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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mickiedmickied Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought an '01 Pathy LE with the In-Dash 6 CD changer. The CD Changer has broken. 4 CDs are stuck in the changer, I cannot eject them & I cannot play them. It simply makes a noise like its trying to change the disc, but is caught on something. I've been to the carstereohelp.com website, but am not sure if its worth all of this. On that website I couldn't find any indication that they have the same player that I do (Factory Bose). Obviously, the dealer has told me that it would cost between $400-$800. Should I just try to remove the Changer from my dash myself and get the CDs out? Has anyone had this issue before?
    Thanks!
  • norbertnorbert Member Posts: 1
    i got the same problemwith my cd ,cannot load cd or eject (i think one cd is still inside if u have any ideas how to help me pleaseee reply?
  • juboogsjuboogs Member Posts: 1
    for the past few weeks when i go to start my car after it has been cooled off for more then a few hours, it will take a few seconds for it to start. it makes a whistling noise and then starts. almost like when you start the car in the winter on a really cold day.

    I have a 2003 nissan pathfinder.

    someone told me to put gumout ( fuel injection cleaner) into my gas tank when it is empty and fill it up. I did this and nothing changed

    Any help would be greatly appreciated
  • bheckbheck Member Posts: 8
    i had the same problem. so i slid underneath and started shaking everything i could get my habds on. foundthe problem. it was the exhaust shrouds. the peices of metal that are wrapped around the exhaust. i would be very surprised if it isnt it. let me know
  • jambo05jambo05 Member Posts: 7
    Glad you mentioned it. It seemed as thought anytime the rear tire hit a small bump, there would be a rattle. I will tell the dealership as they told me they couldn't find it. I will write about my findings when done. Thanks! :)
  • jambo05jambo05 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the info. I will have the dealership check it out! I will keep you posted! :)
  • coralbayflcoralbayfl Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone have a method to replace the odometer light (by the lcd) without taking the whole dashboard off? My mechanic gave me a huge estimate just to change this in labor. Its not a critical component but annoying when its night and you can't see the miles driven. Thanks!
  • coralbayflcoralbayfl Member Posts: 2
    If you find the fix, please let me know as I have the same problem!

    Thanks!
  • pathalogicalpathalogical Member Posts: 34
    On May 18, I took my 2003 PF in for service as per the service manual.
    I also wanted them to remove and rotate the spare tire. I also had a list of concerns I wanted to address to the dealership.

    1) Shifting from R-N-D, delay when D is actually engaged. Dealer said: Normal, transmission fine at this time.
    2) Steering/front end 'knocking' sound when straightening steering wheel and driving away. Dealer said: Unable to duplicate.
    3) Hard shift from first to second gear. Dealer said: Unable to duplicate problem.
    4) Front right side rattling noise from passenger side while accelerating. Dealer said: Unable to duplicate.

    So, I paid for the work performed and left. While driving home, I heard the rattling noise as usual. The next day (the 19th) I washed my car and noticed the wheel balancing weights were not present on the wheel. The spare tire is on a plain spare rim so they had to remove the tire off the rim and swap it with one of the rear tires. When they re-installed the right rear tire, I suspected they did not balance the tire. So I called the dealer right away. I told her about the balancing and persistent rattle noise. I brought my car in on the 24th and they balanced the wheel, then, I drove my car with the mechanic in the passenger seat and with the window rolled down. I duplicated the rattle problem several times (because the mechanic didn't hear it at first, but then he did). Upon arrival back to the dealer, he got out and stuck his head underneath the right side while I reved the engine at about 4000 rpms. Once again the rattle was heard. He put it up on the hoist and removed what looked like the catalytic converter, replaced it (under warranty) and off we went for another ride. Guess what happened ? Rattle, rattle, rattle !!! Put the car back on the hoist and this time I was underneath the car with the mechanic and warranty manager. He showed me the old part, shook it in his hands and sounded like there was some debris in it. Also showed me the heat sheilds around the exhaust and muffler. Some of it is welded to the components and some of it is bolted. There were no loose parts, however these sheilds are flexible when wiggled by hand. To this day, I haven't heard this rattle any more even after trying to duplicate it. Problem solved ??? Coincidence ??? Who knows. At least I got a new catalytic converter out of it or as they wrote on the invoice "Replace one front exhaust tube". I think the important thing is to 'get it all in writing'. Make sure the dealer writes everything on the work order, even if nothing is duplicated, they have to say so on the bill when you pay. So if a problem does get worse, you can show 'em your bill and say "I told ya something was wrong". :D

    In post #1522 about the rear plate, I bought some plastic/nylon washers and used them as spacers between the paint and plate. Now the plate does not contact and scuff the paint even when you slam the hatch down.
  • acbriskeracbrisker Member Posts: 4
    1) SES light activation will prevent passing the inspection. Try filling up with quality name brand gas of at least 89 octane and give it about two weeks. Make sure gas cap is tight. Pull codes for free at Autozone. Let us know what code came back.

