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Thanks!
I have a 2003 nissan pathfinder.
someone told me to put gumout ( fuel injection cleaner) into my gas tank when it is empty and fill it up. I did this and nothing changed
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks!
I also wanted them to remove and rotate the spare tire. I also had a list of concerns I wanted to address to the dealership.
1) Shifting from R-N-D, delay when D is actually engaged. Dealer said: Normal, transmission fine at this time.
2) Steering/front end 'knocking' sound when straightening steering wheel and driving away. Dealer said: Unable to duplicate.
3) Hard shift from first to second gear. Dealer said: Unable to duplicate problem.
4) Front right side rattling noise from passenger side while accelerating. Dealer said: Unable to duplicate.
So, I paid for the work performed and left. While driving home, I heard the rattling noise as usual. The next day (the 19th) I washed my car and noticed the wheel balancing weights were not present on the wheel. The spare tire is on a plain spare rim so they had to remove the tire off the rim and swap it with one of the rear tires. When they re-installed the right rear tire, I suspected they did not balance the tire. So I called the dealer right away. I told her about the balancing and persistent rattle noise. I brought my car in on the 24th and they balanced the wheel, then, I drove my car with the mechanic in the passenger seat and with the window rolled down. I duplicated the rattle problem several times (because the mechanic didn't hear it at first, but then he did). Upon arrival back to the dealer, he got out and stuck his head underneath the right side while I reved the engine at about 4000 rpms. Once again the rattle was heard. He put it up on the hoist and removed what looked like the catalytic converter, replaced it (under warranty) and off we went for another ride. Guess what happened ? Rattle, rattle, rattle !!! Put the car back on the hoist and this time I was underneath the car with the mechanic and warranty manager. He showed me the old part, shook it in his hands and sounded like there was some debris in it. Also showed me the heat sheilds around the exhaust and muffler. Some of it is welded to the components and some of it is bolted. There were no loose parts, however these sheilds are flexible when wiggled by hand. To this day, I haven't heard this rattle any more even after trying to duplicate it. Problem solved ??? Coincidence ??? Who knows. At least I got a new catalytic converter out of it or as they wrote on the invoice "Replace one front exhaust tube". I think the important thing is to 'get it all in writing'. Make sure the dealer writes everything on the work order, even if nothing is duplicated, they have to say so on the bill when you pay. So if a problem does get worse, you can show 'em your bill and say "I told ya something was wrong".
In post #1522 about the rear plate, I bought some plastic/nylon washers and used them as spacers between the paint and plate. Now the plate does not contact and scuff the paint even when you slam the hatch down.
Hi,
My girlfriend took the car to Jiffy Lube ... was going to have an oil change done ... the oil was clean though ... they ran the code on the SES light, and the only thing she can remember is they told her "lean" and something to do with oxygen in the gas tank. We've been running 91+ octane for every tank of gas (except 1 -- 89 octane), and the light is still on. It went off for about 1-2 days after Jiffy Lube ran the code.
It's scheduled to be inspected tomorrow ... keeping my fingers crossed.
Does anyone know about some code referring to 'lean?'
Thanks,
Alex
Rustan92
First let me say that this forum is great. So much infor and help! Especially from
Xplor4.
I have a 97 Pathfinder with 98k. When the engine runs or after I park it, I smell coolant. I've had it to the dealer and had the clooling system flushed and there are no leaks. The temperature is normal, so I don't think its overheating. I had the timing belt replaced at 71k and the dealer told me the water pump was fine. Of course it could be on shaky ground now. I also had my Check Engine light come up and I took it to AutoZone and they could only come up with a Evap Cannister or sensor. It was cleared then came back and has since gone away.Problem gone????? Yeah right!!! Will there be problems with and ODBII inspection? How much is it to replace one or both of them and can I do it myself ?
Thanks
Tony
For future reference, the Pathfinder timing belt replacement interval is 105,000 miles. If you were led to believe it needed replacement earlier, you were misled by an unknowledgable mechanic. What's unfortunate is that, even though the water pump was fine, it's usually a good idea to replace it when the timing belt service is performed, since the labor to get to it is the same.
With regard to coolant odor, can you tell where the smell is coming from? One possibility is shown below. Open the hood and look at the area immediately below the throttle body. See pic:
The pink highlighted device controls the idle speed when the engine is cold. The device (I'm not sure of the name) contains a thermal wax that prevents the plunger from moving (maintaining a faster idle) until engine heat melts the wax. My truck at one time had a small leak from this device, but it eventually sealed itself up. :confuse: If you see wetness, corrosion, or evidence of a coolant leak below that device (blue highlighted area) that could be the problem. It usually doesn't leak enough to show up as drips on the ground ,but since the exhaust manifold is directly beneath it, any coolant that leaks from there will vaporize, hence, the smell.
