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Mazda MPV: Care & Maintenance

13

Comments

  • gat135gat135 Member Posts: 7
    I am interested in purchasing a 2005 left over MPV but I'm not sure due to the comment made by my mechanic. He claimed that it had taken over 1 month to receive a part on a Mazda he was trying to repair. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    Ok, it's been months since posting here but here is another issue I have. I need to change the light bulb for the DRIVER SIDE little parking light - the one within the headlight bezel. Do I need to remove the battery to get at this socket?
    I can get at the headlight, but not that little light!
    Darn, there is a pipe in front of it too!
    Any ideas are welcome! If I disconnect the battery, I'll need to reprogram the radio, clock, etc....is there anything else that could get screwed up too? I'd rather not remove the battery if at all possible.

    Thanks, Tom
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    I heard that it costs 450 dollars for the 60K warranty work; which includes replacing the timing belt! Is this a mandatory thing or just a nice to do thing??
    That's a lot of money for just changing oil and rotating tires and changing a belt.
    Please respond; anyone who has gone thru this period.

    Thank you. TCC
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    There is no timing belt in the MPV with the 3.0L V6. It is a timing chain and does not require replacement at 60k miles.
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    chain on the '00-'01 2.5L V6 as well. no maintenance on it either.

    -Brian
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Do you mean, the chain requires less maintenance than the belt? Timing chains do stretch over time and eventually need to be replaced, but not as often as belts.
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    Thank you for the replies regarding the timing chain/belt.
    I have a Toyota that requires it every 60K and so I wanted to be sure. I called my local friendly dealer who did not disclose the fact that it is a CHAIN vs. a belt...how nice.
    He just said it was over 400 dollars for the service and come on in with open arms!! Truthfully, if you have your tranny flushed, antifreeze flushed, oil changed, and tires rotated under a tire warranty, I can break it down to be much less than that amount elsewhere and that is what they basically do at 60K at my friendly open arms dealer!
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    Anyone replace one of those yet? As the rear license bulbs are sooo fun to replace, I think those little funky lights within the headlight bezel are a real treat to change too!
    Mazda should change them for free labor. POOR design for sure. You need to remove the battery and a air housing to get at the drivers side one!!! Engineers are great with cad, but not with hands on!!
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Correct, no specific maintenance necessary (just change the oil :) ) There isn't a real defined mileage for replacing the chain like a timing belt.

    -Brian
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    Ok, I seem to have a pet peave with this MPV vehicle and anything to do with lights, lightbulbs or self-maintenance items...or items that USE to be considered SELF-MAINT. type items!

    How does one go about adjusting the 'height' of the headlights?? I don't see an adjusting screw and the manual has nothing on this!
    They show a diagram on how to change the headlight bulb - which is a joke since they show a large space between the battery and the socket area for the drivers side bulb - NOT! It cost me $25 to have the dealer replace that little parking light and he was cussing it...which the manual actually states to 'see dealer for replacing parking lights'!

    Sorry for the continued ranting on this vehicle, but it is not 'user-friendly for working on the simple things!

    Again; how does one adjust the headlights?

    Thanks, TCC
  • bob57bob57 Member Posts: 302
    ...but it is not 'user-friendly for working on the simple things!

