Nissan Pathfinder Owners Care & Maintenance

jambazi · February 2001

Dealer #1 states that the 65F01 filter is only installed at the factory, and is "for the break-in period only." They said that they are only put on the car by the factory, and only available in Japan.

Dealer #2 actually had a 65F00 filter in stock, and there was Japanese writing all over the box. Oddly enough, the box stated that the filter was for a Sentra! This dealer's theory was that the 65F00 filter was put on by the factory "to save money." Anyway, he also believes that the correct one for the '01 PF is 9E000.

So that's all I have. Anybody else hear anything different?

meca2 · February 2001

I called Purolator today and talked to an engineer and he said the new number is L14610 and should be on the shelves soon. I'm looking for one now. I also talked to a friend at the dealer and we triple verified that 15208-65F00 IS THE CORRECT ONE for the 3.5 L engine. It is smaller than the 15208-31U00 or 9E000. Some manufactures
might be more enviromentally friendly and using smaller filters so the land fields don't fill up with oil filters. Nissan engines are so clean,don't make metal ect. I'm not concerned about the size.Steve

jambazi · March 2001

Despite what Steve found out, I'm still not convinced that 65F00 is the right filter for the 3.5L engine. I've found more evidence that 65F00 is the filter for the Sentra engine! Of course, if anyone out there actually has a Sentra, we can confirm this.

I did some Google searches on "65F00," "65F01," "31U00," and "9E000." There were a lot of sites in Japanese, but there were a couple interesting ones in English.

One guy, Rick, put the service log for his 2000 Sentra online, and it's here:

http://www.zotz.com/nissan/service/sentra_se_service.htm

In it he talks about how he replaced the factory-supplied 65F01 filter with the 65F00.

Another website I found is an Infiniti site, here:

http://www.infinitihelp.com/Store/

If you click on the "Maintenance" section, you can then click on your car and part that you want. It then takes you to the page where your proper part is displayed. If you click on QX4 and then 2001-2001, then oil filter, it takes you to 9E000. If you click on G20 (Sentra), and same model year, then it takes you to 65F00. (For your amusement, note that they are charging over TWICE what you'd pay for the exact same filters at a Nissan dealership!)

I realize that neither of these are official Nissan sources, but I did find it interesting considering that the dealer I talked to also stated that the 65F00 part was for the Sentra (I saw it on the box myself).

Maybe Nissan intends for us to put the Sentra (4-cylyinder, 140 hp) oil filter on the 3.5 liter engine.

The important thing about the filter is that it has a relief valve. The manual says, "The oil filter is a small, full-flow cartridge type and is provided with a relief valve." It also has a diagram of the filter, which looks like the longer 9E000 and not the smaller 65F00. Unfortunately, the manual doesn't list filter dimensions, but it shows the relief valve, which both 65F00 and 9E000 have.

I just looked over this string of posts, and realize that other dealers have 65F00 listed in their computers for the '01 PF. The two that I went to had 9E000 listed. Maybe it's a regional thing based on supply/demand. Or maybe some dealer's computers aren't as up-to-date as they should be. At any rate, I'm sure that there are a lot of PF's out there with 65F01's and a lot with the 9E000. It probably doesn't matter.
Since the 9E000 that I have is what the service manual calls for, and it looks like the diagram in the service manual, and it has a relief valve, and 2 dealers here told me it was the correct one, and it looks like the 65F00 is for the Sentra, I'm going to stick with the 9E000.

--Howie

jambazi · March 2001

I had some time before work today, and so I stopped by the Nissan dealer. This time I went straight to the mechanic. I said, "I hope you can help me clear something up."
He seemed very friendly.
"When I went to change the oil in my '01 PF for the first time, I found that the filter on my car was different than what you guys gave me."
He knew exactly what I was talking about immediately. In fact, he knew the part numbers.
"The 65F01 filter," he said, "is for the Sentra SE-R. It's essentially the same filter."
"But it's smaller," I said.
"That's right," he replied, "It otherwise wouldn't fit on the engine of the Sentra. Still, it works fine on the Pathfinder. Eventually, though, Nissan is going to go with one part for both, probably the 31U00, or 9E000." Again, he said these numbers right off the top of his head, without looking them up.
"So why do other Nissan dealers around the country call for 65F01 to be used with the PF, but others around here call for 31U00?"
"They often do that due to a surplus of parts in different regions. They're trying to get rid of the 65F01's, so where there's a surplus they'll put them on the PF's."

