Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Nissan Pathfinder Owners Care & Maintenance

1234568

Comments

  • dre2142dre2142 Member Posts: 1
    I have a clickety sound coming from the front axles as well....it gets faster the faster you go. Its annoying.
  • timing2timing2 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for sharing the diff fluid change experience.
    Question: Did you find any performance/smoothness/noise inprovements with the synthetic?
    Thanks
    Timing2
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    Of course I found the vehicle ran better! It was quieter, more efficient, and ran cooler! In my mind! ;)

    Actually, I -think- it may be quieter, but it probably is the same. The important thing to me is the limited slip is happy with the Royal Purple oil. I suspect the Royal Purple is less expensive than the Nissan oil and additive the dealer would have used.

    Coincidentally, last week I ran into a service tech/manager who used to work at a Nissan dealership (he now instructs the techs for maintenance of BC ambulances). He noted that they (Nissan) did have some problems with bearings and wear in Pathfinder diffs. He thinks my use of Royal Purple can only do good! We got along well. ;)
  • boss4x4boss4x4 Member Posts: 1
    Hi ...I have a 2002 pathfinder se....just recently the airconditioning fan would'n't turn off and stucked on high...any idea what's wrong?...when i switch it off, the display went off but the fan stay on high...
  • DARKHORSEDARKHORSE Member Posts: 1
    My pathy is up for a ATF flush, I was wondering what is best brand that I can use ? Also is a synthetic fluid recommended ? I will have to take it to a car mechanic as i don't know how to do it. The mechanic uses Kendall. Does anyone know if it is any good ?
  • hardlynormalhardlynormal Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    I have a 2003 Pathfinder LE with close to 36,000 and the original warrantee is about to expire. I have found a bumper to bumper extended warrantee to 100,000 for $1950.

    Do I need this extended warrantee or should I pay off a credit card? :)

    Thanks for your help
  • dugoutdugout Member Posts: 2
    Hey Ninja1,

    I had a very similar thing happen to me twice on my 2001 Pathfinder. It turned out to be the hub assembly and brakes. The first time I had to get the hub bearings lubed and brakes adjusted ($127.00). The second time I had to get the hub assembly replaced and breaks adjusted again. About $600.00 for this. Both were done at the dealership which was a rip-off. I suspect a good garage in your area could do it for much less. The parts were only about $200.00 with the rest being labour. By the way...prices are Canadian dollars - cheaper of course in the U.S.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    Is the warranty backed by Nissan? If not, be careful, how financially solvent might the warrantor be down the road, and how do you get repairs approved and who repairs the car? I have an '01 PF with 97K miles, and over the life of the car I've spent about $1250 on repairs that would have been covered by a typical bumper to bumper warranty if I had one.
  • twisted4path4twisted4path4 Member Posts: 1
    My girlfriend managed to severely cripple what once was a nice black Pathy recently. It now sits idle awaiting its outcome at a local garage that I'm not too fond of. My question is as follows based on these facts: At 165,000 miles the engine has seized due to her driving with an overheated radiator that eventually cracked due to her not pulling over until it died on her. According to her mechanic the engine's cylinders are not firing at 100 percent and the radiator is cracked. His estimated repair is USD3000.00 plus depending on incidentals.
    During this year the Pathy has acquired a rebuilt transmission (with less than 1000 miles I may add prior to death), four brand new tires and new windshield. So I ask of you the die-hard Pathy owners....do I invest USD3000.00 to USD4000.00 to recuscitate?
    Personally I love the damn thing and neither she nor I are in the best financial shape to buy a new/used vehicle with less mileage/years. HELP! Thanks for any/all insights and advice possible.
    Sincerely, Tortured in NJ :cry:
  • rogervrogerv Member Posts: 1
    Got a quote of about $600 for new timing belts, alt & fan belts & idler pulley - Any Comments, experience, Hours involved info. etc.?????
  • milobrenmilobren Member Posts: 2
    Can someone tell me where are the spark plugs on my 01 Pathfinder and how to change them? Thanks!
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    They should be obvious on the 4 cyl. On the six they are under the coils. On the rocker arm covers you will see the coils. You have to remove the coil, then you can get at the spark plug under it. One coil for each plug. Be aware they are threaded into aluminum heads and may be corroded in. Use some penetrating oil a few hours before you try to loosen them - it works best when the engine is warm. Be careful when loosening them - work them gently back and forth if they jam. You don't want to jam up and strip out the threads. Use some copper thread corrosion preventer on the new plug threads when you put them in.
  • milobrenmilobren Member Posts: 2
    I am a couple months short of 5 years on this vehicle with only 52k miles. Should I bother replacing these platinum plugs at $10 each or should I wait until closer to 100k miles with no current engine troubles. I heard that the 100k is actually more like 100k or 5 years. I'd like to know your thoughts. Thanks.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    ALL those who own a Nissan with the "VQ" engine take note: from a former Nissan service manager - the plugs should be removed, copper antiseize applied, and reinstalled (if still ok) or replaced (if not ok), at least every 50,000 km (30,000 mi). If you don't, when you go to remove them, you may not be able to!