    Have you had to change a tire yet - in the rain?
    There's nothing like getting close to nature being on your knees in a pool of water cursing the engineer who designed the infamous "hidden spare tire".
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    I hear you there! I think people with MPV's or other design flawed vehicles should stage a rally on DUMB ENGINEERS!
    It's obvious that they only design things on a CAD drawing and NEVER try it for real! But they get paid the big bucks and we pay the big bucks for a unit that is worthless in less than 5 years!
    Still no one has replied as to how to adjust the headlights; maybe no one cares about having lights out of line!!
  • dmckaydmckay Member Posts: 3
    don't know about you, but my mechanic could not locate the turn signal bulb at any auto parts store. It had to be ordered through the dealer. My dealer apparently does not routinely keep them in stock, I believe the cost of this silly little bulb was over $6.
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    Great! Not only is the labor a killer on this vehicle for the simple things, but the parts are expensive too!
    I have not lost a turn signal light YET, but I'm sure that will come next. I've replaced nearly every external bulb on this thing in 3 years! About 30% of them I've been able to do my self....!! What kills me is that the unit has so much potential, but between the tranny issues (mine seems good now) and all the other nit-picking things, it is a nuisance vehicle! I'm really worried about what it will be like after 5 years of ownership. It may just start falling apart as I drive it and all the lights will be burnt out too:-O!
  • bob57bob57 Member Posts: 302
    I have to whisper this so it doesn't hear me...

    I have 92.5K on my flaming red '01 MPV. It has honestly been the most trouble free automobile I have ever owned. I change the oil at 3~4K intervals, add fluids every once in a while but that's about it. It's beating the two Honda's I have owned. Now, if it breaks down in the next two weeks or so I'm blaming you guys - :))

    So, besides the spare tire and the tiny little ashtray (always my personal joke) it's been a very good van.
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    Consider yourself very lucky. I think anyone that has any car with little or no issues these days is very lucky.
    Even my TOYOTA Camry has had brake issues and oil leaks in the cylinders!
    So, you have not had to replace any of these darn light bulbs yet? WOW! Take a walk around your vehicle to be sure they are all working first....:-) I actually think the earlier models of the MPV were better although you had that smaller engine though....

    BTW, I wish that I could have gotten a red MPV in 03 but they didn't offer it anymore after 2001!.
  • bob57bob57 Member Posts: 302
    Yea - it's a shame they curtailed the blazing red after 2001 - but then again, I enjoy the looks I get in town. From what I've read here I agree, the '01 was seemingly their better year although in general, aside from the transmission woes, the '02 and on are not dogs by any means.
    I also have a 2000 Sienna which has been pretty good too - some little nit-pickin' things but generally satisfactory. I prefer the MPV for in town travel and the Sienna for long trips.
    I mentioned this a while back; the Sienna is the long range bomber and the MPV is the fighter. I wouldn't trade either one right now.
    As far as your "lucky" comment - it's about time! I've owned too many Fords and Chevy's in the past - Ha.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I read recently that for '02, the MPV not only got the more powerful V6 and the 5-speed automatic, but also got improved braking and suspension. Since the tranny on my '02 shifts very smoothly, I guess I'd rather have the '02, even if it isn't red. :)
  • krossikrossi Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 MPV LX, V6, 150,000 miles. It failed to start the other day. Battery is good (15.5 volts).I checked all I could and all signs pointed to starter. I had the starter checked, it was bad, I replaced it and still no start. When I turn the key on, all lights come on; when I turn the key to strat, the idiot lights dim slightly but nothing happens. I can hear a faint clicking under the dash somewhere but don't know where it comes from. Is there a relay or other electrical compnent taht could be at fault? It is puzzling because everything seems to be fine except it does not start -do i try to fix or cut my losses and donate the car? Thanks -Ken :confuse:
  • shirohniichanshirohniichan Member Posts: 12
    Howdy, folks.

    Since the maintenance page is so rarely visited, I thought I would post the question here.

    I bought an in-cabin air filter replacement element for my wife's MPV. I looked under the glove box to see where it would fit.

    After toying around and removing a few clips and screws, I couldn't figure out how to remove the piece on the left that looked like to most likely place to put it.

    How does one replace the filter element? :confuse:
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    It has been some time since I had my MPV but from what I recall, the filter is behind the glove box. you should be able to remove the glove box without tools by opening the glove box and pressing the sides in (allowing it pivot all the way out. Behind that is small door with a little release tab. the filter should be right in there.
  • shirohniichanshirohniichan Member Posts: 12
    Thanks! It was easy to do.