So it turns out that everybody was right. Some dealers do show the 65F01 (or 00) as being the correct part, while others call for the 9E000 (31U00). Now I'm definitely keeping the 9E000 on my car, because it's bigger and has a larger filtering area. The Nissan mechanic agreed.

Hope this clears everything up.

--Howie

aspenwhite · March 2001

National Fleet Parts is listing the Luber-Finer oil filter PH2867 for the 01, Nissan/Datsun, Pathfinder, 3.5L engine. If you search by Competitor's Number 15208-9E000 you also get the PH2867 (they show a filter image and dimensions). I'm keeping the 9E000 just because of the larger filtering area. Thanks jambazi and meca2! AW

http://www.nationalfleetparts.com/luberfiner.asp

240wildhorses · March 2001

Hi all, I'm thinking about replacing the Rear & Front diff gear oil on my 2001 PF w/LSD with Mobil 1 synthetic 75w-90. According to Mobil 1's product data sheet 'this lubricant It is manufactured from synthesized hydrocarbon base oils and a specially designed extreme-pressure, limited-slip, sulfur-phosphorus additive package'
and has 'Excellent limited-slip performance'
Ok, here's the question of the month: Does this means that this is a LSD APPROVED gear oil that can safely be used on my PF and I don't need to add any LSD additive? Thanks in advance for your assistance. Daniel

meca2 · March 2001

240wildhorses: I used Amsoil diff lube. It is approved for LSD and works very well. Amsoil even meet the MIL-PRF-2105. I have a list of Mobil Oil lube specs and it looks like the syn. lube does not meet the spec. I'm going to start using Amsoil engine oil and filters the next change. It is 100% synthetic. Is the Mobil 1 MOBILUBE SHC 75W-90?

meca2 · March 2001

240wildhorses: Please check out Amsoil web sight @amsoil.com.
They have excellent air filters also. Steve

pathed · March 2001

I'm looking to buy a service manual for my new 2001 4x4 Pathfinder LE. There has been some discussions on this topic on this forum but I've yet to find a pointer to where I can purchase it. Can someone help? Many Thanks. Ed

pathed · March 2001

Sorry......I missed the obvious. When I purchased our new Pathfinder, I ask at the dealer and at the service center and they said that it didn't exist.

I found it on the Nissan site at:

http://www.nissan-techinfo.com

pathstar · March 2001

It's supposed to be available from any dealer in the US. It's not normally available from Canadian dealers, but good ones can order from the US. I ordered mine via internet from Tustin Nissan in Calif. You can get the printed version for $310 as I recall, or a CDROM for $210 or so (US prices). I'm probably off a bit on the prices. It's a good manual. If you think you'll save money by buying the CDROM and printing it out, think again. It's many many pages long (I think it was in the 700 area?). You will need your VIN so you get the correct version. I bought it because I figured I'd save the cost just by not breaking one interiour panel when I try to remove it ;-).

