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Comments
Pathfinder21
Thanks,
Codyjam
I've owned the Pathy since this summer ... other than HIGH gas prices, and a new fuel pump, she's been running well.
However, within the past few weeks, there's been a slight hesitation when going between 40 and 50 mph. The car is already in 4th gear/OD at this point, not sure why it's 'jumping.'
Any suggestions? The Pathy has about 82,000 miles on it right now; not sure when the last tranny flush happened ... not sure if that would help at all or not. Has this ever happened to anyone? I pray there's nothing wrong with the AT transmission.
Thank you in advance,
Alex
PS: One piece of good news, I did get 18mpg on a recent road trip ... yeah! :P
I feel the noise maybe be coming from the shockers. I have already taken it to the service center twice and they have not been able to fix it.
Please share your experience.
I plan to replace the factory system with Pioneer FH-P4200MP.(http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/product/detail/0,,2076_4043_15- 2869141,00.html)
Has anyone replaced there Clarion stereo with an after market one?
Were you able retain full use of the buttons on your steering wheel? If so, how was this done?
Was it difficult removing the factory unit?
Thanks,
bigD33
-Jeremy
When you put it in reverse with the brakes on the rear drops a little. It will rise when you put it in drive. Has to do with suspension geometry and the rear diff.
An exhaust leak either sounds like a hiss or can sometimes just sound like a loud exhaust note. I don't think there is any cheap way to fix. Sometimes the exhaust headers crack and must be replaced. Sometimes it's just a joint that has come loose. Repair requires removal of a lot of stuff (it's tight in there) so it isn't inexpensive.
An exhaust leak sounds like tapping or clicking that varies with engine speed, usually louder when the engine is cold. The cheapest way to fix it is to find the cause of the leak and replace the leaking parts yourself. Otherwise, have a shop look at it.
I plan to replace the factory system with Pioneer FH-P4200MP.(http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/product/detail/0,,2076_4043_15- - 2869141,00.html)
Has anyone replaced there Clarion stereo with an after market one?
Were you able to retain full use of the audio buttons located on your steering wheel? If so, how was this done?
Was it difficult removing the factory unit?
Thanks,
bigD33
Replying to: 05pathfinderse (Aug 15, 2005 9:13 am)
Had same annoying squeak. Have had Le model for almost 1 year. In shop 7 times just for this one squeak. I found my issue and let Nissan know.
About two inches in on either side of the top of the Rad is a 2 inch wide bracket holding it in place. These brackets each have 2, 1/4inch high ribs. One from each side is rubbing directly against a plastic rivet that is under the hood holding in place a long strip of rubber in turn holding some sponge material to insulate or protect the front underside of the hood from the body of the engine compartment, or RAD in this instance. I just placed 2 small sponges over the brackets on the Rad and the squeaking went away. 7 trips to Nissan dealer and they could not find it, even when they had for almost 1 week once.
Would only occur after about 20 minutes of driving, or after it warmed up. I assume this then caused the RAD to expand and raised the brackets holding it in place on the top and rubbed the underside of the hood where the plastic rivets were.
Hope this helps
The fuel will trigger the light. I use the 10% ethanol fuel all the time (92 octane from Mohawk and Husky in Canada). My light stays off most of the time (except that one fillup in Hinton last fall).
I'm scratching my head on this one now, any suggestions on where to go from here? :confuse:
I plugged in my OB2 reader and nothing came up except a P1058 which I've had for quite some time. The SES light has never came on which really puzzles me. Any help would be great, I am somewhat mechanically inclined and also hate going to the dealer, local dealer is a rip off.
If anyone has experienced this please advise :confuse:
Thanks in advance!
Have a qualified mechanic provide a professional diagnosis for you, or if you have the tools, perform a compression check on all cylinders. Doesn't have to be the dealer. However, if you still qualify for the powertrain warranty, this may be covered.
Have you kept up with regular oil changes? If not, be prepared for a rather expensive repair bill.
I have a 3.3L, but if the 3.5L is similar to the 3.3L, the process is probably similar:
1) loosen the nut on the front of the adjuster pulley. (Turn counter-clockwise.)
2) Find the adjuster bolt for the accessory drive belt you're removing. On the 3.3L, they are pretty easy to find near the top front of the engine in front of the timing chain/belt cover.
3) To loosen the belt, rotate the bolt in the appropriate direction: clockwise moves the pulley CLOSER to the bolt-head; counter-clockwise moves it FURTHER from the bolt-head.
I hope that helps.
In addition to the wiring for the head unit you will need one connector for steering ($60 @ crutchfield), and one connector for the factory amp ($40 @ crutchfield) (prices may be off a bit)
As far as ease of replacement I'm sure with a little time, patience and TLC you could pop the plastic off, and find the screws the hold the assembly in the dash.
I checked into this and decided to let my unit go until I have to replace it.
On the 02' models the climate control system is all digital readout. To get AC, just hit the Auto button...the care will automatically try to cool/heat the vehicle to the temp setting.
If you want to overide and just use manual fan settings then after you push auto just hit the fan switch up or down, and this will adjust the fan speed.
The controls take some getting used to due to the fact that sometimes 66 feels just right, other times you'll have meat falling off the bone and have to crank it down.
Also you may notice when accelerating with the heater on, you get blasted with extra hot air.
What was done to fix the sqeaks? I have the same problem with my 2005 Pathfinder.
Thanks.