Finally, the EVAP canister is located beneath the truck behind the left rear wheel well. Its function is to store gas fumes from the fuel tank until the engine is started, at which time a valve in the engine bay opens, venting the fumes into the intake to be burned. The canister and the valve attached to the canister (I replaced both) costs ~$170 (check www.aaanissanparts.com or nissanparts.cc for the best prices). The EVAP canister is relatively easy to replace: a screwdriver, pliers, and some sockets were all that were needed.
Note: if any of the hoses around the canister seem "crunchy" when you squeeze them, that's a bad sign. It means the carbon in the canister has broken down and been sucked through the EVAP lines. The fix is far more complicated, but is still doable if you have an air compressor and some time. :shades:
suggestions will be appreciated.
tuan
I just replaced my 2002 Pathfinder OEM 's horn. It locates right in front of the radiator at the approx 10-12 inches from the hood latch.
Tuan
Thanks
PROBLEM: there is an area underneath your vehicle, in the firewall where there should be a hole, hose, or pipe coming out. This allows the water off the AC to drain outside. It can become plugged (somehow) and the water has nowhere to drain. When you make sharp turns it spills out of wherever it is into the inside of the car.
SOLUTION: Find this drain and unclog it.
Hope this helps!
Hopefully it is something as simple as a clogged hose. I am just upset with the way the dealer who sold me the car kind of brushed it off. This is a ~$30,000 vehicle, brand new, and he made it out to be something trivial (granted, it isn't a blown transmission, but it is an annoyance)
Or it could just be a manufacturing defect - sealant gap on windshield or body.
It's the dealers resposibility to find and correct and the manufacturers resposibility to pay the dealer to do so.
The FINALLY gave me a loaner. I understand that they are trying to fix it, and that it really isn't their fault, But it was the lack of pleasant customer service on their end that is making this agrevating.
I really can't answer for the wheels of the LE, but the SE wheels are problematic for balancing. The re-designed for 99.5 used the same wheels up to 2001, and need an adapter plate to be mounted to most balance machines. Most tire dealers do not know of this- when I bought my first and second sets of tires you would have no idea how many places I tried.
Two options: The first being take your Pathy to the dealer for balancing- they should have the equipment- they are pricey at $15 a wheel. The second option is to find a tire dealer OR a car dealer that has a Hunter 9700 balance machine- it is also called a "RoadForce" machine. I found a Cadillac dealer in my are that had one and charged me $8.00 a wheel.
My shimmy was always over 40 MPH. DO NOT let a tire store tell you he can balance anything- without the adapter plate, or a Roadforce- it isn't balanced.
Chris
I really love this car, i can't believe this is happening to me.
Bought an '05 LE last week...tried to hook up my utility trailer, and after hours of checking and diagnosis, it appears that two of the trailer wiring nodes are not wired properly.
There are four nodes (green, yellow, brown and white)...green is right side brakes and turn signal, yellow is left side brakes and turn signal, brown is running lights and white is ground.
After hooking up my trailer, the side running lights worked, but nothing on the rear did. I used a circuit tester, and the brown wire was hot, but the green and yellow were dead. The brake lights and turn signals on my Pathfinder work properly, so I don't think it is a blown fuse.
Any ideas? Am I missing something? Thanks!
Thanks!
any thoughts
thanks
http://www.iequus.com/obd_def.asp
http://autorepair.about.com
thanks
I am pretty new to this forum. I am planning to buy 01 pathfinder, which is having 90K miles on it. Interior looks pretty clean and leather seats. Its an SE model. So my question is, is it a good deal to buy 01 pathfinder with 90K miles on it ? If yes what is the price range I can bargain for. [I checked in Edmunds.com TMV, its about $9K]. Its a private party. what all the problems I may hit down the line ?, I brought a 96 Accord in 2001 with 90K miles on it, it still runs like a champ, I almost put 150K miles on it.
Can I expect the same thing from Nissan pathfinder ?
Thanks in advance
Use your circuit tester on the wiring harness plug at the hitch without your trailer attached. If you get good signals there, then it's likely an issue with your trailer wiring. The rear lights on the trailer should lightup with the running lights. That is, the trailer taillight bulbs have 2 filaments- one for the taillamp/running lights and the other for brake/turn signal.
As far as the things you have already done, in terms of the fuel delivery have you considered problems with the injectors themselves?
Airflow can be an issue as well. Check air filters and mass airflow sensors. I must say though if the Air filter was bad enough to keep it from starting it would not accelerate very well at all. You would typically see symptoms of clogged air filters during acceleration long before they begin to effect idling and/or starting.
Hope this wasn't too much all at once. Your problem could have any number of causes. But it really doesn't sound like it will be a major problem, just difficult to isolate. :P
Thanks