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Nissan Pathfinder Owners Care & Maintenance
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Comments
the CD changer on my 2001 Pathfinder SE displays a "error2" message on the LCD display and it won't play nor reject the CDs in there. anyone experienced the same problem? i lost the owner's manual don't know if the error code is listed there. i may have to take it to the dealer, but i have a feeling this may be a simple fix. will the dealer charge me for this? the car has 32k on it so it's still under warranty.
thanks in advance.
THANKS
It's done now for another two years, but I'd like to find the right hand block drain plug - anyone? I'd like to attach a pipe to it so it can be accessed. The left hand one just needs an extended plug. I used standard ethylene glycol coolant, and refilled with the stuff non-dilluted, as I couldn't get all the water out, until I had enough glycol in to give me better than 50% (I chose 60% as it tends to get rather cold here and I wanted really good corrosion protection). I put 6 litres in the 9 litre capacity system. To get the heater to work again, I had to actually drive the vehicle, as following the manual instructions didn't do it (air lock in the heater line - LE with automatic climate control).
Not as bad as the 4Runner, as I -never- found the block drain plugs on it, even though they were shown in the shop manual.
The plates were still covered, so no harm done; but don't be lazy (like me) about checking. Be sure to used distilled water if you add any (I keep plenty on hand for my radiator anyways...)
Be careful you don't get too much antifreeze in your system. Much beyond 50% and you start causing more trouble rather than preventing trouble...
Antifreeze does not transmitt heat very well (water is much better and "Water Wetter" is great). If you never have hot summer days, then you might be okay.
Antifreeze needs water to work! A 60% solution may not be harmful (Prestone says up to 70% is safe), but how often does the air temp get less than 50 degrees below zero Farenheit?
(At those temps you'll need a good synthetic oil and a battery warmer just to start the car!!)
You can check your actual coolant concentration with a hygrometer or test strips and adjust accordingly. My system came from the factory with too much coolant so I drained about 16 onces out and replaced with distilled water and Water Wetter. Even on 95+ degree days, pulling a 3500 lb trailer up a mountain, the engine is cool as a cucumber.
Don't let maintenance worry you on these puppies!
alternator as the voltmeter when running doesnt
show the 14.3 v output but just the 12v from the
battery which runs the car for about 10 minutes
before dying for lack of recharge. Anyone have
an idea as to a source for heavy duty alternators
or guides to its replacement? I will get a Chilton
manual but are there better ones?
I should note that he put in a very large sound system that apparently went over the limit for the factory electrical system. This is not a
nissan fault: he did it. Now we have to undo it.
Has anybody tried any other brands yet??
However, if you're not noticing any ride quality differences, you could put it off. When you do decide to replace them, consider using a suspension shop or tire store to do the work. It will be considerably less expensive. (I believe even Pep Boys Auto will replace struts as well.)
You might not notice a decline in ride quality with leaking struts because the change is slight and gradual. What you WILL notice, if they need replaced, is how much improved the ride is after they have been replaced.
I noticed the same thing in a friends PF a couple of weeks ago coming back from a football game. Again the PF was pretty loaded down 4 people and tailgating necessities. It felt to me as if the shocks/struts (don't know what it has) are bottoming out or something but the end result is a pain in your back.
Is there something wrong with the design of this model or is there likely some problem. Anyone had to have rear suspension worked on under warranty? Anyone have similar experiences or solutions.
Thanks.
Eliminate bottoming out forever! CLICK ME!
Dean, is there a simpler option to use a garage compressor instead of an onboard compressor, which is, more complicated? Can you have a tire valve and inflate each side individually?
While it's certainly easier to install only the airbags, over time you may find that you wish you had a compressor.
For example, let's say you haven't aired-up your springs (for everyday use) then on some random weekday you offer to drive some of your coworkers when you go out for your weekly off-site lunch. (yum!)
Boom! Bottoming out... or... "Guys, I have to stop by the gas station and fill up my air springs" (Uh, yeah, right. Whatever... maybe Joe should drive instead...)
But with the onboard compressor it's more convenient to adjust the air pressure as necessary.