    Hi,

    My girlfriend took the car to Jiffy Lube ... was going to have an oil change done ... the oil was clean though ... they ran the code on the SES light, and the only thing she can remember is they told her "lean" and something to do with oxygen in the gas tank. We've been running 91+ octane for every tank of gas (except 1 -- 89 octane), and the light is still on. It went off for about 1-2 days after Jiffy Lube ran the code.

    It's scheduled to be inspected tomorrow ... keeping my fingers crossed.

    Does anyone know about some code referring to 'lean?'

    Thanks,
    Alex
  • rs4rs4 Member Posts: 25
    That would be helpul. I too will post after the service is done Thanks
  • jambo05jambo05 Member Posts: 7
    Thought I'd share...I went back to the dealership and made an appointment. The service department is great...they said they would be more than glad to check it out again. I shared with them the thoughts of both the loose parking brake cable and the shrouds of the exhaust system. They said they would check it out when it came in for repair. Well, I decided to just try out the loose parking brake cable idea by going over bumps and slightly applying the parking brake to put tension on the cable. NO RATTLE SOUND! I did it for several more miles and found that the rattle came back after I released the parking brake yet it stopped when I tightened the cable line. Now all I have to do is take it in to have service tighten the cable line. Thanks to all for the ideas! :)
  • rustan92rustan92 Member Posts: 1
    I am removing the body from my rusted frame on my 1992 Pathfinder and installing it on a better frame.....has anyone ever done this before and could you tell me what is involved and how to go about doing it.

    Rustan92
  • john76john76 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 95 Pathfinder, It has about 145,000 miles on it. While out running an errand a few weels ago, I turned the corner at a light the engine stalled. I took it and had the fuel pump serviced. It drove fine for a week but, now it has started again. Now in the mornings I start it up and it sits and sputters and smokes a little. The idle is really low and seems to surge up and down. ( always extremely low) At stops, it seems to cut off almost always now. It always fires right back up if I throw it in neutral and turn the keys. Anybody know whats going on with this?
  • be021be021 Member Posts: 2
    I have an '01SE and have the same problem. I think I located the where it comes from. I opened the driver side door and watched as the water poured down the pillar on the side of the dash. It seems to be coming from the seal on the windshield. That or leaking from my sunroof down into the crack. I'm going to try to take the trim off and trace the problem. It's becoming a huge problem since, it rains everyday in Orlando.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    If the fuel pump was serviced, it may have stirred up stuff in the fuel tank which clogged the fuel filter. Try replacing the fuel filter.
  • jambo05jambo05 Member Posts: 7
    An update...stopped by the dealership today to just mention the parking brake idea. Even though I had an appointment next week, they took me right away (this dealership, Woodbury Nissan in Woodbury, New Jersey is GREAT!). Anyhow, I showed the service manager the problem and he had the tech remove the tire and the disc brake mechanism. He found that there was a piece that is driven by the parking brake cable to be loose, creating a rattle. He thought something was not right. He had the tech apply some brake grease to the area to see if it would soften the sound. It eliminated it for now. The service manager plans on notifying Nissan Engineering of the situation to see if there is something else that needs to be done. I will keep all posted. :)
  • triton88triton88 Member Posts: 4
    Hello!!!

    First let me say that this forum is great. So much infor and help! Especially from
    Xplor4.

    I have a 97 Pathfinder with 98k. When the engine runs or after I park it, I smell coolant. I've had it to the dealer and had the clooling system flushed and there are no leaks. The temperature is normal, so I don't think its overheating. I had the timing belt replaced at 71k and the dealer told me the water pump was fine. Of course it could be on shaky ground now. I also had my Check Engine light come up and I took it to AutoZone and they could only come up with a Evap Cannister or sensor. It was cleared then came back and has since gone away.Problem gone????? Yeah right!!! Will there be problems with and ODBII inspection? How much is it to replace one or both of them and can I do it myself ?

