etc and not known what I was doing. If anyone has heard about this being a malfunction of some sort or ever better, knows how to disable this feature on a stock 2003 model, I surely appreciate it.
Cheers,
Ben in IL
Michael S.
12/12/03 - 18 days & counting for the engine swap.
I purchased a 300M-Special in August '02 to replace a Honda. Yes – DC converted a former Honda customer In the past 15 months and 24,000 miles with this beautiful silver 300M-S I've replaced the Infinity amp, front rotors & pads (at 21,000 miles? Hmmm), an alternator belt, the drivers’ seat rails, both rear struts, and – as of 11/28/03 – a bird-nested engine due to a broken rod.
I'm without my Top 'O the Line (engine failure @ 24k?) 300M-S from 11/28/03 to probably, maybe 12/10-11/03. My service advisor at Lou Grubb Dodge (Phoenix, AZ), Chris (Gosh, I'm really sorry about that) Crawford has indicated that DC absolutely will not provide a rental vehicle while the 300M is getting it’s heart transplant. I called 800.992.1997 and got the same line, "What, no DC extended warranty – too bad, our product failed horribly, and you get to go find alternate transportation on your own nickel."
Quite the interesting way to leverage DC’s extended warranties. I wonder which brain surgeon made the command decision to turn satisfied current customers into guaranteed EX-future customers. A $200-300 rental car charge would not even be a negotiating point w/ Ford, GM, Honda, Toyota, or Mercedes for this class of product failure.
BTW - In 15 years & 230,000 miles ALL the '87 Accord needed were oil, filters, and timing belts. Oh, and the A/C compressor at 180,000 miles. That's it, nada mas...
Strangely enough, the other day I was SLOWLY filling (with multiple pump cutoffs) when all of a sudden it started working normally. It has now worked AOK on the last 2 fill-ups.
'Tis a puzzlement!
Remove the negative auxiliary cable
Remove the air filter and the air cleaner top. Loosen the hose clamp from the housing and remove it completely, there is a rubber sleeve holding the air box, just pull up (it is a friction fit with a boss at the exposed end and it comes off hard)and remove it, mote the rubber sleeve on the side of the box where it mates to the air intake off of the inner fender. The small air box is held in place by a push type of fastener, Use a small screw driver in the slots to pop the inner pin up then pull out and move it out of the way.
Slide the wheel well access cover out (easier said than done)
Remove the battery hold down (2 screws - different lengths), then the positive cable, slide the battery toward the opening, remove the negative terminal slide it out and lower to the the ground.
Note: most of the fasteners are metric.