In answer to the question, can you inflate each side individually, yes you can. It just depends on how you route the air lines. The airlift instructions explain how to do this.
I lowered the axle as low as it would go with the PF sitting on jack stands, with rear wheels
removed. Then removed the rubber bumpers with a 12mm socked wrench. then drilled out the existing hole in axle spring mount to 1/2 inch, using the angle drill attachment. Then continue to drill out the 1/2 inch hole with the steep drill to 3/4 inch. deburr the holes, mount the rubber spacer supplied with the kit install the air springs, by deflating the spring, then push the air bag between the spring opening. run your tubing through the rubber spacer and axle mount. then continue to hook up a compressor, or to a location of your choice without the compressor. you will find that there is plenty of room to push the springs through the metal coil springs, after deflating them. you can use any suction device to do this. took me about an hour to install the air bags, I connected each bag separate and ran the tubing to the side running boards, and attached the air fittings to a hole already in place in the bracket mount holding the running board to the PF.
Give it a try. You can get the right angle drill attachment and the step drill from Harbor Freight, for about $40.00 total coast for both. it's the best thing I could do to give my PF a great ride. No more bottoming out and by hooking up the air bags up separate, no pressure rebounding. Which translates to better handling in tight turns.
I have a 2001 LE, from day one I had a check engine light, the dealer fixed it at a price of $150, all they did was clean the fuel injectors. A couple of weeks later the light was on again, dealer said "air is going in through the gas tank which causes the light to turn on. Now 90K later the light is still on. A local mechanic suggests having the oxygen sensors replaced approx $100 each there are three.
And then the dealer charged you $150 to fix it??? Ever heard of bumper-to-bumper warranty?
And then 2 weeks later the light came back on... but you've been driving your truck for the last 89,000+ miles with the light on, and you're just asking now how to fix it??? I don't get it...
Why don't you visit a shop that will read the code that is causing the light from the computer? Randomly replacing parts (such as the O2 sensor) won't guarantee the light will go out; the check engine light can be caused by nearly a hundred different reasons. Make sure you're fixing the right reason.
BTW, the check engine light can be triggered by not tightening your gas cap sufficiently, so when you replace the cap after refueling, make sure to turn it until it clicks at least once....
Thanks,
Ryan
Thanks....
However, I have noticed that the driver side of the car is about 1/2 inches lower than the passenger side.
Is this normal ?
Thanks
I would atleast have your dealer take a look at it. If your suspension is really off it could be hazardous to drive.
I brought a used LE 01 PF. When I turn on the climate control, I notice a low humming noise. Has anyone come across this?
Remove the 4WD hub according to the instructions shown at the link below (which details how to replace the full-time hubs with manual hubs). Mind only the details discussing removal of the outer hub.
http://groups.msn.com/xplorx4/modwarnpremiummanualhubs.msnw
Then, continue to remove the bearings as shown here:
http://www.rkrenn.com/xterra/howto/bearing/bearing.htm
Ignore anything discussing the automatic hub.
You'll still probably need to buy new grease seals.
If you find the right side one, please let us know where it is. I suspect it is under the engine mount.
This is where Japaneze auto. companies fall flat (had the same problem with my former 1990 4Runner and never found the plugs in 11 years of searching). They need to make them easier to find, or run a tube to a place where it is accessable and put the plug there in the end of the tube!
Xplorx4 - After viewing the links, I don't think I'll be doing bearing re-packing any time soon. I can do basic maintenance but I'm not that mechanically inclined. So far, I've changed the oil (per scheduled maintenance/65F00 filter/5W-30), air filter, in-cabin filters, rotated the tires twice, installed rear wind deflector and greased the shaft assy. Basic maintenance stuff. I dreaded the day I have to change the spark plugs.
Pathstar - Thanks for confirming the location of the left engine drain plug. I have to use a mirror to locate it and yes, I only have the owner's manual figures to guide me. As for the other engine drain plug, it's on the right side underneath the exhaust manifold toward the front of the engine. This is even harder to get at. I'm not 100% sure though but I'll let you know when I get to it and actually loosen it.