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Comments
Steve
You want it done right, do it yourself. If you pay, it should be done better than you could have imagined.
I love the Information Highway almost as much as the open highway. Post-on!
Odyssey Transmission Issuestopics.
MODERATOR
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1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position.
2. Press the Select/Reset knob until the engine oil life indicator is displayed.
3. Press the Select/Reset knob for about 10 seconds. The engine oil life indicator and the maintenance item code(s) will blink.
4. Press the Select/Reset knob for more than 5 seconds. The maintenance item code(s) will disappear, and the engine oil life indicator will reset to "100".
Good luck, hope it works!
Steve
Go here and register your vehicle (you will need your VIN number). Then click on the "My Odyssey" header and you will see a link for the owner's manual.
Steve
1. When I opened the cover, I can only see five ports for the plugs, I can't see the last one. Where can I find it?
2. The owners manal doesn't say anything on when to change it. My brother has a 2006 Civic and when he checked it, Iridium Denso plugs are installed and still in good condition. Should I have the same type of plugs?
3. If my plugs happen to be Iridium Denso, how long should it last before I change it?
Thanks.
Thanks
just wanna share my exp too. my 06 already has close to 8800mi on it and i've had 2 oil changes, 1st one @ around 4600 or so miles (yeah racked up mileage from southern cal to lake tahoe/reno) and that one was at the dealer and paid their price (bah!) then the 2nd one just this past wk also @ the dealer but i bought my own Mobil-1 Fully Synthetic 5-quart at wallyworld, costs #23.64+tax and a fram oil filter. i paid the dealer $12 labor + $0.50 for the washer.
if i were to pay for a Mobil-1 synthetic oil change at the same dealer, it woulda cost me $53-55+tax.
question for you folks, is having a genuine honda oil filter make that much of a difference? if it does, then i'll use that next time. i'll make sure to buy in bulk. for any of you in the socal area esp. the sgv, @ goudy in alhambra all accessories are 15% off. ionno if that includes filters or not...
ps: someone mentioned changing the pollen filter. is that inside the car? is there an additional air filter that needs to be changed under the hood?
pls advise.
thanks!!
http://www.handa-accessories.com/
yes there is a pollen filter for the AC/fresh air system, and yes it is different from the engine air filter. you probably can get the former from the web-site as well (inquire), and engine air filters can usually be had at a local car parts store, although you'll find them on the web-site.
Thanks for your help in advance.
Thanks.
This is just your dealership trying to take your money.
Your car is still brand new and does not need the differential fluid or transmission fluid changed. Heck, some cars never have their differential fluid changed...ever!
I would have the transmission fluid flushed at 50k miles or so. The differential fluid you could do at the same time.
If you race your van professionally, then you would want to do this sooner, otherwise don't listen to the stealership because all they want is your money!!
Any other ideas as to what it might be would be greatly appreciated. By sheer coincidence, the car is going to the dealer tomorrow for a previously scheduled L/O/F and replacement of the mesh in the A-pipe.
Thanks!
-FS
There are people experiencing bad wheel bearings and power steering pumps. Maybe yours has a bad bearing.
Just curious, if your car doesn't drone why is the A-pipe being replaced?
After reading your post, I surfed this board for other posts pertaining to bearings and couldn't find any (unless I did a bad search). Where else can I learn more about this problem?
Oh, and I DO have the droning noise - but that noise is different from the bearing noise. The drone is only heard at around 2000 rpm in top gear, whereas the bearing noise was more of a metallic hum coupled with a small lawnmower engine sound, heard at various speeds and rpm, but with particular resonance at around 42 mph and 65 mph. Two different thangs.
I'm picking it up from service tomorrow AM - let's see if the A-pipe mesh replacement fixes or at least minimizes the drone.
-FS
I have my wife in a minivan b/c its practical for my family - but I'm almost ashamed to admit how much fun it is to cruise 'round with the wife and kids in this thing. Its definitely the nicest driving, quietest, most comfortable family vehicle I've ever owned.
So bearing - shmaring!
-FS
p.s. - It was the left front wheel bearing - and the wife says the pipe replacement seems to have greatly dimmed the 2000 rpm drone though I haven't driven the car enough myself yet to tell for sure.
What are my options here?
The display that comes up if you get to the reset screen for maintenance minder still says the next service will be a "B" even though the oil life is now 100%.
How did this happen? I sent to the reset screen to see what my next service was, pressed the button and it reset. Ooops. My bad!
I am thinking of waiting for the oil life to drop 10% and then just doing the B service and oil change. Any flaws in that plan?
Be sure you are getting a HondaCares warranty and not some P.O.S. Universal Underwriter's aftermarket policy or you will have lots of problems down the line. I also recommend negotiating for the zero deductible. Otherwise, after the 3/36 expires, every time you come in with a warranty issue, they'll clip you for $100 just to tell you that either its working the way it should or it's not a covered item.
Finally, when you get your warranty packet, make sure you check that it actually specifies the terms you agreed to - I negotiated for a zero deductible, but when it came, it said $100 deductible and I had to leave boot prints on the business manager's rear end to get it changed to what it was supposed to be (which they finally did).
-FS
Anybody else had problems with persistent engine knocking on regular gas? If so, what was the cause/how'd ya' fix it?
Thanks!
-FS
Much appreciated.
-FS
Appreciate the help!!!!
They said it was OK to drive until then. The knocking is moderate (faint sound of a baby rattle from under the hood - kinda like the old GM Iron Duke 4 cylinders used to knock - and I hear it only when accelerating, not at steady speed) and was unaffected by a change to higher octane gasoline.
Will post again once PCM is installed.
-FS