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There are clips in the door panels that get loose
Solution: Have a tech silicone all the clips to stop the noise.
Let me know when your rattle is gone
The first thing you should do is remove the purge volume control valve and disassemble it to see if it's clogged. If it's not, then it's very likely that the electrical parts of the valve have failed, and it should be replaced. If it is clogged, then that means that your EVAP canister has disintegrated and its contents have been sucked through the EVAP lines. This is not a good situation, and unless you're handy with tools and have an air compressor, it can be a very costly to fix. Post back with your findings if you want more info about how to repair the EVAP system.
On the underside of the hood there should be a sticker that shows the vacuum line routing diagram. Look for the vacuum lines for the EVAP system. (The purge volume control valve controls the amount of vacuum, ie. "air volume" applied to the EVAP system to "purge" the EVAP canister of fuel vapor.) Hopefully the vacuum line attached to the intake manifold (circled in above pic) is the same on the '98, and you'll be able to follow the diagram well enough to locate the valve.
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The thief also took the ignition disconnect device. Dealership wants 800 to replace, is there a way to by pass. Everything electrical works except getting the starter to engage. The device I thought was standard, any help would be appreciated. Due to the body damage that occured while stolen, the above cost in addittion to the 978.00 paid for towing and storage,(recovered while out of town) has me searching for the most inexpensive alternative.
Any ideas?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
When accelerating there is a certain point (maybe 3k+ rpm around 20-25 mph) when there is a high buzzing sound from below the car (I think). It goes away when the rpms go down. Any ideas?
I recently had both of my converters replaced to pass CA emissions on my '97 3.3L. They were totally melted. They cost only about $180 a piece (wholesale; resale lic. req'd). Work with an independent auto repair facility to install the cats; the dealer won't use aftermarket parts.
Converters West
1669 Abram Ct
San Leandro, CA 94577
(510) 352-5030
If you knew the code, you could determine what sensor system has the problem, and potentially determine the cost of the sensor itself. This will help you decide whether the dealer is being fair with you.
How many miles are on your truck? The dealer will put a new one in if your truck is below 100K miles. Whatever you do, do NOT install a used manifold.
Depending on which side is cracked, the cost to put in a new one can be up to $400. The driver's side is much harder to do than the passenger side.
Thanks a bunch!! I picked up the car before they did anything. I'll call the dealer and ask for the diagnostic code.
Hmmm, tried to charge the battery w/ my charger..nothing...
No dash warning lights, no fan...yet, head lights and power windows work fine ! What problem do I have here ??
Is it a wiring harness issue that failed because of the NEW battery and was on the verge of going ( increased resistance )?? Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated..Thanks !
Note: For those in the market for TIRES...the Michelin LTX M/S are awesome...1st set lasted about 80K and great in snow ! -Eric
Obviously transmission but where?
electrical?
mechanical?
Where do I begin?
Also where should I start looking for a used Pathfinder transmission???
HELP!! :sick:
Read more about drivetrain binding in 4WD here.
Anyone out there know why i need to counter steer to the left when i hit the gas? It feels like a low tire or a body sway. It's weird! Yes the frame rails were welded and they seem solid enough. I checked the rear shocks and they are original so i disconnected the lower bolts and they check out ok. I did notice the right front shock seems weak. any ideas?
Thanks
You can search google for replacement bushings using these phrases:
"pathfinder poly bushings"
"pathfinder lower link bushings"
You are right on the money. It has a couple loose bushings on the right side lower arm. And thanks for the tip on locating new ones.
Thanks again.
speakers (due to cost of replacement) and used an amplifier adapter. It sounds great!
much better than the stock system.
I'm what you may call a newbie here. Just have a few questions. I just got my '05 SE a couple of weeks ago and, after the 2 day of driving it, my "Service Engine Soon" light comes on. I brought it back to the dealer ship, where they said they replace a valve part, and after that the warning light came off. After another couple of days of driving the warning light comes on again. Has any of you experiences this before?
Does anyone know what is causing this? I have a 95 EX with the power sunroof. Sometimes it sounds as though something may be loose up there in the area behind the sunroof panel. Could that have something to do with it? Is it possible to pull back the roof lining to inspect up there and put it back so it looks the same?
Thanks
Joe