    I keep putting off doing mine, and I may pay for that! The rear ones can be difficult to reach - he (former service manager) tells me you will need two extentions and two 3/8" drive universals. Drivers side is the worst, I'm told.

    Oh, and $10 each is not bad for a plug that lasts that long. Price out plugs for a rotary engine. :O
  • rob3232rob3232 Member Posts: 1
    i draind like 2 quarts of trans fluid out of my 89 pathfinder thinking it was the oil dran plug im an idoit. how do i put more back in and what kind? please help
  • hess6hess6 Member Posts: 1
    I live in the Chicagoland area and just brought in my 2002 Nissan Pathfinder SE to an independent garage for it's 30,000 mile check-up. They want $750. Sounds high to me, thought I'd ask other owners/experts. I'm avoiding the dealership because I feel that I'm getting ripped off.
  • alkcalkc Member Posts: 9
    Does anyone in the SF Bay Area have a recommendation for a repair facility? I live in the North Bay & prefer not to pay dealer service charges. Thanks.
  • spot2spot2 Member Posts: 15
    Hi there all. I have a '92 SE. Having some trouble. My blower, and therefore my AC, my rear window wiper and cig. lighter are all not working. I have found I am getting no power to the "accesory 2" section of my fuse block.I've seen others with this problem but no solutions. Wondering if anyone has any hints?
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    Hey Pathstar, long time, no talk! My '01 now has 99k miles on it, so I'm getting ready to change the plugs. Several questions: I assume I need to remove the "decorative" engine cover. Is that as straightforward as it appears to be? How do you remove the coils? Finally, as I recall you have the same engine as me. How bad is the access to the plugs? Hope all is well, and thanks in advance for your help.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    I don't think the engine cover has to come off. You can access both "valve covers" with it in place, though it is easy to remove. There are two bolts on each coil, as I recall. Be gentle with the coils as they are expensive!

    The front plugs aren't too difficult to get at, but the rear ones require "U" joints and extentions on the ratchet - use 3/8" tools (ratchet, extentions and "U" joints). Drivers side is the worst. If the plugs are really hard to turn out, "gently" work them tight and loosen and use penetrating oil.

    Good luck!
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    I've lubed the one propellor shaft fitting on my 2001 PF every 15,000 miles as the manual calls for. However, I'm not sure it's ever taken any grease. It seems to just squirt out around the fitting as if full. Has anyone else had this happen or is my fitting just blocked. If so, anyone know how to clear it?
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    It's a metric grease nipple, which is fatter than the US standard. There may be paint on the end of the fitting. Try cleaning it. I've had good luck getting grease into mine. I just have to keep telling myself not to fill the driveshaft - one or two squirts is all it needs. I seem to recall getting a metric end for my grease gun years ago.
  • 05se05se Member Posts: 4
    Hello all,

    I'm trying to replace the in cabin microfilter for my 05 Pathy SE off road. The problem I'm having is trying to get the glove compartment door fully open for access. The manual says to squeeze both sides of the glove door to get it loose (and hanging by the string). But the left side of the door won't give, and if I squeeze any harder, the thing will crack. Anyone else on this board having a problem like this? Or should i just take it to service and have it done there.......seems like an easy thing for me to do, but of course there's always one stupid obstacle in the way. I thank you guys for your help.
  • bluestarbluestar Member Posts: 1
    Hi All,
    I'm new to the group and my first question is as follows:

    In my 95 Pathfinder , the center console is very loose. What is the best remedy for repair, Do I tightened ? if yes, how ?
    or
    Do I replace ?