240wildhorses · March 2001

meca2, thanks for your reply! Mobil 1's website is showing two gear lubricants, Mobilube HD 80W-90 LS and Mobil 1 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lubricant. Here's what their product data sheet says about the SYN 75w90 'APPLICATION: Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant is suitable for all automotive applications where lubricants meeting MIL-PRF-2105E, API Service GL-5, are recommended. It can also be used in rear axles where an API Service GL-4 lubricant is recommended' so it seems that this syn lube meets the MIL-PRF-2105E as well. My concern is that I don't see APPROVED FOR LSD in the data sheet and I'm not sure if the following description means it's LSD approved or not: 'Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant is an Indy 500-certified, multipurpose gear oil. It is manufactured from synthesized hydrocarbon base oils and a specially designed extreme- pressure, limited-slip, sulfur-phosphorus additive package'
I've heard about Amsoil products but this is something I want to get done before I go on a trip and I don't think I can get the Amsoil order bef the weekend (I can buy the Mobil 1 syn at AutoZone). BTW, how many quarts I need for both the front & rear diff? TIA for the feedback. Daniel

pathed · March 2001

Thanks for the info David. I ordered the Service manual today on CDROM from the link I previously indicated for $210 plus shipping.
It has over 2500 pages. I went with the CD for a couple reasons.
1) I thought it would be easier to search the manual for the information I need.
2) My last manual had come into contact, many times, with my greasy fingers while working on my vehicle. Now I can print out the section I need and throw it out after the work has been completed.

I hope I made the right decision. ;^)

meca2 · March 2001

240wildhorses: MOBILUBE SHC 75W90 does not qualify for LSD. If you want I can e-mail you the page "qualified products list" for MOBIL oil under MIL-PRF-2105. The front diff= 3 7/8 pints. Filler plug 29-43 ft/lb torque,drain plug = 43-72 ft/lb. The rear diff = 5 7/8 pints. Filler plug 43-87 ft/lb torque,drain plug = 43-87 ft/lb. Have fun......Steve

240wildhorses · March 2001

meca2: Thanks but I'm not talking about 'MOBILUBE SHC 75W90', actually the only Mobilube they show in mobil1.com (Product data sheet for Gear Lubricants) is the 'Mobilube HD 80W-90 LS' and is not synthetic. The one I'm planning to buy is the 'Mobil 1 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lubricant'. Did you get the whole 5 7/8q (rear) and 3 7/8q (front) when you drained yours? Thanks again, Daniel

meca2 · March 2001

240wildhorses: I just drained the diffs and filled them until the oil
flowed from the filler hole. I'm sure they were full. Next time I change the lube my wife might make me do it outside. I change it this winter in the garage and the smell was really pugnant.! Steve

jambazi · March 2001

I was testing out my odometer and speedometer yesterday, measuring the distance read on the odometer as it passed the mile markers on the highway (interstate 10 through Alabama). I don't think the mile markers are that accurate. I seemed to pick up about a tenth of a mile for every 10 miles travelled, and about 0.9 miles over the course of 65 miles. But when I got to Florida, I seemed to lose varying degrees of mileage between the mile markers. I suspect that it's the mile markers and not my PF that's inaccurate. (Who puts down those mile markers anyway? Who measures them out? Is it some DOT guy in an old Ford pick-up, driving along the side of the road, checking his odometer?) After all this, a question did come to mind, the answer to which I could not find in the Service Manual:
Is there any way to calibrate the odometer/speedometer?
The only thing the Service Manual talks about is diagnosing whether there is a problem with the gauge. But the only solution, if there is a problem, is "replace the unified control meter." Anybody find anything else in the SM relating to odometer calibration? As a corollary, this means that if you were to change the size of your tires, you wouldn't be able to calibrate your odometer/speedometer to match.
--Howie

brian60 · March 2001

Just wanted to give everyone a heads up on squeeking doors and windows - it might be caused by dirty/dry weatherstripping. After a few too many snowboard trips, my tailgate was squeeking pretty badly until I cleaned the weatherstripping and rubber bumpers, and then lubricated them with some Silicone Lubricant. Took about five minutes and now my PF (99.5, 27k) is as quiet as it was when I bought it.

plwilliams · March 2001

Thanks for the tip Brian. Now, if only my feeble mind will only remember it when/if sometime in the future it happens to me ;-)

duper · March 2001

What is Silicone Lubricant and where can I find it? My 99 tailgate squeak alot and I had to put a peace a paper between the ruber bumpers and the body plus some grease, but this only works for a few weeks and I have to uncrew the rubber bumpers, clean them and regrease again.