    Thanks

    Tony
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Tony,

    For future reference, the Pathfinder timing belt replacement interval is 105,000 miles. If you were led to believe it needed replacement earlier, you were misled by an unknowledgable mechanic. What's unfortunate is that, even though the water pump was fine, it's usually a good idea to replace it when the timing belt service is performed, since the labor to get to it is the same.

    With regard to coolant odor, can you tell where the smell is coming from? One possibility is shown below. Open the hood and look at the area immediately below the throttle body. See pic:
    image

    The pink highlighted device controls the idle speed when the engine is cold. The device (I'm not sure of the name) contains a thermal wax that prevents the plunger from moving (maintaining a faster idle) until engine heat melts the wax. My truck at one time had a small leak from this device, but it eventually sealed itself up. :confuse: If you see wetness, corrosion, or evidence of a coolant leak below that device (blue highlighted area) that could be the problem. It usually doesn't leak enough to show up as drips on the ground ,but since the exhaust manifold is directly beneath it, any coolant that leaks from there will vaporize, hence, the smell.

    Finally, the EVAP canister is located beneath the truck behind the left rear wheel well. Its function is to store gas fumes from the fuel tank until the engine is started, at which time a valve in the engine bay opens, venting the fumes into the intake to be burned. The canister and the valve attached to the canister (I replaced both) costs ~$170 (check www.aaanissanparts.com or nissanparts.cc for the best prices). The EVAP canister is relatively easy to replace: a screwdriver, pliers, and some sockets were all that were needed.

    Note: if any of the hoses around the canister seem "crunchy" when you squeeze them, that's a bad sign. It means the carbon in the canister has broken down and been sucked through the EVAP lines. The fix is far more complicated, but is still doable if you have an air compressor and some time. :shades:
  • zep042zep042 Member Posts: 1
    I had a local shop put struts, timing belt, and stabilizer links in my 2000 pathfinder. They called me today and when they were pulling off the main belt pully with using the correct tools, the treads pulled out and they needed to re-drill it and try it again. After all was done, they still couldn't get the pully off and they can't drill and re-tap, so they cut it off and need to charge me $375 to replace it. Has anyone had is same problem?
  • greyonblackgreyonblack Member Posts: 1
    I'm trying to find where the wiring for the horn is located under the hood. Can you help?
  • migvmigv Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 Pathfinder makes a "CLUNK" noise when i depress the gas pedal from a complete stop. It only happens when accelerating the vehicle from a complete stop. Can this be the brakes ? Anyone with this problem?

    suggestions will be appreciated.
  • cmdrtucmdrtu Member Posts: 2
    Hello, i have the same problem with my LE 2002 as well, when you got yours fix, will you let me know as well ? Thanks

    tuan :(
  • cmdrtucmdrtu Member Posts: 2
    Hi:

    I just replaced my 2002 Pathfinder OEM 's horn. It locates right in front of the radiator at the approx 10-12 inches from the hood latch.

    Tuan
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    On my 2001 PF the low pressure AC refrigerant hose that runs from the compressor to the cooling unit is leaking where it attaches to the metal piping. Does anyone know what type of clamp (for lack of a better term) this uses? I can't figure out how to tighten it or what to replace. Thanks...
  • trbochrgtrbochrg Member Posts: 7
    Ugh, had my 05 Pathfinder for 5 days (250 Miles) and today it is pouring out. Whenever i take a right turn water leaks into the passenger side. Looks like it is coming from under the dash. Anyone have any ideas? I have called the dealership and they are treating it like it's nothing. They wanted me to bring it in next week!! I told them it is supposed to rain all week and that i wanted it fixed ASAP. They won't even give me a loaner. Anyone have the leaking problem and know what was done to fis it?

    Thanks
  • kaoskaos Member Posts: 2
    I'm guessing that this is water draining from you AC. (are you running the AC when this is happening?)

    PROBLEM: there is an area underneath your vehicle, in the firewall where there should be a hole, hose, or pipe coming out. This allows the water off the AC to drain outside. It can become plugged (somehow) and the water has nowhere to drain. When you make sharp turns it spills out of wherever it is into the inside of the car.

    SOLUTION: Find this drain and unclog it.

    Hope this helps!
  • trbochrgtrbochrg Member Posts: 7
    HI Thanks for the reply, that is the first thing the dealer asked me. The AC has not been running, we picked up the car last Thursday and we have only run the AC once or twice just to figure out how to use the climate controls. IT was raining and 60 degrees out yesterday so we had not been using the AC when this was happening.