    The funny thing is that I asked the parts guy if the filter was behind the glove box (like on my Infiniti). He said it was below the glove box, so it wasn't necessary to pull the glove box out. He should have just said he didn't know.
  • indiana1indiana1 Member Posts: 2
    I'm looking to have my 2003 MPV (42,000 miles) serviced. The service guy told me it would cost $620.00 to do so. Is this a bit steep?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    That seems very high for a 42,000 mile servicing. Have you had all the maintenance done "by the book" up to now? Did the service guy say what was included for $620? Is any of it non-routine maintenance, e.g. replacing some worn parts? Going by the book, a 42k service would be just an oil/filter change I think, maybe a tire rotation if you do them every 6-7k miles. About $50 worth. There must be something else going on here.
  • indiana1indiana1 Member Posts: 2
    We haven't had any problems with it and have done everything by the book. He said it would include flushing all the fluids, realignment, rotating tires and the oil/filter change. Not replacing any worn parts that I know of. Is this routine maintenance?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    "Flushing all the fluids" is not routine maintenance at 42k miles. Not if you have done everything by the book all along. Also, have you noticed a problem in steering the car? (Does it not track straight?) If not, why do a realignment? So that leaves rotating tires and an oil filter change, which is what I said originally. Should be around $50, maybe a little more depending on where you live.

    Now, if you have never had the coolant flushed or transmission fluid flushed, I could understand why the service writer recommended those services on a 3-year-old van with 42k miles. But $620 still seems high even with those services added.
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    Is this routine maintenance?

    No, it's not. Routine maintenance is following the service intervals outlined in your owners manual. i.e Coolant replacement (yellow) at 100,000 miles. No recommended interval for transmission fluid unless you tow or are under "heavy usage" conditions.

    At only 42k miles I think you would be wasting your money. Some people get carried away with frequent oil, transmission, coolant & brake fluid changes. It's really not needed and is bad for the environment. You can wait until at least 60k. Also, most dealerships charge 30-50% more than an independant garage would for similar services, so they will advise you need it irreguardless.
    Do it yourself and save 80%
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • ksaid2002mpvksaid2002mpv Member Posts: 11
    What if your transmission has been reflashed many times and is at the current version of software and it still does it? Don't write this hard shifting problem under the rug. I think that their should be a class action lawsuit against them because sooo many people are having the SAME issue! Get a CLUE MAZDA!!
  • shaynatool2003shaynatool2003 Member Posts: 1
    I am no mechanic. From what I understand you are only supposed to flash your car once! There will be a sticker on the inside of the of car. GO to mpv club I hope this helps
  • d5ad5a Member Posts: 63
    Wanted to see if anyone has had these issues. Bought a new MPV just two weeks ago. I baby a car and i'm noticing the paint scratches easily and it chips like crazy. The sliding doors seem to be chipping way to easily. it feel like every time i open one of the doors i see a chip on the inside door area were you could put a door guard. Wondering if anyone has put a door guard on the inside of a sliding door to protect it.

    Also noticing the center tray that flips up and down is chipping.

    How is everyone elses vans as far as interior and exterior durablilty and finish?

    Any informtaion on other vans would be great.

    I really like the van so far rides great and is very quite. I picked it over the honda and toyota.

    Oh also today went to have some added dealer items put on to the van that was promised when i bought it. I bought mine at a toyota / Mazda dealer. I asked the guy if he sees allot of them come in for serivce. He said no he sees alot of the Mazda 6 but get this he turned to me and said but the toyota vans are much better. but you get what you pay for and you have to buy what your budget allows. Again I picked it over the honda and the toyota. It wasnt a budget issue. I was floored. I didn't say a word but was amdazed he woudl say that to a Mazda MPV owner let alone a customer.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I have a 2002 MPV (dark blue) and the paint doesn't seem prone to chipping at all, especially as you described, but does seem prone to scratches because the primer is light-colored, so even a slight scratch is visible. I have had some success covering these up with a paint crayon (dark blue or black).