Thanks

brian60 · March 2001

While I don't have the chemistry background to adequately explain it, silicone lubricant (not a brand name, sorry for the caps in the original post) restores the elasticity and moisture content to rubber, weatherstripping, etc. and was recommended to me by the service guy at my dealership when I described the squeeking that I was getting. It should be available at most auto parts stores and I imagine, your larger home improvement stores. I found a can at the local Kragen's for $2.99 in the lubricant section. Hope that helps ...

duper · March 2001

Thanks for the response. I'll swing by Kragen on the way home to day and see if they have it otherwise I'll stop by Home Depot.

Thanks. Take care

johnskev · March 2001

is this something to possibly use on the windshield wiper blade? i have no idea how it happened, but my passenger wiper blade has a "flip" in it, so there's about a 2 inch section that doesn't get cleaned/wiped as the wipers move. it's just the rubber blade that has the problem. is there any way to fix this or do i need a new blade? (a friend mentioned using a hairdryer?)

-kj

terrahawk · March 2001

Basic tire pressure question. I recently bought a '96 Pathfinder (the tires are stock size) and see that the glove box sticker recommends 26psi tire pressure. My tires are at 30-32psi so I was going to reduce this to the recommended level. Any advice or reasons why to overinflate the tires? Thanks, Peter.

P.S. I checked the FAQ and did not see "tire pressure" discussed. Maybe it could be added?

sanandton · March 2001

I can say that those of us who run Bridgestones had it made clear that no matter what the manufacturer says they expect around 35psi in the tires. I asked this question several times at different firestone/bridgestone dealers in the wake of the Firestone disaster. I did note the ride became a little more harsh, but have adjusted.

scottc3 · March 2001

So, can you drive 60mph for 1 minute.. this should be exact.. if your speedometer is reading 60, it should take you 1 minute to go 1 mile.. as seen on the odometer. Maybe set the speed control to 60 on a flat road and drive for 5 minutes, should be 5 miles.

Just a thought.

Scott

jambazi · March 2001

Scott,

That would be a good internal test. However, both the speedometer gauge and the odometer take data off the same electronic unit. If that central system which controls both of those is off, then the test as you described above would be normal, but the car could still be miscalibrated.

I will try it, though. Thanks.

--Howie

smithmd · March 2001

In my '99.5, my speedometer was off by about 4% when the OEM tires were well worn (it read 75 and I was going 72) when tested with my GPS ($114 Garmin eTrex--great for boating, hiking, backpacking, driving in areas you don't know...). My truck came with the 245/70R16 tires. I replaced those tires with 255/70R16 tires and now my speedometer and GPS match. I'm guessing that when the tires are well worn, my speedometer will again be off by about 1.5 or 2 percent. Just my experience. I don't know what to tell you about calibrating your speedo.

woodyr1 · March 2001

Hi:

I have accumulated dust on the instrument panel face, and am interested in a method of cleaning the face without scratching it. Any ideas?

Thanks

dell26 · March 2001

I am a little confused. I hear alot of you talking about replacing the fluid for this, but where on the car is it done. Also when should it be done if it needs to be lubricated diferently from the other parts of the Pathfinder. Thanks for any help, and no laughing

mpg5 · March 2001

step bar is rusting from inside out (very common prob i believe). is there a fairly simple solution, or do i just grin and bear it and remove/replace eventually? thanks for your help.

wcroland · March 2001

Woody,

Meguiars, www.meguiars.com, has something for that. Its for clear plastic. I use their Gold Class Products for outside protection (Polish & Wax).