    Hopefully it is something as simple as a clogged hose. I am just upset with the way the dealer who sold me the car kind of brushed it off. This is a ~$30,000 vehicle, brand new, and he made it out to be something trivial (granted, it isn't a blown transmission, but it is an annoyance)
  • jambo05jambo05 Member Posts: 7
    I too had a problem with a 1980 Toyota Corolla and found that whenever I would turn right, water would come gushing from under the dash. Found out later that it was the drain tube from the A/C which was clogged. Needless to say, it was an easy fix and a headache relieved. Check it out! :)
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    If you selected the "defrost" or "demist" function you also turn on the A/C. It's used to remove humidity in that case. If not, then there is a leak - possibly a drain hose for the sun roof (on many vehicles the hose runs down the "A" pillers). Also check the cowl vent - it's possible something has fallen inside and that could cause water to pool and flow into the air intake for the cabin.

    Or it could just be a manufacturing defect - sealant gap on windshield or body.

    It's the dealers resposibility to find and correct and the manufacturers resposibility to pay the dealer to do so.
  • timothyltimothyl Member Posts: 1
    Did you have any luck correcting this problem? I have 60K miles on my 01 LE and replaced the OEM tires with Bridgestone Alenzas and then Goodyear Forteras because of the vibration that 3 separate tire dealers cannot resolve. I am about to go back to the OEM Dunlops, but it doesn't make any sense that that will correct the problem. However, I did not have the problem until I replaced the tires.
  • trbochrgtrbochrg Member Posts: 7
    Nope, i wasn't using the defrost or demist. This is day three without my new car (i bought it last Thursday) They now tell me that they found that there is a leak (duh) and that there is water in the blower motor?, and in the in cabin filter. But they don't know where it is coming from. :mad:

    The FINALLY gave me a loaner. I understand that they are trying to fix it, and that it really isn't their fault, But it was the lack of pleasant customer service on their end that is making this agrevating.
  • trbochrgtrbochrg Member Posts: 7
    OK, leak was found. It appears there was a bad seal in the wiper cowl. They tell me there was no component damage behind the dash exceopt for the waterlogged pollen filter. I should have it back today. Thanks for all of everyones input. :)
  • reidcreidc Member Posts: 1
    Hi-
    I really can't answer for the wheels of the LE, but the SE wheels are problematic for balancing. The re-designed for 99.5 used the same wheels up to 2001, and need an adapter plate to be mounted to most balance machines. Most tire dealers do not know of this- when I bought my first and second sets of tires you would have no idea how many places I tried.

    Two options: The first being take your Pathy to the dealer for balancing- they should have the equipment- they are pricey at $15 a wheel. The second option is to find a tire dealer OR a car dealer that has a Hunter 9700 balance machine- it is also called a "RoadForce" machine. I found a Cadillac dealer in my are that had one and charged me $8.00 a wheel.

    My shimmy was always over 40 MPH. DO NOT let a tire store tell you he can balance anything- without the adapter plate, or a Roadforce- it isn't balanced.

    Chris
  • rs4rs4 Member Posts: 25
    The problem was resolved. They put a new part for the parking brakes
  • caleb2caleb2 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 94' Pathfinder that runs perfect if you can get it to start. The problem started about a month ago and I tryied to start it but it won't it stalls just when it begins to idle up.If I turn the vehicle off and try again it would start but the problem has got worse.After starting it runs fine, perfect idle,acceleration,etc.The pathfinder is a manual stick- shift. Its my only transportation! I replaced the fuel filter,fuel relay,the fuel pressure regulator but no change. It's got to the point that it acts like it's going to start but it sputters and chugs while very low idle and black smoke out the tail pipe but stalls. Sometimes you try it and it starts perfect!! HELP PLEASE!!! V6 3.0 manual trans.
  • trbochrgtrbochrg Member Posts: 7
    Oops, spoke too soon. Dealership has not been able to correct the leak. They though the water was coming in from the wiper cowl, but when they replaced the seal, the leak still occured. I have now owned this car for 12 days, and for the last 6 of those days the Pathfinder has been at the dealerhip. Maybe a :lemon:

    I really love this car, i can't believe this is happening to me.
  • sooneraaronsooneraaron Member Posts: 1
    I'm curious if anyone has had a similar problem...

    Bought an '05 LE last week...tried to hook up my utility trailer, and after hours of checking and diagnosis, it appears that two of the trailer wiring nodes are not wired properly.