    The Odyssey and Sienna should be better than the MPV--the MPV's design dates from the late '90s, and the powertrain is basically unchanged since it was introduced for the 2002 MY. Also I doubt you can get a new Odyssey or Sienna for under $17k, which is possible with the MPV.
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    I haven't had any problem with my sliding doors chipping. (I would use touch up paint on those chips though as soon as you can.)The front hood got a few chips from small rocks being kicked up on the expressway, I bought a hood deflector and it works pretty good on keeping the chips away, as well as being sporty and stylish looking.

    I bought the Mazda OEM door edge guard that you were referring to. Though I didn't have any problems with door edge chips, bought mainly as a preventative. I took it back to the dealership because installing the guard required using a cutting tool on the edge of the door to properly install it.

    I don't see how the center tray could chip as it is made of plastic?

    That was pretty stupid of the service guy saying the Toyota van was better and you get what you pay for. My opinion is that the Mazda MPV is a better van, because for my needs it was. I didn't need a overpriced/oversized minivan (with questionable styling), when I can have one that is a size that is easy to handle and park, is attractive and sporty looking in both interior and exterior, has excellent quality and fit and finish, and is thousands less.

    edited: If you don't think that door paint is holding up like it should, you may want to have the dealership look at it. They'll blame you more than likely, but as you have recently purchased the van, they may take it more seriously.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • dg13dg13 Member Posts: 3
    Hello,
    Shattered both passenger side lamps in snow storm. Plenty of sites that sell them at a discount (about $200 for both), but wondering if they're difficult to change, as I know the fog lights are a real hastle to replace? Any advice? Thanks!
  • amitr1amitr1 Member Posts: 2
    Hello. I have a 2003 Mazda MPV. It's 4 years warranty is about to expire. Other than the usual inspection, are there any specific tests that I need to do before the warranty
    expires? The car seems to drive well, but I want to make sure that there are no underlying issues that need attention. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • amitr1amitr1 Member Posts: 2
    Hello. I have a 2003 Mazda MPV. It's 4 years warranty is about to expire. Other than the usual inspection, are there any specific tests that I need to do before the warranty
    expires? The car seems to drive well, but I want to make sure that there are no underlying issues that need attention. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • vamom1001vamom1001 Member Posts: 8
    Hi...I have an 02 MPV with about 78k miles on it. I bought the extended warranty and have been very glad that I did. While I love the zip of mazda (I've had 2 others..so I do like Mazdas), and while I think for the price it is hard to beat the upfront cost of the MPV, I have been frustrated with the repair costs. Also while the type of things that I have needed done are not totally obnoxious (once had an american car and it was ridiculous).. I have been dissapointed at quantity of issues and frankly their repair costs (parts and labor) seems much higher than either Toyota or Honda.

    Anyway, just wondering if anyone else has had this happen... recently first thing in the morning my brakes are VERY stiff.. with a little pumping they seem ok. Took it first to my local garage.. they flushed lines, checked fluids and verified brakes were ok. Still had problem so took it to the dealer.First said something about brake lines decaying and needed to replace them and rotors..that was NOT under warranty..cost about $300.00. I wouldn't have minded IF it fixed the problem.. but it didn't..seemed only marginally better so I took it back and now they are saying I need the idle air control valve replaced. That is under warranty at least. Anyone else have this happen to them?

    Also had trouble with over revving and feeling like the engine was jerking.. they replaced a valve..didn't fix the problem (covered under extended warranty though).. now they are saying transmission has to be replaced, plus front wheel bearings and oil pan all need to be replaced. Now I am not complaining as all under warranty.. and they are giving me a loaner for free BUT I am concerned as this seems like a lot of stuff to go wrong. I hate to get rid of the car (first as a single mom.. money is tight..second as overall I like the car). Anyone else have this type of thing happen..once fixed will it all be ok or is this the start of MAJOR problems (I only have 1500k left before warranty expires so if I get rid of the car it would be soon)...just wondering what anyone else had experienced along these lines.