Clark

meca2 · March 2001

dell26: Some people are changing to synthic oil in the differential,transmission,
and the engine. The limited slip differential looks like any other from the outside
except there should be a red sticker on it to identify. The LSD is part of the rear
axle, the drive line (or propeller shaft) is connected to the front of the diff. If
you look infront of the spare tire is is in the middle of the rear axle it's about the
size of a basket ball. The service is due every 30k. I like some change to synthetic
oil in the front and rear differential. Might get better milage and longer service???
There is a drain plug on the bottom and a fill plug about halfway up the differential
and both can be seen from the rear looking foward. Hope this helps?

sonardude · March 2001

What's the best product for protecting the dash and the exterior black plastic surfaces from fading due to sun and elements?

dell26 · March 2001

Meca2 thanks for your help. I will most likely switch myself now that I know. Let me know how the gas mileage goes since the switch.

meca2 · March 2001

dell26: I don't know if it helped the gas mileage. I get about 17-20 MPG. Should get alittle better this summer when the fuel quality is better. No alcohol and winter additives. I used amsoil in both differentials and might start using it in the engine. Steve

johnskev · March 2001

sonardude: people here rave about the Lexol products. Vinylex is their vinyl/rubber/platic protectant and cleaner. i just ordered some, haven't received it yet, but most everyone here will tell you it's a great product. some other products that have been mentioned are Pinnacle and Connely.

-johnskev

joe233 · April 2001

What's the best stuff to treat the leather seats with? and should something different be used on the dash/door panels?

johnskev · April 2001

joe233: check out message #88

sonardude · April 2001

Johnskev: Thanks for the reply. Where did you order the Vinylex?

johnskev · April 2001

sonardude: i ordered the vinylex from Top Notch Auto Accessories -

http://www.topnotchauto.com/

they have a special - $32.50 for lexol leather cleaner, lexol leather conditioner, vinylex, and 2 pads. click on "Specials" at the website.

pfwun · May 2001

Hi all,

Did anyone get the factory brand? Has anyone gotten a different one? How much did you pay and do you think it is worth it? Did you find it to be inconvenient when cleaning your PA?

I saw a nice set (front/rear bumper and tail lights) from WAG. I like the look and "protection" it can offer. I'll be moving from the burs to the city within the yr and I thought this would be a good way to counter the unavoidable digs.

what are your thoughts/advice on this? Thanks for your time and help.

first time poster/if owner

plwilliams · May 2001

I've got the Waag front grille guard on order and expect it in any day. I'm paying $499 installed from a local speed shop. I could have gotten it cheaper online, but I wanted the one piece guard and by the time I paid the trucking freight it was pretty close to the same price. I was told that there was plenty of room between the truck and the guard to allow for cleaning but I can't offer you any personal experience yet. If you're interested, I can post a picture after it's installed. I don't know how much protection it will provide, but IMHO they look cool.

jeckles · May 2001

Has anyone tried to relocate the outside temp sensor yet?

I figure I'll buy two connectors from Nissan and then fashion a 12 to 18-inch extension for the sensor. With a little extra wire I should be able to move it away from the radiator and into a place that gets more ambient air flow. Whole job shouldn't cost too much...

The present location not only gets radiant heat from the radiator, but it is behind a large piece of grill that prevents good air flow across the sensor. My old car mounted it on the bumper behind the license plate, so that's where I'll probably go with this one.

Any one else tried anything interesting?

smithmd · May 2001

I've got a '99.5 XE, so I don't have the built-in thermometer. I do, however, have one from Radio Shack that I "installed" myself. The display just sits in the boot of the 4wd stick. It's black so it doesn't stick out and nobody ever notices it.

Anyway, I placed the sensor in the grill attached to the top of the upper-most opening with the sensor actually exposed and not hidden by anything.

The grill is deep, everything behind the grill is mostly black, the sensor is black, and it's so far up in there that it's in the shadows. I don't even notice it and I know it's there.

As long as I'm moving, I get an accurate reading. Of course, as soon as I stop moving, the reading goes up. But, it doesn't take too long for it to go back down once I start moving again. With it that high up, it isn't as affected by road heat as much as it would be if it were under the license plate.