    There are four nodes (green, yellow, brown and white)...green is right side brakes and turn signal, yellow is left side brakes and turn signal, brown is running lights and white is ground.

    After hooking up my trailer, the side running lights worked, but nothing on the rear did. I used a circuit tester, and the brown wire was hot, but the green and yellow were dead. The brake lights and turn signals on my Pathfinder work properly, so I don't think it is a blown fuse.

    Any ideas? Am I missing something? Thanks!
  • jambo05jambo05 Member Posts: 7
    If you don't mind telling me, what was the part and number, if you have it, that the dealership replaced? I'd be interested in knowing.

    Thanks!
  • welshyboywelshyboy Member Posts: 9
    My 02 pathfinder has a trouble code P1167, my mechanic is not sure what it is.
    any thoughts
    thanks
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    Doesn't seem P1167 is a valid Nissan DTC. You may want to double check with your mechanic.

    http://www.iequus.com/obd_def.asp

    http://autorepair.about.com
  • welshyboywelshyboy Member Posts: 9
    Will do
    thanks
  • iluvmy01iluvmy01 Member Posts: 2
    I took my 01 pathfinder in today after the ses light came on a couple of days ago. The dealer says i need to replace the intake timing sensor? What is this and what should I expect to pay for repairs.
  • kekkek Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for the good information. I have been fighting the "sway of death" at 70 for 2 years now. Did the same as everyone else, new shocks, struts, tires. I was about to give up on the 97 PF until I found this forum with information about the bad bushings. Got the truck out of the shop last night and with the 4 links replaced the "sway of death" is gone. Looks like I'll keep it for a few more years.
  • maiyamaiya Member Posts: 5
    Hi all ,
    I am pretty new to this forum. I am planning to buy 01 pathfinder, which is having 90K miles on it. Interior looks pretty clean and leather seats. Its an SE model. So my question is, is it a good deal to buy 01 pathfinder with 90K miles on it ? If yes what is the price range I can bargain for. [I checked in Edmunds.com TMV, its about $9K]. Its a private party. what all the problems I may hit down the line ?, I brought a 96 Accord in 2001 with 90K miles on it, it still runs like a champ, I almost put 150K miles on it.
    Can I expect the same thing from Nissan pathfinder ?

    Thanks in advance
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Did your Pathfinder have the trailer wiring harness included as a factory option? If not, there is usually some kind of converter/adapter device required to convert a tail lamp that has two bulbs for the brake/tail and turn signal into trailer-compatible wiring.

    Use your circuit tester on the wiring harness plug at the hitch without your trailer attached. If you get good signals there, then it's likely an issue with your trailer wiring. The rear lights on the trailer should lightup with the running lights. That is, the trailer taillight bulbs have 2 filaments- one for the taillamp/running lights and the other for brake/turn signal.
  • mtrombl6mtrombl6 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same issue with my 95. I have changed the fuel filter, o2 sensor, and replaced a few vacuum hoses. I have been questioning the EGR valve. Have you done anything else.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    If you suspect the EGR valve, disconnect its vacuum hose and see how the engine responds. If nothing happens, then your EGR valve is stuck open and either needs to be cleaned or replaced. You can also touch underneath the EGR valve and push up on it to see if it moves up and down.
  • kaoskaos Member Posts: 2
    Check the wiring and inspect where they plug together very closely. You want to look mainly at the wires feeding your Distributor and ignition coil. Look for frayed or heat damaged wires that may be grounding out to the block or other metal areas. Make sure that at the connecting points the plugs are completely plugged in that the locking clamps on these are not broken, allowing them to work back out, (this could explain the sporadic cranking. when they are plugged in it cranks and runs, they work out and begin to lose connection the idling fluctuates, and then it won't run).

    As far as the things you have already done, in terms of the fuel delivery have you considered problems with the injectors themselves?

    Airflow can be an issue as well. Check air filters and mass airflow sensors. I must say though if the Air filter was bad enough to keep it from starting it would not accelerate very well at all. You would typically see symptoms of clogged air filters during acceleration long before they begin to effect idling and/or starting.

    Hope this wasn't too much all at once. Your problem could have any number of causes. But it really doesn't sound like it will be a major problem, just difficult to isolate. :P
  • 96trk96trk Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem, the engine runs fine when cold. As soon as it reaches temperature I get black smoke and it wants to stall. Did the egr fix yours?
    Thanks
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