    At what point does it make sense (cost, aggravation etc..) to say enough? I don't think my mileage is that high and I do get it serviced regularly..fedd back is appreicated!

    Thanks!
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    Brake lines decaying in 5 years/78k miles? Maybe someone else can chime in here, but that seems unlikely to me.

    If you have faith in this dealership, I'd go ahead and have them fix everything under warranty. Then drive it for another 500 miles left on warranty and see how it does, leave 1000 miles in case you decide to sell.

    This is a tough call. I think it just depends on how well your dealership can diagnose and repair properly. If they install your trans. properly... you should be good to go for another 50k. If you continue to have problems after the trans. and other repairs, then I'd take it to another Mazda dealership if possible, then look into selling if repair bills become to frequent or unreasonable.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • vamom1001vamom1001 Member Posts: 8
    Ok.. I pulled out my service ticket to see what they actually did..when they first looked at it they found code P0706 internal failure of the trans range sensor switch..so they replaced that (under warranty...
    I had told them stiff brakes so they replaced front brake pads and rotos.. the rotos were replaced under DSA warranty and they flushed the brake system..total charged $622.36 and warranty covered 299.50..so my actual cost was $322.86.. is that a easonable price for what they did?

    Then as I said above... the problems weren't resolved...took it back and now the items that they are doing are: replacing the transmission, replacing the oil pan, replacing the front whee bearings and the idle air control valve. Not complaining as they said all under the warranty. But I am concerned as why didn't they see all these things the first time I brought it in? (They are saying that replacing the idle air control valve is what will fix my stiff brakes...does that make sense? They are stiff first thing in the am or if the car has sat for a while.. and they are so stiff I could stand on them before they work.. but if I pump them a little for a few minutes they all of a sdden will click in and work fine and I have no other problems that day (assuming no long sit period...)

    Anyway.. I have idea if the dealer is being fair and straight forward with me or not..so I appreciate any and all help/comments. The one thing he did say that I appreciated was that the reason they hadn't done the transmission first off is that they have to first replace the switch and see if that solves the problem.. if it doesn't then they move to the transmission. That actually made sense.. I understand eliminating the simple first. I am just shaking my head about everything else.

    Since my receipt says parts and labor warranted for 12 months or 12k miles.. does that mean I am covered in case their repairs are falty? What about being covered for mis diagnosis? I amgetting sick of bringing it in and having a repair done and the problem is still not fixed...

    Oh the other continuing problem is that I hear this continuing click sound when I drive.. they said the replacement of the front wheel bearings will cver that.. anyone else have this problem? I have been trying to get that problem fixed for going on a year now... they keep claiming it is something else...
  • d5ad5a Member Posts: 63
    I purchased a hood deflector/bug protector for my 2006 MPV. When I was installing it most of the plastic black clips that hold the hood deflector/ bug protector on the car broke. The kit does not unclude extras. Out of 6 clips 5 broke. How do I go aboutfinding replacement clips so that I can finishing installing the hood protector? :mad:

    Please advise,
    Dave
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Probably best to call the manufacturer (should have a number with the instructions), tell them what happened and see if they can mail you extra clips.
  • d5ad5a Member Posts: 63
    I looked all over the instrustions and no number to be found. Going to call the dealership in the morning but doubt I will have much luck. It took them over two weeks just to get it in when i ordered it. Oh well. Anyone had the same problem? If so would love to know were you found the plastic clips.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Oh good, you ordered it from a dealer. So it's probably a factory part, meaning it has a warranty.
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    The same thing happened to me when I installed the hood deflector on my 2004 MPV. Unless those clips are lined up perfectly they are very easy to break. That the melon heads at Mazda didn't include a couple extra 5 cent plastic clips is ridiculous.