At the risk of sounding even more redneck, I'll tell you what I used to fasten the sensor to the grill: two ordinary paper clips. It was meant as a temporary solution for testing the accuracy of the location, but it's been there for over a year, now, and hasn't budged at all...and they're cheap to boot! Good luck!

meca2 · May 2001

jeckles: I checked the temp with a thermometer like smithmd did and found the outside temp to be very accurate.(+ - 1/2 deg) If you do move the sensor move the correct one. There is 2 sensors on the post. One is for the auto heat control and the other is the out side temp. If this is a thermocouple don't be surprised less accurate. This
thermometer does not react very fast and the vehicle must be driven at 6 mph or faster for 100 in. and then updates itself every 40 seconds. Cheers.

pathstar · May 2001

Was just finishing the 12,000 km service this weekend (tire rotation and grease the "propeller shaft") on a 2001 LE. There is only one grease nipple (on the front shaft). I am definatly never going to let anyone near my vehicle with an air wrench. FROM THE FACTORY (first time the wheels were removed), I could just barely break loose the wheel nuts with an 18" long 1/2" drive flex bar. That was no 98 ft.lbs of torque! Also, if you ever look under the vehicle and think you have a massive oil leak (like I thought with mine) in the auto. trans. area, it's just shipping wax! I guess it darkens with time. BTW, I had to put the entire vehicle up on jackstands to give me enough room to roll around on my garage creeper under it (used the jack points for the jackstands). Here's how I put it up:
1. I used a floorjack and lifted the front using the cross beam (the one at the rear of the undertray). I placed one jackstand under each front jack point (see manual - the strangely shaped "sockets" just under the front doors on the frame rails.
2. I then used the floorjack under the diff. and placed the jackstands on the rear axle as per the manual jack points - just about where the shocks are bolted to the axle.

A few things I noticed at this second oil change -
a) Watch the tightening of the undertray bolts - I found two that were almost off (and yes, there are 11 of them plus the plastic doohicky!).
b) The oil plug gasket should last a lifetime - it's a copper one (unless it falls off and you loose it).
c) Indeed, as I have found on other vehicles, if you don't overtighten the oil filter you can remove by hand (tighten 2/3 of a turn after the gasket touches the engine - be sure to oil the filter gasket before installing).
d) Don't reinstall the undertray until you refill the engine and start it up so you can check for leaks (and don't forget to reinstall the new filter before refilling and starting ;-).

nismofreak · May 2001

It has been my experience that when you are dealing with nuts or bolts on a car that are exposed road salt and extreme temps, you will always have an issue loosing 'em up again.

A touch of anti-seize will allow the bolts to break next time. This is will not cause the bolt to come free on its own. Hell, I do that with my race's wheel studs with great success. I have seen guys break studs because they didn't use anti-seize.

meca2 · May 2001

I agree with using something one the wheel studs. I use grease,antiseize
can get messy. Also try using dow corning #4 (DC4) grease on the oil filter
Purolator recomends it on their aircraft oil filters. They always spin off easy.
Cheers

pathstar · May 2001

I didn't want to mention it as I thought I'd start a "controversy", meca2, but yes, I do put marine Lubriplate grease on the wheel nuts (this requires care when torqueing the nuts, as I'm told I can then overtorque them - yeah, right, and the factory didn't without it). I also put a very thin film on the hub so the aluminum wheel will not corrode to it (so I don't have to kick the wheel violently to get it off after 6 months or a year). I think this also helps the wheel center on the hub properly (it can more easilly slide the few thou. needed as the nuts are torqued).

I wonder about the tapered nuts on aluminum wheels, though. Most aluminum wheels use nuts with locating "barrels" and flat surfaces to hold the wheel on. Is this also a contributor to the "shimmy" problem? Also, the rear propellor shaft has no slip joint in it. Only the front has. Questions, questions!

Nissan Pathfinder Owners Care & Maintenance

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Nissan Pathfinder Owners Care &amp; Maintenance

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Nissan Pathfinder Owners Care & Maintenance