    Thanks
  • caminuvikcaminuvik Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know the procedure to replace a block heater on a 98. I can barely see and did manage to touch it. How you get at it to replace it. Thanks Cam
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Heh, you're at the end of the road! Welcome to Edmunds.

    Did you look from underneath? Often it's easier to get to the freeze plugs where they usually install the block heaters when the rig is on a lift.

    Steve, Host
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Welcome to you too Bluestar. Check out the Nissan Pathfinder Owners: Problems & Solutions discussion also (try a Search This Discussion while waiting for responses).

    Steve, Host
  • caminuvikcaminuvik Member Posts: 2
    Not quite at the end of the road, an ice road goes to Tuktoyaktuk during the winter (most of time here). I had it on a lift, can see it with a mirror and twist my hand and arm around and then I can touch it. No idea of how to work on or replace it (no room). Anyone have manual and do they give any directions or information on what to do? 16 hour drive to nearest dealer. Thanks Cam
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My '99 Quest has a similar engine I think (VG33E) but mounted transversely. In my factory manual it just shows the general area of the block heater for Canadian engines, but says nothing about what's required to replace it. The diagram only shows one place to install it, so you may not be able to put one in a different frost plug.

    Anyone?

    Steve, Host
    (p.s. I drove the Dempster about 15 years ago - nice trip, but a bit far just to visit the dealer!)
  • alkcalkc Member Posts: 9
    I own an '01 PF & I'm tired of getting hosed by dealerships on repairs.

    Does anyone have a mechanic/shop to recommend in the San Francisco area (North Bay preferred)?
  • sundance799sundance799 Member Posts: 1
    Hello there. I have a 1998 Pathfinder V6 with 45000 miles. When the engine is cold there is a valve knock. This goes on for about 3-4 mins. Once the engine is warm there is no problem. At my last oil change I added 1/2 quart of Lucas Oil Additive to try to help this problem. But so far no luck (about 1200 miles driven since oil change). I have also been chaging the oil more frequently (every 1500 miles)for the last 3 oil changes. I am concerned about damage to my engine. Any suggestions or comments would be helpful.
  • flyer09flyer09 Member Posts: 1
    Where can I go in Palm Beach Countty , Fla. other than dealer for intake sensor and oxygen sensor repair? Live in Boca Raton area. Thanks.
  • jayericksonjayerickson Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering if you ever figured out what was wrong with the fan. I have a 2003 and the same thing just occured.
  • ramikharamikha Member Posts: 1
    I have the check engine light on in my 1998 Nissan Pathfinder. OBDII diagnostic gave a code P0161 (Oxygen sensor 2 bank 2). Does any body have info about this sensor? Is it rear right or left and how much does it cost to repair?

    RK
  • romeoejromeoej Member Posts: 1
    hi i have the same problem with my pathfinder if you have found out how to fix the problem pleas let me know what to do and how much it cost.

    Thanks alot
    ER
  • i1901i1901 Member Posts: 1
    I have misplaced my service manual and I am not sure what my 2002 pathfinder SE is required at 60K. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide will tell you what service is required by Nissan and will estimate what it should cost in your zip code.
  • 01pf_se01pf_se Member Posts: 10
    the edmunds maintenance schedule isn't accurate. it still says to replace timing belt when there is none and it only has option of choosing manual transmission.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Must be some confusion about that VE engine - the one in my Quest (similar engine as the Pathy) has a belt but goes for 105,000 miles (actually mine has gone for 110k and counting, lol).

    Gates shows a belt for the Pathfinder for 1996-2000 - they also say my engine is interference when it's not, so I don't fully trust them either. (link)

    I'll send a note in - feel free to contact us with the Help link below and it'll get routed to the right department.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I just looked at the 2002 Pathy maintenance schedule for 60,000 miles (after prompting from customer support) and there is no timing belt requirement for that model. Maybe you were looking at the '01?

    Changes to the missing optional transmissions should be fixed in the maintenance guide in the very near future.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    Actually Steve, it's the "VQ" engine (3.5 L), and there is no timing belt requirement for it from 2001 and up. These engines use a steel belt, which is supposed to last "the life of the engine" (whatever that means).
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Right, mine's the 3.3l VG33E - I thought there was an E in there somewhere. Supposedly the VG33E was used in earlier Pathfinders. The VQ is sometimes called the world's benchmark engine, but because it doesn't roll off the tongue like "Hemi" it doesn't get enough respect, unless you follow Ward's annual list of the 10 best engines.