    I called the Mazda dealership and they said they could order a kit, which included clips, metal brackets and the 3m tape for $34. That's right... $34 for about 30 cents worth of plastic clips. Anywho, I went to an auto parts store(Autozone)and bought a variety pack of clips for a couple bucks... you may get lucky and find the exact size. The closest clip to fitting was just a couple hairs to big. So, I drilled out a slightly larger hole in the metal bracket and it worked fine. No problems in the 2 years since I installed it. :)
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • vamom1001vamom1001 Member Posts: 8
    ok.. they replaced the transmission (78k miles).. under warranty at least (big fan of the extended warranty on this car at least!). I got it back on monday.. still seemed to not drive correctly.. jerked and over revved and there was a bad burining oil smell. Then I brought it in.. they said that yes, apparently transmission was bad so they would replace it.. AGAIN. They just called me and said.. no not transmission but actually all the problems are not transmission at all but rather caused by burned out ignition coils.. that is covered under the warranty so that is fine.. but I am getting VERY worried.. in the past month the car has had ignition coils replaced, transmission replaced, oil pan replaced, bearings replaced, rotor/brake work done.. I am at a loss for why all of these things would go bad at roughly the same time.. has anyone else had this type of thing happen? I do regular maintenance.. change the oil regularly and drive just normal suburban driving.. no accidents...I have never felt like this about any other car.. like things are going wrong constantly. While the mileage is getting up there ..it is also not that high. I thought cars could and should routinely last til 100k miles...? It is mazda cars.. is it the MPV or is it that my expectations are out of whack?
  • d5ad5a Member Posts: 63
    Anyone know the best thing to do about surface paint scratches? My 3 year old decided to clean off the Van with a piece of ice. Now my drivers door has tons of scratches in the paint. Tried wax but the scratches are still there. The van is dark green so the scratches show up pretty well. Any advise or tips would be great. :(

    Thanks!
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    Must have had sand or small gravel in the ice to be so deep. I would think a good body shop would be able to buff out the scratches if they are superfical, and aren't thru the clearcoat into the paint.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • d5ad5a Member Posts: 63
    Thanks for the advise. I was thinking thats what i may have to do. I don't metal at all just surface scratches but they are noticeable. Was hoping the wax would take them out but it didn't work. Didn't know if there was a product around to remove that that someone had used that really worked and didn't damage the van.

    Thanks again for your help!
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    You're welcome. Should be an easy and inexpensive fix.

    I got some surface scratches the other day when I backed the Buick against our hedges. :sick: They came out fairly easily though.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    If they are just surface scratches, a "paint crayon" may make them unnoticeable. These are available at auto parts and discount stores (usually in a set with various colors) and they are like a big crayon--you rub it into the scratch, let it set awhile, then rub off the residue. I've used them with good success on my dark blue MPV (I use the black crayon) and other cars over the years. After you put some wax over the touch-up, light scratches are invisible.
  • vamom1001vamom1001 Member Posts: 8
    My problem started late fall. First thing in the am or if the car sat for a long time and it was cold out.. my brakes would be really stiff.. I would have to stand on them practically..or if I had time sit there and pump them and all of a sudden they would depress and work fine. First I went to my local garage thinking it was just low brake fluid. They flushed the lines..refilled the brake fluid and checked my brakes.. said everything was fine. I still had the problem..so went to my dealer (had an extended warranty).. explained the problem.. they said it was some problem with the brake lines decaying and some issue with the rotors.. the line decaying was under warranty the rotors wasn't...300 dollars latter I'm on my way.. problem still exists.. I brought it in again.. explained the problem was still there.. this time they kept it over night.. encountered the problem and said that there was some sensor issue that made the brakes think I was accelerating and that they fixed it. It has been fine.. but this week with weather dropping the problem is back. Does anyone have any idea what is going on...I am in Norther VA.. had this car for 5 years and this winter is the only time I have encountered this problem. I don't want to take it back to the dealer without having an idea of what direction to point them in as they don't seem capable of diagnosing the problem them selves!
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