    I'm afraid to ask if the VQ is an interference engine in the Pathfinders from 2001 onward. ;)

    I'll reply to the CSR email. :shades:
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    I have an '01 PF with 106K miles and have never changed the fuel filter. The factory service manual does not recommend the replacement of this filter at any specific mileage nor time. It just states "when the filter becomes clogged, the vehicle speed cannot be increased as the driver wishes, in such an event replace the filter". It looks like replacing this filter is fairly straight forward, except the manual says you need to pull the fuse for the fuel pump and then crank the engine 2 or 3 times to release all the fuel pressure. Has anyone here replaced their own fuel filter on a Pathfinder? Is the job as easy as it seems to be? What keeps the fuel from draining out of the tank while you have the filter disconnected from the fuel line (looks like the filter is lower than the tank itself). Thanks in advance for your help.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    I like to use a small clamp to pinch the fuel hose on the tank side. Haven't had to do it on my Pathfinder yet, but I have on a few other vehicles.
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    I have a 2001 PF with 83,000 miles. I've always greased the one and only fitting on the front driveshaft but it has never seemed like it took any grease. It almost seems like it just squirts out around the fitting.
    1) Are there different types of fittings and could my grease gun have the wrong one?
    2) If I haven't been greasing it what damage could this do & what symptoms might it cause?
    3) How much grease should you give it on a regular basis and if I haven't been getting any grease in how much should I give it now.
    4) Is it typical for grease in a grease gun to seperate and a yellow liquid to leak out of the grease gun? Thanks...
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    Smokey, I have the same truck with 107K miles. The fitting could be defective and not opening up to allow grease in. The reason it needs grease is that the splines on both portions of the driveshaft slide against each other because the driveshaft needs to lengthen and shorten as the rear suspension moves up and down. I'm just guessing, but it seems to me that you need not worry about over-lubricating it...any excess grease will merely drop off. So far as potential damage goes, once again I'm just guessing, but I would say that without lubrication the drive shaft would not lengthen and shorten as smoothly as designed. I would also guess that this could damage the u-joints and/or the transfer case output bearing as well as the differential pinion bearing if it got bad enough. I would also guess that unless you've driven your truck in shallow water at some point, there is probably enough lube still on the splines to prevent this from happening...but I take no responsibility if I'm wrong :-)
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    There are metric and SAE "zerk" fittings (grease nipples). You will have more luck with a metric fitting on the grease gun. I bought mine at an auto parts supplier.

    Grease is oil held in a jelly. It will separate over a period of time. That is how it lubricates. It's really oil lubrication held in jelly for "timed release". Nothing to worry about - it's normal. My guns leave little puddles of oil where I store them. I say "guns" because one has molybdenum grease, one has teflon grease, and the third has a special waterproof grease for my motorcyle swing arm.

    If you can't get any grease in the fitting, just smear some where the spline shaft goes into the rest of the driveshaft. It doesn't need a lot. If you ford streams a lot you want to be greasing it a lot, but for most of us, these are "main street" 4WD vehicles and don't require a lot of greasing.

    I grease mine successfully per the maint. schedule and have a nice coating of grease on the underside of the body in line with the part of the shaft where the spline goes into the rest of it.

    If you get a grease gun end that will work, pump it until you see a little come out at the spline junction, or three or four full pumps, whichever is less. There is no seal involved that you can damage with too much grease.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    Pathstar, thanks for the insight on how grease works...never knew that, makes sense!
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    Thanks for the help... both of you. I only have one gun with moly that only gets used for this. Do you think after five years of seperation it's still good? Ever need to replace it in the gun just from aging?
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    Well, if the grease is no good after five years mine is really no good as it's over 15 years old! ;) Squirt some on your finger and see if it still contains oil. If not, it's no good. I suspect it's still good for many years to come.

    BTW, molybdenum grease contains molybdenum disuphide (fine powder). It's there in case the grease dries out, in which case the powder gets forced onto the metal surfaces when they rub together under force. This is also a good lubricant. It actually bonds to the iron, giving it permanant emergency lubrication (until it sees forces high enough to melt the steel that is).
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles